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PhotograDhic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibiiographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvunt  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvert  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 

□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 

□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

□    Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Hi: 

□ 


□ 


n 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
ere  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


n 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relie  avec  d'autres  dor-iments 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  'eaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
rnais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


n 
n 


D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endomrnagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur6ec>  et/ou  peliicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d§tach§es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit^  in^gale  de  I'impression 


Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


SOX 


/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmed  h«r«  hat  b««n  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganaroslty  of: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archival  of  British  Columbia 


L'axamplaira  fllmi  fut  raprodult  grica  i  la 
g^niroalt*  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  art  tha  bast  quality 
posslbia  contldaring  tha  condition  and  laglblllty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  In  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spaclflcatlons. 


Original  coplas  In  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmed 
beginning  with  tha  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illuttratad  Impres- 
sion, or  the  beck  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  coplas  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printad  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, end  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Lea  Images  sulvantas  ont  At*  reprodultes  avac  la 
plus  grand  soln,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  de  I'exemplalra  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplalres  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  Imprimie  sont  fiimAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  emprelnte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
pl9t,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  emprelnte 
d'impresslon  ou  d'illustration  at  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
emprelnte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^  signifle  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ra:ios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  err!  s;op  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  difftrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  an  un  seul  clich*,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  I'angie  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'imagas  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

12  3 

4  5  6 


I 


p' 


(r 


Oen. 


I 


By  the  Same  Author. 


punting  in  the  (Jreat  Wegl 

("Rustlings  in  the  Rockies.") 


12  mo.     Cloth.     300  Pages.     Profusely  Illustrated,  75  cents. 


"The  Battle  of  the  Big  pole 


n 


AN    AUTHENTIC  HISTORY  OF 


Gen.  Gibbon's    Engagement  with  Nez  Perc^  Indians,  in    the  Big  Hole 
Valley.    Montana.   August  9,    1877. 


Richly   Illustrated.     1 2  mo.    Cloth, 


$1.00 


■■■■M 


Ckuisings  in  the  Cascades. 


A      N  A  U  |{  A  T  I  \  I-:     l»  K 


Travel,  I-xploraiion.  Amateur  Plioiojijrapliy, 
Iliimiii.i^-.  and   Fishing-, 


WITH     SIM:(  lAI,    <  IIAiTKI!>     ON 

rrrNTiNc;    T„r.:    .,uz/.lv    heau,    tub    .ukk.u.,),    elk.    antklopf, 

U.HKV    MOl-NTAIN    .i,)AT,   AND   DKEIJ ;   ALSO   ON   '1  KOrTIN(;    IN 

THE  ItnCKY  MOINTAINS;  ON  A  MONTANA  HorND  U'  : 

LIKE   AMONii    THE    COWHOYS,    ETC. 

By   G.    0.    SHIELDS, 

'  "<()yriSA"  ) 

AUTIIOH  <...-  ■■  HUSTMNr.S  ,X  THE  U.KKIES,"  "  H.NTINn  IN  THE  GREAT 
WEST,"     "THE   llATTLB   OF   THE   liKi    HOLE,"    ETC. 


chicago  and  new  york: 
Rand,  McNally  &  Company,  Publishers. 

1889. 


>u.o 


I 


CorvuitMri'.  !><>'!*.  iiv  Kwd,  MrXvi.i.v  it  Cm, 


1 

■I 


Til.-  nrtioli's  heroin  mi  Kile,  Ilrar.  iind  Antilniic  Hiiiittntr  aro  roprlntod  by  thi'  courtesy 
111  Messrs.  Il.ii|ier  ti  lirotlieis,  111  « Imne  .MiiKMzine  they  were  first  published;  and  those 
on  liulliilo  lluntinjr  luid  Tiouting  are  leprodueeil  Iruiu  "Oiitiiit;"  Maguzine,  in  which 
tlicy  (list  iippeiircd. 


•  r 


"  C'niiiM  live  Willi  iiir  ,iiii|   1,,.  iiiv  love. 
And  '\f  will  all  llic  pi  asiiivs  prove 
Tiiiit  liilN  .iiiil  vall('\N.  (lilies  and  fields. 
M'ood^  or  sleepy  liioiiiilaiiis,    yield  " 


Mil)  hire. 


■Earth  1ms  hiiill  the  umit  watcli-toweis  of  the  niouiitar- 
and  they  lift  their  heids  f,,,-  „p  i„„.  ,,,(.  skv.  and  ira/e  e^er  u> 
ward  and  around  to  .see  if  the  Judge  .d'  the   World  .■oni.s  not."  ' 

—Lontjfcliou; 


4  4  ♦>  •'  ^ 


».'»^HF 


wfmmmmmm 


"V. 


PREFACE. 


And  now.  how  can  I  siiitablv  luxAoix'v/A'  for  liavinr-- 
iiillicl.nl  allot hrr  hook  on  the  icadin.u-  puljlic^  I 
would  not  artenipr  it  l)iir  tluir  it  is  the  custom  among 
authors.  And,  come  to  think  of  it,  T  guess  I  won't 
attempt  it  anyway.  I  will  merely  say,  ])y  way  of 
excuse,  that  my  I'ormer  liteiaiy  efforts,  espfcially 
my  "Rustlings  in  the  Kocki<>s.'"  have  brought  me 
in  sundry  dollars,  iu  good  and  lawful  money,  which 
I  have  found  very  useful  things  to  have  :d)out  the 
house.  If  this  volume  shnll  uieet  with  an  equally 
kind  reception  at  the  hands  of  l)o,,k  huyers,  I  shall 
feel  tliat,  after  all.  I  am  not  to  Maine  for  having 
written  it. 


TllK  AI'TIIOK. 


Cill(A<.o,  Mai;(  IF.    Kss<). 


(7) 


rjssm 


CONTENTS. 


ClIAPTEPv  I. 


The  Benefits,  Mental  and  Pliysical,  of  Mountain  flimhinir— A 
Never-failing  Means  of  Obtaining  Soiuul  Sleep  and  a  Good 
Appetite— The  Work  to  be  in  Proportion  to  the  Strengtli  of 
the  Climber— People  Wiio  Would  Like  to  See,  but  are  Too 
Lazy  to  Climb— How  the  Photouraph  (  nmera  ^Fay  Eiichancc 
the  Pleasures  ami  Benefits  of  Mounta'n  Cllmbinir— Valuable 
Souvenirs  of  Each  Ascent— How  "These  Thinixsare  Done  in 
Europe"— An  Effcciivc  Care  for  Egotism. 

CHAPTER  TI. 

Tlie  Cascade  Mountains  Compared  with  tlie  Rockies— Char:ieter- 
isticsand  Landmarks  of  the  Former— Tiie  Proper  Season  for 
Cruising  in  the  Cascades— Grand  Scenery  oftiic  Columbia- 
Viewing  Blount  Tacoma  from  the  City  of  Tacoma— Men  Wlio 
Have  Ascended  this  Mysterious  Peak— Indian  Legends  Con- 
cerning the  :Mountain— Evil  Spirits,  Wiio  Dwell  in  Yawning 
r'averns— The  View  from  the  Mountain— Crater  Lakr  and 
tlie  Glaciers— Xine  Water-falls  in  Sight  from  One  Point. 


CHAPTER  in. 

The  City  of  Seattle— A  Booming  Western  Town— Lumbering 
and  Salmon  Canning— Extensive  Hop  Ranches- Rich  Coal 
and  Iron  Mines— Timber  Resources  of  Puget  Sound— Giant 
Firs  and  Cedars- A  Hollow  Tree  for  a  House- Big  Timber 
Shipped  to  Enghuul- A  Million  Feet  of  Lumber  from  an  Acre 

of  LantI— Novel  Method  of  Loggip.g— No  Snow  in  Theirs 

A  World's  Supply  of  Timber  for  a  Thousand  Years. 


.u 


lo 


rOX  TEXTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Length,  Breadth,  and  Depth  of  Pugct  Sound— Natural  Ue- 
sources  of  the  Surrounding  C'otuitry — Flora  and  Fauna  of  the 
Region — Great  Variety  of  Game  Birds  and  Animals — Large 
Variety  of  Game  and  Food  Fishes — A  Paradise  for  Sports- 
man or  Naturalist — A  Sail  Through  the  Sound — Grand 
Mountains  in  Every  Direction — The  Home  of  the  Elk,  Bear, 
Deer,  and  Salmon — Sea  Gulls  as  Fellow  Passengers — Photo- 
graphed on  the  Wing — Wild  Cattle  on  Whidby  Island- 
Deception  Pass;  its  Fierce  Current  and  Wierd  Surroundings 
—Victoria,  B.  C. — A  Quaint  Old,  English-looking  Town. 


43 


CHAPTEI?  V. 

Through  English  Bay— Water  Fowls  that  Seem  Never  to  Have 
Been  Hunted— Rifle  Practice  that  was  Soon  Interrupted- 
Peculiarities  of  Burrard  Inlet— Vancouver  and  Port  Moody 
— A  Stage  Ride  to  Westminster — A  Stranger  in  a  Strange 
Land — Hunting  for  a  Guide — "  Douglass  Bill  "  P"'ound  and 
Employed — An  Indian  Funeral  Delays  the  Expedition. 


53 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Voyage  uptheFrazier — Delicious  Peaches  Growing  in  Sight 
of  Glaciers — The  Detective  Camera  Again  to  the  Front — 
Good  Views  from  the  Moving  Ste;imer — A  Night  in  an 
Indian  Hut — The  Sleeping  Bag  a  Refuge  from  Vermin— The 
Indian  as  a  Stamping  Ground  for  Insects — He  Heeds  Not 
Their   Ravages. 


.'59 


CHAPTER  VII. 

A  Breakfast  witli  the  Bachelor — Up  Harrison  River  in.  a  Canoe 
— De.ad  Salmon  Everywhere — Their  Stench  Nauseating — The 
Water  Poisoned  with  Carrion — A  Good  Goose  Spoiled  with 
an  Express  Bullet — Lively  Salmon  on  the  Falls — Strange  In- 
stinct of  this  Noble  Fish — Life  Sacriticcd  in  the  Effort  to 
Reach  its  Spawning  Grounds — Ranchmen  Fishing  with  Pitch- 
forks, and  Indians  with  Sharp  Sticks — Salmon  Fed  to 
Hogs,  and  Used  as  F(  .tilizers;  the  Prey  of  Bears,  Cougars, 
Wild  Cat?,  Lynxes,   Minks,   ^Martins,  Hawks,  and  Eagles. 


06 


COXIllN  IS. 


11 


ClIAPTKIJ  VIII 

Tlic  KivcM  Above  lilt"  Rapids— A  L;,U,.  WitMn  Ba  altic  "Wiills— 
Many  Heautifiil  WatcTfalls— Moint  Don-las  and  ilsGlaci.Ts 
— A  Tradini:  l>ost  of  tlie  lludx.n  Bay  Fnr  Company— Tiio 
ilot  Sprin-s  an  Ancient  Indian  iSanilaiinni— Anxiouslv 
Waiting  lor  "Dou-iass  JMI— Novel  .Aletlmd  of  I'hoK)- 
grapliiui;  IJig  Trees 


niAITKK  IX. 

An  Early  Mornin--  Ciimh-A  Thousand  Feet  Above  tlie  I.ake 
Fresh  Drer  Signs  iu  Siglit  of  the  Hotel— Three  Indians  IJri 
in  Three  Deer— "Don-lass  Bill  •'  Proves  as  P,i-  a  Mar 
nilier  Infliuns— Heading  off  a  Flock  of  Canvas  IJack.s- 
iJoodly  !!ag  of  tiiese  Toothsome  Bin^— A  Si\va.-ii  lint- 
K'evoilin- Picture  of  Dirt,  Fiitii,  Nakedness,  and  Decay 
Fish— Another  (iuide  Employed— l{e,idy  on  Sh^rt  Notice 
UIV  for  the  .Mountain^. 


ng 
as 

-A 
A 

ed 


t'i 


H3 


CIIAPTFK  \. 

(liaracteristics    ,,f    the    Flathead  Indian — Canoeisis  and   P 


ers  by  Birlii  and  Education— A  Skillful  Canoe  Builder 
Freighlin-'  Caiioes— Fi  hing  Canoes— Travel  in  l;-  Canoes 
Two  Cords  of  Wood  for  a  Cargo,  and  Four  Tons  of  M 
chandise  for  Another— Dress  of  the  Coast  Indians. 


leR- 


er- 


sfj 


CHAPTEIJ  XI. 

Climbing  the  Mountain  in  a  Hainstorni— Pe.in's  Dirty  Bl  mkels-- 
Ilis  Carefid  Treatment  of  His  Old  .Muskel— A  Novel  Char-e 
for  Big  Game— The  Chatter  of  the  Pine  Squirrel— A  Shot 
Through  the  Brush— N'enison  for  Supper— A.  Lame  Con- 
veivation:  English  on  the  One  Side,  Chinook  on  the  Other— 
The  Winchester  Exjiress  SiagLivrs  the  Natives- Pecidiariiies 
of  the  Columl)ia  Black  Tail  Deer. 


•j: 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Chinook  Jargon;  an  Odd  Conglomeration  of  Words:  the 
Court  Eauii-Uiige  of  the  Northwest;  ,•,  Specinn'ii  Conversa- 
tion—A Camp  on  the  Moun-ain  Side--How  the  Indian  Tried 


u 


CONIKNI'S. 


lo    Sleep    Warm — 'I'lie    IiniKirt.'iiiee   ol    fi  (iood   Hed   \\  Ik  n 
Caiupiiiii — Peaii  is  liken  III — His  Fall  Down  a  .Mini'.iaiii  — 
Unable  to   uo  Further,  We  Turn  Baek — Hitter  Disappdiiil 
inent lO'^ 


C'lIAFTKlf  XIII. 

The  Return  to  the  Village — TwoXew  Guides  Employed — OtT  for 
the  Mountains  Onee  Mon — The  Tramp  up  Ski-ikdiul'Creek 
Throuiiii  Jungles,  (lulelies.  and  Canons — .\nd  Still  it  Hains 
— Ravages  of  Forest  Fires — A  lied  ol'  ^lounlain  Feathers — 
Description  of  a  Sleeping  Bag;  an  Indisponsa')le  Lux- 
ury in  Camp  Life:  an  Indian  Opinion  of  It.  .         ,  107 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Meditations  l)y  a  Camp  Fire — Suspicions  as  to  the  Honesty  of 
My  Guides;  at  Their  Mercy  in  Case  of  Stealthy  Attack — A 
Frightful  Fall — Broken  Bones  and  Iiiten-e  SulTeriiig — A 
Painful  and  Tedious  Jtmrney  Home — A  Painful  Suruiea! 
Operation — A  Ilapiiy  Denouement ll'.l 


CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Beauties  of  Ski-ik  kul  Creek;  a  Raging  Mountain  Torrent; 
Rapids  and  Waterfalls  Everywhere;  Pietui-es(|Ue  Tribu- 
taries— Above  the  Tree  Tops — The  Pleasure  of  (^uenchini: 
Thirst — A  Novel  Spear — A  Fifteen-Pound  Salmon  for  Suji- 
]H'v — The  Indians'  Midnight  Lunch — A  Grand  Camji  Fire  — 
At  Peace  with  All  3Ien 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Seymour  Advis(s a  L;iteStart  forGoat  Hunting;  biu  Ilis  Coiuicil 
is  Disregarded — We  Start  at  Sunrise — AQueerCr.aft — Navi 
patnig  Ski-ikdvul  Lake — A  "  Straight-up  "  Shot  at  a  (Joat  — 
Both  Horns  Broken  OlT  in  the  Fall— More  Rain  and  Less 
Fun — A  Doe  and  Kid — Successful  Trout  Fisinng — Peculiar- 
ities of  the  Skowlitz  Tongue;  Grunts,  Groans  and  Whistles 
— John  has  Traveled — Seymour's  Pri'tended  Ignorance  of 
Euiihsh.  . \'2~) 


(ON  IK  NTS. 


i;? 


CIIAPTKIJ  XVII. 

En  Rimlctotlu' Villa-i' Airaiu— A  Walcr  Snaked  (  ountry  — •(  »!i, 
Wliat  a  Fall  was  Tli(iv,.My  CoiuitryiiR-ii!"— Walkin-oii  Slip- 
IHiy  Lous— .More  Kaiii— Wet  Imiiaiis— "  Senio  lie  Spile  dc 
Grouse"— A  Fni.iral  I^rcaklast-Hini,  Li\  iii- ai  Il,,iue-A 
I5ear  Iledida  Fisjuii-  (io;  l.ni  H,.  was  C'aii.iilit  Instead  of 
the  Fish,  and  His  Skin  is  Bartered  to  tlie  rnwa-liefl 
biwaslies. 


!;)3 


CJIAPTEH  XVIII. 

John  and  His  Family  "At  Hoine— An  Interest  in.i.'  Picture  of 
Domestic  Economy— iJille  Practice  on  Gulls  and  Grebes- 
Puzzled  Natives—"  Pliwat  Kind  of  Uurds  is  TliemV  —  A  day 
on  tiie  Columbia— The  Pallisades  from  a  Steamei— Piioto- 
grai)liiug   Bad  Euuds  from  u  Muvin.-i-  Train.  .         M-.> 

CIIAPTEIJ  XIX. 

Deer  Iluntinir  at  Spokane  Falls— Ruin  ^Vrouiiiit  by  an  Over- 
loaded Shotgun:  A  Tattered  Vest  and  a  Wrecked  Watch- 
Billy's  Bear  Story— The  Poorest  Hunter  Makes  tlic  Bigiri  st 
Score— A  Claw  iu  Evidence— A    Distrusted  Party.         .         IK; 


CHAPTER  XX. 

A  Fusiladc  on  the  MiUl'  Deer— Two  Do  s  as  the  Result— A  C.ood 
Shot  Spoiled— View  tromtheTopof  Blue  Grouse  .Mountain- 
A(;rand  Panorama;  Lakes,  Mountains,  Prairies  and  Forests 
—.lohnstons  Stoy— Rounding  Ui>  Wild  Hogs— A  Trick  on 
theDutehman— A  Bucking  Muleand  a  Balky  Cayuse— Falls 
of  the  Spokane  River.  ...... 


ir),3 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Hunting  the  Grizzly  Bear— Habitat  and  Characteristics— A  Ca-np 
Keltic  as  a  Weapon  of  Defense— To  the  Rescue  with  a  Win- 
chester—Rest  Localities  for  Hunting  the  Grizzly— Baiting 
and  Still-Hunting— A  Surprise  Party  in  the  Trail— Two  Bull-- 
eyesand  a  .M:.-;s— Fresh  Meat  and  Revelry  in  Camp.         .         1G4 


14 


CONTKNTS. 


CIIAPTKK  XXII. 

Elk  Ilnntinir  in  the  Rocky  Moun!;iiii« — ("liaractcristics  of  the 
Klk— llisMoilc  of  Tnivi.l— A  Stampede  in  a  Thicket— The 
Whist'eof  the  Elk,  the  Hunter's  Sweetest  Music— Measure- 
ments of  a  Pair  of  Antlers — Saved  by  Following  an  P^lk 
Trail— The  Work  of  Exterminators— The  Elk  Doomed.      . 


181 


CHAPTER  XXHI. 

Antelope  Hunting  in  Montana — A  Red  Letter  Day  on  Fiat  Wil- 
low— Initiating  a  Pilgrim — Sample  Shots — Flagging  and 
Fanning — Catching  Wounded  Antelopes  on  Horseback — 
Four  Mule-Loads  of  3Ieat li)-l 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Buffalo  Hunting  on  the  Texas  Plains— A  "  Bull  Train  "  Loaded 
with  Skins — A  Sensation  in  Fort  Worth — En  Route  to  the 
Range — Red  River  Frank's  ^lission — A  Stand  on  the  Herd — 
Deluged  with  Buffalo  Blood — A  Wild  Run  l)y  Iiulians — 
Tossed  into  the  Air  and  Trampled  into  the  Earth.        .        213 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Hunting  the  Rocky  ^Mountain  Goat — Technical  Description  of 
the  Animal— Its  Limited  Range — Dangers  Incurred  in  Hunt- 
ing It — An  Army  Ollicer's  Experience — A  Perihjus  Shot — A 
Long  and  Dangerous  Pursuit — Successful  at  Last — Carry- 
ing tlie  Trophies  to  Camp — Wading  up  Lost  Horse  Creek — 
Xumerous  Baths  in  Icy  Water — An  Indian's  Fatal  Fall — 
Horses  Stampeded  by  a  Bear — Seven  Days  on  Foot  and 
Alone — Home  at  Last 23(5 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Trouting  in  the  Mountains — Gameness  of  the  Mountain  Trout — 
A  Red  Letter  Day  on  the  Bitter  Root— Frontier  Tackle  and 
Orthodox  Bait — How  a  Private  Soldier  Gets  to  the  Front  as 
an  Augler — A  Coot  Interrupts  the  Sport,  and  a  Rock  Inter- 
rupts the  Coot— Colonel  Gibson  takes  a  Nine-Pounder — A 
Native  Fly  Fisherman — Grand  Sport  on  Big  Spring  Creek — 
How  Captain  Hathaway  does  the  Honors — Where  Grand 
Sport  may  be  Found 257 


('(»N  IKNTS.  15 

(ilAI'lEK  XXVll. 

Di'cr  IIuiitiiiL;'  in  Xurtlicni  Wi-cunsiii— On  tlic  IJiUiiio  ;il  Diiy- 
liglit— 'I'lio  Woods  Full  of  Game— Mis.sing  a  Stiindlni; 
"  IJioadside"  at  Tlilrly  Yards— So veriil  Easy  Shots  in  Hapid 
Succossioii ;  the  only  Fruiis  Shame  and  Ciiai^rni— Xervons- 
ness  and  Exeilemenl  Finally  Give  Way  to  Coolness  and 
Deliberation— A  IJig  Bnek  at  Long  Uange— A  Steady  Aim 
ami  a  Unptured  Throat— A  IJIind  Unn  Tiirough  Brush  and 
Fallen  Trees— Down  at  La^l— A  Xohle  Specimen— His 
Head  as  a  Tr. ipliy.  .......  :.'S0 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

AmoP!,^  the  Pines— A  Picture  of  Autumnal  Loveliness—  Cor- 
di  il  Welcome  to  a  Logging-  Camp— A  Successful  Shot— The 
Music  of  the  Dinni  r  Horn— A  Throal  Cut  and  a  Leg  Broken 
—A  Stump  for  a  Watch  Tower— The  Raven  Homeward 
Hound— A  Suspicious  P,;ick— A  .Alysterious  Presence— Dead 
Beside   His   .AIat( — T!irce   Shots  and  Three  Deer.         .  -jss 


CHAPTEP.  XXIX. 

A  Typical  Woodsman— ^Model  Home  in  the  Great  Pine  Forest 
—A  Lifetime  in  the  Wilderness— A  Deer  in  a  Natural  Trap 
— Disai^pointnientand  Despondency-"  What,  You  Killed  a 
Buck:"— Sunrise  in  tlie  Woods— An  Unexpected  Shot— A 
Free  Circus  and  a  Small  Auilience— A  Buck  as  a  Buck'  r— 
More  Veni-on ^'M 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Cowl)oy  Life— Tlie  Boys  that  Become  Good  R-.mgo  Riders- 
Peculiar  Tastes  and  Talents  Reciuired  for  the  RaiKdi— Wages 
Paid  to  Cowboy.s— Al)use  and  .Misrepresentation  to  which 
They  areSuhjected— Tlie  "Flesh  Kid/'and  ihei.  >ng-Haircd 
"  Grea-^er"— The  Stranger  Always  Welcome  at  the  Ranch  — 
A  Dude  Insured— A  Plaid  Ulster,  a  Green  Uinl)rella,  and  a 
Cranky  Disposition— :\Iaking  u  Train  Crew  Dance— An 
Uncomplimentary  Concert  -No  Sneak  Thieves  on  the  Plains 
—Leather  Breeclies,  Big  Spurs,  and  a  Six  Shooter  in  a  Sleep- 
ing Car— Fear  Gives  Way  to  Admiration— The  Slanu'  of  the 


16 


CONTKNTS. 


I{anij:c— Tlif  "  Hiickcr,"im(ltho  "  Ilu.sttT"— The  Good  Cow- 
Horse— Hopinn-  for  Trizes— Stiiikipg  ji  Bear  with  a  Lariat- 
A  Good  Sehool  for  IJoys— Coiniiuiiiioii  uilli  Nature  .Muk  s 
Honest  Men 304 


/.. 


CIIAPTEU  XXXI. 

icntana  Koundup— Ranges  and  Ranches  on  Powder  Hiver; 
Once  the  Home  of  tlie  Bulfalo,  rhe  Klk,  llic  Anlelopc;  now 
>lie  Home  of  tlie  Texas  8tecr  and  the  Cowljoy— The  Gresit 
IN  Mils  in  Spring  Attire— A  (Jatherin-  <-f  Kustlcrs— "  Chuck 
Outfits"  to  the  Front— Early  Risers- -Taming  an  "  Alecky  " 
Sleer— A  Ked-Hot  Device— Branding  and  Slitting- Tlic  linn 
nil  tlie  Mess  Wagon— "Cutting  Out"  and  "Throwing 
Over  ■— A  Cruel  Process.         .  '^  ooi 


1  Cow. 
irifit  — 
.Milk  s 


;]04 


IJivcr; 
;  now 
GrcHt 
''huck 
rky  " 
('  Run 
JM'ing 


CRUISINGS  TN  THE  CASCADES. 


CHAPTER  I, 

"  Mountains  arc  Ihv  l)ogiunin^•  ami  the  end  of  all  natural  scenery." 

—  HrsKi.N. 


irramow 


pii  MiiyoiK^  wlio  lias  the  coui'tiue,  the 
luii'diluKnl,  niul  the  physical  stiviigth 
to  endiuvtlie  exeicis*',  there  is  no  form 
of  lecreatiou  or  aimiscment  known  lo 
mankind  that  can  yield  such  oiand 
lesnlts  as  mountain  climhino'.  I  mean 
I'lom  a  mental  as  well  as  irom  a  phys- 
ic al  standpoint ;  and,  in  fact,  it  is  the 
mind  that  receives  the  greater  l)en('lit.  The 
|V 'exertion  of  t  muscuhir  forces  in  climl)ing  a 
\  liigh  mounttun  is  necessai'ily  severe;  in  ftict,  it  is 
jmore  than  most  persons  unused  to  it  can  readily 
(emlure  ;  and  wereit  not  for  the  inspiration  which 
the  mind  derives  fi'om  the  exi)erience  when  the 
ascent  is  made  it  would  he  l)etter  that  the  sid)ject 
.should  essay  some  milder  form  of  exercise.  But 
if  (me"s  strength  })e  sutiicient  to  endui-e  the  l:U)or 
of  siscending  a  grand  mountain  i)eak,  that  extends 
to  or  al)ove  tiinber  line,  to  the  regions  of  peri)etual 
snow  and  ice,  oi- even  to  a  height  that  gives  a  general 
vie\v  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  comi)ensation 


(1 


.) 


IS 


ri;iI--IN'<i^   F\    lili:  (  A>r.\i)K>; 


AM)    nlllKi;    I|I\II\(;    AUVKNTIKKS. 


10 


m 


MM 


must  |)»>  jiiii|il'  if  out'  li;i\t'  an  <•>♦'  I'm  tin-  iM-.-nitics 
of  JiMfiiri',  (iijiiiy  :iit|>rt'('iiiti(»ii  (•!"  the  giiindriir  nl"  the 
( 'iTii tor's  uTcatrst  \v(U'l\s. 

\':iiii,  si'ir  l(t\  iiiu' Mi:iii  is  wont  i(»  (-(.iisid*'!' Iiiiiis«'lt' 
t  ln' iioltlt'si  \\(»ik  of  (hkI.  I»iit  Iff  liiin  ,ii(>  In  t  lit' h'p  (if 
one  (»r  ihfst'  lofty  iiioiiiit.'iiiis,  smroiiiKlcd  l»y  oiIkt 

toWciiun'  |»r;iks,  iilid  if  lie  l)i'  ii  silIU'  milll  il«'  will  H<K»U 
lie  coiiviiic.Ml  I  lint  lijs  pincciii  tlif  scmIc  of  cii'ati'jii  is 
fill"  from  llicl(»|>.  Lei  liim  stiiiid.  f(tr iiist:mc»',  on  the 
siimiiiH  of  Mount  Hood,  Mount  'r;icom;i,  or  Mouiil  15:1- 
Ivt-r,  tliousMiids  of  feet  jil)ovt'  mII  surrouiidiiiu"  jm-mRs, 
hills,  and  \;dl»'ys,  w  litMv  lie  may  ua/.i'  into  space  Imn- 
dr«'(ls  of  miles  in  t'Ncry  direction,  with  naiiuht  to  (»!)- 
struct  iiis  view,  iin-('  to  face  with  his  Creator,  and 
if  h«'  iiave  aun'litof  the  love  of  nature  in  hissoul.  or(»f 
appreciation  of  the  suhlime  in  his  mental  composi- 
tion, he  will  he  inoNt'd  to  exclaim  with  the  Apostle, 
'•  What  is  man  that  Thou  art  mindful  of  iiiin.  orllu' 
son  <»f  man  tiiat  Thou  visitest  liim  '."  lie  will  feel 
liis  littleness,  his  iiisi<;inticance,  his  utter  lack  (»f  im- 
2)orlance,  more  forcibly  j)erhapsiha!i  ever  before.  It 
seems  almost  incredible  that  there  should  be  men  in 
the  world  who  could  care  so  little  for  the  uraiKh'st, 
the  sid)limest  sights  their  nativo  land  all'ords,  as  to 
be  unwilling-  to  perform  the  laboi' necessary  to  see 
them  to  the  best  t)ossible advantage  ;  andyet  it  is  so, 
for  1  have  J'reiiuentlv  heard  them  sav  : 

"  I  should  like  verv  mucii  to  see  these  uiand 
siii'hts  you  (h'scribe.  l)ut  T never  could  allord  to  climb 
those  high  mountains  J'or  that  pleasure  :  it  is  too 
hard  work  for  me." 

And,  after  all,  the  benelits  to  l>e  derived  from 
mountain  climbing  aje  not  wholly  of  an  intellectual 


2n 


cunsiNus  i.\  t;ii:  (  ascadks 


*"■  ''F&i 


'l/':'  i^s^ri  1... ;, yii, •;,!,- 


.\\i>  niiii.i;  iiiNiiNi;  Ai>v  i:.\  II  i;'---. 


21 


<'li;ir:ictfi' ;  tin-  physical  sysii'in  may  I>t'  lifiielitcd  hy 
il   ii^  »^fl!.      Il   is  a   kind    dl"   rxd'cisc  tliat   in  liiiii 
lniii-s  iiiKt   use  aliiiosi  cxfiy  miisclc  in    ilic  l-.ddy, 
fliosf    of    ill.'   Ii'i^s    liciiin"  of  ('((iiisp  taxt'fl   III  >st   se- 
verely, l)iit  those  (if  ihehackdo  their  riill  shai.'  of 
the  work,  while  I  he  arms  are  railed  into  action  almost 
con>taiill_\ .  as  tlie  ('Jimher  urasjts  hushes  or  rocks  lt\' 
which  lo  aid  liimseir  In   th,.  ascent.     Tiie  Junius  ex- 
pand and  contraci    like  helious  as  t  hey  inhale  and 
exhale  the  larilied  almosphere,  and   the  lieaii  l)eats 
like  a  trip  hammer  as  ir  i)nmps  the  invigorated  blood 
thioiiuh  th<'  system.     Tiie  liver  is  shaken  loose  I'lom 
the  lihs  to  which  it  Jias  [)erchaii('e  nrown  fast,  and 
the  stomach  is  aroused  to  siicji  a  state  of  activity  as 
it  has  i»rol)al)ly  not  experienced  for  years.      I.et  aiiv 
111:111.  especially  one   of   sedentary    lial>its.   climl)   a 
mountain  .'(.iiod  hM-t  liidi.  on  a  hri.uht.  i.leasant  day, 
when 

"  Xiulil's  caiKllcs  arc  liiinit  out  and  ji,'cu:;i'.  il  iv 
Stands  tiptoe  011  llic  uiiNly  lUdUiiiain  luiw," 

inhere  let  jiim  I»reathe  the  rare.  ]>iire  atinosj»liere, 
l're>ii  iVom  the  ])ortalsor  Jieaven.  and  my  word  I'or 
if  lie  will  have  a  heiter  a[»}»etit<>.  will  eat  heartier, 
sleej)  soander.  and  awake  next  morniiiu'  leelino'  more 
rel'resiied  than  since  ;he  days  of  Ids  boyhood. 

Althoii-ii  the  labor  be  severe  it  can  and  should  b<; 
inndiiiated  to  the  streiiutli  and  capabilities  of  the 
pfMson  llnde|•t:d^in^•  the  task.  \o  one  should  climb 
faster  than  is  comiiatible  with  his  sireniith.  ^nid 
halts  should  beniadee\ery  live  or  ten  minutes,  if 
need  be.  to  allow  the  sy-tein  ample  rest,  in  this 
manner  a  vast  amount  of  work  may  be  accomplished 


90 


ciirrsFxcs  ix  tiik  <as(ai)i:s 


l\ 


in  a  (lay,  wm  l)y  one   ulio   has   liad  no  picvioiis 
experience  in  cJinihinu'. 

Tlie   henetits  and  jtleasiires  of  inonntaiii  ('lini))in,n' 
are   mucli    better    nnderstood   and  appreciated    in 


OS  t;'k  coi.rMniA. 

Europe  than  in  tliis  country.  Nearly  every  city  of 
England,  France,  Si)ain,  (lerniany.  and  other  Euro- 
pean countries  lias  an  Alpine,  Pyrenese,  or  Hima- 
layan c!ul).     The  members  of  these  clubs  sjx'ud  tlicii- 


AND  oriiKii  iii'Mim;  advkn  rii:i:s. 


•>:3 


simiiiK'i'  oiitiiiiis  ill  scaliiii;'  llic  ^i:rt';it  |)(';iks  of  llie 
iiioitnliiiMS  iil'tci-  wiiicli  tilt'  societies  ;in'  iiaiiied,  or 
other  fa ii.Li'es,  and  tlie  winter  eveiiiiius  in  ivi'oiiiitiiiii' 
to  eaeli  otliertlieii' experiences;  and  many  a  man,  by 
his  association  witii  the  clul)s  and  by  iiKbil.ueiice  in 
this  inviiio rating'  i)astiine  develoi)s  iroin  a  (h'licate 
yoiitii  into  a  niuscuhir.  sturdy,  athh'tic  man  in  a 
i'ew  years. 

Th*'  i)ossibl('vabieol'  mountain  climb'iiu'asa  reci'ea- 
tion  and  as  a  means  of  uainiiiii'  ]\nowled,u;e,  lias  been 
.ureatly  enhancecl,  ol"  late  years,  l)y  the  inti'ocbic- 
tion  ol'  tJK'  (hy-i)late  syste!::  in  jiiiotography.  and 
since  rlie  small,  liulit.  coni])act  camei'as  have  l)eeu 
constructed,  which  may  b»'  easily  and  conveniently 
carried  wherever  a  man  can  ]>ack  his  blankets 
and  a  day's  supply  of  l'oo<l.  With  on*'  of  these 
instruments  line  views  can  betaken  of  all  interesting' 
objects  and  bits  of  scciK'iy  on  the  mountain,  and  of 
the  surrounding' country.  The  views  are  interesting' 
and  instructive  to  fiieiids  and  to  the  jaiblic  in  gen- 
<'ra!.  and  as  souveiiiis  are  invaluable  to  the  author. 
And  from  the  iicoativcs  thus  secured  lantt'i'ii  slides 
may  be  made,  and  from  these,  by  the  aid  of  the 
(•alciiim  liu'ht.  jdctures  ])rojected  on  a  scrt'cii  that 
can  only  be  cKctdled  in  their  beauty  and  attractive- 
ness ])v  nature  hersell'. 


i 


'  t 
I ' 


iii 


i'  ! 


I' 
'I- 

m 


t 


'^H 


CIIAPTKll  11. 

Mil  siicc'cdiimnutimm.  I'oi' years  past, 

lias  louiid  iiic  ill  soiiieraiiuv  of  iiioiiiu- 

ains,      ('aiiii»iii,u',      Jmiitiiiu',      lisliiiin, 

clinihiiiu',     and    takinu'     views.      Thr 

ix'iidits    I    have   dnivcd    from    tli.'sc 

?  expcdiiioiiN    ill    the    way   of    licaltli, 

fi-en.utii,    and   vi-or,    aiv    incalculahl.s 

the  l)leasui'es    iuexpressihie.      My  hist 

out iiiu'  was  in  tlie  Cascade  Kano-e,  in  o'leo-or, 

^fjand    AVasliinut,,,!   Territory,    where   I   si)eiit 

k^a  month  in  tliese  deh'olitfii,  occnparions.  and  it 

IS  witli  a  view  of  eii('oura--in,i'-  and  proniotinu-  a  love 

iov  tliese  modes  of   recreation  that  thi.s  record   is 

Avritten. 

".I  live  not  in  myself,  but  I  l)ecome 

Tort  ion  of  timt  tiround  me;  iuul  (o  me 
High  mountains  are  a  feeling,  but  the  hum 
Of  liuman  cities  torture" 

Tlie  Cascade  Rtiiiov  of  mountains  extends  from 
Southern  Oregon  rhroiiwli  Washinuton  Territory 
awaytothenortliwardin  Britisli  Coiinnhia.  In  vvidii/ 
liom  east  t(^  west,  it  vari.'s  from  fifty  to  one  liiindred 
miles.  It  is  the  most  densely-ri inhered  ranuv  on  tlm 
continent,  ami  yet  is  one  of  the  hioh,.sr  t.nd  most  rno- 
g«'d.  It  m;iy  not  possess  so  many  ragged,  shapeless 
cra-s  anddai'k  canons  as  the  Hocky  Han-e,  and  y<-t 
everyone  who  lias  ever  traveised  Ixlth  acc-ords  to  the 

(JO) 


'M 


i 

It 


'% 


(26) 


AM)  ()iiii:i:  III  .\ri\(.  ai>\  i:n  rriiKs. 


27 


Cnsradt'sthtMlisiiiK'tioii  orixMiiu' lh<'<M]ii;il.  in  jtictiii'- 
t'S(|ueii('ss  iiud  ,iii';iii(l»'ur.  (>r  the  H(»('l\i<'s,  or,  in  fact, 
of  liny  other  laiiiic  in  the  conntiy.  As  conlintMital 
landmarks,  Mounts  l*itr.  I'nion.  Tliit'lson,  .lellV-i-son, 
IFood,  Adams,  St.  Helens.  Tacoma,  ]?akei',  Stuart, 
Cliiam,  Doii^lass,  and  others  are  nnsni'i)assed.  Their 
hoary  crests  tower  to  such  majestic  heinhtsas  to  be 
visible,  in  some  instances,  hundreds  of  miles,  and 
tlieii- many  glaciers  feed  miulity  livers  upon  whose 
bosoms  the  commerce  of  naTi(»ns  is  borne.  Mount  .bd'- 
fei'son  isl),(»-io  feet  hiu'h:  \b)iint  Adams,  i)..")7();  Mount 
St.  ib'lens.  l). 7^)0;  Mount  P,aker,  l(>,cS()0.  Mount  Hood. 
II. (>"2r),  and  ]\b)iint  Tacoma,  14.4-14.  Tlieie  are  many 
other  peaks  thai  rise  to  altitudes  of  T.ooo  to  9. <><»() 
feet,  and  from  these  iigi ires  one  may  readily  form 
somethin.ii'of  anidea  of  the  g-eneral  lieiuht  and  beauty 
of  the  Cascade  Kanue,  The  foordnlls  are  <ienerallv 
hiuh,  rollinu'.  and  [)ictures(iue,  and  so  heavily  tim- 
bei'ed  that  in  many  ])laces  one  can  ii(»t  see  a  hundred 
vards  in  anv  direction,  lliiiher  iii)  the  ranue,  how- 
ever,  this  heavy  timber  is  replaced  by  sinallertrees. 
that  stand  farther  ai)art,  and  theurowth  of  undei'- 
briish  isnotsodense;conse(piently,  the  labor  of  travel 
is  li<;liten<^land  the  raiiu'eof  vision  is  extended.  The 
.ueojoiiical  formation  in  the  Cascades  is  varied. 
Igneous  rock  alxumds;  extensive  basaltic  cliffs  and 
large  bodies  of  li'i'anite,  limestone,  sandstone,  etc., 
are  frequently  met  with,  and  neail\'  all  the  tal)le- 
lands.  in  and  about  the  foot-hills,  are  comiiosed  of 
gravel  drift,  covered  with  vegetable  mold.  The  ('as- 
ca;les  may  be  explored  with  comfojt  later  in  the 
fall  than  the  Rockies  or  other  more  eastern  ranges, 
the  winter  settini;  in  on  the  former  much  later  than 


■ 

; 

; 

! 


I' 

I" 


If 

m 

q 


1 


Vfif 

■■(■ 


2.S 


(  i:risi.\(;s  ix    rui-;  cascadks 


OXEOXTA  GOUGK,  COLUMBIA  lUVEIi.  01!K(;OX. 


ii  i 


i  1 


AM)  oTiiKi:  iir\TiX(i  Ai)vi;xTr-i;i;s 


20 


on  \h^  latter,  altliouuli  the  wintei-  rains  usually  come 
in  Novcnihei'.  Sei)teiul)er  and  October  jire  the  most 
l)leasant  months  I'or  an  outiiio-  in  the  Cjiscades, 

■••  *  ''•  It  was  late  inOctoher  when  my  wife  and 
I  started  from  Chica'-o  i'or  a  tour  of  a  month  among 
the  biistling  i)eaks  of  the  Cascades  and  the])ictui' 
es(iu('  islands  of  Pui-vt  Sound.  A  ])leasant  ride  of 
lifteen  houi's  on  the  Wisconsin  Central  I^dlroad  to 
St.  Paul,  andanothei'of  three  days  and  nights  on  the 
gi-and  old  Northern  Pacilic,  hi-ought  us  face  to  face 
with  the  glittering  crests  and  beetling  clifl's  that  were 
the  objects  of  our  pilgi-image.  As  the  toui'ist  goes 
west,  the  tirst  view  of  the  range  is  obtained  at  the 
Dalles  of  the  Columbia  rivei'.  from  whence  old  Mount 
Hood,  thirty-live  miles  distant,  reais  its  majestic 
head  high  into  the  ethereal  vault  of  heaven,  and 
neighboi'ing  peaks,  of  lessermagnitude,  unfold  them- 
selves to  the  enrai)tui'ed  visi(m.  As  the  train  whirls 
down  the  broad  Columbia  river,  every  curve,  around 
which  we  swing  Avith  dazzling  s]>eed,  reveals  to  our 
bewildei'ed  gaze  new  I'oi'ms  of  Ix'auty  and  new 
objects  of  wonder.  So  many  descrii)tions  of  the 
sceiieiy  along  this  mystic  sti'eani  have  l)een  writ- 
ten, that  evejy  reading  man,  Avoman,  and  child 
in  the  land  must  be  familiar  with  it,  and  1  will 
not  repeat  or  attemi^t  to  improve  iii)on  any  of  them. 
To  say  the  most  extravagant  representations  are  not 
exaggerated,  is  to  speak  ti'uly,  and  noonecan  know 
liow  beautiful  some  of  these  towers  and  clilfs  ai'e 
until  he  has  seen  them. 

The  train  arrived  at  Portland,  that  old  ;uid  fai-- 
famed  metropolis  of  the  Noith  Pacilic  coast,  at  half 
past  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  after  twentv- 


! 


30 


rlMI>l\(.s    I\     IIIK   (  ASCADKS 


i'oiir  hours  jtlt';is;iiitly  siiciit  in  view  ijii-'  its  in;iuy 
]>oiiits  ol' interest  jiiid  the  sn<)\v-('(»v('i'»'(l    nionntains 

t  IH'lv;|l)(>Uts.  we  illiilin  lioillded  the  Xol'theril  Piicilic 
tr:iin  :iii(l  s])e(l  t(>u;inl  'rjiconiii,  wlieie  we  nnived  nt 
six  ()"('h)('lv  in  the  «'veniim'.  Ilei-e  we  piissed  another 
<hiy  ill  looi\inii' over  ;i  hoondn.u'  \Vest«'rn  city,  whose 
i'ntnre  prosiieritv  and  ureatness  iiave  heenassm-ed  hv 
its  having-  he^Mi  ehosen  as  tlie  tide-water  terminus  of 
tile  Northern  Pacilic  Railway.  Tacoma  is  situated 
(»n  Coniinenceinent  i'ay,  an  arm  ol"  Pn.uet  Sound, 
and  has  a  harl>(»r  naviuahle  for  the  iar.uest  ocean 
steamshii)s.  The  vast  forests  of  i)ine,  iir,  and  cedar, 
with  which  it  is  surrounded,  ,uiv(^  Tacoma  ,ureat 
commercial  imi)ortanc«'as  a  lumherinu* town,  and  the 
rich  au'ricultnral  valleys  thereabout  assure  home  pro- 
duction of  breadstulfs,  veii'etahles,  meats,  etc..  sufli- 
cieiit  to  feed  its  army  of  workini-inen.  Kicli  coal  fields, 
in  tlie  immediate  nei,u'hl>orhood.  furinsh  I'uel  for 
doniestic  and  maniii'acturin.L!:  pui'poses  at  meivly 
nominal  ]»rices.  All  the  waters  hereabouts  jibound 
in  salmon,  several  varieties  of  trout  and  other  food- 
tishes,  while  in  the  woods  and  mountains  adjacent, 
elk,  deer,  and  bears  are  numerous;  so  the  place  will 
always  be  a  poj)ular  resort  for  the  sportsman  and 
the  tourist.  The  (  hief  attraction  of  the  city,  how- 
ev«'r,  for  the  traveler,  will  alwayss  be  the  tine  view 
it  alfnrdsof  Mount  Tacoma.  This  grand  old  pinnacle 
of  the  Cascade  Range,  forty-five  miles  distant,  lifts  its 
snow- mantled  form  far  above  its  neighbors,  which  are 
themsel  ves  great  n  lonntains.  while  its  glacier-crowned 
snmmit  rises,  towers,  aiid  strnggles  aloft  "til — 

"  Rouud  its  breast  the  rolling  clouds  are  spread, 
Ettrnal  sunsliine  settles  on  its  head;'' 


AM)    (>llli:i{    IIINTINCJ    Al)\  KMIKKS. 


31 


Mild  its  (•r(>Avii  is  iilinost  lost  in  tli«>  liniilh'ss  rro-ions 
of  tii«'  (l»'«'i)  Miir  si\y. 

Fnmi  tlM'  v<'r;iii(l;is  of  tlic  'I'mcoim;!  Iloiiso  on»'  may 
view  Mount  'r;i('()iu;i  until  wt-aricd  with  ua/inu'.  TIih 
>«oi'tlM'rn  I'iicilic  Jiailwav  niiis  within  liltt'cn  miles 
of  the  l)ast' of  it,  and  from  tii»'  iiraicst  point  a  trail 
haslx'cii  made,  at  ii  cost  of  some  tlioiisands  of  dollars, 
l»v  wliicli  tourists  inav  ascend  tlie  mountain  on 
horseback,  to  an  altilinh'  of  about  lo.ooo  feet,  with 
comparative  comfort;  but  he  who  u'oes  above  that. 
Iieiuht  must  work  liis  ]>assa<'e.  There  are  several 
men  wlio  claim  the  distinction  of  beinu'  the  only 
white  man  that  has  ever  been  t(»  the  top  of  this 
mountain.  Others  declare  that  it  has  been  ascended 
only  twice;  but  we  have  authentic  information  of  at 
least  three  successful  and  coni))lete  ascents  ha\in,i;' 
been  nuuh'.  Indian  leueiids  ])eo}>le  the  mountain 
with  evil  spirits,  which  are  said  to  dwell  in  boiling 
caldrons  and  yawning  caverns— 

"Calling  shapes,  ami  beck'uing  shadows  dire, 

And  airy  tongues  that  syllable  men's  names." 

Tradition  says  their  wild  shrieks  and  groans  may  be 
lieard  therein  at  all  times;  and  no  Indians  are  known 
ever  to  have  gone  any  great  distance  n[)  Mount 
Kainier,  as  they  call  it.  White  men  have  tried  to 
employ  the  native  red  men  as  guides  and  packers 
for  the  ascent,  but  no  amount  of  money  can  tempt 
them  to  invade  the  mysterious  canons  and  clill's 
Avith  which  the  marvelous  pile  is  snrroundetl.  They 
say  that  all  attempts  to  do  so,  by  either  white  or 
red  men,  must  result  in  certain  (h'struction.  Un- 
doubtedly the  first  ascent  was  made  about  thirty 
years  ago,  by  General  Uhen  Lieutenant)  Kautz,  and 


:j2 


('i:ri>r\(is  i\  '\\\v  (  axadks 


M 


Lit'Utriiant  Sliiiiulitt'i-,  of  llic  I'liltt'd  Srjites  Annv, 
\\  ho  w^'i'c  llicii  stiitioiuMl  at  Stcilacooiii,  Wasliiimion 
Territory.  They  took  pack  aiiinials,  and  with  an 
<'scort  of  ^s('V<'|■al  iii«mi  ascciKh'  I  as  i'ai"  as  tlic  aiiinials 
coiiM  ^'o.  TluMc  tlicy  h'l't  thf'iii  and  coiitiiiiicd  tlie 
<'liiiil)  on  loot.  They  were  <j;()ne  nine  (hiys,  from  the 
tiint*  of  leaviiiu'  their  nmles  until  tliev  returned  to 
the  animals,  and  claimed,  no  doubt  justly,  to  have 
^■one  !(►  the  to})  of  Liberty  (Ja J),  the  hi.^hfst  of  tile 
three  distinct  summits  that  form  the  triph'X  coiona; 
the  others  beini;-  known  as  the  Sumnut  and  the 
J)ome.  The  next  ascent,  so  far  as  known,  was  made 
in  J87()bv  Mr.  Hazard  Stevens,  who  i-ave  an  account 
of  ills  exi)ei'iences  in  the  AlJiitilir  MoiifJi///  h)V  ^o- 
vembei',  of  that  year.  In  I8<S:2,  Messrs.  \'an  Trump 
and  Smith,  of  San  Francisco,  made  a  successful 
ascent,  and  in  the  same  rear  an  Aus'iian  tourist 
who  attempted  to  ascend  the  mountain,  got  within 
three  hundred  I'eet  of  the  to}),  when  Ins  i)rogress  was 
arrested  l)y  an  avalanclie,  and  he  came  very  near 
losiiii;-  his  life.  aMr.  L.  L.  Ilolden,  of  Jioston,  went 
to  within  about  six  liundred  feet  of  the  summit  in 
ISJS;},  and  Mr.  .1.  II.  llitclicock  claims  to  liave 
readied  it  in  issr». 

From  the  j-oint  liained  by  the  trail  above  men- 
tioned, the  tourist  may  look  down  upon  the  .uiaciers 
of  th,-  Xorth  Fork  of  the  Puyallui)  Uivei-.  :i.(M)() 
i'eet  l)elo\v.  while  on  the  other  hand,  the  glaciers  of 
the  canon  of  the  Carbon  may  be  seen  4.000  feet 
beneath  him.  Away  to  the  north,  glimmering  and 
glinting  nnder  tla^  effulgent  rays  of  the  noonday 
sun,  stretches  that  labyrinth  of  waters  known  as 
Piiget  Sound — 

"  Whose  breozy  waves  tos?  up  their  silvery  spray;" 


'« 
iiw 


A.M»   olIIKi:    IHMINf;    ADVKNTIUKS. 


;}:j 


wliilc  llif  iiiiiiiy  islands  ilinvin.  draiMd  in  tlie!' 
«'v«'i'^r('('ii  I'oliaut'.  lodk  likr-  t'liicriilds  set  in  ;i  slicrt 
of  silver.  Many  [tioniiiuMit  laiidiuMiks  in  Biitisli 
('()lMnil)i;i  Mit'  stTii,  wiiilc  to  tiif  nnrili  jind  soiitli 
sti't'lclirs  tlic  ('jiscad*' l?;iii^v.  to  liic  \v«'st  the  Olym- 
pic, and  to  tilt' sontliwcst  tln'Coasi  Kanuc.  All  tli«'se 
art'  sprt'ad  ont  bt'l'ort'  tlif  t-yt-  of  tlif  tourist  in  a 
.H'l'Miid  panoi'iiina  niism'i)as.st.>tl  lor  lovt'lint'ss.  CrattT 
Lakt' i'ornis  one  of  the  nivsteiies  of  Mount  Ta('t)niM. 
Al>t»Mt  its  i'a,u<i,t'(l,  i('e-l)ound  and  rock-rihlM'd  shoit's 
ai'e  many  ihifkcavt'i-ns,  from  which  the  Intlians  con- 
ceived their  siipcistiiious  fears  of  this  mysterious 
pile.     An  explorer  says  of  one  of  thes«'  chambers: 

'•  Its  roof  is  a  (h)me  of  brilliant  ,ii,i'een,  with  loii^^ 
icicles  pendant  tlier«'from:  while  it.s  tloor  is  com- 
posed of  the  rocks  and  debris  that  formed  the  side 
of  the  crater,  worn  smooth  l)y  the  action  of  water 
and  heated  by  a  natural  rt^gister,  from  which  issue 
clouds  of  steam." 

The  giantl  canon  of  the  Puyallupistwo  and  a  half 
miles  witle,  and  from  its  licad  may  bt^  seen  the  great 
glacier.  300  feet  in  thiclviiess,  which  sui)plies  the 
great  volume  of  watei'  tluit  flows  through  the  Pu- 
yallu})  river.  From  hei'e  no  less  than  nine  different 
waterfalls,  varying  in  height  from  ,500  to  1,500  feet, 
are  visible;  and  visitors  are  sometimes  thrilled  with 
the  magnificent  spectacle  of  an  avalanche  of  thou- 
sands of  tons  of  overhanging  ice  falling  with  an 
overwhelming  crash  into  the  canon,  roaring  and 
reverbernting  in  a  way  that  almost  makes  the  great 
mountain  tremble.  Fed  l)y  the  lake,  torrents  pour 
over  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and  the  foaming  waters, 
forming  a  jierpetual  veil  of  seemi'igly  silver  lace. 


■m 


34 


rin'ISI\(;S    IX    THE   CASCADES. 


fall  with  a  i'oarful  leap  into  the  arms  of  the  surging 
waves  below.  Mount  Taconia  will  he  the  I'utui'e 
resort  of  th(^  continent,  and  many  of  its  wondrous 
beauties  yet  remain  to  be  exx)lo]'ed. 


mi 

':^      , 

■ 

M|  J|^| 

L 

ic'imt4^«'- 

'  "^..^il 

lte*.«^r--'                              _v       |i 

«''"W"^ 


-\rfl.»-       "-^r-J^ 


VIKW  ON  CliKKX  lilVEi;  NEAIl  MOUNT  TACOMA. 


lire 
oils 


CHAPTER  III. 


36 


('lfrisiN(;s    iX  'IliK  ('ASCADKS 


M! 


fl! 


<  ■ 

'■V 
'  ! 

:  1 


various  Aniericaii  and  Eiii'()i>ean  ports,  over  loo.ooo 
tons  liavin*;-  Ix^nn  shipix'd  in  l.sss,  ])i"ing-ing  the 
gro\v«M'S  the  iiandson.ie  sum  of  .s.")()().:}*i7. 

Dui-ing  the  tifteen  yeai's  since  the  l)e,i;inning  of 
this  ini[)oi't:int  cultivation,  tlie  lu)p  ci'o[)  is  said 
never  to  have  i'aiied,  nor  has  it  been  attacked  l)y 
disease,  noi"  detei'iorated  by  leason  of  the  ro<'ts  beinn' 
kept  on  the  same  land  without  repl;inting.  It  is 
believed  that  the  Dwaniish,  t\w  Wliite  Kiver,  and 
the  Pu.yallup  Valleys  coidd  easily  pro<'U<''^  as  nuiny 
liops  as  are  now  raised  in  the  United  "^r.  «  if  labor 
could  be  obtained  to  pick  them,  Iik.  u.  aave  been 
mainly  relied  upon  to  do  the  ^  'cki]iu\  and  they  have 
flocked  to  the  Sound  from  nearly  all  parts  of  the 
Territory,  ewjn  from  beyond  the  mountains.  Many 
have  come  in  canoes  from  regions  near  the  outlet  of 
the  Sound,  from  British  Columbia,  and  even  fi'om 
far  off  Alaska,  tt)  engage  t<'m[)orai'ily  in  this  ()ccui)a- 
tion;  then  to  purchase  goods  and  leturn  to  their 
wiu'wams.  Thev  excel  the  whites  in  their  skill  as 
pickers,  and,  as  a  rule,  conduct  themselves  i)eace- 
iibi  V. 

Elliot  Bay.  on  which  Seattle  is  l)uilt,  aftoi'd>  .  '.-ne 
liarlun*  and  good  anchoiage,  while  Lakes  Uni  i-  •  l 
Washington,  large  bodies  of  fresh  water— t.'" 
former  eleven  and  the  latter  eighteen  feet  above  tide 
level — lie  just  outside  the  city  limits,  opposite. 
There  are  rich  coal  ndnes  at  hand,  which  produce 
nearly  a  nullion  dollai's  worth,  each  year.  Large 
I'eitile  tracts  of  agricultui'al  lands,  in  the  near 
vicinity,  produce  grain,  vegetabl-  ■  and  f''Uts  of 
many  varieties,  and  in  great  luy  ■ '  jice.  ir*'.  ore 
of  an  excellent  quality  abounds  in  the  hiii-    'id 


il 


.vNi>  oTHKi:  nrNTrN(;  AOVKNTrrj-.s. 


37 


hear 
of 
ore 
-  id 


niountaiiis  \n\rk  of  llic  city,  and  witli  all  ^liese 
iiatui'al  resources  and  advaiitaufs  at  lit-r  coiiiinaiid, 
St'iittltMs  sure  to  hccome' a  ureal  nietr()])olis  in  the 
iit-ai-  fii'ui'e.  Tilt'  climate  of  tlie  Pugel  Sound  coun- 
tiy  is  teni[)ei'ate;  snow  seldom  falls  before  Christ- 
mas, never  1o  a  ui'eater  depth  than  a  few  inches  in 
the  valleys  and  lowlands,  and  seldom  lies  moi-e 
llian  a  few  days  at  a  time.  ]Nry  friend,  Mr.  \V. 
A.  l*eny.  of  Seattle,  in  a  letter  dated  Decenihei- (5, 
says: 

"The  v.eather.  since  yoni'  departure,  has  been 
veiy  beantifiil.  The  inoininu-  of  your  arrival  was 
the  coldest  flay  we  have  had  this  ant'imn.  i^'lowei's 
are  now  bloonunu'  in  the  liai'dens.  and  vestei'dav  a. 
friend  who  li\('s  at  I^ake  Wasliinuton  se?it  nie  a  box 
of  delicious  sti'awbei-ries.  [)icked  from  the  vines  in 
his  uarden  in  the  ojh  n  air  on  December  4.  while 
you.  jioor  ieil(»w,  were  shiverinu',  wrap})ed  up  in 
numberless  coats  and  fiii-s.  in  the  arctic  i-euions  of 
Chicau'o.  Whv  don't  von  emiuratej  There's  lots  of 
room  for  you  on  the  Siimas,  whei'e  the  ilowers  aie 
e\ei'  bloominu',  where  the  summer  ne\-er  dies,  where 
the  uood  JiOid  sends  the  ///cr  (ui't'ai  I  salmon  t(»  your 
verv  door:  .wul  where,  if  \()u  want  to  sho(»l,  \()U 
have  youi'  choiee  fioiu  the  tiny  jacksnipe  to  the 
cultu>>  bear  or  the  lordly  elk." 

Theic  are  thousands  of  aeies  of  natural  cranben-y 
marsi;es  on  tie  shores  of  the  sound,  w  here  this  fiuit 
iiidws  w  i!d  III'  n(,(>d  (juality.  and  in  uieat  abundance. 
It  has  not  been  cultivated  tlieic  yei,  but  fortunes 
will  b"  made  in  that  industry  in  the  near  future. 

]?ut  the  crowiunu'  ulory  of  Puuet  Sound,  and  its 
greatest  source  ol'   wealth,  are  tlie  vast  forests  of 


li 


■Si 

a 


1 


i 


AND    n'l'irKll    mNTI.\(i    Al>VKNTr  IIKS 


no 


J. 


a 
2; 


;3 
3 


tinibcr.  It  is  scarcely  iidvisablc  lo  tt'll  the  tnitli 
couccniiiiii- the  size  to  wliicii  some  of  the  uiiiiit  Mrs 
tiiul  ce(hirs  iiTow  ill  this  country,  lest  [  l)e  accused  of 
exau'L-eration;  but.  Tor  proof  of  what  I  say,  it  will 
only  be  necessary  to  iiujuire  of  any  resident  of  th«' 
Sound  country.  There  are  liundreds  of  lir  and  cedar 
ti'ecs  i^i  these  woods  twentv  to  tweutv-tlve  feet  ill 
diatnelrr,  above  the  spur  I'oofs,  and  o\"er  three 
hiindi'ed  I'eet  liigh.  A  cube  was  cut  fi'om  a  lir  tree, 
near  Vancouver,  and  ^iiipped  to  the  Colonial  Kxhi- 
bition  in  London  iji  1880,  that  measured  nine  feet 
and  ei.ii'ht  inches  in  thickness  each  way.  The  baik 
of  this  tree  was  fourteen  inches  thick.  Another 
tree  was  cut,  trimmed  to  a  length  of  three  Imndred 
and  two  feet,  and  sent  to  the  same  (h'stination,  but 
this  one,  I  am  told,  was  only  six  feet  tjn'ough  at 
the  butt. 

From  one  tree  cut  near  Seattle  six  sawdogs  were 
taken,  live  of  which  weiv  thiity  feet  long,  each,  and 
the  other  was  twentv-four  feet  in  lenuth.  This  tree 
was  only  live  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  the 
first  limb  grew  at  a  height  of  two  feet  above  whei'e 
the  last  log  was  cut  off,  or  over  one  liundi'ed  and 
seventy  feet  fr(^m  the  gi'ound.  A  red  cedar  was  cut 
in  the  same  neighboi'hood  that  measured  eighteen 
feet  in  diameter  six  feet  abov<'  the  gi-ouiid  ;  and 
thei'e  is  a  well-authenticated  case  of  :i  nuin,  named 
lle[)burn,  having  lived  in  one  of  these  cedai's  foi'over 
a  yetir,  while  clearing  up  a  farm.  The  tree  was  hollow 
at  the  ground,  the  cavity  measuring  twenty-two  feet 
in  (he  clear  and  ruiuiing  u[)  to  a  knot  hole  about 
foity  feet  above.  The  homesteader  laid  a  Hoor  in 
the  hollow,  seven  oreight  feet  above  theground,  and 


^— ^ 


40 


CRriSlX(;S    IX   TIIK   CASCADKS 


i'V 


•  I 
1  f 

If 


I     n 


l>lii('<'(l  ii  huldcr  :iu;)iiist  tlio  \v;ill  l)y  wliicli  to  .ao  up 
jiiid  down.  On  tilt'  lloor  li<'  hiiili  :i  stoiic  lirfi)l;i('t', 
and  froiii  it  to  llie  knot  liolc  ;d)ov»'  a  slick  ;in<l  clav 
ciiinmcy.  II<' livod  nps'airs  aiidkcpl  his  liois*' an<L 
cow  downstaii's.  It  may  hf  well  to  ('Xplain  that  lie 
was  a  baclit'Ior.  and  timssav*'  th<' rcad'>r;iny  anxiety 
as  to  how  his  wife  and  childfcn  liked  the  situation. 

Thf  "  Siiiuas  Saplinu"  stands  near  Siiinas  i^akc, 
northeast  of  Seattle,  it  is  a  hollow  cedar,  tweiity- 
thiee  I't'et  ill  the  clear,  on  the  uroiind.  and  is  esti- 
mated to  l)e  jil'teen  l"e<'t  ill  diameter  twenty  feet 
above  the  uronnd.  1  liave,  in  several  instances, 
counted  more  than  a  liundivd  of  these  maniinotli 
trees  on  an  acre  of  land,  and  am  informed  that 
one  tract  has  been  cut  oil"  tliat  yielded  over  l.odo.coo 
feet  of  Inmber  per  acre.  In  this  case  tie  trees  stood 
so  close  to.u'etlier  that  many  of  the  slumps  liad  to  Ix^ 
duu' out,  after  the  trees  had  been  felh-d.  bcfoi^ihe 
lous  could  be  li'otteii  out.  The  system  of  iou'ii'iiiu'  ill 
vou'iH'  liere  diU'ers  widely  from  that  practi<'ed  in 
Wisconsin.  Michiiiaii.  Maine,  and  elsewhere.  ]S(> 
snow  or  ice  are  required  here,  and,  in  fact,  if  snow- 
falls to  any  considerable  depth  while  crews  are  in 
the  woods  a  halt  is  called  until  it  uoes  oil". 

(,,'oi'duroy  in;  .Is  are  built  into  the  timber  as  fast 
asre(iuii'ed,  on  which  tlie  teams  travel,  so  that  it  is  not 
necessary  that  the  uround  should  be  even  frozen, 
Skids,  twelve  to  eiu'hteeii  iiu'lies  thick,  are  laid  across 
these  roads,  about  nine  feet  apart,  and  sunk  into  the 
ground  so  as  to  })roject  about  six  inches  above  the 
surface  ;  the  l)ark  is  peeled  olt' the  to[»,  they  are  kept 
greased,  and  the  logs  are  "  snaked"  over  them  ^vith 
four  to  seven  yoke  of  cattli'.  as   may  ])e  recpiiied. 


AVI)    (tTIIF.I!    inXTIX*;    ADVKXrrUKS. 


4t 


Tilt' wcahlil.T  <)|ii'r:il<»is  use  st<';iiii  locomotives  ;ni(l 
i-AVs,  hiiildiiiii'  tincks  into  tlif  tiiiilx'i-  iis  I'nst  Mini  as 
I'ar  as  iifi'<|f(l.  Tills  nfrat  tiiiilirr  hell  isc()-cxt»'iisi\(> 
with  Piiu't't  Soiiiid.  the  Straits  of  (Icoiiiia.  iiiid  the 
( 'ax-ad*'  Mountains.  1  ludirve  that  at  the  prt'sciit 
rati'  at  wlilcli  limil>t'r  is  Ix'lii;^'  coiisiinicd,  there  is  lir, 
pliie.  and  cedai"  eiMtiiuh  in  Washington  Territory  and 
I'ritUh  ( 'oliiiiil)la  to  last  the  world  a  thousand  years. 


ss 


1- 


CHAPTER  I\. 
['GF/r  SorXI)  is  ii  "Teal  iiihma 


sea,  «'xt eliding-  iieuily  2^)0  miles 
iroiii  the  ocean,  jiavin^-  a  sur- 
faci'  (tC  al)()Ut  2,01)0  !S(j^uaie  l^il<^s, 
and  a  sliore  line  of  I,;")!)-!  miles, 
indented  with  nunuMons  l)ays,  harhors.  and  iidets, 
each  with  its  pecnlitir  nann* ;  and  it  contains  numer- 
ous islands  inhal)lte(l  by  I'armeis,  lumbermen,  herds- 
men, and  those  engaged  in  ([uarryin:^  lime  and  build- 
ing stone.  Nothing  can  sur[)ass  the  beauty  of  these 
waters  and  their  safety.  Not  a  slioal  exists  within 
the  ISound,  the  Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Admiralty 
Bay,  Hood's  Canal,  or  the  Straits  of  Geoigia,  that 
would  in  any  way  interru[»t  their  navigation  by  a 
seventy- four-gun  ship.  There  is  no  country  in  the 
world  that  i)ossesses  wat<M's  e(|ual  to  these.  The 
jshores  of  all  the  inlets  and  bays  are  remaikab'y  bold, 
so  much  so  that  a  ship's  side  would  touch  the 
shoi'e  before  her  keel  would  touch  the  ground.  The 
country  by  which  tlu'se  waters  are  surrounded  has 
a  remarkably  salubrious  climate. 

The  region  affords  every  advantage  for  the  accom- 
modation  of  a  vast  commercial  and  military  marine, 
with  conveniences  for  docks,  and  there  ai'e  a  great 
many  sites  for  towns  and  cities,  which  at  all  times 
would  be  well  supplied  with  water,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  which  is  well  adapted  to  agricult- 

(4-J) 


ANT)   OTIIKU   lir.\TF.\(^    ADVENmiKS. 


43 


lire,  would  supply  Jill  thn  wautsofti  liir<;vi)()pu]ati()ii. 
NoiKii't  of  the  woi-M  all'oi-ds  liiu'i- ishnids,  .sounds, 
oi'agTeat<'nmnil)('rol'harl)oi'stii;ni  are  found  wirhin 
these  waters.  They  are  capable  of  receiving  the 
liirn-est  class  of  vessels,  and  are  without  a  sin<;le  hid- 
den  daii.u"r.  From  the  lise  and  fall  of  the  tide  (18 
feet),  every  facility  is  afforded  for  the  erection  of 
woj-ks  for  a  «;Teat  maritime  nation.  The  rivers  also 
fnrnishliundivds  of  sites  for  water-power  for  nianu- 
fMctuiin.i--  purposes.  On  this  Sound  .are  already  situ- 
ated many  thrivino- towns  and  cities,  besides' those 
already  mentioned,  Ijidding-  for  the  commejve  of  the 
world. 

The  flora  of  the  Sound  ren;ion  is  varied  and  inter- 
estino-.  A  saturated  atmosphere,  constantly  in  con- 
tact with  the  Coast  Kange  system  of  ii[)heaval,  to- 
gether with  the  warm  temperature,  induces  a  growth 
of  vegetation  almost  tropical  in  its  luxuriance.  On 
the  better  soils,  the  shot-clay  liills  and  uplands,  and 
on  the  alluvial  plains  and  river  bottoms,  grow  the 
great  trees,  already  mentioned,  and  many  other 
species  of  almost  equal  beauty,  though  of  no  commer- 
cial value. 

"The  characteristic  shrubs  are  the  cornels  and  the 
spiraeas,  many  species.  These,  with  the  low  thickets 
oi^H'dh\\{Ganltheria  sliaUoiiX  Oi'egon  grape  (berries) 
and  fern  (chiefly  pteris,  which  is  the  most  abunchmt'),' 
and  the  tangle  of  the  trailing  blackberry  {Rubus 
pedatus)  make  the  forests  almost  impeneti-able  save 
where  the  ax  or  the  wild  bea^jt  or  the  wilder  Are  have 
left  their  trails. 

''The  dense  shade  of  the  forest  gives  little  oppor- 
tunity for  the  growth   of  the   more  lowly   herbs. 


Ill 


1 


A.M>  oriii.i:  iirNiiN«i  adv knit  1:1;- 


45 


§ 

>' 


"When*  llu'  lire  has  opciK-il  tlipsn  shiidt's  to  llir  liulit 
tlie  almost  iiiiivt'isnl  liivurcd  {cpilohiinti)  and  tlif 
l()\<'ly  l)i(»\vu  lii<'-iii()>s  ( f'liiidria  tahouiid.  In  swamps 
and  lowlands  the  comlmstion  of  (h'cay,  ahnostas 
(piick  and  clVt'ctiv.' as  liio  ils.'ir,  opens  lai'.iiv  spaces 
to  ill*'  liulil  ;  and  lnM'«^  al)onnd  chu'tly  Ili«'  skunk 
<'al)l)a,u<'  ol"  lli<*  Pacilic  roast  (7//.s'/(7///o//)  and  many 
I'oi'nis  of  the  lovlit'st  mosses.  jLiTown  l)t'yond  belief 
save  hy  those  who  liave  looked  npoli  theii'  ti'opical 
con.u'eneis.  //f/innniis  -And  Miu'iDiis  make  the  uieat 
massAvhich  meet  the  eye  :  and  anionu'  the  many  less 
obvions  foi'nis  a  carefnl  seaicli  will  leveal  many 
si)ecies  characteiistic  of  this  coast  alone.  The  lower 
foinis  of  the  cryptouams.  the  lichens  and  the  I'nnu'i, 
abonnd  in  <;i'eatest  profnsion  as  miuht  be  exjtected. 
The  chief  intei'cst  in  these,  in  the  present  state  of  our 
knowled.u'e  of  them,  spiinus  from  theii*  disjxtsition 
to  invade  the  more  valnable  J'oiins  of  vegetation 
which  follow  advancing  civilization." 

1  measnred  one  fununs. which  I  fonnd  growing  njjon 
the  decaying  triiidv  of  a,  mammoth  iii',  that  was  thii- 
teen  inches  tliickand  thirty-fonr  inclies  wi(h'.  I  have 
fivqnently  seen  mosses  glowing  on  rotten  k)gs,  in 
tlie  deep  shades  ol"  these  lonely  forests,  that  were 
twelve  to  sixteen  inches  dee}),  and  others  hanging 
from  branches  overhead  three  feet  or  more  in  length. 
There  are  ])laces  in  tiiv  se  d(^nse  forests  where  the  trees 
.stand  so  close  and  Ineir  branches  ai'e  so  inteitwined 
that  the  snn's  rays  never  reach  the  ground,  .and  have 
not,  perliaps  for  centuries  ;  and  it  is  but  natui-al  that 
these  shade  and  moisture  loving  i)lants  should  grow 
to  great  size  in  such  ])laces. 

Tlie  fauna  of  tliis  Territory  includes  the  elk.  black- 


■^T" 


I  if 


46 


(•|!IFSI\(;«;    T\   TIIH   CASCADKS 


tailed  (leer,  ('('rnts  C()/niiil)i((iiii.s ;  tlie  iniile-dccr, 
CcrrKs  iiKicroins :  ihi'  \'ir'ji,iiiiii  (l«'»'r,  Cernis  vinjiu- 
i'anff.s:  llif  cailhoii,  llic  Hocky  Moimtaiii  goat, 
Rocky  Mountain  nIkm'p,  tlic  griz/ly  and  Maclv  bear. 
Ajnoiig  tin'  smaller  mainnials  tlicrc  are  tlie  laccoon, 
the  coMuai',  wild  cat,  gray  wolf.  Mack  woll*,  i)i'airie 
wolf  or  coyote,  gray  and  red  fox,  iisher,  mink, 
martin,  Deaver,  otter,  ,sea  otter,  r«'d  .s(iniri*el,  ermine, 
mnskrat,  se;i  lion,  fnr  and  hair  senls,  wolverine, 
sknnk,  badger,  porcnpine,  marmot,  s\vani[)  liare, 
jack-ial)l)it,  etc.  Of  birds  and  wild  fowls  ther<'  is 
a  long  list,  anionu' which  mav  be  mentioned  sev(M'al 
varieties  of  geese  and  brant,  including  the  rare  and 
toothsome  black  l)rant,  Avliich  in  season  hovers  in 
black  clouds  about  the  sand  si)its  ;  t  canvas  back, 
red  head,  blue  bill,  b'al,  widgeon,  si  m',  and  vari- 

ous other  ducks  ;  ruJl'ed.  pinnated,  jind  blue  grouse  ; 
various  snijx'S  and  i)lovers ;  eagles,  liawks,  owls, 
woodpeckeis,  jays,  magpies,  nuthatches,  warblers, 
sparrows,  etc.  There  are  many  varieties  of  game  and 
food  lislies  in  the  Sound  and  its  tribntaries,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  salmon  and  trout  already  mentioned. 
In  short,  this  whole  country  is  a  i)aradise  for  the 
sportsmnn  and  the  naturalist,  whatever  the  specialty 
of  either. 

AVe  left  Seattle,  en  route  for  A'ictoi'ia,  at  seven 
o'clock  on  a  bi'iglit,  crisp  November  morning.  The 
air  was  still,  the  bay  was  like  a  sheet  of  glass,  and 
only  long,  low  swells  were  running  outside.  We 
had  a  charming  view  of  the  Cascade  ^fonntains  to 
the  east  and  the  Olympics  to  the  west,  all  day.  The 
higher  peaks  were  covered  with  snow,  and  the  sun- 
light glinted  and  shimmered  across  them  in  playful,, 


I 


AND  (HiiKU  iir\riN<i  Ai>\i.Mri:i;s. 


47 


chcfi'v  luoofl.  T)<'('|)  sli;i<l()\vs  r»'ll  'itliwMit  <l;irk 
Ciirioiis.  ill  \vli()s»' i;l()()iiiy  (l»'l)llis  we  IVlr  sure  licl'ds 
of  »'lk  ;iii<l  (l«'<'r  wt'ic  nippiiiii"  the  t«'n<l«'i'  licrlKiuc, 
mikI  iiloiin'  whose  niniiii;-  rivers  siiiidiy  hears  were 
(l()iil)lless  hreakl'asliiiii,'  on  saliuoii  siraiulit.  Old 
Mount  Baker's  Mia.jt'sticiiead,  risiiin'  |(».S(t(»  I'eet  al»ove 
us  ami  only  lil'ty  iiiiies  away,  was  tlie  most  proin- 
iiieiit  <>i)ject  in  the  u'orueoiis  landscape,  and  one  on 
which  we  never  tired  ol'  uaziiii;'.  We  had  only  to 
cast  our  eyes  IVoin  the  «;-i'and  scen«'  ashore  to  that 
at  our  feet,  and  rice  I'cfsii,  to — 

"  So(.'  the  mountains  kiss  liiuli  iiojivcn, 
Ami  tilt'  wiivi's  cliisp  OIK"  iiiidtlicr." 

A  lar.^-e  colony  of  ,i;'iills  followed  the  steamer,  with 
ceaseless  l>eat  of  downy  winu's,  from  dayli.uht  till  dai'k, 
and  after  the  Hrst  hour  thev  seemed  to  i-euaid  us  as 


old    i'iiend> 


Thev  hover<Ml  al»out   tln^   deck    like 


wingf  d  s[)irits  around  a  lost  child.  Stran,<;-e  bird 
thus  to  poise  with  tii'eless  wiiiu,'  over  this  watery 
waste  (lay  after  dayl  Neai'  tln'  route  of  the  vessel 
one  of  the  i»oor  creatures  lav  dead,  drifting'  sadiv 
and  alone  on  the  cold  waves.     Mvsterious  creature. 


w 


itli— 


"  Luck  lustre  eye.  aivl  idU'  winir, 

And  smirched  breast  that  skims  uo  more, 

Ilasl  thou  not  even  ii  grave 
Upon  the  dreary  shoie, 

Forlorn,  forsaken  ihinLrV" 

Our  feathered  I'ellow-passenifers  ijreeted  us  with 
plaintive  cries  whenever  westeppedout  of  the  cabin, 
dropping  into  the  water  in  pursuit  of  every  stray 
bit  of  food  that  was  thrown  overboard  from  the  cook- 
room.     My  wife  begged  several  plates  of  stale  bread 


rr 

; 

: 

■ 

1 

' 

■ 

1 

i 

jii 

- 

jl 

11 


48 


CUnsiNGS   IX  Tl'K   CASCADKJ; 


lV():ii  til:' steward,  and,  l)i'eakiii,i:;  it  into. small  pieces, 
tluvu'  liandruls  at  a  time  into  the  water. 

Twinitvortliirtvof  tlie  l)irdsw()idd  droi)  in  al)un('li 
where  the  bread  fell,  and  a  livelv  seraniMe  would 
ensue  for  the  coveted  food.  The  luckv  ones  wouM 
quickly  corral  it,  however,    when  tiie  whole  tli.uiit. 


OUR  lEATUERED  FELLOW-PASSENGEUS. 

risini?  a^u'ain,  woidd  follow  and  soon  overtake  the 
vessel.  Then  they  would  cluster  around  th'-ir  jiatron. 
cooinii",  and  coaxinu;  for  more  of  the  welcome  oountv. 
I  took  out  my  detective  cjunera  and  made  a  numbej' 
of  exposures  on  the  <i"ulls,  which  result<'d  vei'y  satis- 
factorilv.  Manv  of  the  ixiiits  show  them  sadlv  out* 
of  focus,  but  this  was  unavoidable,  as  1  focused  at 


Axi)  oTirr-Mi  in'XTr.\(^  ai>\  kxtckks 


49 


twenty  feet,  tnul  of  course  all  thai  wciv  nearer  or 
farther  away,   at  the  insr-.mt   of  exjxhsuv".  ai-e  not 
shar]).     Many,   liowcvci-,   that  were  on  wini-'  at  the 
time  of  makiiio-  the  exposure,  and  at  the  inoi^n-  dis- 
tance  from  the   I-ns.    are  clearly  and  shai'ply  cur. 
These  i»ictiires  form  a  most  interestinii'  stnt'ly  for 
artists,    anatomists,    naturalists,    and    others,'   the 
winus  beinu-  shown  in  .'v.My  position  assumed  by  the 
birds  in  fliuht.     The  shutter  worked  at  so  hiuh  a 
pressui-e  that  only  one  (.r  two  biids  in  the  entire 
series  show  any  movement  at  all,  and  ihev  are  but 
v.-iy  sliuhtly  blui'ivd.      When  wo  consider  that  the 
steamei-,  as  well  as  the  oulls,   was  in  motion-run- 
nin-  ten  miles  an  hour-treniblin-  and    vibratino- 
Irom  stem  to  stei-n..   an<l  that,  in  nianv  cases,  the 
l)irds  were  o( , inn.  i,i.,n  opposite  direction  from  that 
of  the  vessel.  t!ie  results  obtained  are  certainly  niai-- 
velous.      It  may   interest  some  of  niv   readi'i-s    to 
know   that   I   used  an  Anthony  detective  camera, 
makin--  a  fourd)y-tive-incli  picture,  to  which  islitted 
a  roll  holdei'.  and  in  all  the  work  done  on  this  trip 
I  used  negative  paper.     I  also  obtained,  en  mute 
several  good  views  of  various  islands,  and  jioints  of 
interest  on  tl^   mainland,    while   the   boat   was   in 
motion. 

There  are  man\  l)eautiful  scenes  in  and  about  the 
yound:  many  chai  Cling  islands,  clothed  in  everi-Teen 
folij.ge,  from  wlx.se  interiors  issue  clear,  sparklin<'- 
bi-ooks  of  fresh  water;  while  the  maiidan<l  shores 
rise  abruptly,  in  jdaces,  to  several  hundreds  of  1^,4 
bearing  their  bui-(hMis  of  giant  trees.  Tln-re  aiv  per- 
pendicular cut  banks  on  many  of  the  ishuids  and 
the  mainland  shores,  thirty,  fc.rtv,  or  tiftv  feet  hi<di 


■^  —rrr 


wammmmm 


I 


1  ! 


it 


(•")0) 


*f» 


AND   OTHKII    IHNTIN(i    ADV  KNTC  KKS, 


51 


C 


almost  pcrpniidicuhir,  made  so  by  the  hungry  waves 
liaviiig  eaten  away  tlieir  roiindations,  and  thn  earth 
liavinii"  fallen  into  the  brine,  leaving  exposed  ]>are 
walls  of  sand  and  gravel.  On  \Vhi(ll)y  Island,  one 
o!"  the  lai'gest  in  the  Sound,  there  was.  up  to  a  i'ew 
yejirs  ago.  a  herd  of  wild  cattle,  to  which  no  or  3 
made  claim  of  ownershii),  and  whieh  were,  conse- 
(piently,  cijnsidered  It^uitima^e  game  for  anyone 
who  cared  to  hunt  them.  They  Avere  waiy  and  cun- 
ning in  the  extreme.  The  elk  or  deer,  native  and  to 
the  manor  born,  could  not  be  more  so.  But,  alas, 
these  cattle  were  not  to  be  the  ])rey  of  true  consci- 
entious s))orfsmen;  for  the  greed  of  the  mai'ket 
hunter  and  the  skin  hunter  exceeded  the  natural 
ciiuninu'  of  the  noble  animals,  and  thev  have  been 
nearly  exteruiinated;  only  ten  or  twelve  remain,  and 
they  will  socm  have  to  yield  up  their  lives  to  the 
insatiable  greed  of  those  infamous  l)utchers. 

One  of  the  ost  curious  and  interesting  points  in 
the  sound  is  De.»'ption  Pass.  This  is  a  narrow  chan- 
nel or  passage  between  iwo  islands,  (nilv  liftv  yards 
wide,  and  about  two  hundred  yard-  lonu".  On  either 
side  rise  abrupt  and  towering  col  iinuis  of  basaltic  rock, 
and  during  both  ebb  and  tlow  the  ride  i  uns  tliiough 
it,  Ix^ween  Padilla  and  Dugall:'  Bays,  with  all  the 
wild  fuiv  and  bewilderinii'  s])eeil  of  the  maelstrom. 

«  *   ^         J. 

This  i)ass  takes  its  aame  from  ih-  fact  of  there 
being  three  coves  near — on  th*  west  coast  of 
Whidby  Island — that  look  so  niudi  like  Deception 
that  they  are  often  mistaken  foi- it  at  rught  or  dur- 
ing  foggy  weather,  evenby  expei-ienced  navii'-ators. 
All  the  skill  and  care  of  the  best  i)ilots  are  re(piired 
to  make  the  pass  in  safety,  and  the  bravest  of  them 


52 


CKriSl.\(iS    I.\    TinO   (  ASCADKS. 


lieave  a  sigh  oH.  reVmi  wlieii  once  its  beetling  cliffs 
and  spetliing  abysses  are  far  astern.  Gulls  hover 
about  this  weird  plnce,  nnd  eagles  soar  above  it  at  all 
houi's,  as  it'  adni.i'ing  its  pristine  beauties,  yet  in 
supei'stitious  awe  of  the  dai'k  depths,  ^[ount  Erie, 
two  miles  n  way,  rising  to  a  height  of  ],'}()()  I'eet,  casting 
its  deep  shadows  across  rlie  pass  and  surrounding- 
waters,  completes  a  picture  of  rare  l)eauty  and 
•grandeur. 

We  leached  Vic^toria,  that  quaint,  old,  aristocratic, 
ultra-English  town,  just  as  the  sun  was  siidving 
beneath  the  waves,  that  rolled  restlessly  on  the  surface 
of  Juan  de  Fuca  Strait.  We  were  surorised  to  see 
so  substantial  and  well-built  a  town  as  this,  and 
one  possessing  so  much  of  the  air  of  age  and  inde- 
pendt'iice,  so  far  north  and  west.  One  might  iradily 
imagine,  from  the  exterior  appearance  of  the  city 
and  Is  sui'i'oundings,  that  he  were  in  the  province 
of  Quebi  c  instead  of  that  of  Jjiilish  Columbia.  ]\fy 
wife  felt  that  she  must  not  remain  h)nger  away  from 
home  at  present,  and  we  were  to  part  here;  there- 
fore, in  the  early  morning  she  eml)ark('d  for  home, 
while  1  ti'ansferred  my  effects  and  self  to  the  steamer 
Princess  Louise,  bound  for  Burrard  Inlet. 


t      ! 


CHAPTER  V. 

(iMvliglitiii  tlie  moiriing  we  entered  Eng-]isli 
J^ay,  luiving  crossed  tlie  strait  diinno^the 
niglit.    The  sun  ('limbed  up  over  the  snow- 
mantled  mountains  into  a  cloudless  sky, 
,  and  his  rays  were  reflected  from  the  limjtid,' 
tramjuil  surface  of  the  bay: 

"  Blue,  dirkly,  deeply,  beautifully  blue," 

--..  i^      US  if  from  the  face  of  u  mirj-or.     A  few 
miles  to  the  east,  the  triple-mouthed  J^^iazer 
empties  its  great  volumr   .,f    fresh,    cold,    glacier 
tinted    fluid    into    the    briny    inland  sea.     and  its 
delta,  level   as  a  floor,  stretches  back  many  miles 
on  either  side  of  the  river  to  the  foot-hills' of  the 
Cascades.     Thousands  of  ducks  sat  idly  and  lazily 
m  tlie   water,    sunning  themselves,   pruning  their 
l'<'atl)(M's,   and  eyeing  us   curiously    but   fearlessly, 
as   we    ]>assed,    sometimes    within    twenty-five    or 
thiity  yai-ds  of  them.     A  few  geese  crossed  hither 
and  thither,  in  low,  long,  (hirk  lim^s,  uttering  their 
familial-  honk,   honk;    but   tliey   were  more^wai'v 
than  their  lesser  (ousins,  and  kept  Avell  out  of  range. 
I  asked  the  purser  if  there  was  any   rule  auainst 
shooting  on  board,  and  he  said  m,:  to  oo  down  on 
the  after  main  d(M'k,  and  shoot  until  1  was  tired.     I 
took  my  Winchester  ex])ress  from  the  case,  went 
below  and  opened  on  the  ducks.    They  at  onrv  found 


\w 


.04 


('i!risiN(;s  ix  TiiK  rAS('Ain:s 


.1 


it  necessary  to  get  out  of  the  country,  and  their 
motion,  and  that  of  tlie  vessel  coni])ined,  caused  nie 
to  score  several  close  misses,  but  I  jinally  found  the 
bull's-eye,  so  tosjjeak,  and  killed  tliiccin  r;i])id  suc- 
cession.    Then  the  mate  came  down  and  said: 

''We  don't  allow  no  one  to  be  lirin"  oil  ,^uns  on 
board." 

'•  I  have  the  i)urs('i'"s  peimission,"  I  said. 

'•  \V(dl,"'  he  replied,  "IIih  captain's  l)elt('i'  author- 
ity than  the  purser  on  this  here  l)oat,"'  whereui)on 
he  retui'ued  to  the  cabin  deck,  and  so  did  1.  I  was 
not  seriously  disap])ointed,  howevei',  lor  I  caird 
little  for  the  duck  shootin,i>';  T  was  in  q.iest  of  hirovi' 
gauie,  and  only  Avanted  to  i)ractice  a  little,  to  renew 
acipmintance  and  familiarity  with  my  weai)on. 
Eai'ly  in  the  day  we  entered  Ihu'i'ard  Inlet,  a  narrow, 
crooked,  and  pecidiarly  shaped  arm  of  the  salt  water, 
that  winds  and  threads  its  wav  manv  miles  back 
into  the  mourdains,  so  narrow  in  placi's,  that  a  boy 
may  casta  stone  across  it,  and  y(^t  so  deep  as  to  be 
navigable  for  the  largest  ocean  stejimship.  The  inlet 
is  so  luirrow  and  crooked  that  a  stranger,  sailing  into 
it  for  the  lirst  time,  would  pronounce  it  n  great  river 
coming  down  from  the  mountains.  Through  this 
picturesque  body  of  water  our  good  boat  cleft  tlu^ 
shadows  of  the  oveilunming  mountains  until  nearlv 
noon,  when  we  landed  at  \^ancouver,  the  terunnus 
of  the  Canadian  Paciiic  Railway.  In  consequence  of 
this  important  selection,  the  place  is  a  l)usy  mart  of 
trade.  The  clang  of  saw  and  hammer,  the  rattle  of 
wheels,  the  general  din  of  a  building  boom,  are  su<'h 
as  to  tire  one's  nerves  in  a  few  hours.  Later  in  the 
day  we  reached  Port  Moody.     This  town  was  origi- 


AM>    OTHKII    in\l'I\<;    AltVKNTIKKS 


;).) 


nnlly  dcsiuiKited  ns  the  lidc-w.itci' tcnniniis  of  the 
load,  and  liad  its  l)i'iel'  era  of  ])i'.»si)('ril y  and  spccii- 
]ati()U  ill  ('<)iis('(|uen('«';  hut  now  tliat  tlir  ]>lan  Jias 
been  ('liang«nl  it  lias  bctMi  ivdnced  to  a  mere  way 
station,  and  lias  relai)srd  into  the  dullest  kind  oi" 
dnllncss. 

Fi'om  here  I  staged  aci'oss  the  divide  to  New 
Westniinstei'.  on  the  Frazer  river,  tln^  home  of  iNIr. 
,1.  C  IIii,uhs,  who  had  invited  me  tlieie  to  hnnt 
Rockv  Monntain  uoats  with  him.  1  was  urieved 
beA'ond  nieasnre,  however,  to  learn  on  nivarrival  that 
he  was  dangeronsly  ill.  and  went  at  once  to  ids 
house,  but  he  was  unahle  tost^eme.  Tie  sank  I'apidly 
inmi  the  date  of  his  lii-st  illness,  died  two  days  aftei' 
mv  arrival,  and  I  therid'ore  fonnd  mvself  in  a  stranu'e 
land,  with  no  friend  oi'  accinaintance  to  whom  1 
could  <i'o  for  information  or  advice. 

My  lirst  ol)ject,  therefore,  was  to  lind  a  guide  to  take 
me  into  the  mountains,  and  although  I  found  seveial 
ju'etended  sportsmen,  I  could  hear  of  no  one  who  had 
ever  killed  a  goat,  except  pool'  Hughs,  an<l  a  ]\ri'. 
Fannin,  who  had  formerly  lived  tlnMe,  but  had  lately 
moved  a  way,  so  of  course  no  one  knew  where  I  could 
get  a  guide,  ^'everal  businessmen,  ol  whom  I  asked 
information,  incpiired  at  once  where  1  was  from.  an<l 
on  learning  that  I  was  an  American,  sim])ly  said  "•  I 
don't  know."  and  were,  or  at  least  pi'etended  to  be, 
too  busy  to  talk  with  me.  They  seemed  to  have  no 
use  for  people  from  this  side  of  the  boundary  line, 
and  this  same  ill-feeling  tov.ard  my  Xation  (with  a 
big  N)  was  shown  me  in  other  places,  and  on  various 
occasions,  while  in  the  province.     I  found,  however. 


one  gracious  exception,  m 


New  Westminster,  in  th 


m; 


('IM'FSI\<.S    I\    TIIK   CASCADKS 


■I  :       .,' 


'<ii 


person  ol'  Mr.  C  (t.  iSljijor,  a  iiu'rcliaiit,  wlio,  tlicino- 
iiieiit  I  iiKide  know  11  to  lilm  my  Avish,  replied: 

"  Well,  sir,  the  best  guide  Jiiid  the  best  hunter  in 
British  Columbia  left  Jiere  not  three  minutes  n.uo. 
lie  is  Jin  indiiin  who  lives  on  Douiihiss  L;il\e,  and  I 
think  1  <':iii  ,u('t  him  for  you.  II'  1  can,  youai'elixed 
Tor  a  g-ood  and  sucressful  hunl." 

This  news,  and  the  I'laidv,  manly,  eoi'dial  ,i'"reetin,i^ 
that  came  with  it,  were  sui"j)risin<4'  to  me,  al'ter  the 
treatment  1  had  been  rereivin<i,'.  ^NTr.  Major  invited 
me  into  his  i)rivate  olliee,  g-ave  me  a  chair  by  the  lire, 
and  sent  out  a  messenger  to  h)okJ'or  '"Douglass  Hill," 
tlie  Indian  ol*  whom  lie  had  spoken.  This  important 
l)ersonage  soon  came  in.  Mr.  Major  told  liim  Avhat 
I  wanted,  and  it  took  but  a  lew  minutes  to  make 
a  bargain.  lb»  was  a  solid,  well-built  Indian,  had 
an  intelligent  face,  spoke  I'air  English,  and  Jiad  the 
i-eputation  ol'  being,  as  Mr.  ^Nfajor  Jiad  said,  an  excel- 
lent hunter.  Mr.  >fajor  further  said  he  considered 
Bill  one  of  the  most  Jionest.  truthful  Indians  he  had 
ever  known,  and  that  i  could  trust  him  as  implicitly 
as  I  could  any  white  man  in  the  country. 

This  ari'angemeiit  was  made  on  Saturday  night, 
but  Bill  said  he  could  not  start  on  the  Jiuiit  until 
Wednesday  morning,  as  his  mother  in-law  had  just 
died,  and  he  must  go  and  helj)  to  l)ury  her  on  Tues- 
day. The  funeral  was  to  take  ])lace  on  the  Chiliik- 
weviik  river,  a  tribntarv  of  the  Frazer,  about  iifty 
miles  above  New  Westminster,  and  it  was  arranged 
that  I  should  go  np  on  the  steamer,  and  meet  him  at 
the  mouth  of  llariison  river,  another  tributary 
stream,  on  Wednesday  morning.  We  wei-e  then  to 
go  up  the  Harrison  to  the  hunting  grounds.      I  was 


§ 


AM)    OIIIKU    Iir.\ll\(i    ADVKNITKKS. 


57 


(l«*li^lit<'(l  jit  the  pi'()sp(M't  of  a  siicct'ssrul  liiint,  wltli 
so  ^'ood  a  .u'liidc,  and  cliccrrally  ('(Hisciitcd  lo  w;iil 
tlic  iicccssury  ihwv  days  I'or  The  ivd  man  to  jx-iforni 
tlie  last  sad  rilt'S  ol'  his  tribe  over  the  iciiiains  o! 
the  departed  klouc/nnaii,  but  I  was  doomed  to  dis- 
appointmeut. 


'       il 


1^ 


A  VIEW  ON'  THE  FRAZEU. 
(58) 


''Tlio  first  time  I  Ix'liclil  tlicf,  biautcdu^;  stroani, 

Hiiw  pure,  how  siiiootli,  how  l)r(iail  thy  liosiim  licavt'd; 
"Wliat  icc'liiiiis  luslied  upDii  my  heart!  a  iilcain 
As  of  another  life  my  kiinlling  soul  received." 

I  left  Xew  \Vesliiiiiisrri'  ;it  srvcii  o'clock  Molidav 

I' 

iiioi'iiinu'  on  the  stetnuci'  Adelaide,  I'oi"  llic  jiioiith  of 
IltiiTisoii  rivei',  sixty  miles  up  the  Fra/ci'.  There 
were  over  twenty  Indians  on  Ifoard,  ^uoinu'  up  to  the 

a  of 


mouth  of  the  Chilukwevid^,  to  attend  the  funer 
Bouii'lass  Bill's   deceased   relative.     As    soon 

(.V,l) 


IS 


1 

1  1 


1  ■' 


I. 


ll 


()() 


<  i:ii>i.\(.s  IN   iiiK  <  .\s(  Ain:s 


learned  tlieir  dcsiiiiatioii  I  iii(|iiiiv(l  if  lie  weie 
aiiioiii;"  them,  1)iit  they  said  lie  was  not.  He  had 
come  ahoard  before  av<'  left,  hut  for  some  jvason  had 
(h'cided  to  ,ii(>  oil  aiiotlier  boat  tliat  left  half  an  hour 
ahead  of  the  Adelaide.  The  vovaue  iiroved  inteiisclv 
iuleivstiiiu'.  The  Kiazer  is  from  a  (luarter  to  half  ti 
mile  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  larue  steamers  for  a 
liiiiulred  miles  aboNc  its  mouth.  Tlieivare  jiortioiis 
(»f  the  valley  that  ar(»  fertile,  thickly  settled,  and 
well  cultivated.  The  vallevs  of  some  of  its  ti'ibii- 
taries  are  also  uood  farmini;'  disti'icts.  and  urain, 
fruits,  and  xcu'etablcs  of  various  kinds  ,t;i()W  in 
abiinda  ice.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Chiliikwevuk  I 
saw  line  oeaches  that  had  ^rown  in  the  valley,  with- 
in ten  miles  of  ]>eri)etual  snow.  The  river  became 
very  crooked  as  we  neared  the  mountains  and 
linallv  w«'  entered  tht^  uorue,  or  canon,  wl  "ft'  the 
rocky-faced  mountains  rise,  sheer  from  the  wiiter's 
edue,  to  heiii'hts  of  many  hundreds  of  feet,  and  just 
back. of  them  tower  ,ui'eat  i>eaks,  clad  in  eternal 
snows.  The  little  camera  was  a.uain  l)i'()U,ulil  into 
re(|uisiti()n  and,  as  we  rounded  some  of  these  pic- 
turesque bends  and  traA'ersed  some  of  the  beautiful 
reaches,  F  secured  many  uood  views,  though  the  day 
was  cloudy  and  lowery.  The  boat  being  in  motion, 
I  Avas,  of  course,  comindled  to  make  the  shortest 
l)ossible  ex[)Osures,  and  was,  therefore,  unable  to  get 
lin(>  details  in  the  shadows;  yet  many  of  the  i)riiits 
turiK'd  out  fairly  well. 

We  saw  several  seals  in  the  vWvv  on  the  way  up, 
and  the  captain  informed  me  that  at  certain  seasons 
they  were  quite  plentiful  in  the  Frazer  and  all  the 
larger  streams  in  the  neighborhood.     They  go  ux> 


» 


AM)  oiiii.it  iir.\ri.\(.  .M>\  i;ni'ii:i:s. 


(51 


ilic  FiMZcr  lo  lilt'  1m*;i(1  of  juiviuMlioii  mikI  lie  could 
not,  s:iy  how  much  liirlht'i-.  lie  snid  lh;ir  ou  oiih 
occiisioii  it  J'ciuiilc  sciil  Jiiid  her  nouiiu"  wnc  seen 
MporlillH'  in  the  w;ite|-;ihe;i(l  ol'  the  steiiiiier,  ;ill(l  tllMt 
when  the  vessel  ciiine  wilhiu  al)out  lil'ty  yiirds  they 
(love.  Nothing'  more  was  seen  of  tli«'  piipjiy,  Jind 
the  cMptaiii  thoiiuht  it  must  have  heeu  cauuhl  in 
the  wheel  and  killed,  i'oi'  the  mother  followed  the 
vessel  several  miles,  whiiuuu'.  looking  lonuiuuly, 
2)itirully,  and  beseech inuly  at  the  i»assen<;'eis  and 
crew.  She  would  swim  around  and  around  the 
steauKM',  comini;' close  up,  showini;'  no  j'ear  lor  her 
own  sal'etv,  whatever,  l)Ut  seeminu'  to  beu'  them  to 
give  back  her  l)aby.  She  api»eared  to  have  lost  sight 
of  it  entirelv,  whatever  its  i'ate,  and  to  think  it  had 
l)een  captui'ed  and  taken  on  boaid.  Her  moaning 
and  begging,  her  intense  grief,  wei-e  pitiable  in  the 
extnMue,  and  brought  teai's  to  the  eyes  of  stout, 
l)rawny  men.  Finally  she  seemed  completely 
exhausted  with  anguish  and  her  exeilions  and  gi-ad- 
uallv  sank  out  of  sight.  Mv  inl'oi'inant  said  he 
hoped  never  to  witness  another  such  sight. 

We  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  llari'ison  river  at  six 
o'clock  in  the  evening.  There  is  a  little  Indian  vil- 
lage there  called  by  the  same  name  as  the  river,  and 
Mr.  J.  Barker  keeps  a  trading  i)ost  on  the  reserva- 
tion, he  being  the  oidy  white  man  living  there,  lie 
made  me  welcome  to  the  best  accommodations  his 
bachelor  quarters  ali'orded,  but  said  the  only  slee])- 
ing-room  he  had  was  full,  as  tw^o  friends  I'rom  down 
the  river  were  stopping  with  lum  for  the  night,  and 
that  I  would  have  to  lodge  with  one  of  the  Indian 
families.     He  said  there  was  one  klooclunan  (the 


m 


till 


nmw^ 


(;i:ris[.\(;s  ix  '!!ik  cax.ades 


!  i 


li 


1     ffi    11 


Chinook  woid  Inr  s([iia\v)  who  w;is  ;i  reniarkalily" 
neat,  ch'Miily  liousekceiiHi',  wlio  liad  n  spare  room, 
and  \vlio  iisiiallv  kfpt  ativ  slranuvrs  that  Avislied  to 
sto])  (iV(M'  niiiht  []].  tilt'  villauv.  While  we  wei-e  tallv- 
iiiu,' the  s(|ua\v  in  (jiicsilon  caiiK'  in  and  Nfr.  Bai'ker 
.said  to  lier: 

'vMai'v,  vaii-lvwa  lioston  man  tik-rli  moo-sum 
nu'-.si-ka  liousc  j)olakdf'."  '  Heip  is  an  Amci'ican 
wlio  would  like  to  sleep  iii  youi-  hoiist^  to-night.; 
iV)  wiiich  she  replied: 

'•  Yukd\.;i  liy-ak*'  i  he  '-an  comum.  ana  the  har.uain 
was  closed. 

I  lemained  at  the  stoi»-  and  talked  witli  Mr. 
Barker  and  his  friends  ni-til  ten  o'clock,  when  lie 
took  a  lanlern  and  piloted  me  over  to  the  Indian 
ranclierie.  wliere  1  was  to  1  xlu'*'.  1  took  my  slee[(ing- 
l)a,i;'  with  me  and  thanked  my  stai's  that  I  did.  for 
notwithstandinu'  the  assurances  uiven  me  hy  o<)()d 
Mr.  Barker  that  the  Indian  woman  was  as  uood  ii 
housekeeper  as  the  average  white  woman.  I  was 
afraid  of  vermin.  I  have  nevej-  known  an  Indian  to 
he  witliout  the  heniipterons  little  insect.  Pediculus 
i/ihincinis)  (-(ipiffs.  Fossil )ly  theie  may  be  some 
Indians  who  do  not  Avear  them;  I  simply  say  T  have 
never  had  the  pleasure  ol:'  knowinu'  one,  and  I  have 
known  ;i  ii'reat  ma UA',  too.  T  seriously  doubt  if  one 
has  ever  vet  livinl  manv  davs  at  a  time  devoid  of  the 
companionshi])  of  these  pestiierons  little  creatures. 
In  fact,  an  Lilian  arid  a  louse  are  natural  allies — 
boon  com]>anion  and  are  as  inseparable  as  the 
boarding-house  ]>ed  and  the  bedbug.  The  led  man 
is  so  inni'ed  to  the  ravages  of  his  ])arasitic  com- 
panion,   so     accustomed     to     have     him     I'ustling 


AM)  (triiKU  mxTiN*;  aovkxi  ii:i:s. 


63 


around  on  liis  person  and  foniiring  for  i;rul),  tluit  he 
pays  little  or  no  attention  to  the  insect,  and  seems 
hiirdly  to  I'eel  its  bite. 

Y')ii  will  i-arely  see  an  Indian  seratrh  his  head  or, 
in  I'ju't,  any  jjortion  of  his  person,  as  a  white  man 
does  when  he  gets  a  hite.  Lo  <i'ives  forth  no  outward 
siu'ii  that  he  is  thiekly  setth'd.  and  it  is  only  when 
he  sits  or  lies  down  in  tlie  hot  sun  that  the  inhab- 
itants of  his  hair  and  clothinu"  eome  to  the  front; 
then  you  may  see  them  crawling"  about  like  roaches 
in  a  hotel  kitchen.  Or,  when  he  has  lain  down  on  a 
board,  or  your  tent  canvas,  or  any  light-colored  sub- 
stance and  got  np  and  gone  away,  leaving  some  of 
his  neigii})ors  behind,  then  you  know  he  is — like 
others  of  his  race — the  home  of  a  large  colony  of 
ins(M*ts. 

When  Marv  and  hei  husl)and,  (reori^e,  saw  mv 
roll  of  bedding,  which  they  sui^jmsed  to  l)e  simply 
blankets,  they  protested  to  Mr.  Barker  that  I  would 
not  neel  them,  that  there  was  '•  liy-iu  mitdite  pa- 
se-se  "  (plenty  of  covering  on  the  bed).  1  told  them, 
however,  tl^'it  I  could  sleep  l)etter  in  my  own 
blankets  and  preferred  to  use  them.  I  took  the 
bundle  into  my  room,  spread  the  sleeping-bag  on 
the  l)ed  and  crawled  into  it.  The  outer  covering  of 
the  bag  being  of  thick,  hard  canvas,  I  hojjed  it 
woidd  i)rove  an  ettVctual  barri-it-r  against  the 
assaults  of  the  vermin,  and  that  they  might  not  find 
the  portal  by  which  I  entered,  and  so  it  ])roved. 

George  and  Mary  live  in  a  veiy  well-built,  comfort- 
able, one-stor^  frame  cottage,  divided  into  two  I'ooms; 
the  kitchen,  dining-room,  parlor  and  family  sleeping- 
room  all  in  one,    and  the  spare  room  being  the  other. 


:(       • 


P 


it  1 


M 


i      ! 


04. 


(•niI>I.\(.-<    I.\    'IIIK   CASCADES 


Th(^  liousc  ]i;is  foiii'  windows  ;iiul  one  door,  asliingle 
roof  and  a  hoard  llooi-.  Tlicv  liav(?  a  cookinn'-stov*^, 
sevei-al  cliairs,  i\  tal)l('.  ('Uj)l>oard.  etc.  The  Ix'dstcad 
on  whicli  1  slept,  was  lioiueinade,  lait  neat  and  siih- 
stantial.     It  was  furnished  witli  a  white  cotton  tielv, 


(iKOIiCiK  AM)  MAi;V. 

filled  with  straw,  feather  pilh)ws,  severalelean-look- 
ing  blankets,  and  a  ])air  of  moderately  eh^an  cotton 
sheets.  I  have  slept  in  much  worse-lookirig  heds 
in  hotels  kept  by  white  })eoph'. 

This  Indian  village,  Ilai'rison  river,  or  Skowlitz, 
as  the  Indians  call  both  the  river  and  the  village,  is 
composed  of  about  twenty  families,  living  in  houses 


|. 


ii' ■ 


|i 


AM)    <»IHKK    IM\'l'r\(;    .\I)\  l.NIIIIKS. 


().■) 


()i'al)()iit  thcsMMK'chiss  !iii(l  of  lilt'  s:mH\i;viicrn]  dcsiu'ii 
as  tlie  one  (U'sciihcd.  altli()ii<;ii  sonu^  arc  sliulilly 
larger  and  hettei',  while  otlicts  are  not  quite  so  good. 
All  liave  been  built  by  white  caipeiitei-s,  oi-  th«' 
greater  i)art  of  the  work  was  done  by  them,  and  the 
lumber  and  other  materials  were  manni'actured  1)V 
wliite  men.  None  of  the  dwellings  haw  ever  been 
painted  inside  or  out,  but  there  is  a  n  'at  mission 
church  in  the  village  that  has  been  honcj-ed  with  a. 
coat  of  white  paint.  There  are  a  i'ew  log  shacks 
standinu"  m-ar,  that  look  verv  much  as  if  thev  had 
been  built  bv  native  industry.  The  frame  houses,  I 
am  informed,  were  erected  by  the  CTOVcnment  and 
the  church  by  the  Catholic  Missionary  Society. 


1^ 


I 


It 


r 


I  I  1^ 


CHAPTER   \ 


1. 


as  not  coiiipelled  to  eat  with  (leoruo  and 
■ '  Marv.  i'oi'  Mr.  Barker  had  kindlv  invited 
me  to  breakfast  with  him,  and  when  I 
reached  his  store,  at  the  brealvl'ast  liour 
in  the  morninf^',  I  i'otind  a  neat  invitinu- 
lookini;-  table  in  tlie  room  *  ^ck  of  the 
store,  h)aded  witli  broiled  ham,  l)aked 
j)otatoes,  good  bread  and  biittei",  a  pot  of 
steaming  cofYee.  etc.\  all  of  which  we 
enjoyed  intensely.  Mr.  Baiker  infoi-m* d 
me  there  was  a  clnster  of  hot  springs  t"!i  mr!'..s  np 
the  river,  at  the  foot  of  Harrison  Laivt-.  tlie  sonrf  >>  of 
Harrison  river,  near  which  a  laige  hotel  had  lately 
been  l)nilt.  Vpcu  iucpnry  as  to  a  means  of  goriing 
11  J)  there.  1  learned  that  iie  liad  <ni;i|(<ye(l  a  cou])le 
of  Indians  t(>  take  some  freight  np  that  morning  in 
a  canoe,  ari^i  thar  !  could  probaoly  sccuih^  a  ])assage 
with  thcni.  As  U;!.rison  ijake.  oi' rather  the  monnt- 
ains  siiri'oundiiig  i!,  weie  the  hunting-grounds 
;v!iich  Douglass  Hill  had  selected,  and  as  we  would 
iiave  to  p;iss  these  hot  s})rings  en  route.  I  decided 
to  go  tli^M'  and  wail  lor  him.  1  therefore  ari'aiiged 
with  Ha.ker  to  send  hiui  up  to  the  springs,  when  he 
should  call  for  lue  at  the  store,  and  took  passage 
in  the  freight  canoe. 

The  Hari'ison  riv(M'  is  a  huge  stream  that  cuts  its 
way  through  high,  rugge(l  mountains,  and  the  water 


AND   OTIIKIJ   JU'NTIXCi    ADVJN'Tl' ItES. 


67 


has  a  pronounced  milky  tinge  imparted  b^  the  bin- 
ders I'l'oni  which  its  IV'edei's  come,  awav  back  in  the 
Cascades.  It  is  a  famous  sabnon  sti'eam,  and  thou- 
sands of  tliese  nobh^  fisjies,  of  i;  mmoth  size,  that 
had  lately  gone  u})  the  river  .ind  into  the  small 
creeks  to  spawn,  having  di<  d  from  disease,  or  hav- 
ing been  killed  in  tlie  teri'ible  rai)ids  they  had  to 
encounter,  were  lying  dead  on  every  sand  ))ar, 
lodged  against  every  stick  of  diiftwood,  or  were 
slowly  tloatiuft'  iu  the  'urrent.  Their  carcasses  lined 
theshor(>ali  along  the  lower  portion  oL'  the  river, 
and  th*^  liogs,  of  ^vhich  the  Indians  have  large  num- 
bjrs,  were  feasting  on  the  putrid  masses  Jis  vora- 
.  iouslv  as  if  tliev  had  been  eai's  of  new,  swet4  corn. 
The  stench  emitted  l>v  these  festerinu,'  bodies  was 
nauseating  in  the  extreme;  and  the  water,  ordinarly 
so  pure  and  palatable,  was  now  totally  unlit  for  use. 
I  counted  over  one  hundred  of  these  dead  iislies  on  a 
single  sand  l)ar  of  less  than  hall'  an  acre  in  extent. 
Cruising  anud  such  surioundings  was  anything  ))ut 
pleasant,  and  I  was  glad  the  current  was  slow  here 
so  that,  though  going  up  stream,  we  were  able  to 
make  good  2)r()gress,  and  soon  got  away  from  this 
nauseating  sight. 

About  a  nule  above  the  village  we  rounded  a  bend 
in  the  river,  whei<>  it  spread  out  to  nearly  a  (piartf  r 
of  a  mile  in  width,  and  on  a  sand  bar  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream,  sat  a  liock  of  geese.  I  picked  up  my 
ritle  and  took  a  shot  at  them,  but  the  ball  cut  a  ditch 
in  the  water  nearly  lifty  yards  this  si(h'.  and  went 
singing  over  their  heads  into  the  woods  beyond. 
They  did  not  seem  (o  enjoy  such  music,  and  taking 
wing  started  for  some  safer feetling-ground,  carrying 


i  1 


IM 


''  if 


i 


H 


-5 
i 


■1 


(68) 


AM)  oriiKK  iir\iiN(;  advkn  i  ikks. 


m 


> 

'A 


c 


on  a  lively  coiiversutioii  in  <i()()s»'  Latin.  |>r()l)al>]y 
about  any  I'ool  who  would  ti'V  to  kill  ucesc  at  that 
distance.  T  turned  loose  on  them  auain,  and  inahout 
a  second  after  iudlin,L''tlietiiii',uerone  of  them  stvmed 
to  explode,  as  ii'  hit  by  a  dynamite  bond).  Foi-  a  lew 
seconds  the  air  was  full  of  fragments  of  <;(>ose.  v.nicli 
rained  (h)wn  into  the  water  like  a  shower  of  autumn 
leaves.  My  red  companions  enjoyed  the  I'esult  of  this 
shot  hugely,  and  a  canoe  load  ol'  Indians  from  up 
river,  who  were  passing  at  the  tim<',  set  up  a  regidar 
war  whoop.  We  pulled  over  and  got  what  was  left  of 
the  goose,  and  found  that  my  expi'ess  bullet  had 
carried  away  all  his  stern  rigging,  his  rudder,  one 
of  his  paddles,  and  a  considerable  portion  of  his 
hidl.  The  water  was  covered  with  Iragments  of  sail, 
■|)rovisions  of  various  kinds,  and  sundry  l)its of  cargo 
and  hull.  Charlie  picked  up  so  much  of  the  wreck 
as  hung  tou'ether.  and  said  in  his  broken,  laconic 
English: 

"  Dat  no  good  goose  uiin.  Shoot  him  too  much 
away." 

There  were  ])lenty  ot  ducks,  coots,  grebes,  and 
gulls  on  the  rivei'.  and  I  had  line  sport  with  them 
whenever  1  cared  to  shoot. 

A  mile  above  where  1  killed  the  goose  we  entered 
a  h)ng  reach  of  shoal  rai)ids.  where  all  the  brawn 
and  skill  of  the  Tndians  were  reipured  to  stem  the 
powerful  current  and  the  immense  volume  of  water. 
The  rapids  are  over  a  nnle  loim',  and  it  took  us  nearl  v 
two  hours  to  I'each  their  head.  As  soon  as  we  were 
well  into  them  we  came  among  large  numbers  of  live, 
healthy  sahnon.  Manv  of  them  were  runniiiL!,-  (h)wn 
the  stream,  some  up.  Avhile  others  seemed  not  to  l)e 


III 


nw 


■  I 


CO) 


I- 


11      " 


AM)  (iiiiKii  iMNiiNct  Ai>vi:\i'ii:i:s. 


1 


fop 

i 


u 

t 
c: 

(/. 
p. 

< 


114 


»¥• 


g'oing  iinywlierf  in  pii'ticiiliii',  l)iit  just  loMlin*'' 
ju'omul,  «'nj()yin,u:  tlieinselvcs.  Tlu'V  Wi'W.  wild,  but, 
owin.u,'  lo  the  wiittT  beinu'  so  r()u<;ii  and  I'apid,  we 
tVeciucntiy  ^ot  witiiiii  two  or  thn'H  ['vol  of  tiicm 
before  they  saw  us,  and  tiie  Indians  killed  two  large 
ont^s  with  their  eanoe  poles.  Occasionally  w(»  would 
cornel'  a  whole  school  of  them  in  soni<»  little  i)ocket, 
where  tlie  water  was  so  shallow  that  theirdorsal  fins 
would  stick  out,  and  whei'e  there  Avas  no  exit  l)nt  by 
passing  dose  to  the  canoe.  When  alarmed  they 
wonld  cavort  around  like  a  herd  of  wild  nmstangs 
in  a.  cori'al,  nntil  thev  would  churn  the  water  into  a 
foam;  then,  <'mboldened  l)y  their  peril,  they  wonld 
thish  out  past  ns  with  the  velocity  of  an  arrow. 
They  were  doinga  great  dealof  jumi)ing;  freqnently 
a  large  lisli,  two  oi'  three  feet  long,  would  start  across 
the  stream,  and  make  four  or  hve  long,  liigh  h^ai)s 
out  of  the  water,  in  i'a[)id  succession,  only  remain- 
ing in  tlie  Avater  long  enough  after  each  Juuip  to  gain 
niomentum  for  the  next.  I  asked  Charlie  why  they 
were  doing  tins,  if  they  were  sick,  or  if  something 
was  l)iting  them. 

''No,"  he  said.  "Plav.  All  snnie  di'unk — raise 
hell!" 

These  salmon  run  uj)  the  rivers  and  creeks  to 
deposit  their  spawn,  and  seem  ])osscssed  of  an  insane 
desii'e  to  get  as  fai'  uj)  into  the  small  bi'ooks  as  they 
possibly  can.  They  frecpieiitly  i)ursue  their  mad 
course  lip  over  l)oiling,  foaming,  roarin.g  rai)i(ls,  and 
abi'upt,  pei-[)endicnlai'  falls,  whei'e  it  wonld  seem 
impossible  for  any  living  ciealure  to  go— regai'dless 
of  their  own  safety  or  comfort.    Thev  are  often  found 

*  « 

in  dense  schools  in  little  creeks  away  np  near  their 


72 


<i:iI>IN(.S    IN    'IIIK    CASCADKS 


sources,  wild*' tlicrc  is  not  ualci'  rnoimli  to  cover 
their  l)o(li('s,  Mild  \vImm«'  tiinv  Ix'coiiu' jiii  e;is\- iirev  to 
mini,  or  lo  wild  Ix'iists.  In  siicii  cases,  liiditins  kill 
tlit'iM  with  six'.-irs  Mild  sliMTp  sticks,  or  even  cMtcli  mikI 
throw  them  out  with  their  liMiids. 

Or  it'  tht'ii'  jounicyiiius  tMke  them  Minoiiu-  I'Mriiis  oi- 
rMUciies,  MS  is  often  the  cMse,  the  i»eoi>le  throw  them 
out  on  the  l)Miiks  with  ])itcli-l'orks,  nnd  nl'ter supply- 
in^' their  household  necessities,  tliey  CMl't  the  nohle 
lish  MWMV  and  feed  them  to  their  ]i(\i;s,  or  even  use 
them  to  Tei'tilize  tlieii-  lields.  I  hMve  .seen  smIiiioii 
wedded  into  some  of  the  siumII  streams  until  you  could 
nlmost  Avalk  on  tliem.  The  l)Mnks  of  nuiiiy  creeks, 
iar  np  in  the  foot-hills,  are  almost  wholly  composed 
of  the  hones  of  ^  Imoii.  In  travelin<i,"  throuuh  (U'lise 
woods  1  liave  ofieii  heai'd,  at  some  distance  ahead, 
a  Joiid  splashiiiii,'  and  uvneral  commotion  in  water, 
as  if  of  a,  dozen  small  boys  in  bathinu'.  This  would, 
l)eihaps,  be  the  first  intimation  1  liad  that  J  was  near 
water,  and,  on  ap[)i()achiiii;'  the  source  of  tlie  noise, 
I  have  found  it  to  have  been  made  bv  a  scliool  of 
these  lordly  salmon,  wedded  into  one  of  the  little 
streams,  thrashinu'  the  creek  into  suds  in  theii*  efforts 
to  ^'et  to  its  head. 

After  depositinu' their  spawn  the  poor  creatures, 
already  Jialf  dead  from  l)ruises  and  exhaustion 
incurred  in  their  i)ei'ilous  voya,u'e  up  stream,  be,i;in  to 
drift  down.  But  how  different,  now,  from  thebriuht, 
silvery  ci'eatures  that  once  darved  like  rays  of  liviii_ii,' 
light  throiiiih  the  sea.  I'liable  to  control  their  move- 
ments in  the  descent,  even  as  well  as  in  the  ascent, 
thev  drift  at  the  cruel  niercv  of  the  stream.  They 
are  driven  against  rouiili  bowlders,  submerged  logs 


AM)  oiiiKi:  iirNi!N(i  .\i)\  I.N  rruK 


73 


iind  !siiai;'s,  or  llii'oii.uh  i'a,ulii;r  i!ii)i<ls  Ity  llic  I'liiy  ot' 
the  tonvnr.  until  liiiiidi^'ds,  Vfs  t liousaiuls.  of  ilinn 
are  killed  oiitri;^lit.  and  tlioiisaiids  moic  dit-  liom 
sht'er  cxliaiistioii. 

]  have  SHt'ii  siiliiioii  with  llicii' iioscs  broken  and 
torn  oil";  othcis  with  a  lo\v<'r  jaw  lorn  a\v;iy;  soiiir 
with  si(h's,  ));i('ks,  oi'  bcllit's  bruised  ;ind  l)hM'dini:'; 
otliei's  with  tht'ir  tails  whipjxMl  and  splii  into  .sliiv(h. 
and  still  othcis  with  their  entrails  torn  out  bv 
snau's.  In  this  sad  oliuht  tliev  are  beset  at  ♦nerv 
turn  in  the  river  by  their  natnial  enemies.  ]>ears, 
('on;^'ars.  minks,  wild  cats,  lishers,  ea,ules.  hawks, 
and  worst  and  most  destiuctive  ol*  all.   men,  await 


them     evervw 


heri 


and 


If 


w 


onld     1 


)e    stranii'e 


indeed,  it'  one  in  each  thousand  that  left  the  salt 
ater  should  live  to  return.     The  h-w  that  do  so. 


w 

are,  of  course,  scj  weak  that  they  fall  an  easy  jiicy 
to  the  seals,  shai'ks.  and  other  enendes,  that  wait 
with  open  mouths  to  enuulf  them.  So,  all  the  leap- 
in,u',  rushin^n' multitude  that  entered  the  river  a  few 
months  a.u'o,  liave,  ere  this,  o-one  to  their  doom,  but 
tlieir  seed  is  planted  in  the  iry  bi-ook,  far  away  in 
the  mount, dns,  and  theii'  younu  will  soon  come  loith 
to  take  the  place  oi"  the  i)arents  that  hav*^  ])assed 
away.  The  instinct  of  re^jrodnction  must,  indeed, 
be  an  absorbing  passion  in  ]Hun'  dumb  cr«'atures. 
wlieli  tliey  will  thus  saciilice  life  in  the  etl'oit  t() 
deposit  their  ova  where  the  oil's] )]'iiiu>  nuiy  i^.^t  be 
brouu'ht  into  being. 


!' 


IP 


:  ! 


7i 


<  nrFSF\(;s    IV   'IHK  CAsCADT.S 


J      i 


o 

:^ 
3 

a 

CO 

a 

'A 


'A 

J? 

■Ji 

■J 


y, 


\  K  lilt'  r:i|»i(ls  we  Imd  n  lovely  i'<'iU'li 

river,    ridiii   M  (inaitt'i'  to    lijill"   :i 

Ic   wide,  wiih   no    jM-rccptihl*'   cur- 


ll.      hlllK'llrd  li 


>iir  iiiiilcd  t'lioits, 
^oiir  liuht  ('t'diii'  ciiiUH'  shot  over  the 
wjitci'  lis  liuhtly  Mild  niinost  iis 
swiftly  MS  the  liiills  m1)ov»'  us  sped 
:-  tlir()U;''li  the  Mir.  I  look  one  of  the 
..poles  Mild  used  it  while  the  III- 
^,,„,^  .J^^  diMUs  plied  their  pMddles,  mikI  Un- 
a  distMiire  of  iieMily  two  miles  the  (lei)th  of 
water  did  not  vMiy  two  inches  IVoin  Toui'Mnd  m  IimH" 
I'eet.  The  bottom  WMs  coniiiosed  of  m  liMid,  white 
sMud,  into  which  the  pole,  with  my  weii>ht  on  it, 
sunk  less  tliMii  Mil  inch;  in  fMct,  the  current  is  so 
slight,  the  widtliof  the  river  so  gicMt,  Miid  the  gen- 
ei'Ml  chaJ'Mcter  of  the  WMter  such,  that  it  might  all  be 
termed  a  iMke  above  the  I'mIIs;  though  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  as  designated  on  the  map.  has  a  still 
greater  widening  live  miles  above  the  head  of  the 
falls. 

Abrupt  basaltic  walls.  :)()()  to  l.ooo  feet  high  and 
nearly  ])ei'}»endicular.  lise  from  the  water's  edge 
on  either  side.  On  the  more  sloiting  fares  of 
these,  vegetation  has  obtained  root-room,  little 
bunches  of  soil  have  formed,  and  various  ever- 
greens, alders,  water  hazels,  etc.,  grow  vigorously. 


i  i 


(•IIAPTKI!    VIM. 


il  ti  I? 


^  1 1 

1 4   I       ■''      *1 


,.    If 


(76) 


AND  (cniKK  ii(NiiX(i    \i)Vi;Niri;i;s. 


77 


I 


'A 

o 


<1 


ILilf  a  foot  of  SHOW  liad  lately  rallcii  on  the  t()i)S  of 
these  nioiiiitains.  and  a  warm,  soiithwesr  wind  and 
the  l)i'i,i;ht  sun  were  now  sending  it  down  into  the 
river  in  numerous  idun.uini;-  streams  orciystal  iluid. 
For  ihousandsot^vears  these  miniature  torrents  have, 
at  frequent  intervals,  tu?nltled  down  here,  and  in  all 
that  time  have  worn  hut  sli<>ht  notches  in  the  rocky 
walls. 

Shrubs  have  ixrown  up  alonu-  and  over  these 
small  waterways,  and  as  the  little  I'ivulets  come 
coursing  down,  dod;Li,ing  hitherand  rliithei-  under  over- 
hanging clumps  of  green  foliage,  leaping  from  crag 
to  crag  and  curving  from  right  to  left  and  frotn  left 
to  right,  around  and  among  frowning  projections  of 
invulnerable  I'ock.  glinting  and  sparkling  in  the  sun- 
light, they  remind  oneof  silvery  satin  ribbons,  tossed 
by  a  summer  l)reeze,  among  the  l)rown  tresses  of 
some  winsome  maiden.  1  took  several  views  ol'  these 
little  waterfalls,  but  their  transcendent  beauty  can 
not  be  intelligently  expressed  on  a  little  four-by-live 
silver  print. 

Several  larger  streams  also  ])nt  into  the  IIarris(m, 
that  come  from  remote  fastnesses,  and  seem  to  carve 
their  way  through  great  mountains  of  granite.  Their 
shores  are  lined  with  dense  growths  (jf  conifers,  and 
afford  choice  retrei.  :s  for  deer,  bears,  and  other  wild 
animals. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  rounded  a 
high  jioint  of  rocks  that  jutted  out  into  the  rivei', 
and  another  beautiful  pictnre — another  surprise,  in 


this   land   of  surprises — lay   before    u^ 


Harrison 


Lake,  nestling  among  snowy  peaks  and  dotted  with 
basaltic  islands,  rellected  in  its  peaceful  depths  the 


I 


:  Ij 


t 


tf< 


CKFTslNCiS    [V   'I'HK   (  ASCADKS 


I 


!1  I 


.siin'oaiiditiii-  inoiiiiTaiiis  .is  clpaily  as  tlioniili  its 
])hi('i(l  siiii'aci  had  been  coveivd  with  (|ui('ksilve]'. 
This  hike  is  about  i'ortv  miles  loiiii'  is  fed  ]>v  tlie 
LiUooet  river  and  luniKM-ons  smaller  streams.  Silver 
<*reek.  which  fomes  in  ori  the  west  side,  twenty  miles 
north  'if  the  hot  spnn.us.  is  a  beautifid  mountain 
stream  ol'  <'onsidei'able  size.  A  (jiiarter  of  a  mile 
above  its  mouth,  it  makes  a  perpendiculai'  fall  of 
over  sixty  feet.  It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  falls 
in  the  eountry.  Near  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  in 
fidl  view  from  the  spriu,us.  old  Mount  Dou.uiass,  clad 
in  ])erpetnal  snow  and  .ulacial  ice,  towei's  into  the 
blue  sky  until  its  brilliancy  almost  dazzles  one's 
eyes.  Though  forty  miles  away,  one  who  did  not 
know  would  estimate  the  distance'  at  not  more  th;;  ■ 
live,  so  cleai'ly  are  all  the  details  of  the  grand  picture 
shown,  it  is  said  that  Irom  the glaciei's  on  this  peak 
c.oun  the  sti'eams  whose  waters  give  their  peculiar 
mdkv  cast  to  llaii-ison  Lake  and  TTai'i'ison  river, 
Xe;  ;;he  base  of  Mount  Douglass  is  an  Indian  village 
of  the  same  name,  and  the  Hudson  Bav  Fur  Com- 

« 

pany  foi'.uerly  liad  a  trading  i)ost  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, wliiclilhey  called  Fort  Douglass.  This  Indian 
viUage  is  the  iivMne  of  my  prosi)ective  guide,  and 
fi'om  it  he  has  ado  .ted  his  unpoetic  cognomen. 

Half  a  nule  to  the  right  of  where  we  entered  the 
lake,  the  famous  hot  s])rings.  already  mentiom'd,  l)oil 
out  from  under  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  and  discharge 
thei]'  steaming  fluid  into  the  lake.  The  cui'ati\e 
]Knv<T  of  these  waters  has  been  known  to  theiiatives 
for  ages  ])ast,  and  the  sick  have  come  from  all  direc- 
tions, and  fiom  villaues  mtinv  miles  aw.iv.  to 
bathe  in  the  waters  and  be  healed.     All  about  the 


i 


!HI 


AXI)    OTIIEIl    in'\TI\(r    .VDVK.MI'IIK 


70 


plnce  are  reiimius  oJ'  Indian  cncainitnients,  nu'dicine 
lodges,  etc.  The  tribes  in  this  vicinity  ai"e  gi'catly 
exei'cised  over  the  I'act  of  the  wliite  man  having 
hitely  asserted  OAvnei'slii])  of  iheh'  gi'eat  saiiitarinni, 
and  having  assumed  its  control.  i\fr.  J,  II.  P>ro\vn 
lias  erected  over  the  springs  a  large  bathdiouse,  aiid 
near  that  II  conmiodious  hotel.  He  has  cut  a  road 
throngh  a  jkiss  in  the  mountains  to  Agassiz  station, 
on  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  live  jniles  distant, 
so  tlmt  the  spiings  may  now  he  easily  reached  by 
invalids  wishing  to  test  their  curative  ])rojierties. 
Soon  after  my  ari'ival  at  the  s[)rings,  T  climbed  the 
mountain  to  the  east  of  the  hotel,  and  passed  the 
time  pleasantly,  until  sunset,  viewing  the  beautiful 
scenery  in  the  neighl)orhood. 

On  the  following  morning  I  took  a  boat  and  rowed 
u[)  the  east  shore  of  the  lake,  in  h()[)e  of  gettinga  sliot 
at  a  deer,  l)Ut  though  I  saw  plenty  of  fresh  signs  all 
along  the  shore  no  game  was  visible.  1  spent  the 
afternoon  looking  anxioush  for  mv  promised  unide, 
but  he  came  not.  I  agnin  amused  mvself.  however, 
taking  views  of  the  scenery,  but  found  on  develop- 
ing the  negatives  that  T  had  not  been  eminently  suc- 
cessful with  either  Mount  Douglass  or  MountChiam. 
Snowy  mountains  are  about  the  most  dilficult  objects 
in  all  nature  to])hotogi'aph,  es])i'<'i;djy  if  you  attemjtt 
to  include  anything  beside  the  snowy  jjcaks  in  the 
l)icture  :  for  they  are  s(»  intensely  w  hite.  ami  the  sky 
or  even  clomls  that  foiin  the  background  are  so  light 
andaft'ord  so  slight  conti'ast,  that  it  is  next  to  impossi- 
l)le  to  get  good  sharp  i)ictures  of  them.  The  landscape 
about  the  mountains  issuretooll'ersomedark  objects, 
perhaps  dee[)  shadows,  and  even  the  mountain  itself 


!    *■ 


i    i' 


hi 


i     tl 


■"^  ; ' 


M. 


('i;risi.\(;s  i\  TiiK  CASCADES 


I 

if. 


11 


I 


neai'lv  ;il\v;ivs  lias  bare  rocks  and  dark,  (•loomv  can- 
oils,  aiidto^uct  rliesc  and  tlicdazzlini;' wliitciiess  of  the 
snow  and  ice  on  the  same  plate  is  decidedly  diflicult. 
(>r  coiii'scwc  s<'(^  many  lint' photographs  of  snow-cov- 
ered mountains,  hut  if  taken  with  a  clear  sky  or  with 
light  clouds  for  background,  there  is  generally  more 
or  less  reloiiching  necessary,  and  more  or  less  doctor- 
ing in  i»rinting.  with  tissue  pa])er,  glass  screens,  etc., 
in  order  to  obtain  the  resnlts  we  see  in  the  jmnts.  I 
made  some  fair  views  of  both  these  peaks,  but  not 
such  as  an  cnthnsiastic  amateui' might  Avish.  Of  the 
lower  mountains,  where  jit  that  time  tliere  was  no 
snow,  of  the  lake,  the  islands,  etc.,  1  got  very  sat- 
isfactory i)ictui'es.  I  went  up  the  road,  toward  the 
lailway  station,  a  ndle  or  moi'e,  where  it  ])asses 
ihrongh  one  of  those  grand  I'orests  for  which  this 
countrv  is  so  Tamous,  where — 

'■  Those  irrccii  robed  senators  of  niii^hty  woods 
Dream,  and  so  ilreaiu  all  in,'_rlil  witlioiit  a  >tir." 

There  I  made  views  of  some  of  the  giant  cedars,  the 
dense  moss-hung  jungles,  the  great  hr  trees,  etc.  In 
these  (htrk,  denselv-shaded  woods  I  had  lo  take  olt 
the  Hying  shutter  and  make  time  exjjosures.  1  gave 
three  to  live  seconds  to  each  i)late.  In  the  prints 
the  trees  and  othei-  objects  nearest  to  the  lens  are  of 
coui'se  over-exi)()sed,  but  the  details  in  the  shadows 
and  objects  in  the  extreme  dislance  are  clearlv  and 
heautifuily  brought  out.  Foi-  these  time  exposures 
I  jtiaced  the  camera  on  some  convenient  log,  stump, 
or  stone,  in  lieu  of  a  tripod.  In  two  instances  1  seated 
the  iear  end  of  the  instrument  on  the  ground,  with 
the  lens  bearing  up  throngh  the  t(-ps  of  the  trees. 
The  whitened  trunk  and  broken,  straggling  ai'ms  of 


A\r>  oriiKU  mxiixt;  Ai)vi;\irin> 


SI 


Olio  ^Tent  old  dead  lir— oik'  lliat  lias  ilourislicd  in 
this  rich  soil  and  drawn  susteiianrc  I'loiii  the  moist, 
ozoiiedaden  aliiiosi)hei'e  of  tlicsc  mountains  I'oiliun- 
dreds  of  yciiis.  hut  has  lived  oni  his  linn?  and  is  now 
goin.ij,'  tli(^  way  oi'  all  ihinu's  <'ai'11ily — forms  the  suh- 
ject  of  one  of  the  best  and  most  interest in,i;'  pictures 
of  the  wliole  series.  Tlie  tops  of  several  otlier  trees 
— hircli,  maple,  etc.,  that  stood  near  the  lir— are  also 
shown  in  the  i)icture.  It  can  best  be  seenandai)i)re- 
<'iated  by  holding'  it  above  your  head,  looking'  up  at 
it,  and  imaf-iniiii;-  yourself  tiiere  in  the  forest.  looU- 
ing  np  throuii'li  tlie  tops  of  the  gumt  trees  into  the 
blue  ethereal  dome  of  heaven. 


1)1 


"0 


,.'ri 
■  ? 


^f 


CHAPTER  IX. 


5    ;k   It 


t    > 


«!    3 


It 


morniiii;,'  I  got  ii[)  t'arly  to  look  for  Doug- 
'  lass  Bill,  thiukiii.u'  mid  lio[»iiiy  he  might 
Imve  landed  dining  the  night,  but  no  one 
had  seen  him  and  there  was  no  strange 
canoe  in  the  hai'l)oi'.  After  breakfast, 
in  order  to  kill  time,  I  ('Uml)e(l  tiie 
mountain  east  of  the  hotel  to  a  height  of 
about  ;i  thous.'ind  I'eet.  It  is  heavily 
tiuibered,  and  I  found  plenty  of  fresh 
deer-signs  within  plain  sound  of  the 
hammers  wielded  by  the  carpenters  at  work  on  the 
hotel,  but  failed  to  get  a  shot.  I  returned  at 
eleven  o'clock,  but  Bill  had  not  yet  shown  up. 
Three  other  Indians  were  there,  however,  with 
three  deer  in  tli<'ir  canoe,  which  they  had  killed 
oi:  tile  opi)osite  side  of  the  lake  the  day  before.  I 
now  concluded  that  Mr.  Major  s  coniidence  in  Bill 
was  misplaced ;  that  he  was  not  going  to  keep  his 
conti'act,  and  was,  in  short,  as  treacherous,  as  unre- 
liable, and  as  corsunmiate  ;i  liar  as  other  Indians; 
so  I  entered  into  negotiations  with  these  thive  Indi- 
ans to  get  one  or  two  of  them  to  u'o  with  me.  Ihil  thev 
had  planned  a  ti'ip  to  New  Westuiinster,  to  sell  theii' 
venison,  and  I  could  not  induce  any  one  of  them  to 
go,  though  I  olfered  big  wages,  and  a  pr^^mium  on 
each  head  of  game  1  might  kill,  besides.  'I'hey  said 
that  if  I  wished  they  would  take  me  to  their  village — 

(82) 


)| 


1 


i 


AM)    (ClIIKU    lirNTIN(i    A  DV  KNIT  IIKS, 


fe3 


which  is  live  niUes  down  the  i'iv«'r — iind  that  tiiere 
were  several  good  goat  liiiuters  tiiere  ^vllonl  I  could 
get.  I  accepted  their  ofTer  of  transportation,  stejtped 
into  the  canoe,  and  we  i)ulled  out.  As  we  entei'ed 
the  shoal  water  in  the  river  I  askinl  for  a  ])()le,  and 
ini[)elled  hy  it  and  the  three  i)addles  we  sjx'd  down 
the  stream  at  a  iai)id  late. 

Tliei'e  was  a  cold,  disagr(>eal)lc  rain  falling  and  a 
chillv  noi'th  wind  blowinu'.  This  storm  had  l)i'ou<i,ht 
clouds  of  ducks  into  the  rivci',  among  them  several 
Hocks  of  canvas  backs.  The  Indians,  who  were  using 
smoorh-bore  muskets,  killed  several  of  these  tooth- 
some fowls.  One  tlock  rose  ahead  of  us  and  stai'ted 
di recti v  down  the  river,  but  1)V  some  kind  of  native 
intuition  the  Indians  seemed  to  know  that  they  would 
come  back  up  the  opposite  shore.  They  drojtped 
their  guns,  caught  up  the  paddles  and  i)lied  them 
with  such  foi'ce  that  every  stroke  fairlv  lifted  the 
light  cedar  canoe  out  of  the  water,  and  we  shot  across 
the  river  with  the  speed  of  «i  deer.  Sure  enough, 
after  living  a  hundred  yards  (h)wn  stream  the 
ducks  turned  and.  hugging  the  shore,  undei-took  to 
l)ass  up  the  river  on  the  other  side,  but  we  cut  them 
olf,  so  that  they  had  to  ])ass  over  our  heads.  At 
this  juncture  the  two  muskets  carried  by  the  two 
young  men  cracked  and  three  canvas  bucks  dropped, 
lini})  and  lifeless,  into  the  water  within  a  few  feet 
of  us. 

We  arrived  at  the  hnt  o(M«n](ied  by  this  fanuiy  at 
noon.  It  stands  on  the  Ivmk  of  th«'  river,  half  a  mile 
above  the  villa^ge  of  Chehalis.  and  as  we  pulled  n}>. 
two  old  and  two  young  sipiaws  and  nine  suiall  Indi- 
ans, some  of  them  mere  papooses  in  arms  (but  not 


ll 


f 


84 


(■i;i'ISIN(iS    FN    TIIK   CASCADKS 


ill  long  clot  lu^s  -ill  I'Mct,  iiol  in  ;iny  clol  lies  wort  li  iiicii- 
tioiiiiiii),  (';iin(' swiiriiiiiiuoiil  loint't'l  us.  'rii<'ii-Ml)o<U* 
was  ;i  slianly  ;il)oiit  twelve  I'cct  si^iiarc,  madi'  by  sci- 
tiiiL;'  Tour  coiiit'r  posts  into  the  liroiiiid,  iiailiiiuMToss- 
i'il)s  on,  and  over  tli"^*'  (■lai)))oards  rivon  from  tlic 
iialivt'ct'dars,  and  llic  roof  was  ol'  tin*  same  malarial, 
'riip  adidt  nicniht'rs  of  tliis  social  alliance  had  been 
enu'Jiuvd  in  catchinu'  and  di'vinu' salmon  diirinu' tlit' 
recent  run;  the  heads,  entrails  and  backbones  of  w  hicli 
had  been  (lmni)e<l  into  the  river  at  their  very  door. 
There  beiim'  no  current  lU'ar  the  shore  Ihev  had  sunk 
in  barely  en(»u,nh  water  to  cover  them,  and  lay  there 
rotting  and  pointing  the  water  used  by  the  family 
i'or  drinking  and  cooking.  Cart-loads  ol"  this  olVal 
were  also  Ivinu'  about  the  doorvurd,  and  liad  been 
trampled  into  and  inixe(l  up  with  the  mud  until  the 
whole  outlit  stunk  like  a  tanyard. 

Within  was  a  iticture  ol'  iilth  and  sqnaloi'  tliat 
beggjirs  descri[)tion.  The  floor  of  the  hut  was  of 
mother  <'arth.  A  cou)»leof  logs  with  two  cla  [(boards 
liud  across  them  formed  the  only  seats.  On  one  side 
wtis  ;i  pile  of  brush,  hay,  and  dirty,  lilthy  blankets, 
indiscriminately  mixed,  on  which  the  entire  three 
families sl.^l)t,  presumably  in  the  same  fashion.  Near 
the  centre  of  the  hut  a  small  lire  struggled  for  exist- 
ence, and  thai  portion  of  the  smoke  that  was  not 
absorbed  by  the  jx'ople,  the  drying  iish  and  other 
objectN  in  ilie  room,  esca])ed  thi'oiigh  a  hoh'in  the 
centi>' of  tile  roof.  Thechildivn.  bare  foot  <(1  and  half- 
naked,  came  in  out  of  the  rain,  mud,  and  lisli  carrion, 
in  Avliicli  they  had  b(>en  tramping  about,  and  sal  or 
lay  on  the  ground  aluuil  l||e  lite,  looking  as  ha])py 
us  a  litter  of  jiigs  hi  a  uuul  hole.     On  poles,  attached 


II 


AND  nriii;ij  iir\'H.\(;   A i)\' i;\i(i;i> 


.sn 


" 


; 


i 


I 


oy  ct'iliii'  willies  to  llic  nil'tcis,  ^\('^t'  liiiiiij,'  scvcial 
liuiidrcdsMlinoii,  iil)S()rl)iii<:-siii()k(',  cnrboirK;  add  ,u":is 
rroni  tliH  limus  ol'  tlic  liiiinaii  Ix'inus  hciicalli,  and 
steam  I'l'oiH  tilt'  cookiiiu'  that  was  uoiiii;' on.  It  is 
understood  thatal'tei'  iliis  j)ro('ess  haslx-eii  [)i()l()n,ue(l 
I'or  some  weeks  tiiese  once  noble  Jislies  will  be  lit  I'or 
the  winter  food  oL"  the  Siwash. 

Some  oL'  tli<'  houses  in  (Miehalis  are  neat  frame 
('otta,i;'es  ;  in  fact,  it  is  a  beitcr-biiilt  town,  on  the 
whole,  than  the  villa.u'e  of  llaiiison  Hiver  already 
described;  but  these  better  houses  all  stand  back 
about  a  (Quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river,  and  the 
iidiabitants  have  left  them  and  goiu*  into  tin;  ''  lish- 
hotises,''  the  clapboard  structures,  on  the  immediate 
river  bank.  Some  of  these  shanties  are  much  laru'er 
than  the  om3  mentioned  al)ove,  and  in  ome  cases 
four,  iive,  or  even  six  hunilies  hole  up  in  one  of 
these  filthy  dens  during  the  iisli-curiny  season. 

Asa  matter  of  fact,  there  are  salmon  of  one  variety 
or  another  in  these  lai'.uer  rivers  nearly  all  the  }  ar, 
but  sometimes  the  weathei'  is  Too  cold,  too  wet,  or 
otherwise  too  disagreable  in  winter  I'or  the  noble  red 
man  to  lish  with  ccmd'ort,  and  hence  all  these  prep- 
arations for  a  rainy  day.  After  the  lislies  are  cured 
they  are  hung  up  in  big  outdiouses  iet  on  i)osts,  or 
in  some  cases  built  high  up  in  the  i)ranches  of  trees,  in 
order  to  be  entirely  out  of  the  i-each  of  rats,  niiidvs, 
or  other  vermin,  and  the  members  of  the  commune 
draw  I'rom  the  stock  at  will.  The  coast  Indians  live 
almost  wholly  on  lish,  and  seem  peif(M'tly  happy 
without  llesh,  vegetables,  or  bread,  if  such  be  not  at 
hand,  thouuii  thev  can  eat  pleiitv  of  all  these  when 
set  before  them.     If  one  of  them  kills  a  deer  he  sel- 


86 


('i;i'isFN(;s  IN   riiK  cascadks 


clolll  or  never  ('ills  iiioi-c  of   it    llllUl   the    liver.    Iieiil'f, 

1uii;l;s,  etc.      lie  sells  the  cjircjiss.  11'  within   ;i    tliiee 

davV  voviiu'e  (»r  ;i  white  iiuiii  who  will  liiiv  venison. 

Oueol*  the  vounu,'  inennli'ejidv  mentioned  went  with 


t^ALMON  UOXES  IN  TlCliKS. 


me  down  to  one  of  tlie  bi^'  Hsb-honses  and  called  ont 
Pean.  a  man  about  lil'ty  yeai's  of  a,ue,  wlio  he  said 
wti.s  a  iiood^oat  hunterand  a  ^'ood guide.  Tliey  held  a 
hurried  convers^a.ti.eu  i'l  theii'  native  tongue,  at  the 


,' 


s 


1 


! 


.' 


ANi>  <iiiii;i:  iiiNrrNii  ai>vi  \iriji:s. 


87 


('lost' of  which  [he  voiiii;;"  iiiiiii  Miid  IN'.'iii  would  i^o 
with  ]iu»  for  t\V(>  (h)ll;iis  ji  dnv.  1  iiskt'd  Pcmu  if  hn 
could  l;ilk  I'Jiulish,  ;iud  he  said  "yes,"  lull  ihls 
|U'ovrd.  iu  mI'Ici'  experience,  to  l)e  id)ouI  the  oidy 
KiiU'lish  \v(U'd  he  could  speak.  He  lushed  into  tlie 
Jiut.  Jiud  in  about  three  oi'  foui'  tuinutes  I'etunied 
with  his  ii'uu.  powih'r-hoiii,  hidlet-pouch.  pip*.', 
and  a  small  foil  of  blankets,  and  was  I'eadv  fof 
u  journey  into  the  mountains  of,  he  knew  not  iiow 
man V  (lavs.  His  ctuioe  was  on  the  river  bank  near 
us,  and  as  we  wert^  stei>pin,u'  into  it  F  aske<l  hiui  a 
few  (piestions  which  he  ti'ied  to  answei'  in  Enulish, 
but  mad(^  a  poor  stagger  ut  it,  and  slid  oil'  into  Chi- 
nook. 

.lust  then  another  old  Inditm  came  up  with  a. 
canoedoad  of  wood.  I  askt^d  him  if  he  could  speak 
EiiU'lisii — '•  wahwah  Iviniz'  (.feoruc " " ;  and  he  sjdd 
"i'es." 

I  then  tohl  liini  I  liad  liire*!  tliis  other  man 
to  <i,'o  huntin.U'  with  me  and  asked  him  if  he  knew 
him. 


Oh, 


yes. 


aid 


me  chief  Ikm'c 


All 


(lese 


lioiise  my  house.     All  (h^se  peojjle  my  jx'ople.     No 


other  chief  liere 


1  said  I  Avas  deliu'hted  t     '.now 


liim,  sliook  liands  with  him,  gave  liim  a  cigar,  and 
in([nired  his  name. 

"  Captain  (feorge,"  lie  said;  '"me  chief  lien^'' 
Is  lie  a  good  hunter  f"  i)ointing  to  Pean. 
Yes,  Pean  good  hunter;  good  man.  Ht^kill  i)lenty 
sheep,  deer,  b(:»ar."  With  this  aihlitional  certificate  of 
efliciency  and  good  character  I  I'elt  more  c(jnli(h'nce 
in  Pean,  and  stepping  into  the  canoe  was  once  more 
eii  route  to  the  mountains. 


u 


u 


t> 


^N 


V] 


V. 


7: 


"^  i> 


^^#1/'? 


'/ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


12.8 


2.5 
2.2 


I.I 


1^1- 

t    us    112.0 


1.8 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


/. 


4, 


" 

1.25      U   iiiji^ 

-^ 

6"     

► 

^ 


„-(>' 


\ 


A 


\ 


'A 


^ 
^ 


yi  'VEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  873-4503 


o\ 


88 


ei:risiN<is  in-  t:ii:  cascades 


-. 


Still,  I  Mt  some  niisnivinns.  for  my  past  exiH'iicnre 
with  the  lisli  eateis  had  taiiglit  me  not  to  place 
imi»li<'if  faith  in  their  statements  or ])retensions,  and 
the  se(piel  will  show  h<nv  well  grounded  these  fears 
were. 


CHAPTET?  X. 


«^ 


"5^, 


r". 


-^ 


^ 


\    , 


'HE  FJathead  nation,  to 
wliicli  nearly  all  the  Pimet 
Sound  Indians  l)elon<i-,  may 
almost  he  termed  ampliihians; 
for  though  they  can,  and  d(> 
in  some  cases,  live  iidand  ex- 
clusively, they  are  never  hap})y 
when  away  from  the  water.  They  are 
canoeists  by  birth  and  education.  A  coast 
IS'  Indian  is  as  helpless  and  miserable  with- 
out a  canoe  as  a  jJains  Indian  without  a  horse,  and 
the  Siwash  (Chinook  for  coast  Indian)  is  as  expert  in 
the  use  of  the  canoe  as  the  Sioux,  Ciow,  or  Arapahoe 
in  the  use  and  control  of  hisfavuse.  Almost  the  sole 
means  of  travel,  of  intei-conmiunication  amoni;- these 
people,  and  between  themselves  and  the  whites,  is 
the  canoe. 

Thei'e  are  vin'y  f<>\v  hoi'ses  owned  in  any  of  the 
<'oast  tribes,  and  these  aiv  rarely  ridlen.  When  a 
Siwasli  attemj>ts  to  ride  a  hors«>  he  climbs  onto  it 
kicking  and  grunting  with  the  elfort,  much  as  an 
Alabama  negro  mounts  his  mule,  and  sits  him  about 
as  gracefidly.  But  let  the  Si  wash  stej)  into  his 
canoe,  and  he  fears  no  rapid,  whiilpool,  nor  stormy 
billow.     He  faces  the  most  perilous  water  and  sends 

(89) 


'1 


1)0 


<l!Ils|\(;s    l\    riiK  CASCADKS 


>-) 
o 
a 
v. 


u 

Q 

I— I 
'■J 

o 


< 


AND   OTIIEI:    IirXTINci    ADVKNTI- liKS. 


1)1 


'i. 


his  fi'Mil  cediiiTsUell  into  it  \vitli:i  .skill  and  a  cousdous- 
ness  of  niasteiv  that  wonld  i)iit  to  the  blush  any  of 
the  prize  winners  in  our  Eastern  canoe-club  regattas. 
The  canoes  are  models  of  nautii.d  architectuie. 
'i'liey  are  cut  and  carved  from  tlie  cedar  trees  which 
bounteous  Xature,  in  wise  provision  for  the  Avants  of 
Her  children,  has  caused  to  grow  so  plentifully  and 
to  such  i)rodigious  size  in  the  Sountl  country.  They 
are  of  various  sizes  and  lengths,  owing  to  the  uses 
for  which  they  are  intended.  If  for  spearing  sal- 
mon or  for  light  traveling,  they  are  cut  from  a  tree 
twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  in  diameter,  and  are 
not  more  than  twelve  to  iifteen  feet  k)ng.  If  for 
attending  nets  and  bringing  in  the  catch,  they  are 
generally  longer,  and  if  i'or  freighting  and  long-dis- 
tance traveling,  they  are  of  inmiense  size  and  capable 
of  carrying  grejit  burdens.  A  tree  of  the  size  wanted 
is  selected,  perfectly  sound  and  free  from  knots,  and 
a  log  of  the  desired  length  cut  off.  The  log  is  hol- 
lowed, carved  out  to  the  desired  shape,  then  trimmed 
and  tapered  outside  until  it  is  a  mere  shell,  scarcely 
more  than  an  inch  thick  anywhere. 

It  is  then  tilled  with  water,  a  lire  is  built  near  in 
which  rocks  are  heated  and  thrown  into  the  canoe 
until  the  water  boils.  This  is  continued  until  the 
wood  is  thoroughly  cooked  and  softened,  when  the 
water  is  turned  out,  the  canoe  is  spread  at  the 
centre,  braced  out  to  nearly  twice  its  natural  width 
or  diameter,  and  left  to  dry.  This  gives  it  "  sheer" 
and  enables  it  to  ride  a  heavy  sea  like  a  lifeboat. 
Handsomely  carved  figureheads  are  attached  to 
some  of  the  large  canoes,  and  the  entire  craft  is 
painted,  striped,    and  decorated   in  gay  colors.     I 


m 


92 


CiMISINCiS    IN     IIIK    (  ASCADKS 


. 


mt'Msiircd  out'  (tf  llu'sc  ccdur  cmuocs  lluit  wns  tliii-tv- 

« 

lour  IVt'l  loiiu'  and  live  and  a  hall' IVct  iH'aiii,  and  was 
(old  by  its  (twiK'C  thai  in*  had  canicd  in  it  four  tons 
ol'  I'lt'luhl  on  one  trip,  and  1  wo  cords  of  ^reeu  wood 
on  anolht'i'.  It  would  carry  lil'ly  men  coinl'oitaMy 
and  safclv,  'IMicic  arc  nol  manv  of  the  Indians  that 
can  make  the  lai-j^cr  and  better'  <i,iade  of  canoes,  and 
the  trade  is  one  that  but  few  master. 

There  is  one  famous  old  canoe  builder  near  Van- 
couver, to  whom  Indians  no  from  distances  of  a, 
liunditMl  miles  oi-  more  when  ihev  want  an  extra 
line,  lai'u'e.  liiiht  canoe.  For  some  sjiecimens  ol' his 
handiwitrk  lie  y.ets  as  hi«i-h  as  s8()  to  sjdo.  The  In- 
dians throuuhout  Washinn'tou  Territoiyand  British 
Columbia  do  considerable  fi'ei^htin.u'  Tor  whites,  on 
streams  not  naviuable  for  steamei's,  and  they  take 
freiu'ht  np  over  some  of  the  i'ai)ids  whej-e  no  white 
man  coidd  run  an  emjtty  <'a)ioe. 

Some  of  these  Flatlieads  are  indnsti'ions  and  are 
employed  by  the  whites  ill  salmon  canneries,  Inin- 
berin,<;'  and  lo.u'u'inii'  operations,  farminu'.  etc.  Steam- 
boat men  einplov  them  almost  exclusivelv  for  deck 
hands,  and  they  make  the  best  or.es  to  be  had  in  the 
<'ountry;  lietter  than  either  whites  or  Chinamen. 
They  are  excellent  i)ackers  by  education.  In  this 
densely-timbered  country  horses  can  not,  as  a  rule, 
be  used  for  ])ackin,u',  and  the  Indians,  in goin.u' across 
country  where  there  is  no  watercourse,  pack  nil 
their  i»lunder  on  their  backs.  Whites  travelin<i'  in 
the  Avoods  also  de[)end  on  Indians  to  pack  their  lu<i- 
«ia,iie;  consequently  it  is  not  strange  that  the  latter 
bt'conie  exjterts  at  the  business,  and  it  is  this 
schooling:  that  makes  thein   valuable  as  deck  hands. 


1 


i 


'i  I 


AM>  oTiiKi:  iir.Mi\(.  Ai>\  KNTi  i;i;s. 


Til 


ey  iii-enot  luru'.'  iiicii.   hut  arc  toiiul 


I,    SlllCWV,   t\ 


IK} 


nd 


miisculiu'.     An  invrn.uv  Siuasii  nill  pick  up  iibanvl 
ol  Hour  or  pork,  ;i  case  of  drv  i-oods.  or  ,,tli,.i.  I,,.;, vv 

hvi,..|it  Nv..i-lii!io-tl,,vcl,uii<ln><!i.nun(l.s(,rin(>r.',  roil 
It  onto  liis  back,  and  walk 

river-bank 


MS  easily   as  a   wlijt 


ipa  uanu'-plank  oi- a  steep 
<•  Mian  would  uitli  a 


bairel  of  crackei 

Xo  W(n'k  is  loo  (liity  ())•  too  liard  j'oi-  tl 
are  obedient  to  ordei 
but  their  weak  i.oint,  like  that  of  all  jnd 
inordinate  love  o 


ICJU. 


Tl 


s  ajid  submissive  to  disci})! 


lev 


ine 


lans,  is  ihcir 


\v 


1' whisky,     (^uite  iVetpientlv,  after 


oi'kin.i^-  a   few   weeks  or  luoiiths.  tl 


K'y  »iuit  and  no 


on  n  drunken  (h'banch   thai  ends   (uil'v  when  tl 
money  is  none.     Their  dress  is  much'tl 
genei-al,  as  that  of  tli<'  whites  in  thi 
exeeption   that  the   Indian 


leir 


K'  same,   in 


srenioii   xvith  tin 


s   wear  moccasin 


■'■>  when 


Inintini.-.     This  foot-ear  is  lit  fl^in  favor   here  with 
white  hunters,  owin,o-  to  tliere  bein 


fall,  and  so  much  wadinn-  to  do.     Kubbej-  I 
indispensable  foi'liuntinu-  in  most 


'j;  so  much  I'ain- 


>oot: 


are 


ber  coat  should  also  be  included 
oiitiit.     1  found   the  JIannafoid 


boot   tlie   most    cond'oitable  and  i)eifect  f 


seasons,  andaiiib- 
in  every  hunter's 
ventiJatt'd    lubbei- 


footuear    I 


have  ever   worn.     You  can  scanviv  walk  a  mile  i 


any  diieetic 


n 


moun 

er.     : 
most 


m  in  this  countrv  at  anv  tii 


.AI 


on 

watt 

tlie 

one  of  my  onides  why  he  ,|i,|  i„,t 

instead  of  moccasins. 


ne    of    ve;!i- 


buns  or  lowlands,  without  encounterini-' 
'occa.sins  soon  IxM'onie  soaked,  and  are  then 
mcomfortable  t  hinus  imaiiin 


and  h 


ii>lc.     1  asked 
wear  rubber  boots 


O,    I   (lunno.     l)e 


'plied 


luoxicans  cheaper,  mebbe.     1 


mek  him  myself.     Can't  mek  de  boot 


This  is  about  the  onl 


y  use   the  Indians  make  of 


^ 


I 


1     i 

i 

:     1 

0 

,i     1.1 

04 


(  i:ri>iN(is  IN   rni.  cax  \iti:s 


buckskin.  It  is  not  j»(»i»iil;ir  with  tiicin  ;is  ii  in;it«'fijil 
lor  rlotliiii^,  on  jii'comit  ol"  tin*  vast  jniKtiiut  of  rainy 
weather. 

It  lias  been  said  they  make  chitli  from  tiie  wool 
of  the  p)at,  l)iit,  so  Far  as  I  coiihl  h-ain,  they  make 
very  little,  if  any  (»!'  it,  of  late  years.  1  saw  some 
l»lank<'ts  that  Indians  liad  woven  from  this  wool, 
but  tliev  were  verv  coarse.  Tiiev  have  iiomaehineiy 
I'oi"  spinninii'i  the  yarn  is  merely  twisted  ly  hand,  and 
is  socoaise  and  loose  tiiat  it  woidd  not  hold  t(',uether 
a  week  if  made  into  a  garment  and  worn  in  tin-  woods. 
Of  course,  a  fail'  ai'ticle  of  yai'ii,  and  even  cloth,  may 
be,  and  has  been,  made  entiivly  by  hand,  lait  the.se 
peoj)le  have  neither  lh«*  skill,  the  taste,  nor  the 
industry  to  enable  them  to  <lo  such  woi-k.  A 
coarse  hair  ^rows  with  the  wool  on  the  .u'oat,  and 
the  s(|uaws  do  not  even  take  tlie  tronbh'  to  sejtarate 
it,  but  work  l)oth  up  touethei',  makin.u'  a  very 
nncouthdookinii-  fabric,  even  if  thick,  warm,  and 
serviceable. 

As  a  class,  tlie.se  Indians  a])i)ear  to  be  stricily 
honest,  toward  each  other  at  least.  Thev  leave  their 
canoes,  li'uns,  iijime,  or  in  fact,  any  kind  of  in-operty, 
anywhere  they  choo.se,  without  the  sliuhtest  effort  at 
concealment,  and  always  feel  perfectlv  sure  of  lind- 
in.i"'  it  on  their  retnrn.  About  the  only  case  of  pilfer- 
inii"  I  evei'  heard  of  while  amon^u'  them  (and  I 
took  special  pains  to  investigate)  was  when  John 
asked  nu'  for  some  iish-hooks,  anil  sjud  in  exi)la- 
nalion: 

**  1  had  i)lenty  hooks,  but  1  reckim  Seemo  he  steal 
all  my  hooks." 

"Why,  does   Seymonr  steals"     1  inquired.     He 


P. 


AM»  (tinKi:  urNriNci  akvk.n  rri:i:«;. 


05 


looked  :iil  nioiiiKl  to  sec  il'Sf'ym<tUi' was  within  licar 
iiiu',  and  not  MM-inu'  liini.  rrjilird: 

"  Vou  bt't.     Ik'  steal  my  hooks,  too." 


A  .-T-lWAbll  AND  1I1?>  MUKN'IXG'S  CATCH. 


vl 


1 


l)tl 


<  iM  i>i.\<.--  IN   rm;  <  ax  adks 


"'XT^/.'^r^- 


■>v-.^i 


-.i^-"^' 


/t^l^v. 


M 


:  I 


-f^a  -V  «<■ 


AN  INDIW  SALMON  FISIIKItV, 


'->  i| 


I 


iiS;.: 


^ 


CllAl'TKl}     XI, 


■1 


I 


1 


■35^ 


',    ! 


1, 


I 

"!     t 


08 


CIM  lsI.N(is    IN     IIIK  (  Asr.MUiS 


HOW  ;il)(Hit  MS  proiKiimccd  :i  luiiiictto  as  its  owiirr. 
'I'll*' otlu'i- l)!Miik«'t  wMs^iMv.  Itiit  t'vcii  throimh  this 
sniuhic  sliinlc,  ;is  \\«'||  jis  tliroiiuli  tlh'  liMlk  odni' 
it  «'!iiitt«'(l,  ^;i\<'  ex  idt'iirt'  thiir  it  Imd  not  hft'ii 
washed  for  many  3«'ars.  IN-aii  ItioijuJit  with  him 
a  cotton  lM'ds|ii'«'ad  that  had  also  oiici*  hren 
Avhilf,  but  l«*ft  this  with  th«' ('ano«'.  In  my  pack  I 
(•allied  til.' ^ii'ul),  and  an  extra  eoat  for  iis^mui  the 
mountain,  where  we  e\j»ected  to  encounter  colder 
weather. 

We  started  u])  the  mountain  at  ten  o'clock  in  the 
l'oi<'no(ni,  lM>r  the  lirst  two  miles  we  skirted  its 
base  to  the  eastward,  throiiuh  dense  tiiiiln'r,  crossing- 
several  deep,  dark  jiinules  and  swamps.  Then  we 
bcLMii  the  ascent  proi>er.  and  as  soon  as  we  i^-ot  ui»  a 
few  hundred  feet  on  the  mountain  side,  we  found 
numerous  fresh  deer-signs.  We  lialte<l  to  rest,  when 
IVan  toolv  from  its  case  liis  gun,  wliicli  iq)  to  this 
time  lie  had  kept  covered,  and  whicli  1  naturally 
sui>}»osed  to  he  a  good,  modern  wea[»on.  It  i)roved, 
liowever,  an  old  smooth  Inuv,  muzzledoading, 
percussi(m-lock  musket,  of  .05  cali'ue,  with  a 
barrel  about  liftv  inches  lonu'.  He  drew  out  the 
wii)ing  stick,  on  the  end  of  which  was  a  wormer, 
piilh^l  a,  wjid  of  i>aper  from  the  gun  and  poured  a 
charge  of  shot  out  into  his  hand.  This  he  })ut  care- 
fully into  his  shot-bag.  Then  he  took  from  another 
IKJUch  a  No.  1  buckshot,  and  dropi)ed  it  into  the 
muzzle  of  his  musket.  It  rolled  down  onto  the 
powder,  when  he  again  instated  the  ])uncli  of  paper, 
rammed  it  home  with  the  rod,  put  on  a  cap,  and  was 
loade<l  for  bear,  deer,  or  whatever  else  he  miglit 
encounter.     He  then  replaced  the  musket  in  its  seal- 


ru"^, 


TT 


AM>    "llll.!:    Ill   NUM.    .\1»\  KM  I   Ki; 


jis    if    it    li:ii 


lircli 


lU) 


s:!(io 


skill  cover  ;is  <'jirt'riiliv 

|)I'"»M'||-I(»;i(lt'r. 

N«';irly  nil  liio.'  |||<|i;ilis  use  jusj  sijcli  old  llllls- 
k«'ls.  hoiiiilit  from  flit'  IIikKom  I'mn  ( 'oiiiiiiiiin  ,  .'ind 
y«'t  ilu'v  k»'f|t  ilifiii  ill  covci's  iiiiiil*-  <»r  lilt'  skill  of 
tiM*  scj  k  wliirii  iIk'v  kill  ill  tin-  rixcrs  IhTfjiltoiil.  or 
of  (k'<'i' or  oiIht  jiniiiiiiN.  Tlicy  tiikr  «'.\r»'ll>'iit  ciiic 
of  llicir  ^iiiis  ill  tiiis  rt'>jM'ci.  liiit  i  linvc  iifvcr  x'cii 
oiH«  of  tlicm  clejiii  or  oil  his  \vi'jiin)ii.  ;,ii(l  scvciiil  of 
iImmu  told  iiic  tJH'V  st'ldom  d 


(  >   .S(  ». 


iNJy  WiiicJM'stcr t'.'vpi  willi  kmry  siork.  Lyiiiim 
siu'lit,  «'!('.,  WMs  ;i  ciiriosiix  ]o  tlinii.  >i'oiit' of  tin'iii 
liiid  t'vcr  .sct'ii  iinythinu  like  il.  ;iiid  out-  of  tlicm 
asked  lilt'  wliat  kind  .»  a  riiif  it  was.  Wlifii  lolij  it 
was  a  WiiK'lM'stcr,  lie  said: 

•"  I  ditliTt  kiion-  Wiiiclicsicr  so  liiu-  like  ilat. 
Didn't  know  he  liad  stock  like  dat.""  lie  hat!  tinly 
seen  the  little  .44  Winchester,  wit!)  a  plain  stock. 
Jind  innocently  snppcjsed  it  was  the  only  kind 
made. 

IVan  and  T  had  a  hard  day's  work  toilinu  up  the 
mountain  thronuh  fallen  tinibei'.  over  ami  art)iind 
great  ledges  of  jilt  ling  rock,  across  deep,  riiuued 
canons  and  gulches,  and  through  dense  jmiules  of 
underbrush.  Ahoiit  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
halted,  lay  down  foi- a  rest,  and  had  heen  there  hut 
a  few  minutes  when  1  heard  tlie  sharji.  familiar 
chatter  of  the  little  ])ine  stpiirrel.  1  looked  around 
quickly,  expectiiig' to  see  one  within  a  few  feet  of 
me,  but  instead  saw  IVaii  lying  close  to  the  grotind, 
l)eckoning  to  me  and  pointing  excitedly  np  the  game 
trail  in  which  we  had  Ix'cn  walking.  Looking 
throuiih  the  thick,  interveniny,"  brush,    1    saw   two 


)  . 


^l 


I'M 


loo 


CIMlSlXCiS    IX    TIIK    (ASC  AIH.S 


(U'fM-,  ;i  buck  5111(1  :i  doe,  lookiiii*'  towai'd  us.  Tliey 
li;i(l  not  seen  noi-  scenrnd  us,  l)ut  luid  merely  heard 
the  cjiiittei'  of  tile  little  squirrel,  as  they  sujjposed, 
and,  though  apparently  as  coinpletely  deceived  l)y  it 
as  I  had  heeii.  they  had  sto]>ped  tolisten,  as  tliey  do 
at  almost  eveiv  sound  tlievhear  in  the  woods.  Bnt 
there  was  no  s([uiriel  there.  Pean  had  taken  tliis 
methocl  of  callinu'  my  attention,  and  had  imitated 
the  cry  of  the  familiar  little  cone-eater  so  perfectly 
that  even  the  deer  liad  been  deceived  by  it. 

I  cautiouslv  and  slowlv  drew  jiiv  rifle  to  mv 
shoulder,  and  takinu'  aim  at  the  breast  of  the  buck, 
tired.  Botli  deer  l)ounded  away  into  thi<'ker  brush, 
and  were  out  of  sight  in  an  instant.  Pean  sjtrang" 
after  tlieni.  and  in  a  f<'W  minutes  I  heard  the  dull, 
uiutHed  re[»ort  of  \i\>  musket.  He  shouted  tome, 
and  going  to  hiiu  1  found  the  l)iu'k  dead  and  the 
hidian  engaged  in  butchei'ing  it.  ^fy  bullet  had 
gone  a  little  farther  to  tlie  1^'ft  than  I  intended, 
breaking  its  shoulder,  and  had  passed  out  through 
the  ribs  on  the  same  side.  The  deei-  had  fallen  after 
going  but  a  few  yards,  but  was  not  quite  dead  when 
Pean  came  up  and  shot  it  through  the  h«^ad.  We 
took  out  the  entrails,  cut  a  choi<'e  roast  of  the  meat 
for  our  su]q»er  and  breakfast,  and  hurried  on  our 
way. 

We  camped  at  four  o'clock  on  a  small  bencli  of 
the  mountain,  and  you  may  rest  assured,  gentle 
reader,  that  our  conversation  in  front  of  the  camp 
tire  that  night  was  novel.  Pean,  you  will  remember, 
ct)uld  not  speak  half  a  dozen  words  of  English.  He 
sjjoke  entirely  in  Chinook,  and  1  knew  but  a  few 
words  of  that  iaruon.     I  had  a  Chinook  dictionarv 


i 


AND   OTIIKU   JirXTINd   ADVKN'jntES. 


101 


with  lUH.  however,  and  by  its  aid  was  able  to  i)it'k 
out  the  few  words  necessary  in  wliat  little  talking  I 
had  to  do,  and  to  translate  enough  of  Pean's  answers 
to  my  questions  to  get  along  fairly  well.  The  great 
trouble  with  him  .seemed  to  be  that  lie  was  wound 
up  to  talk,  and  whenever  I  made  a  ren.ark  or  asked 
a  (jriestion  in  his  ado])ted  language  he  turned  loose, 
and  talked  until  1  siiut  him  off  with  ''Ilalokum- 
tucks''  (I  don't  understand  ).  No  matter  how  often 
I  repeated  this  he  seemed  soon  to  forget  it,  and 
would  open  on  me  again  whenever  he  got  a  rue.  He 
was  a  Huent  talker,  aud  if  I  liad  only  been  well  up 
in  the  jargon,  1  could  have  got  lots  of  pointers  from 
him. 

The  deer  of  this  region  is  the  true  black-tail  {Cdr- 
vus  cohunbiunnn),  not  the  mule-deer  (Ccrriis  mn- 
crotis),  that  is  so  often  miscalled  the  black-tail. 
The  black-tail  is  smaller  than  the  mule-deer,  and  its 
ears,  though  not  so  large  as  those  of  the  latter,  are 
larger  than  those  of  the  ^'irginia  deer  (Cprr«.s  r/?-- 
ffiiii'anns).  It>s  tail  is  white  underneath,  dark  out- 
side, shading  to  black  at  the  lower  end,  and  while 
longer  than  that  of  the  mule-deer,  is  not  so  long  as 
that  of  the  Viruinia  deer. 


■^ 


fi,V«  ^■«,^i«OTy 


S: 


M  i 


i  f 


CTI AFTER  XII. 

IIINOOK  is  ;i  qiwev  .jj'r^on.  It  is  said 
^^  to  liav(^  been  iiuiiiul'jietuied  many 
years  ai-o  1)V  an  enii)lov6  of  the  Hucl- 
son  Bay  Fur  Company,  ^\ilo  taught  the 
])rincii)al  cliiet's  of  various  Indian  tribes  to  si)eak 
it  in  order  to  facilitate  traffic  witli  tlieni.  From  tliat 
time  it  has  grown  and  spread  until  almost  every 
Indian  of  the  Xorth  Pacilic  Coast,  and  many  inland 
tribes  of  Washington,  British  Columbia,  and  Oregon 
s[)eak  it.  White  men  of  all  nati(ms  avIii  live  in  this 
country  speak  it,  and  even  the  almond-eyed  Cliina- 
man  learns  it  soon  after  locating  here.  In  short,  it 
is  tlie  court  language  oL'  the  Northwest,  as  the  sign 
language  is  of  the  plains.  It  is  made  np  fnmi  va li- 
ons Indhm  tongues,  witli  a  few  English,  oi  I'ather 
pige<m-English,  Fivnch,  and  t*^panisli  words  inter- 
mixed. Tliere  are  only  about  ].r)00  words  in  the 
language  and  it  is  very  easy  to  learn.  Of  course,  it 
is  woefidly  lacking  in  strength  and  beauty.  You 
will  often  want  to  say  souiething  that  can  not  be  said 
in  Chinook,  because  there  are  no  words  in  that 
j:irgon  with  which  to  say  it.  But  it  is  made  to 
answer  the  purposes  of  trade,  travel,  and  barter,  in 
common  forms.     For  instance: 

''K'di-tali  si-all  ko-pa  Frazer  chuckf  would  be. 
"  How  far  is  it  to  the  Frazer  river:"' 

"  Yutes   kut  klat-a-wa  ia-i)e-a."   "Only    a   short 

(10-,') 


'  !><>  you  want  to 


AXD   OTIiKIt  JrT'NTIN(.    Ai>V  KXTrKKs.  ](;8 

"Kla-how-yji,  six." 
''(Miah-roy;,h-\vn"  is  "  Coim 
"Mi-ka   tik-eli    mani-ook'" 
woik^' 

"  Ik-ta  mi-ka  7nain-ookr"     *•  Vt  wlnt''' 
-Mam^ok^ick."     ^Cnt  some  wo^d:*' 
^a-wit-ka."     "CVrtainlv."' 

"Kon-si(lat-la  spose  mi-ka  inam-ook  kon-a-wav 
o-koke  stick'  '     "  Wi.Mf  ,k    ,  '  - 

that  lot  of  ,voo,ir  "'""■'""''"■  ™""'^- 
"Iktdolhi.-'     "Ono  ilollnr" 

(tliree)    lock-it  (four),   k«in-im„i   (livei,   tn.'h.kiini 
-.X)   «m-na  ,„ox  («.ven),  sto  t«-kln,..ilHr  n 
nmej,  f,h-,Iu,n  („.„,,  tak-tlun„.ee.ikn4v™      ,  h 
"u    l>ee.mox    (t«dv..j,    moxMal.  ,l,„n    u«Jn 

klone  tah-tlum     (fhii-tyX    ikt    tal.-kanK.-, mv     o,e 
m„.h«      t.h.tl„,„  t.,.ka  „.o.n,ik  ,o„e  t„„„.,; 

fm,„  1  "^'  '.'•""'■""  '"  g"f  "•■"■-at,.  mforn.atior 
t.om  these  Iiuliaus  ms  to  ,li.srances  or  tin,,.  „s  the 
have  httle  idea  of  Enslish  ,„iles  or  of  th^;,  e  '  ,; 
.ents  ot  tm,e,  an.I  very  fe»-  of  th,.,,,  <,«n  ,  ■  k  „ 
UHv  to  read  a  wnteh  or  eloek.  Vnder  Pean's ,  .  e  " 
I  learned  rapidly,  and  was  soon  able  to  e    n    "^ 

ii;t2t;r;r'"'''"'"-^"'^''"""''-^-»''-'''^<>^*i'" 

By  the  light  of  a  I'ousing  eanii,-(ire  I  cut  a  hrn-e 
quantity  of  ,.edar  honghs  and  made  L  n  vseTf^I 
bed  a  foot  deep.     On  this  I  spread  n,v  sleepin.,-, '  , 
en.ul„l  into  it  and  slept  the  sleep  of  fhe  wea  y  ,  ,;;: 
ter.     Pean  ent  only  a  handfnl  of  bonghs,    p ."ad 


1 


!* 


)    ■(' 


,'l 

j    I 

h 

ii 

104 


CUriSINCJS    IN    THE   ("AS(\\I)KS 


tliem  near  the  tire,  threw  his  eoat  over  tlieiii,  and  hi y 
down.  Tlien  lie  fohled  his  two  hhmkets  and  spread 
them  over  him,  mostly  on  the  side  awav  from  the 
lire,  leaving  that  part  of  his  body  next  to  the  iuv 
exposed  so  as  to  catch  its  heat  direct.  Duriii*'-  the 
night,  whenever  he  turned  over,  he  would  shift  his 
blankets  so  as  to  keep  them  wlune  most  needed.  At 
frequent  intervals  he  would  get  up  and  replenish 
the  lire  from  the  large  supply  of  dry  wood  we  had 
jnovided.  The  night  was  bitter  cold,  at  this  high 
altitude,  and  snow  fell  at  frequent  intervals.  A 
raw  wind  blew,  and  the  old  man  must  have  suffered 
from  the  cold  to  which  he  exposed  himself. 

There  are  few  of  these  savages  that  understand 
and  appreciate  fully  the  value  of  a  good  lied  when 
camping.  In  fact,  many  white  hunters  and  mount- 
aineers go  on  hmg  camping  trips  with  insufficient 
))edding,  simply  because  they  are  too  lazy  to  carry 
enough  to  keep  them  comfortable.  I  would  rather 
get  into  a  good  warm,  soft  bed  at  night  without  my 
sui)per,  than  eat  a  feast  and  then  sleep  on  the  hard 
ground,  without  covering  enough  to  keep  me  warm. 
After  a  hard  day's  work  a  good  bed  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  prepjire  one  for  the  labor  and  fatigue  of 
tile  following  day. 

"  In  bed  we  lauiih,  in  bed  we  cry, 
Aud  born  in  bed,  in  bed  we  die; 
The  near  approach,  ii  bed  may  show, 
Of  human  bliss  to  human  woe." 

Any  ablebodied  man  may  endure  a  few  nights  of 
cold,  comfortless  sleep,  but  it  will  tell  on  him  .sooner 
or  later;    while  if  he  sleep  comfort  bly  and  eat 


*5 


AM)   OTIIKU   lIlNTINCi    ADV  l.\  IT  KKS. 


KC) 


lieartilv,  lie  iiiav  eiidm'e  ;ni  iii('i'e(lii)le  aiiioiiut  of 
labor  and  hardship  of  other  kinds.  You  may  tramp 
all  dav  with  voiir  i'eet  wet.  and  all  vour  clothiuji' 
wet,  if  need  be.  but  be  sure  you  crawl  into  a  good, 
warm,  drv  l)ed  at  uiuht. 

Old  Peau  complained  of  feeling  unwell  during  the 
evening,  and  in  the  morning  when  wm  not  up  said 
he  was  sick.  I  prepared  a  good  breakfast,  but  lie 
could  Jiot,  or  at  least  wou'd  not.  eat.  Then  he  told 
me  that  he  had  once  fallen  down  a  mountain;  that 
his  breast-bone  had  been  crushed  in  bv  striking  on 
a  sliai'p  rock,  and  that  it  always  hurt  him  since 
when  doing  any  hard  work.  He  said  the  climb  n[) 
the  mountain  with  the  pack  was  too  hard  for  him 
and  he  was  i)layed  out,  that  he  could  go  no 
farther. 

Here  was  another  bitter  disappointmHnt,as  we  were 
yet  two  miles  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  and  in 
going  that  distance  a  perpendicular  asct^it  of  from 
2,(K»()  to  8,000  feet  must  be  made.  I  deliberated, 
therefore,  as  to  whether  I  should  go  up  the  mount- 
ain alone  and  let  Pean  go  back,  but  decided  it 
would  be  useless.  I  could  not  carr\'  more  load  than 
my  sle,'i)ing-bag.  gun,  et(\.  and  therefore  could 
bring  no  game  down  with  me  if  1  killed  it,  not  even 
a  head  or  skin.  Beside,  if  he  went  back  he  would 
take  his  canoe,  and  I  would  be  left  with  no  rueans 
of  crossing  the  lake,  fso  the  (mly  thing  to  be  done 
was  to  pack  up  and  retrace  our  stei)s.  On  our  way 
down  we  stoi)ped  and  took  the  head  and  skin  ott  of 
the  deer  killed  the  dav  befoiv,  and  I  cai'rind  them 
to  the  canoe.  Arriving  at  the  lake,  we  pulled  again 
for  Chehalis  in  a  cold.  disagreeal)le  rain.     1  stojjped 


I    % 


\ur, 


(•uiisi.\(is  IN   riiK  (  \s(  Ai)i:s. 


iit  the  liot  .siiiiiin's  oil  my  way  down,  and  took  my 
leave  of  my  host.  Mi'.  Jjiown,  wlio  had  been  so  kind 
1o  me,  and  wlio  regret tetl  my  ill  luck  ahnost  as 
mnch  as  i  did. 


'.  i  i] 


■ji 


M 


ClIAPTEl?   Xill. 

iX  our  ivtuni  lo  Clicliiilis— that  town  of 
unsavoiy  odors  and  saliiioii-dryiii^", 
silinoM-sniokiiii;'  Si\vasli«'s  —  I  at  once 
omplo\>'d  t\v(i  otlitT  Indians,  named  .Jolin 
and  Seymour,  an  1,  on  tlis;  followinii;  day  we 
stai'fed  up  Ski-ik-kul  Creek,  to  a  lake  of  the 
same  name,  in  wliicli  it  lieads  ten  miles  back  in 
the  mountains.  The  Indians  claimed  that  goats,  or 
sheep,  as  they  call  them,  av<'1v  plentiful  on  the  cliffs 
surrounding  this  lake,  and  that  we  could  kill  plenty 
of  them  from  a  I'aft  while  floating  np  and  down 
along  the  shores.  Seymour  claimed  to  lia\  e  killed 
twenty-three  in  March  last,  just  after  the  winter 
snows  had  gone  olf,  and  a  ])arty  of  seven  Siwashes 
from  Chehalis  had  kilh'd  ten  about  two  weeks  pre- 
vious to  the  date  of  my  visit. 

Such  glowing  accounts  as  these  built  uj)  my  hopes 
again  to  such  a  height  as  to  banish  from  my  mind  all 
recollection  of  the  bitter  disa[)p()intment  in  which  the 
former  expediti^m  had  ended,  and,  although  the 
rain  continued  to  fall  heavilv  at  shoit  intervals,  so 
that  the  nnderbrush  leeked  with  damimess  and 
drenching  showers  ft»ll  from  every  bush  we  touched, 
I  trud.!:ed  cheerilv  alonn"  legardless  of  all  discom- 
forts. 

The  iirst  two  miles  up  the  creek,  we  had  a  good, 
open  trail,  but  at  the  end  of  this  we  climbed  a  steep, 

(107) 


I 


los 


<UriSlX(iS    IN'   TIIK   CASCADKS 


rocky  Miilf.  about  .")(>()  fe«*t  lii'i'h,  sind  made  the  pea ter 
poi'tioii  of  tliH  reinaiiiiiii;'  distance  at  an  aveia<ie  of 
about  tlds  lieiulit  above  the  .stream.  There  was  a 
l)lind  Indian  trail  all  the  wav  to  the  lake,  but  it  h'd 
over  the  rounhest,  most  tortuous,  outlandish  country 
that  ever  any  i'ool  of  a  goat  hunter  attempted  to 
traverse.  There  are  marshes  and  morasses  away  up 
among  these  mountains,  where  alders  and  water 
beeches,  manzanitas,  and  other  shrubs  grow  so  thick 
that  their  bian(dies  intertwine  to  nearly  their  full 

« 

length.  Manv  of  these  have  fallen  down  in  various 
directions,  and  their  trunks  are  as  inextricably  mixed 
as  their  branches,  forming  altogether  a  labyrinthine 
mass,  through  which  it  was  with  the  utmost  ditliciilty 
Ave  could  walk  at  all. 

There  were  numberless  little  creeks  coming  down 
from  the  mountain  into  the  main  stream,  and  each 
liad  in  time  cut  its  deep,  narrow  gulch,  or  canon, 
lined  on  both  sides  with  rough,  sliai)eless  masses  of 
rock,  and  all  these  we  were  obliged  to  cross.  In 
many  cases,  they  wei-e  so  close  together  that  only  a 
shari)  hoii-back  lav  between  them,  and  we  merely 
climbed  out  of  one  gulch  8(>()  or  4<)()  feet  deep,  to  go 
at  once  down  into  another  still  deeper,  and  so  on. 
Fire  had  run  through  a  large  tract  of  this  country, 
killing  out  all  the  larue  timber,  and  many  trees  have 
since  rotted  ;iway  and  fallen,  while  the  blackened 
and  barkless  trunks  of  others,  with  here  and  there  a 
craggy  limb,  still  stand  as  mute  monuments  to 
the  glory  of  the  forest  before  the  dread  element  laid 
it  waste. 

We  camped  that  night  at  the  base  of  one  of  these 
great  dead  lirs  ai'ound  which  lay  a  cord  or  more 


li 


AM)  oTHKii  iirxTiN*;  ADVKN  rii;i:s. 


lou 


of  (►Id  dry  hurk  that  had  hlhrn  lioni  it,  and  wliicli, 
witli  a  few  dry  logs  we  gatliered,  t'lirnislied  fuel  for 
a  rousing,  all-night  lire.  Witiiin  ji  few  feet  of  our 
camp,  a  clear,  ice-cold  little  rivulet  threaded  its  ser- 
pentine way  down  among  rocks  and  ferns,  andmade 
sweet  music  to  lull  ns  to  sleep.  After  supper,  I 
made  for  myself  the  usual  l)ed  of  mountain  feathers 
( cedar  houghs),  on  which  to  spread  my  sleeping-bag. 
Tills  old  companion  of  so  many  rough  jaunts,  over 
plains  and  mountains,  has  become  as  necessary  a 
jiai't  of  my  outlit  for  such  voyages  as  niy  •itie. 
Whether  it  journey  l)y  day,  on  the  hurricane  deck  of 
a  iiiide,  in  th  i  hiitchway  of  -d  canoe,  on  my  shouldei* 
blades  or  those  of  a  Siwasji.  it  always  rounds  ui>  at 


night  to  house  me  against  the  l)leak  wind,  the  driv- 
ing snow,  or  i)ouring  rain.  I  have  learned  to  i)rize 
it  so  highly  that  I  can  appreciate  the  sentiments  of 
the  fallen  monarch,  Xapoleo'i.  on  the  lonely  island 
of  >>t.  Helena,  when  hewi'ote: 

•'The  bed  has  become  a  place  of  luxury  tome. 
I  would  not  exchange  it  foi-ali  tlie  tluones  in  the 
woi'ld  "" 

These  Indians,  like  Pean,  and.  in  fact,  all  oiheivs 
who  have  seen  the  bag,  are  greatly  interested  in  it. 
They  had  never  seen  anything  like  it,  and  watched 
with  undisguised  interest  the  unfolding  and  pivpar- 
ing  of  the  article,  and  when  I  had  crawled  into  it, 
and  stowed  myself  snugly  away,  they  looked  at  each 
other,  grunted  and  uttered  a  few  of  their  peculiar 
guttural  sounds,  which  I  iniauined  would  be,  if 
translated: 

"  Well,  I'll  be  doggoned  if  that  ain't  about  the 
sleekest  trick  I  ever  saw.    Ehi" 


t .    ifl 


110 


CU«'ISIN(JS    IN    TIIK   (ASt  ADKS 


''  You  lujt  it's  nice  to  sleep  in,  but  heavy  to  can  y." 
liy  tlie  way,  some  of  my  readers  may  never  liave 
seen  one  of  these  valuable  cami)  ai)peiula,u'es,  and  a 
des('i'i|>tion  ol'itmay  interest  tiicm.  The  outei'bai-is 
made  of  heavy,  bi-own,  walerprool'  canvas,  six  I'crt 
long,  three  I'eet  whU?  in  the  centic,  tapered  to  two 


I    I    i     tn 


: 


« 


[ 


UI.UiliAM  OK  SLKKl'INGli.Vd. 

feet  at  the  head  and  sixteen  inches  at  the  foot. 
Above  the  head  of  the  bag  proper,  flaps  project  a 
foot  farther,  with  which  the  occupant's  head  may  be 
completely  covei'ed.  if  desired.  These  are  i)rovided 
with  buttons  and  button-holes,  so  that  they  may  be 
buttoned  clear  across,  for  stormy  or  very  cold 
weather.  The  bag  is  left  open,  from  the  liead  down 
one  edge,  two  feet,  and  a  iiap  is  provided  to  hip  over 


AND  oTiii.w  iirxiFNi;  .\i>\i:n  riiM:>. 


Ill 


this  ojM'lliim'.  lentous  iiiv  .sewed  oil  llie  Iciu',  Mild 
there  JUe  Ifiittoii  lioles  in  tlie  ll;ips  so  it  iiKiy  :ilso  he 
buttoned  up  tiulilly.  Iiisich'  of  tins  ciinvMs  hni;  is 
anotlier  of  the  same  size  iiinl  shaiie,  less  ihe  head 
flaps.  This  is  nia(h'  of  liiiiib  sivin  witii  tiie  wool  on, 
and  is  lined  witii  oidinary  siieetini:',  lo  kee[)  liie 
wooli'i'oni  cojuini;'  in  diieet  (ontact  with  tiie  per- 
son or  clotldnu,-.  One  or  moiv  pairs  of  blankets 
may  l)e  folded  ajid  inserted  in  this,  as  may  be 
necessary,  for  any  temperature  in  wiiich  it  is  to  be 
used. 

If  the  weather  ))e  warm,  so  that  not  all  tiiis  cover- 
ing  is  needed  over  the  sleeper,  he  may  shift  it  to 
suit  the  weather  and  his  taste,  crawlini;'  in  on  top  of 
as  much  of  it  as  he  mav  wish,  and  the  less  he  has 
over  him  the  more  he  will  have  under  him,  and  the 
softer  will  be  his  bed.  Besich'  being  waier[)roof,  the 
canvas  is  windproof.  and  one  can  button  himself  up  in 
this  house,  leaving  only  an  airdu)leat  the  end  of  his 
nose,  and  sleep  as  soundly,  and  almost  as  com- 
fortably in  a  snowdrift  on  the  prairie  as  in  a 
tent  or  house.  In  short,  he  may  be  absolutely 
at  home,  and  comfortable,  whei'evei-  night  linds 
and    no    matter   what   hori'id    niu'iitmares   he 


him. 


n 


lav  have,  he  can  not  loU  oul  of  bed  or  kick  olf  t 


ne 


covers. 


Nor  will  he  catch  a  draft  of  cold  air  along  the 
north  edge  of  his  spine  every  time  he  turns  over,  as 
lie  is  liable  to  do  when  sleeping  in  blankets.  Xor 
will  his  feet  crawl  out  from  under  the  cover  and 
catch  chilblains,  as  thev  are  liable  to  do  in  the  old- 
fashioned  way.  In  fact,  this  sh^eping-bag  is  one  of 
the  greatest  luxuries  I  ever  took  into  cam}),  and  if 


. 


I 


\VJ 


ci:i  i>iNtis  IN  Tin:  i  A>t  adks. 


any  biotlifi'  sportsiiiMii  wlioiiiiiy  ivjul  this  wants  onr, 
and  can  not  liiid  an  arcliitrct  in  iiis  nci^lilxniiood 
capai)]*' of  l»uil<lin^  nn»',  let  liini  coninninicat*'  with 
in«' and  I  will  t«'ll  lilm  uln'ic  mine  was  made. 


•: 


(niAPTEU  XIV 

,,  .4? 


ON(t  jif'tci-  tlie  TiMliiuis  wt'iil  to  sloop  I  l.iy  thf»r«% 
Joukin.u;' into  tilt;  liiv  and  thiiiUiiig.  Maiiyjiiid 
vjiriod  wj'iv  tlio  rancics  that  cliasod 
each  other  tliioui-h  my  restless  hrain — 
some  ])leasant,  some  unpleasant.  I  jiondered  on 
the  novelty,  even  the  danuer,  of  mv  situation.  I 
was  away  np  there  in  that  wild,  tiackless,  jn')untain 
wilderness,  ahme,  so  far  as  any  eonuenial  com- 
panionship was  concerned.  Yes,  I  was  worse 
than  alone,  i'or  the  moment  I  miuht  close  my  eyes  and 
sleej)  I  would  1m;  at  the  mercy  of  these'  two  reckless 
red  men.  True,  they  are  not  of  a  courageous,  war- 
like race,  hut  what  might  they  not  do  for  th<3  sake  of 
plunder  'i  They  could  crush  niN'  skull  at  a  blow  and 
conceal  my  body  beyond  all  possibility  of  discovery; 
or  they  covdd  leave  it  and,  saying  I  had  kilhd  my- 
self by  a  fall,  reveal  its  resting  place  to  anyont;  who 
might  care  to  go  in  search  of  me.  I  had  some  prop- 
erty withni«»,  es|)ecially  my  rille,  sleei)ing-bag,  and  a 
small  sum  of  money,  that  1  knew  they  coveted,  and 
I  reflected  that  thev  miuht  already  have  concocted 
some  foul  scheme  foi- disposing  of  me  and  getting 
possession  of  my  elfects. 

8  (ii;^) 


114 


CIU'ISINdS    I\    TliK   CASCADES 


( 


Tn  their  native  tongue  of  strange,  weird  gntturuls, 
liisses,  and  aspirations,  they  liad  conversed  all  the 
evening  of— I  knew  not  what.  John  had  rather 
an  h<.»nest,  I'rank  face,  that  I  thought  bespoke  a 
good  heart,  but  Seymour  had  a  dark,  re2)ulsive 
countenance  that  plainly  indicated  a  treacherous 
nature.  From  the  iirst  I  had  made  uj)  my  mind 
that  he  was  a  thief,  if  nothing  worse.  lie  ju'e- 
tendetl  not  to  be  able  to  speak  or  understand  Eng- 
lish, although  I  knew  lie  could.  John  spoke  our 
tongue  fairlv,  and  tlirouuh  him  all  connnunication 
with  either  or  both  was  held.  Should  thev  contem- 
plate  any  violence  I  vrould  welcome  them  both  to  an 
encounter,  if  oidy  I  could  have  notice  of  it  a  second 
in  advance.  Their  two  old  snujoth-bore  muskets 
would  cut  no  figure  against  the  deadly  stream  of  tire 
that  my  AVinchester  express  could  i)our  forth.  But 
I  drcnided  the  treachery,  the  stealth,  the  silent  mid- 
night assault  that  is  a  characteristic  of  their  race. 
Yet,  on  further  consideration,  I  dismissed  all  such 
forel)odings  as  purely  chimerical.  These  Avere  civil- 
ized Indians,  living  within  the  sound  of  the  whistle 
of  a  laib'oad  engine,  and  would  hardly  be  willing  to 
place  themselves  withiu  the  toils  of  the  law,  by  the 
commission  of  such  a  crime,  even  if  thev  had  the 
courage  or  the  desire  to  do  it,  and  I  hoped  they  had 
neither. 

Then  my  fancies  turned  to  the  contemplation  of 
pleasanter  themes.  I  thought  of  the  dear  little 
l)lark-eyed  woman,  whom  I  had  2)arted  with  on  board 
the  steamer  nearly  a  week  ago.  She  is  homeward- 
bound  and  must  now  be  speeding  over  the  Dakota  or 
Minnesota  prairies,  well  on  toward  St.  Paul.     AVill 


AND  OTHKK    IH'XTIXd    ADVKNTriJKS. 


11, ■) 


slie  reach  home  in  safety  i  God  jLiiaiit  it — and  tliat 
in  due  time  I  may  be  permitted  to  join  her  tliere. 
Then  otlier  hnniliti]'  images  2)assed  and  repiissed  my 
mental  ken.  Tlie  kind  acts  of  dear  friends,  tlie 
liospitalitiL's  shown  me  by  sti'angers  and  passing 
accpiaintances  in  distant  lands  and  in  years  long 
au'one  came  ti'oopinir  throuuh  mv  memory,  and  a  feel- 
ing  of  gratitude  foi-  those  kindnesses  supphmted  for 
the  time  that  of  solitude.  Gi-adualiv  and  sweetly  I 
sank  into  a  profound  slumber  and  all  was  stillness 
and  oblivion. 

Seyeral  hours,  perhaps,  have  passed,  and  I  am 
thirsty.  I  get  up  and  start  to  tlu^  little  brook  for 
water  ;  to  reach  it  a  log,  lying  across  a  deep  lissure 
in  the  rocks,  must  be  scaled.  With  no  thought  of 
danger  I  essay  the  task  by  the  dving  lire's  uncei*- 
tain  light  and  that  of  the  twinkling  stars.  I  have 
not  counted  on  the  heavy  coverinii'  of  frost  that  lias 
been  de[)osited  on  the  log  since  dark,  and  stepi)ing 
out  upon  the  barkless  part  of  the  trunk,  my  mocca- 
sins slip,  and  with  a  shriek  and  a  wild  but  unsuccess- 
fid  ii'rasp  at  an  overhaniiinu' limb  1  fall  twenty  feet 
and  land  on  the  mass  of  broken  and  jagged  gi'anite 
beneath  I  The  Indians,  alarmed  by  my  cris  s,  sitrint'- 
to  my  relief,  cany  me  to  the  lire,  give  me  stimulants, 
bind  up  my  broken  arm,  and  (U)  all  in  their  power 
to  alleviate  my  sull'erinu's. 

They  are  not  the  crafty  villains  jind  assassins  that 
my  fancy  had  painted.  They  are  kind,  symi)atheiic 
friends.  I  realize  that  uiy  light  collar-bone  and  three 
ribs  on  the  same  side  are  broken,  and  when  I  remem- 
ber where  I  am,  the  de[)lorablen(^ss  and  utter  hel])- 
lessness  of  my  condition  appal  me. 


110 


CRT'IsrX.,,-.   IX   THE   CASCADES 


■■'■-' 


i'\ 


l]r 


if], 

I.  Ml 


Tlie  long  hours  until  daylight  drag  .slowly  by,  and 
at  last,  as  the  sun  tips  the  tlistant  mountain  tops  with 
g(tlden  light,  we  stai't  on  our  perilous  and  ])juni'id 
journey  to  the  Indian  village  jind  to  the  steamboat 
landing:*  The  two  red  men  have  rigged  a  litter  from 
poles  and  blankets,  on  which  the v  carry  me  sal'elv 
to  their  homes,  and  thence  in  a  canoe  to  the  hmdiug 


EX  ROUTE  TO  THE  INDIAN  VILLAGE. 


below.  How  the  long,  tedious  journey  thence,  by 
steamer  and  rail,  to  my  own  home  is  accomplished  ; 
how  the  weary  days  and  niuhts  of  sull'ering  and 
delirium  which  I  endure  cii  nnd'i  were  passed,  are 
subjects  too  painfid  to  dwell  u[)on.  I  am  iinally 
assisted  from  thesleei»erat  my  destinarion.  My  wife, 
whom  the  vv'ii'e  hasinformedof  my  nnsfortuneandmy 
coming,  is  there.  8he  gi'cets  me  with  that  fervent 
love,  that  intensify  oi  pity  and  emotion  that  only  a 


■I  '; 


AND   UTIIEK    IIUNTINtf   AUVENTl' ItES. 


117 


wife  ran  feel.  Her  lips  move,  hut  lier  tongue  is  jKir- 
aiyzed.  For  the  time  slie  can  not  speak  ;  the  wells  of 
her  grief  have  gone  dry  ;  she  can  not  weep  ;  she  can 
only  act  I  am  taken  to  my  liome,  and  the  sus})ense, 
the  anxiety,  having  been  lived  out,  tlie  climax 
having  been  reached  and  passed  I  swoon  away.  Again 
the  surgeon  appears  to  be  racking  me  with  pain  in 
an  effort  to  set  the  broken  ril)s,  and  seems  to  he 
making  an  incision  in  my  side  for  t^hat  jjurpose,  when 
I  awake. 

The  stars  shone  brightly  above  me,  the  frost  on 
the  loaves  soarkled  brightl  v  in  the  tire-liyht  It  took 
me  several  minutes  to  realize  that  I  had  been  dream- 
ing. I  searched  for  the  cause  of  the  acute  pain  in 
my  side,  and  found  it  to  be  thesharj)  })()iiit  of  a  rock 
that  mv  cethir  boughs  had  not  sutficientlv  covered 
and  vrhicU  was  trving  to  uvt  in  between  i  wo  of  m  v  ribs. 
I  got  up,  removed  it  and  slept  better  through  the 
remainder  of  the  night. 


^1 

:    i, 


:l;:a 


! 


li 


I  t 


t  ■' 


m 


^■Vii 


m   c 


CHAPTER  XV. 

IjKI-IK-KUL,  or  Chelmlis  Creek,  as  the 
^  whites  cnll  it,  is  surely  one  of  tlie  most 
.  heautii'iil  streams  iiitlie  whole  (.'ascatle 
Kan,ue.  Its  size  may  be  stated,  approxi- 
mate! v.  as  two  feet  in  depth  hv  iil'tv 
feet  in  widtii,  at  or  near  the  mouth,  hut 
its  course  is  so  crooked,  so  tortuous, 
and  its  bed  so  l)roken  and  uneven  that 
the  explorer  will  seldom  lind  a  reach 
of  it  sufficiently  (piiet  and  undisturbed  to  afford 
a  measurement  of  this  character.  At  one  point 
it  is  cliolved  into  a  narrow  gorge  ten  feet  wide 
and  twice  as  deep,  with  a  fall  of  ten  feet  in  a 
distance  of  thirty.  Through  this  notch  the  stream 
surges  and  swirls  with  the  wild  fury,  the  fearful 
power,  and  the  awe-insi)ii'ing  grandeur  of  a  tornado. 
At  another  i)lace  it  runs  more  placidly  for  a  few 
yards,  as  if  to  gather  strength  and  courage  for  a 
wild  leap  over  a  slnvr  wall  of  frowning  rock  into 
a  foaming  jxx)!  thirty,  forty,  oi'  lifty  iVn^t  i)elow. 
At  still  another  phice  it  seeMs  to  carve  its  wav,  l)v 
the  sheer  power  of  madness,  through  i)iles  and 
walls  of  bi'oken  and  disordered  (juartz.  granite,  or 
basalt,  even  as  Cortes  and  his  handful  of  Spanish 
cavaliers  hewed  their  way  through  the  massed 
legions  of  Aztecs  at  Tlascala. 

Farther  up,   or  down,    it   is  split   into    various 

(118) 


AXD   OTIIEU   lirX'lING   ADVKXTriJKS. 


Ill) 


clianiiels  by  «|,'reat  masses  of  iiplicaved  rock,  and 
these  miniature  streams,  after  winding  liitlier  and 
thither  through  deej),  dark,  narrow  lissuivs  for 
perliaps  one  or  two  liundred  yards,  i-euniti^  to  form 
this  lieadlong  mountain  toi-rent,  Mewing  these 
scenes,  one  is  forcibly  reminded  of  the  poet's  words: 

"  IIow  the  giant  oleinont, 
From  rock  to  rock,  leaps  witli  delirious  bound." 

Series  of  cascades,  a  quarter  to  half  a  mile  long,  are 
met  with  at  freipient  intervals,  which  rival  in  their 
l)eaiity  and  magnilicence  those  of  tlie  Columbia  or 
the  Upper  Yellowstone.  Whirlpools  occur  at  the 
foot  of  some  of  these,  in  which  the  clear,  briglit 
green  water  boils,  sparkles,  and  effervesces  like  vast 
reservoirs  of  chamjxigne.  Th<»  moanings  and  roar- 
ings emitted  by  this  matchless  stream  in  its  mad 
career  may  be  heard  in  places  half  a  mile.  At 
many  points  its  banks  rise  almost  perpendicularly 
to  heights  of  -300,  400,  or  .Ooo  feet.  You  may  stand 
sonearlj^  over  the  water  that  you  can  easily  toss  a 
large  rock  into  it,  and  yet  vou  are  far  above  the 
toi)s  of  the  massive  lirs  and  cedars  that  grow  at  tlie 
water's  edge.  Looking  down  from  these  luiglits 
you  mav  see  in  the  crvstal  fluid  whole  schools  of 
the  lordly  salmon  jtlowing  their  way  up  against  the 
almost  resistless  fury  of  thecunvnt,  leaping  through 
the  foam,  striking  witli  stunning  force  against  hidden 
rocks,  falling  back  half  dead,  and,  drifting  into  some 
cl(>ar  pool  below,  recovering  strength  to  renew  the 
hoi)elcss  assault. 

The  time  will  come  when  an  easy  roadway,  and 
possibly  an  ii'on  one,  will  l)e  built  up  this  grand 
canon,  and  thousands  of  tourists  will  annually  stand 


jii 


'9  m'' 


I 


I 


* 


!:>(> 


cinisi. %■<;-;  IN  Tin;  (  ascadis 


within  its  walls  to  <:;iize  upon  these  maiiic  i)i('tures, 
jil)soi'l)e(l  ill  their  i'landeiir and  romantic  beauty.  Nor 
does  the  main  stream  afford  the  onlv  objects  of 
beauty  and  interest  here.  It  is  a  diamond  set  in  a 
chister  of  diamonds,  for  many  of  the  little  brooks, 
ab'eady  mentioned,  as  cominu'  down  the  mountain 
on  eitlier  side,  are  only  less  attractive  because 
smalltM',  Many  of  them  tumble  from  the  tops  of 
rockv  walls,  and  dance  down  amonu'  the  bi-anches  of 
evergreen  trees,  sparivlinii'  like  ribbons  of  silver  in 
the  ravs  of  the  noondav  sun. 

Tlieodore  Roosevelt,  in  his  excellent  work,  "Ilunt- 
in«;-  Trips  of  a  Ran  -hnian,''  sav-^'  "*  Thirst  is  lai'<''elv 
a  matter  of  habit."  So  it  mav  be,  but  I  am  sadlv 
addicted  to  the  habit,  and  I  found  it  one  from  which, 
on  tills  trip,  I  was  able  to  exti'act  a  great  deal  of 
comfort,  for  we  crossed  one  or  more  of  thesf>  little 
brooks  every  hour,  and  I  rarely  passed  one  without 
taking  a  coi)ious  draiiuht  of  its  icv  fluid.  The  days 
were  moderately  warm,  and  the  hard  labor  we  per- 
formed, wallving and  climbing,  made  these  frequent 
opportunities  to  quench  thirst  one  of  the  most 
l)leasant  features  of  tile  journey.  1  was  frequently 
reminded  of  Cole's  beautiful  tril)ute  to  the  mountain 
brook: 

"  Slot'iiiiig  ill  orystiil  wells,  ' 

lA';»i)iiig  in  shady  dolls, 

Or  issuing  cluar  from  the  womb  of  llic  moiintaiu, 
8ky  mated,  relateil,  earth's  holiest  daughter; 
Not  the  hot  ki>s  of  wine. 
Is  half  so  divine  as  thu  sip  of  thy  lip,  inspiring  eold  water." 

AVe  arrived  tit  our  destination,  the  foot  of  tSki-ik- 
kul  Lake  (;ind  the  source  of  the  creek  up  Avliich  we 
had  betMi  traveling),  tit  foiiro'cl(K'k  in  the  afternoon 


iii'^J 


AXD   OTIIHi:    Iir.\TIN(J   ADVKXTriJKS. 


1-il 


of  the  second  day  our.  We  made  eanip  on  the  bank 
ol"  the  creek,  and  John  and  I  eiiJi:a,o-ed  in  •••atheiino- 
a  supply  of  wood.  After  we  liad  been  thus  occu- 
pied for  ten  or  lifteen  minutes,  I  noticed  that  Sey- 
mour was  nowliere  in  siglit,  and  asked  John  where 
lie  was. 

"  He  try  spear  salmon.' 

''  What  will  he  spear  him  with^'  I  said.     '•  Sharp 
sticks 

"No.     Tie  bring'  speai-  in  him  pocket,"  said  John. 

We  were  standing  on  tiie  bank  of  the  creek  again, 
and  as  he  spoke  there  was  a  crashing  in  the  Iwiish 
overhead,  and  an  iuimense  salmon,  nearly  three  feet 
long,  landed  on  the  ground  between  us.'  Seymour 
had  indeed  brought  a.  spear  with  him  in  his  pocket. 
It  was  made  of  a  fence-nail  and  two  pieces  of  goat 
horn,  with  a  strong  cord  abont  lour  feet  long- 
attaOhed.  There  was  a  sort  of  socket  in  the  upper 
end  of  it,  and  the  points  of  the  two  pieces  of  horn 
were  formed  into  barbs.  As  soon  as  Seymour  liad 
dropped  his  pack  he  had  picked  up  a  long,  diy, 
cedar  pole,  erne  end  of  which  he  had  sharp(>ned  and 
inserted  between  the  1)arbs.  fastening  the  string  so 
that  when  he  should  strike  a  fish  the  spear  point 
would  pull  off.  With  this  simi)le  weapon  in  hand 
he  had  walked  out  on  the  vast  body  of  diiftwood 
with  which  the  creek  is  bridged  for  ha  If  a  mile  below 
the  lake,  and  i)eering  down  between  the  logs,  had 
found  and  killed  the  tish.  Wo  n.ade  a  lire  in  the 
hollow  of  a  great  cedar  that  stood  at  the  water's 
edge.  The  tree  was  green,  but  the  lire  soon  ate  Ji 
large  hole  into  the  central  cavity,  and,  l>y  lr(>- 
quent  feeding   with   dry  wood,  we 'had  a  fire  that 


s   m 


) 

i 

S 

r,  i: 


t 


i 


hllTEU  FOU  THUKK-AMtJfOA' /iOr/. 
(122) 


AND   OTHKU    lIlNTIXd    ADV  KNIT  IIKS, 


1-2:  J 


roared  and  crackled  like  a  great  fiiunace,  all  niglit. 
It 

"  Kindled  the  gummy  1)!irlv  of  fir  or  pine, 
And  sent  u  comforliibl  ■  heat  from  far, 
Whicli  miglit  suppl}'  the  ^;!ln." 

Seymour  cut  oft' tlie  salmon  s  head,  split  the  body 
down  the  hack,  and  took  out  the  si)ine,  TIkmi  he 
spread  the  lish  out  and  put  .skewers  through  it  to 
hold  it  Hat.  Ih^  next  cut  a  stick  about  four  I'eet 
long,  split  it  half  its  hMigth,  tied  a  cedar  withe 
around  to  keep  it  from  splitting  further,  and  insert- 
ing the  fish  in  the  aperture,  tied  another  withe 
around  the  upi)er  end.  lie  now  stuck  the  other  end 
of  the  stick  into  tlu^  ground  in  front  of  the  lire,  and 
our  sui)i)er  was  under  way. 

I  have  often  l)een  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  eat- 
inggi'ub  cooked  by  Indians,  both  squaws  and  men, 
and  can  place  my  hand  on  my  heart  and  say  truth- 
fully I  never  hankered  after  Indian  cookery.  In  fact, 
I  have  always  eaten  it  with  a  mental  reservjition, 
and  a  quiet,  perhaps  unuttered  protest,  but  I  counted 
the  minutes  while  that  lish  cooked.  I  knew  Sey- 
mour was  no  more  cleanly  in  his  habits  than  his 
kin — in  fact,  he  would  not  have  washed  his  haiuls 
before  commencing,  nor  the  tish  after  I'emoving  its 
entrails,  had  I  not  watched  him  and  made  him  do  so; 
but  even  if  he  had  not  I  should  not  have  refused  to 
eat,  for  when  a  man  has  been  climbing  mountains 
all  day  he  can  not  aft'ord  to  be  too  scrupulous  in 
regard  to  his  food.  Wlien  the  lish  was  thoroughly 
roasted  on  one  side  the  other  was  turned  to  the  lire, 
and  finally,  when  done  to  a  turn,  it  was  laid  smok- 
ing hot  on  a  i)latter  of  cedar  boughs  which  I  had 


ill 


ill 


8'i 


I 


134 


ciMisiMis  IN    riii:  (  AS(  .\i>i;s. 


|)ri'[):irt»(l,  and  tlic  sjivoiy  oilors  it  oiiiittcd  would 
li:iv«'  tcinptt'd  tlit»  palate  of  an  t'picmc.  1  took  out 
my  liuiitinii"  knife,  and  niakinii' a  suiip'stive  <i-esture 
toward  the  sniokinu'  lisli,  asked  .)ohn  il"  1  sjiould  cut 
olVa  i)iet'e:  lor  not  withstanding-  my  consuming  hun- 
ger, my  native  modesty  still  lemaim'd  with  me,  and 
1  thus  hinted  for  an  invitation  to  help  myself. 
*•  Yes,"  he  said.  "Cut  otf  how  much  voucaneat." 
You  can  rest  assured  I  cut  olf  a  ration  that  would 
have  frightened  a  tram}),  (iood  digestion  waited  on 
ai)i>etite.  and  health  on  both.  I  ate  with  the  hunger 
born  of  the  day's  fatigue  and  the  mountain  atmos- 
phere,an(l  the  Indians  followed  suit,  or  rather  led,  and 
in  halt  an  houroiUy  the  head  and  si)ine()f  thatlifteen- 
])ound  salmon  remained,  and  tlu'y  were  not  yet  in  an 
edible  condition.  Near  bedtime,  however,  they  were 
both  spitted  before  the  lire,  and  in  the  silent  watclies 
of  the  niiiht,  as  lawokeand  looked  out  of  mv  downy 
bed,  [  saw  those  two  simple-nunded  children  of  the 
forest,  sitting  there  picking  the  last  remaining 
morsels  of  llesh  from  those  two  pieces  of  what,  in 
any  civilized  camp  or  household,  would  have  been 
considered  olfal.  Ihit  when  a  Siwiishcpiits  eating lish 
it  is  g«Mierally  because  thei-e  is  no  more  tish  to  eat. 
After  such  a  supper,  charmed  by  such  weird,  novel 
surroundings,  lulled  by  the  music  of  the  rushing 
waters,  ajid  wanned  by  a  glowing  camp-iire.  1  sh'[)t 
that  night  with  naught  else  to  wish  for.  at  i)eace  with 
all  mankind.  Even  •*  mine  enemy's  dog,  though  he 
had  bit  me,  should  have  stood  that  night  against  my 
hre 


V 


CIIAPTETl  XVT. 

EFORK  lioiiiii'    to    IxmI,    Scymoui'   cMiitioiit'd 

nie  tlirougli  his  intcrpivtri',    tin*  Inithl'iil 

.lolui,   Muninst  uvtiiiii;'  oiil   too  cMi'ly 

V     ill  till' inoiiilnLi'.     lie  said  tii«\ii'<>;!ls 

(lid     not     comnK'nct'     to     move 

Miound  iniiilMiiiit'  orten(M'lo('i\, 

and    if    'At'    stai'icd   out   to   limit 

lu't'orc  tliat  time  we  wow  liable  tt) 

pass     tliciii     asleep     in     their    beds. 

Bnt  I  read  llie  hypocrite's  nieanini;'  between 

his  words:  he  is  a   lazv   loafer  and   loves  to  li'- and 

« 

snooze  in  thf^  morning.  It  was  his  own  coinrort, 
more  than  onr  success  in  hiinliiiii',  thai  he  was  con- 
cerned about,  (foats,  as  well  as  all  other  ^p«H'ies  of 
large  game,  are  on  foot  at  dayliglit,  wlietlier  they 
liave  beiMi  ont  all  night  or  not.  and  from  that  time 
until  an  hour  after  sunrise,  and  again  just  be'.oredark 
in  the  evening,  are  the  most  favorable  times  to  hunt. 
The  game  is  intent  on  feeding  at  these  limes  and  is 
not  so  wary  as  at  otluu-  times.  1  told  Seymour  we 
would  get  up  at  four  o'clock,  get  breakfast,  and  be 
ready  to  move  at  davliuht.     And  so  we  did. 

The  night  had  been  clear  and  cold:  ice  had  formed 
around  the  margin  of  the  lake,  and  a  lioai' fro.st  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep  covered  the  ground,  the  logs, 
ami  rocks  that  wen*  not  sheltered  by  trees.  Ski-ik- 
kul  or  Willey's  Lake,  as  it  is  termed  by  the  whites, 


§1 


hi 


■■> 


V2(\ 


(•IMI>IN(;s    IN    Tin,   CASCADHS 


is  !i  bciiiiliriil  littlf  iii(>mit;iiii  tarn  nUmt  :t  (luartcr  ol 
ii  mile  wide  jiiid  foiii'  inilt's  loiiu-.  It  is  of  ^'lassy 
traiisi»ar«'ii('y,  of  ureal  (N'ptli,  imd  abounds  in  iiiomit- 
aiii  I  rout,  salnioM,  and  saluioii  ti'out.  it  is  walled 
in  by  abrupt,  rocky  lacrd  luoiiiitaiiis  that  lisc  many 
iiundrcds  ol'  fct't  I'roiu  tli«'  watJ-r's  cduc  and  on 
wliicli  a  scanty  urowth  of  laurel,  cuii'ant  buslics,  and 
moss  rurnlsh  food  for  the  li'oats.  Stunted  cedars, 
balsams,  spruces,  and  ])ines  also  urow  fiom  small 
lissures  in  the  rocks  that  all'oi'd  suUicieiit  earth  to 
cover  their  roots. 

TIm'  ciaft  on  winch  we  were  to  navigate  this  lake 
was  an  intereslinu-  sjM'cinien  of  Indian  nautical 
architecture.  It  was  a  raft  Seymour  had  made  on  a 
former  visit.  The  striniiei's  were  two  lai'ue,  drv, 
ce(lar  lou's,  one  about  sixteen  i'eet  loiiu',  tlie  othei' 
about  twenty;  these  were  held  tou'ether  by  I'oui' 
poles,  Ol'  cross-ties,  i)inned  to  the  lo.us,  and  a  floor 
composed  of  cedai'  citii^boards  was  laid  over  all. 
Pins  of  hard,  dry  bircii,  diiven  into  the  lous  and  tied 
toii(4hei'at  the  tops,  formed  rowlocks,  and  the  ci-aft 
was  providt^l  with  fourlaru'e  paddles,  or  oai's,  hewed 
out  with  an  ax.  In  fact,  that  was  the  oidy  tool  used 
in  buildini''  the  laft.  The  pins  had  been  shar])ened 
to  a  Hat  i»()int  and  driven  tirmly  into  sockets  made 
by  strikin.ii' the  ax  d.  e}»ly  into  the  loo-,  and  instead 
of  ropes,  ce(hn'  v.  i'jit  ^,  were  used  for  lashinu'.  These 
had  l)een  roasted  in  ;  he  lire  until  tou^h  and  flexible, 
and  when  thus  treated  they  formed  a  uood  subslitut(» 
for  tin?  white  sailor's  marline  or  the  cow-boy's  picket 
rol)e. 

We  boarded  tins  lubberly  old  hulk  and  pulled  out 
up  the  north  shore  of  the  lake  just  as  tlie  morning 


AM)    nlllKi:    Hi  NIINd    .\1>V  K.N  Tt'lMlS. 


i  41 


' 


i     ■; 


,■       i. 

.  i 


U 


12^ 


CIii;iSI\(iS    I.\    TllK   CASCADKS 


Ifl 


flic  lirst  lioiir,  ])ut  we  li;i(l  Ixhmi  out  imoi'h  tlijiii  lliat 
ltMi.L!,th  ol"  liiiic  Im'I'oic!  av(^  saw  any.  Fiiuilly,  liow- 
ev«'i'.  Jilt*'!"  we  Imd  gone  ;i  mile  or  iiioie  up  the  lake 
shore,  I  saw  a,  lar^e  buck  goat  bi'owsing  among  the 
ci-ags  about  i'ou»'  liundredl'eet  above  us.  He  liad  not 
.seen  us,  and  dropj)ing  the  oar  1  caught  up  my  ritle. 
'I'he  men  l)a('ked  water,  and  as  tlie  raft  came  to  ;i 
Ntandslill,  I  sent  a  buHei  into  liim.  He  si)i'ang 
I'orwai'd,  h)st  his  footing,  can»e  l)ounding  and  crasli- 
ingto  the  foot  of  1h(^  mountain,  and  stopped,  stone 
(h'ad,  in  tliel)rush  at  the  watei'"s edge  not  nioi'e  than 
twenty  I'eet  J'roin  tile  I'aft.  We  puslied  ashore  and 
toolv  him  on  l)oard,  wlien  I  found,  to  my  disappoim 
ment.  tl)atl)otli  liorns  had  been  brolven  off  intlie  fiiJl, 
so  tliat  liis  he:id  was  wortliless  I'oi-  mounting. 

We  cruised  clear  ai'ound  tlie  lalve  tliat  (hivand 
could  not  lind'anotlier  goat.  In  tlie  jd'tei'iioon  it 
<'lou(hMl  up  and  s(»t  in  to  rain  heavily  again  in  the 
canon,  whil*.'  snow  fell  on  the  mountains  a  few  jiun 
dred  feet  above  us.  The  next  morning  T  went  u[)  a 
narrow  canon  to  the  noith,  and  ascending  a  high 
l)t'idv  Inuued  until  neai'ly  noon,  wlien  1  found  two 
nioi'e  goats,  a  female  and  he)'  khl  (nearly  full  gi'owi.), 
both  of  which  J  killed,  and  taking  the  skins  and  one 
ham  of  the  kid,  1  letuiiied  to  camp.  It  continued 
to  rain  at  fi'ecpient  intervals,  which  robbed  cami)  life 
and  hunting  of  much  of  their  charm,  sc  I  decided 
to  start  foi'  home  tlu'  following  morning.  In  the 
affernoon  I  rigged  a  hoolv  and  line,  cut  an  alder  pole, 
and  caught  live  line  trout,  the  largest  seventeen  and 
a  h;df  inches  long.  Seymour  speared  three  juore 
salmon  and  roasted  one  of  them,  so  that  we  had 
another  feast  of  lisji  that  night.     We  also  roasted 


!i 


a    leg  f,f    j,„.|t  f, 
.v„r,ls      ].,,,(,,.    "'  *'""■'*  •■^"■ai'ings,  „i„l  „  f.nv 


VfMii'  Ian 


word 


snage   don't 


s  as  oiirx. 


si'<:Mii    |(,   liav, 


as   many 


Lin 


a 


(( 


^^o;  English  too  .nncli.     Mai 

^^^llel•e  (lid  you  ]ear 
O,  I  woi'k 


!^<'  awful  tired  I 


earn 


n  it: 


yeai-,  and  work  on  boat 
i ere  did  the  boat 


m  pack  train  Tor  Hudson  I 


^Sh 


on«^  year 
run 


'  1 


><»3'  one 


/'' 


r.,"'""'"?/'r'^''^''<>""."li'=»aid. 


<i 


n 


!va; 


^VJieie  to,  Ahisl 
O,  1  diinno." 
How  I'ar  nortli?" 
O,   I  dunno.      Tal 


mout  of  ,Ie  ri 


\'er, 


Ive  seven  da  v.     \V 


go  to  de 


ii 


WJiat  rivers    What  ....„ 
O,  1  dunno  know  wliat  \ 


^vas  th«^  name  of  the  tow 


And  tJius  I  learned,   I 


ou  calJ  Vni. 


n 


/" 


that  lie  did   not  1 


n 


Sey 


imes 
'e  J 
nioiir 


'   '\v  continued  questioni 

know   or   remember  the   Kngj 

•isited.  but  that  'tl 


f  the  places  he  had 
•obably  in  Alaska.     U 


ish 

ley 

•l^vays  ai)pealed  to 


lat  1 


^  I 


le 


)•: 


Hi 

IV 


1  : 

*  I 


j:}() 


CKUISINliS    iX    'IIIK    CASCADKS 


could  not  liimsclf  iinswci-,  ;ni(l  Ji  qiK'stioii  or  I'cniark 
1li;il  ill  our  tou.iiin'  liad  taken  u  (1oz*mi  words  to 
expii^ss  Ik;  would  rcix'ut  ina  couuli,  a  throat -cleariiiu' 
sounti,  and  a  <iiunt  or  two.  Scynioui-'s  answn-  would 
1k'  i'»'tuiii('d  in  a  lialf  sneeze,  a  lisp,  a  supjiiessed 
whistle,  a  sli^iht  ,ii'i'(;an,  and  an  upt  ui'niu<i-  of  the  eye. 
'I'lieii  .lohii  would  look  thouuhtlul  while  IVainin^' 
the  answer  into  his  pigin  Ku,i;lish,  and  if  would 
come  l)a<'k,  for  instance,  soiueluiuL!,' like  this: 

"Seynjosayhe  tiid\  we  ketch  plenty  sheep  np  (hit 
l)ig' niountain.  on  de  to})"  Or,  "He  say  Ik;  tink 
niavl)e  w('  ii'et  i)h3nlv  <iroiise  down  de  creek.  Ti; 
moi'i'ow  we  don't  need  cariy  meat,''  etc  .lohn 
seemed  to  ren.-ird  Seymour  as  a  perfect  walkings 
cyclopedia  of  knowledge,  and,  in  fact,  he  was  well 
iufoi'Mied  on  woodcraft,  the  habits  of  hiivls  and 
auimals,  Indian  lore,  and  other  luattersjtertaining  to 
the  country  in  which  he  lived,  hut  outsideofthe.se 
liuiits  he  knew  much  less  than  .lohn. 

I  was  disgusted  with  his  jireieuded  inability  to 
speak  or  undtMstand  I'Jiglish,  fo)'  on  one  of  my 
foi'iiier  visits  to  I'm'  \  illage  I  had  Iward  him  s[)eak 
if,  and  Ik;  did  it  mu<'ii  better  than  .lohn  could, 
lieside,  Pean  had  told  me  that  Sevmour  had 
attended  school  at  the  mission  on  the  Fi'azer  rive;-, 
and  could  even  rewd  and  write,  but  now  that  he  had 
an  intei"i>i'eter  he  considered  it  smart,  just  as  a  gi'<'at 
many  Indians  do,  to  all'ect  an  utter  ignorance  of  our 
language.  I  asked  him  why  he  did  nottJilk;  told 
him  T  knew  he  could  talk,  and  reminded  liim  that  I 
had  heard  him  s[)eak  good  Knglisi):  that  1  knev>'  Ik; 
liad  l)e('n  to  school,  elc.  lie  simply  shook  his  Ik  'id 
and  iii'unted.  Then  I  told  him  he  was  ;i  boih'<l down 


•^^■"  <>nn:u  invrrv,, 


M>\  j;\T(Ki;s. 


^""'  ^"  '•"■'    thus.   ,,w    ,1,,. 

'■''•'"'•■"•  ^"•••"•'••>"v.M,  n,-,M  his  (""11  """';  '''■'"'"'' 


'il'l  ni.ik,.  In,i,^,.|| 


'■'M"n,.Mnn.^  Hk,        7,,   ,::;: ''V' ■^•.^'"■'■''•■.n«v.l 

'"■"•■'MOMS,    l,.n  ',,"■''    "''r'"'-'"--      ""   «--n,l 

•^"•■"■p.,..-sr n  .;„;::  :>■''■■■'•  ■^' ■^"-'•t, 

'''''''"■'■'■'■•■M<>p;.in./,      I,        •■"'''•' :7'''''-'"'-i^ 


II 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


TER  jiinkiiig  Ji  ln^aity  breakfast  r»n 
m  /  Roc'kv  Mountain  kid,  salmon,  and  sea 
euits,  we  began  our  return  journey 
own  the  creek  in  a  drizzling  rain. 
Our  burdens  were  inci-eased  hv  the 
weight  of  the  three  goat  skins,  and 
the  walking  was  rendei'ed  still 
more  precarious  than  before  l)y 
the  h)gs,  grass,  soil,  pine  needles, 
"and  everytliing  else  liaA'ing  become 
so  tlioroughly  watersoaked.  If  we 
had  had  hard  climbing  up  the  steep  pitches  on  our 
outbound  cruise,  we  liad  it  still  harder  now.  ^Ve 
coidd  not  stick  in  our  toe  nails  as  ^\ell  now  as 
before,  and  even  if  we  stuck  in  our  heels  going 
down  a  hill,  thev  would  not  stay  stuck  any  better 
than  a  second-hand  postage-stamp.  I  ren  eni- 
bered  one  hill,  or  canon  wall,  that  in  the  ascent 
made  us  a  gi'eat  deal  of  hard  work,  and  much 
X)erturbation  of  spirit,  because  it  was  steep, 
rocky,  and  had  very  few  bushes  on  it  that  we 
could  use  as  derricks  l)y  which  to  raise  ourselves. 
I  dreaded  the  descent  of  this  hill,  now  that  the 
rocks  were  wet,  but  we  made  it  safely.  Not  so, 
however,  the  next  one  we  attempted;  it  was  not  so 
rocky  as  the  other,  and  had  a  goodly  bed  of  blue 
clay,  with  a  sliidlow  (M)vering  of  vegetable  mold  for 

mi) 


A\D    OTIIKU    m'.\TIX(i    ADVKXTT'KKS. 


VA'S 


a  surface,  with  a  little  grass  and  ji  few  weeds      It 
was   very   steep,   I  think  about  wliat  an  architect 
woiid  call  a  three-quarter  pitch,  but  we  ess.-.ved  it 
•oldly  and  fearlessly.     Seymour  was  in  the' h'ad 
his  faithful  partisan,  John,  followed,  and  1  consti- 
tuted the  tail  end  of  the  procession.     We  had  just 
got  Avell  oA-er  the  brow,  Avlien  the  end  of  a  dry  hem- 
lock  stick  caught  in  the  mansard  roof  of  my  left  foot- 
the  other  end  was  fast  in  the  ground,  aiid,\liouoh  I 
tried   to   free   myself,    l,oth   ends   stuck;   the  stick 
played  a  lone  hand,  but  it  raised  me  clear  out  in 
spite  of  my  struggles.     I  uttered  a  mournful  groan 
as  I  saw  myself  going,  but  was  as  helpless  as  ii  ten- 
derfoot on  a  bucking  cayuse.     My  foot  was  lifted 
till  my  heel  punched  the  small  of  my  back,  and  my 
other  foot  slid  out  from  under  me;  I  spread  out  like 
a  step  ladder,  and  clawed  the  air  for  succor,  but 
there  was  not  a  bush  or  branch  within  icacli     I  think 
I  went  ten  feet  before  I touche<l  theearth  again,  and 
then  I  landed  head  iirst  among  John's  lec-s'     He  s-it 
down  on  the  back  of  my  neck  like  a  trip-hann)H'r 
and  we  both  assaulted  Seymour  in  the  rear  with 
such  violence  as  to  knock  him  clear  out.     P\)r  a  iVnv 
seconds  we  were  the  worst  mixed  up  communitv  that 
ever  lived,  I  reckon.     Arms,  h^i-.s,  o-uns,  hats,  packs 
an(,  human  forms   were  mingled  in  one   writhin<" 
S(piirniing,  sui-ing  mass,    and  groans,  shouts,  aiS 
imprecations,  in  English,  Chinook,  and  Scowlitz,  rent 
tlie  uir.     Ex  ery  hand  was  grabbing  for  somethino-  to 
stop  its  owner,  but  there  were  no  friendly  stoppers 
within  reach;  if  one  caught  a  weed,   or^i  stunted 
.junipti-,  it  faded  away  frcmi  his  heivuleau  giasp  like 
dry  grass  before  a  prairie  lire.     I  seemed  to  have  the 


I  ; 


f ' 


hi. 


i\ 


TKYINd  TO  <;KT  Ur. 


Axn  oTiiKii  iir\ri.\(;   .\i>\i:Nrri;i;s. 


i:r) 


liin'hcst  initial  vt'loclty  of  Jiny  iikmiiImt  of  tlf  <'Xi)e- 
<iition,  5111(1,  though  in  th<'  raw  i\t  Ihc  stait,  I  was  a, 
full  length  ahead  at  th»;  liiiish.  AVe  iiiially  all 
brought  up  in  a  confused  mass  at  the  footof  the  hill, 
and  it  took  some  time  for  eaeh  man  toexti'icate  him- 
self from  the  pile,  and  i-eelaini  Jiis  ])i'opei't yfrom  lh<' 
\vre(;k.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  however,  lait  little 
damage  was  done.  There  was  a  skiniK'd  iios(%  a 
l)ruised  knee  or  tw(j,  a  s])i'ained  wiist.  and  every- 
body was  i)ainted  with  mud.  All  were,  however, 
able  to  travel,  and  after  tJiat,  when  going  down  steep 
liills,  the  Siwaslies  kept  looking  baek  to  see  if  I 
were  comiivg. 

We  x>(^i'f<>J"nied  several  dangerous  feats  that  day 
and  the  next,  walking  jdong  smootli,  barkless  logs, 
that  lay  aci'oss  some  of  the  deej)  gorges;  in  places 
we  were  thirty  feet  or  more  above  the  groun<l,  or 
rather  rocks,  A\liere  a  slij)  would  have  resulted  in 
instant  death.  3>Iv  hairfrecnienti  v  stood  on  end,  what 
little  1  have  left,  but  John  and  Sevniourahvavs  went 

~  ft  » 

.safely  across  and  I  could  not  alford  to  be  outdomun 
courage  by  these  miserable,  fish-ejiting  iSiwashes,  so 
I  followed  wherever  they  led,  AVe  read  that  the 
wicked  stand  on  slippery  i)laces,  l)ut  I  cjin  see  these 
wicked  ])eople,  and  go  theui  about  ten  l)etter,  for  I 
have  stood,  and  even  walked,  on  many  of  these  Avet 
logs,  and  they  are  about  the  all-liredest  slipjx'iyest 
things  extant,  and  yet  1  have  not  fallen  off.  1  fell 
only  that  onc<',  Avheii  I  got  my  foot  in  the  trap,  and 
that  would  have  d()\vne(l  a.  woo'lenman,  .hist  before 
going  into  camp  that  night,  .John  shot:  a  gi-ouse, 
but  we  were  all  too  tired  and  hungry  to  cook  it  then, 
and  made  our  meal  on  cold  kid,   Jish,  and  biscuits. 


■p 


TliYINtt  TO  GET  DO\V\N. 

(l:W) 


m 


■  h 


AM)    o'lIIKi;    II|-NII\(;    A  DV  KNITKKS 


\:n 


After  suppHi',  liowcvci',  .loliu  drc-iscd  tlie  l)ir(l  ;iii<l 
laid  it.  iisidii  lor  l)i'('akf:ist,  saying'  we  would  cacli 
liave  a  piece  of  it  tlieii.  The  lain  ceased  falliliu'  at 
dark,  and  tiie  .stars  came  out,  which  ,u'reatly  revived 
our  droo[»iu^'  spirits.  We  uathered  lar.L-e  (piantities 
of  diT  wood  and  hark,  so  we  were  ahl«^  to  jveep  :i 
uood  lire  all  ni.uht.  1  drew  from  a  half-rottt'n  lo,u\  a 
liat.  slal)dike  piece  of  i)iu<s  which  at  lii'st  1  fulled  to 
reco<j,ni/e.     John  saw  it  and  said: 

'Miood.     Dafsheech." 

'•  Beech,"  I  said.  ''  ^^hJ,  there's  no  beech  in  this 
country  '' 

"'^No,  beech  wood,  make  <j:()od  fii'e,  good  kindle, 
good  what  you  call  hini^     (rood  torch.""' 

''Oh,"  1  said,  "pitch  ])ine,  ehf' 

"  Yas,  beech  pine."  And  this  was  as  near  as  he 
could  get  to  pitch. 

About  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  it  commenced 
to  rain  heavily  again,  an<l  the  poor  Indians  were  soon 
in  a  pitable  condition,  with  their  blankets  and  cloth- 
ing wet  thronuh.  Thev  sat  ui)  the  remainder  of  the 
night,  feeding  the  lire  to  keej)  it  alive  and  them- 
selves warm,  for  they  had  neither  canvas  or  rubber 
coats,  or  any  other  kind  of  waterjjroof  clothing. 
They  put  u\>  some  of  the  longer  pieces  of  the  bark  we 
had  gathered  for  fuel,  and  made  a  passable  shelter, 
but  it  was  so  small,  and  leaked  so  badly,  that  it 
was  far  from  comfortable.  1  pitied  the  poor  fel- 
lows, but  had  nothing  I  could  give  or  even  share 
with  them  for  shelter.  1  got  u[)  ;it  liv<»  o'clock,  and 
we  commenced  i)reparations  for  breakfast.  I  told 
John  he  had  better  cook  tlu.'  grouse,  but  he  shook 
his  head,  and  said  sadiv: 


i:}s 


ri:risi\(;s  i\  'i"iii;  (  ascadks 


l\     ! 


"  Scyino,   lie  s|»il<'  (Ic  urolisr." 

"  How  (lid  ]u»  do  tlint^'"  1  iiHiiiiied, 

"  He  s;iy  |>nl  liim  on  slick  by  tire  to  cook  in  do 
niylit.  Then  lie  uo  lo  sleep  niid  stick  burn  oil", 
(irouse  I'mII  in  de  liie  and  bni'ii." 

''Tlnit's  too  thin,"  1  snid,  '•  Sevmonr  cooked 
that  grouse  and  ate  it  while  you  and  I  were  asleep." 

Seymoni'  ulared  at  nie,  ))ut  hnd  not  the  coni'a.u'e  to 
resent  or  deiiv  the  ciiaru(\  An  Indian  does  not  let 
sle^'p  interfere  with  his  ai)i)etite;  he  eats  whatever 
there  is  tirst.  and  then  sleeps.  I  divided  the  last  of 
the  bacon  and  biscuits  e(pudly  between  us,  and  with 
Ji  remnant  of  cold  l^roiled  salmon,  we  eked  out  a 
scant  breakfast  on  which  to  be^in  a  (hiy's  work. 
John  was  clawinii'  some  white  greasy  substance  from 
a  tin  can  with  his  hngers,  and  spreadiu,<>:  it  on  his 
biscuits  with  the  same  tools.  He  passed  the  can  to 
me,  and  said: 

''Have  bultaT' 

"No,  thanks."  1  answen-d;  ••  1  seldom  eat  butter 
in  camp." 

"  1  lik«'  him  all  time,"  he  ivplied;  "I  never  git 
widout  butta  foi'  brade  at  h(>me."     This  1)V  wav  of 

«  « 

informing  me  that  he  knew  what  good  living  was, 
and  i)racticed  it  at  home.  Tt  rained  heavily  all  day, 
and  oui'  tramj)  thi'ough  the  jungle  was  most  dreary 
and  disagreeable. 

"  Tlie  day  was  dark,  and  cold,  and  dreary; 
It  rained,  and  the  wind  was  never  weary." 

About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  sat  down 
to  rest  on  the  bank  of  the  creek.  We  hiul  been  theie 
but  a  few  nunutes,  when  a  good  sized  black  bear 
came   sluunbling  along  up  the  bank  of  the  creek, 


v*4  A.vi)  oriiKK  iirvnxa  Ai)vi:\TruKs. 


i:}'.) 


lo()l\.iii,L!;  Tor  salmon.  Tlie  Jiuliaiis  saw  liim  when 
!i  liiuidrt'd  yards  or  nioi'o  away,  and  llattent'd  ilicni- 
s«*lv»'s  out  on  tlie  ^I'ouiid  to  awail  liis  nearer 
uppioach.  1  raisetl  my  rille  lo  my  sliuuldei',  but  lliey 


EX  F.y^ILLE 

both  motioned  me  to  wait,  tlri^  he  was  yet  too  far 
away.  I  disregarded  tlieir  ii. junction,  however,  and 
promptly  himU^d  an  ex])ress  l)ullet  in  the  bear  s 
))i'eiist.  He  reai'ed,  uttered  a  smotliei-ed  groan, 
turned,  made  one  jump,  and  fell  dead.  xS'ow  arose 
the  question  of  saving  his  skin;  it  was  late,  and  we 
were  yet  three  miles  from  tli<'  Indian  village;  to  skin 


140 


CIM'lSlN'(iS    IN    Tin:   CASCADKS. 


I 


the  bear  llicii  iiit'jiur  to  cMmi*  lli«'iv  I'ortlu'iiiylit,  and 
astlie  rain  still  caiut' down  ill  a  ,st<'acly,  lu'avy  slu'ct,  1 
at  once  decided  tliat  I  would  not  stay  out  there 
another  ni^ht  for  the  best  bear  slvin  in  tlie  countiy. 
Seymour  antl  .John  held  a  short  consultation,  and 
then  John  said  they  would  come  bjick  and  get  th(^  skin 
next  day,  and  take  it  in  lieu  of  the  money  I  owed  them 
for  their  services.  We  struck  a  bargain  in  about  a 
uiinute,  and  hurried  on,  arriving  at  the  village  just  as 
it  grew  dark,  ^fy  rubber  coat  and  high  rul)b('r  boots 
had  kept  me  comparatively  dry,  but  the  poor  Indians 
were  wet  to  the  skin. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


IN  ai'i'iviim-  at  Clu'luills  John  kiiidlv 
iiiviti'd  me  to  stop  over  ni^ht  witli  liini, 
l)ut  I  declined  with  tiiaidvs.  I  went  into 
his  liouse,  howevei',  to  wait  whih^  lie  got 
leadv  to  talve  me  down  to  I3a river's.  It 
was  the  same  type  of  home  that  nearly 
1  all  thes"  Indhins  have  —  a  large  claj)- 
board  building  about  eight  feet  high,  with  smoked 
salmon  hung  eveiywhere  and  a  liie  in  the  centre 
of  the  room,  which,  by  the  v,i\y,  was  more  of  a 
smoke  than  lire,  cniing  the  winter  ])rovender.  A 
pile  of  wood  lay  in  one  corner  of  the  room,  some 
empty  barrels  m  another,  lish-nets  were  liung  in  still 
another,  and  the  family  lived,  princii)ally,  in  the 
fourth.  John  lives  with  his  fatli(n'-in-law,  mother-in- 
law%  two  brothei's-in-law,  one  sister-in-law,  his  wife 
and  three  papooses.  Blankets,  pots,  tinware  and 
grub  of  various  kinds  were  piled  up  promiscuously  in 
this  living  corner,  and  the  little  undresscHl  kids  hov- 
ered and  shivered  around  the  dull  lire,  suffering  from 
the  cold.  We  were  soon  in  the  canoe  again,  en  route 
to  the  steamboat  landing,  where  we  arrived  soon  after 
dark.  I  regretted  to  i)art  with  John,  for  I  had  found 
him  a  good,  faithful  servant  and  staunch  friend.  I 
was  glad  to  get  rid  of  Seymour,  however,  for  1  had 
learned  that  he  was  a  contemptible  sneak,  and  told 
him  so  in  as  many  words. 

(141) 


ill 


li! 


' 


142 


CRCrsiNfiS    IX    'IlIH   CASCADKS 


En  ronfehonw  1  h:i(L  ulxmt  two  lioiirs  to  Avait  at 
Port  Moody  rorthe])oat.  Tlieie  were  great  numbers 
of  gr(  'cs  and  ducks  in  tlie  bay,  and  I  asked  the  dock 
foreman  if  there  was  auy  rule  against  shooting  tliere. 
He  said  lie  guessed  not ;  he  had  never  seen  anyone 
shooting  thei'e,  but  he  guessed  there  wouldn't  beany 
objection.  I  got  out  my  rilie  and  two  boxes  of  cart- 
ridges and  opened  on  the  birds.  The  ducks  left  at, 
once,  but  the  grebes  sought  safety  in  diving,  and  as 
soon  as  the  fusillade  began  a  number  of  gulls  came 
hovering  around,  a[)i)arently  to  learn  the  cause  of 
th'*  racket.  I  had  fine  sport  between  the  two,  and  a 
large  audience  to  enjoy  it  witli  me.  In  ten  minutes 
from  the  time  I  commenced  shooting  all  the  clerks 
in  the  dock  oHice,  all  tlie  freight  hustlers  in  the 
warehouse,  all  the  railroad  section  men,  the  ticket- 
agent  and  baggage- master,  numbering  at  least 
twenty  men  in  the  aggr(\gare,  were  clustered  around 
me,  and  tiieir  c(miments  on  mv  riile  and  shooting 
were  extremely'  amusing.  Not  a  man  i"  the  party 
had  ever  before  seen  a  Winchester  express,  and  the 
I'acket  it  made,  the  way  in  which  the  balls  plowed 
U})  the  Avater,  and  the  way  ti».^  birds,  when  hit,  van- 
ished into  thin  air  and  a  few  featliers,  were  myste- 
ries far  beyond  their  jjower  lo  solve.  At  the  first  lull 
in  the  liring  ludf  a  dozen  of  them  rushed  Mp  and 
Avanted  to  examine  the  riile,  the  fancy  finish  and 
combination  sights  of  which  were  as  profoundly 
sti"ange  to  them  as  to  the  beniglited  Indians.  They 
soon  handed  it  l)ack  to  me,  however,  with  the  I'equest 
to  resume  hostilities  ag.dnst  the  birds  ;  they  pre- 
ferred to  see  the  old  tiung  work  rather  than  to  handle 
it.     The  gidls  were  soaring  in  close,  and  six  shots, 


^if^. 


AXI)    OTIIHli    HFXTIXC;    ADVKXTrui; 


143 


rapidly  delivered,  dr()i)i)ed  tliree  of  tIi.'mi  into  the 
water,    nmtiliited    beyond    reco«-iiitioii.     Tiiis    wus 
the  climax;  tile  idea  of  killino-  birds  on  ih-.  wino-, 
with  a  rille,  w;i.s   something   tliese  uwii  Jmd  never 
before  heard  of,  nnd  iwo  oi-  three  examined  my  cart- 
ridges   to   see   if   they  werc^  not  ](wded  \vith\shot, 
instead  of  bidlets.     When  they  found  this  suspicion 
Avas   gionndh'ss  tliey  were  beside  themselves   with 
wonder  and  admiration  of  the  strange  arm.     As  a 
mattn-  of  I'act,  it  reqiunnl  no  particidar  slvili  to  idll 
the  gulls  on  the  wing,  for  they  were  the  large  gray 
variety,  and  frequently  came  within  tw<'nty  or  thirty 
feet  of  me,  so  that  anyone  who  could  kill  them  with 
a  shotgun  couhl  do  so  with  a  rifle. 

Finally  the  steamer  came  in  and  I  went  aboard. 
The  ti-ain  arrived  soon  after  and  several  of  its  passen- 
gers boarded  the  boat.  The  gulls  were  now  hover- 
ing about  the  steamer,  picking  up  whatever  i)articles 
of  food  were  thrown  overboard  from  ihe  cook-room. 
One  old  Irishman,  who  had  come  in  on  tJie  train 
from  th(^  intei'ior  wilds,  walked  out  on  the  (piar'ter 
deck  and  looking  at  them  intently  for  a  IV-w  minutes, 
turned  to  me  and  iiKpiircd  : 

'•  Pliwat  kind  of  bui'ds  is  thim — geese  ('' 
''  \<'s,"'  I  said,  '•  ihim's  geese,  1  i-eckon." 
"Well,  be  gorry,   if  I   imd  a  gnn  here  I'd  shoot 
someo^thim";aml  h.   ucnt  and  told  his  companions 
"there  was  a  Hock   .1'  the  tamest  wild  geese  out  tliare 
ye  iver  sawed." 

The  return  journey  to  Portland  was  without  inci- 
dent. There  I  board.'d  the  steamer  and  si)ent 
another  delightful  day  on  the  bi-oad  bosom  of  the 
Columbia  river,  winding  iq)  among  the  grand  basaltic 


Hi 


144 


CliUlSI.NGS   IX    Till-:    CA>LADK8 


I: 


j!  ; 

III 


AM)   OTIIKK   IllNTINti    ADVKN'Jr  liliS. 


145 


cliffs  and  toweiiiiii;  luoiiiitain  peaks  of  the  Cascade 
Range.  Again  the  little  camera  came  into  reciuisi- 
tion,  and  though  the  day  was  ch)iuly  and  blusterous, 
though  snow  fell  at  frequerit  intervals,  and  though 
the  steamer  trembled  like  a  reed  shaken  by  the  wind, 
I  made  a  dozen  or  more  exposures  on  the  most  inter- 
esting and  beautiful  subjects  as  we  passed  them,  and 
to  my  surprise  many  came  out  good  pictures.  Most 
of  them  lack  detail  in  the  deeper  shadows,  but  the 
results  altogether  show  that  had  the  day  been  clear 
and  bright  all  would  linve  been  perfect.  In  short,  it 
is  possible  with  this  dry-plate  process  to  make  good 
j)ictures  from  a  moving  steamboat,  or  even  from  a 
railway  train  going  at  a  high  rate  of  speed.  I  made 
three  pictures  from  a  Northern  Paciti(^  train,  conung 
througli  the  Bad  Lands,  when  running  twentv-hve 
miles  an  hour,  and  though  slightly  blurred  in  the 
near  foreground,  the  butics  and  bluffs,  a  hundred 
yards  and  farther  away,  are  as  shai'i>  as  if  I  had  been 
standing  on  the  gro'  d  and  the  camera  on  a  tripod; 
and  a  snaj)  shot  at  a  [»rairie-d(»g  town — just  as  the 
train  slowed  on  a  heavy  gradf  -shows  several  of  the 
little  rodents  in  various  poses,  sonic  of  th  in  appar- 
ently trying  to  look  pretty  while  having  their  i)ict- 
ures  took." 


J'<«, 


\ 


10 


I 


fj^  -1 


^Sr' 


CriAi'TKR   XIX. 

stoMpcd    olV     Mt    '/'-J. 
Spokaiit'  I'^ills 
on      iiiy     wny  ij^c- 
lonic,  for  :i  tVw  '^^'^i 
(hiys'  (It't'T  hull  -  - 
-  inu\  inul   thoiiuh 

thilt  I'.'u'iou  be  iioi  cxuclly  in  the  ('ns- 
(.'ades,  it  is  so  ucar  tliat  a,  IVw  points  in 
rvhirion   to    llu'   sport  there  may  be 
Lo        ailmissible  in  connection  with  tlie 
.         ,^    >.-^     -^ru-'       t^^^>i'*\ii"<>i»,i;'   narrative.       I    iiad 
'^ff'f'A^^XuJ^'ii''  -     advised  niv  u-ood  friend   Dr. 


;^V-.       i)hnined   b)r  ni(>  a    imnt- 
in,u'  trip.    On  the  niorn- 
^.,   ,      uiix    after    my    arrival 
'/SS-V     his  brotiier-in'-hiw,  :Mr. 
^V/^Ji  •       '•    '''•    -'''H^'i'son,     took 
i^-!    ine  u[)  behind  a  j>air  of 
/'    ^:()od      roadsters      and 
1    tlrove     to     Johnston's 
j   ranch,    eiuliteen    nuh's 
■^   from  the  falls,  and  near 
the  foot  of  >rou]it  Carle- 
ton,  where  wc  hoped  to  lind 
plenty    o\'    deer.        We     hunted 


'l::^ 


S  >■'■ 


ANH  (»i'iii:k  m  NiiN(i    \i)V]'Nrri:i:s. 


i-r 


rtruiii  iioint' Mt  that  time  on  Mccoiiiit  <il"  :i  hiisiiu'ss 
pii^aut'iiu'iil.  but  Mr.  .loluistoii.  with  chnrMctcristic 
Wt^tei'ii  liospitiilit y  and  kliulncss,  said  I  ninst 
not  leave  witliout  a  shot,  and  so  honkt'd  u\)  his 
team  and  drove  nie  twenty-live  miles  raither 
into  the  monntains,  to  a  ]>la»'e  where  he  saiil  we 
wonld  snrely  tlnd  i)l»'nty  of  liaine.  On  the  way 
in  we  picked  up  old  l^illy  Cowuill.  a  famous  deer 
Imnter  in  this  reuion.  and  took  Inm  ah)nu' as  ii'uide. 


148 


(•lU:iSIN<;s    IN    TIM-:    CASCADKS 


We  stopped  at  Br(x)ks*  sta^^e  raucli,  on  tlie  Colvillr 
road  to  rest  the  t^'ani,  and  tlie  propiietor  <iave  us  an 
amusing  account  of  some  experiments  lie  iiad  been 
making  in  shooting  buckshot  from  a  niuzzledoading 
shotgun,  lie  had  ma(h'  some  little  bags  of  buck- 
skin, just  laige  enough  to  hold  twelve  No.  2  buck- 
shot, and  aftei'  tilling  them  had  sewed  up  the  ends.. 
He  shot  a  few  of  them  at  a  tree  sixtv  vards  awav, 
but  they  failed  to  spread  and  all  went  into  one  hole. 
Then  he  ti"ied  leaving  the  fi-ont  end  of  the  bag  open, 
and  still  they  acted  as  a  solid  ball;  so  he  had  to  aban- 
don the  scheme,  and  loaded  the  charge  loose,  as  of  old. 
He  concluded,  lif)wever,  not  to  tire  this  last  load  "t 
the  tai'get,  and  hung  the  gun  up  in  its  usual  place. 
A  few  days  later  he  heard  the  dog  barking  in  the 
woods  a  short  distance  fi'om  the  house,  andsii[)posed 
it  had  treed  a  porcui)ine.  Mr.  Brooks' brother,  who 
was  visiting  at  the  time,  took  the  gun  and  went  out 
to  kill  the  game,  whatever  it  might  be.  On  reaching 
the  phu.'e,  he  found  a  riilfed  grouse  sitting  in  a  tree, 
at  which  he  tired.  The  ranchman  said  he  heard  the 
report,  and  his  bi-other  soon  came  back,  cariying  a 
badly-mutilated  bird;  he  threw  it  into  th(^  kitchen, 
and  i)ut  the  gun  away;  then  he  sat  down,  looked 
thoughtful,  and  kept  silent  for  a  longtime.  Finally 
lie  blurted  out: 

"Say,  Tom;  that  gun  got  away  fi'om  me." 
"  How  was  that  i''  (pieried  the  ranchman. 
"  I  don't  know:  ])ut  1  shot  pretty  near  straight  up 
at  the  gr()us(\  and  somehow  the  gun  slipped  oil'  my 
shoulder  and  done  this."  And  opening  his  coat  he 
showed  his  vest,  (me  side  of  which  was  split  from 
top  to  bottom;  lie  then  took  out  a  handful  of   his 


ii.!-> 


A.vn  „•,■„,,,.  ,„-.v„.,.,,  .unjCNTriiKs,         J4u 

c  J  t  lM,,,,shH,Uhe,li,,l  ,„ve,l  i„,  and,  l„.  ,■„,„' 

ge.u  ;  II  „„xed  „„.     Tile  n,„el,n,„n  ,sni,l  l„.  ^.,,,.,1 

e  .1(1  i.ut  on,,  of  the  bn.'k.ski,,   I,„ks  of  sCt  into 

iat  |,a.,,,,.  „„„  u„.,Mi„.  thnt  iaet,  la.l  a,    ed    t 

loose  eharge.     He  said  he  fe-.koned  twentv-fo  ,    Xo 

2  i.u.kshot  n,ade  too  heavy  a  load  foraneis-ht-iKanKl 

"hi«h  «a.s  to  he  on.-  eanii,.  at  three  <,\.|ook  in  the 

d    hesot  eooknig,  eating,  an,lgalherin,«-wood.  Old 

JSdIv   proved  a,  very  interesting  eharaeter;  l,e  i.  a 

M.>;i;le,  qu,et,  honest,  nnpretention.,  old  nun  md 

'"like  most  backwoodsmen,  a  veritable  ..ow!!rd  « 

nd   H,n"'''i?"'"'  ^''"*'.''<'"-«™>'-  t"a,lniit  it  franklv, 
and   tluis  disarms  eritid.sm.      In  faet.  his  freqneni 


amusing.      He  savs 


admissKm  of  this  weakness  is  „.,„.,,„j,,      ^.e  savs 
liat  lor  tear  of  getting  lost  he  does  not  Tike  to  go  off 

«tonnd,  .so  that  he  ,,,«  track  himself  back  into  cam,, 
^em?f :  ™;'""""'^'*'^'"  l-.y  that  is  as  mode  1 

tS;/  A  t  ,V'""  1°^"  *<*  «""l'a.i(l  he  soon  gets 
repe  Ui^i  t  '"  f,'""' ^""'^  *at  night,  worth?  of 
ont     ind 'he  /■''"°;"'-'  '"''^  """  '•«"i"'''^'l  I'i-" 

tint  ltd  T-  T      '  "'  ^"'  '"'''"^-  ™°^i««t'y. 

that  he   didn  t  know  as    we  cared  for  anv  bear 


Stories.     But  we  suid 


and 


u 


urged  tlie  recital. 


we  were  very  fond  of  them, 


Well,  then,"  he  said,  -if 


you  will  wait  a  minute, 


I 


mo 


CKUISINOS   IX   TIIK   ('AS(AI)KS 


3  ' 


I'll  take  51  drink  oL'  water  lirst  and  tlicn  Y\\  tell  it  to 
you,"  and  he  laughed  a  kind  ol'  boyish  titter,  and 
began: 

"  Well,  nie  and  three  otiier  Tellers  was  ui»  noi'th 
in  the  Colville  countiT,  huntin\  and  all  the  other 
fellows  was  erazv  to  kill  a  bear.  I  didn't  want  to 
kill  no  bear,  and  didn't  expert  to.  I'm  as't'eard  as 
death  of  a  beai',  and  hain't  no  use  I'oi' 'em.  All  I 
wanted  to  kill  was  a  deci-.  The  other  fellers,  tliey 
wanted  to  kill  somed(>er,  too,  but  they  wanted  bear 
the  worst.  So  one  mornin'  we  all  started  out,  and 
the  other  fellers  they  took  the  best  huntin'  ground, 
and  said  I'd  better  go  down  along  the  creek  and  see 
if  1  couldn't  kill  some  giouse,  for  they  didn't  believe 
I  could  kill  anything  bigger'n  that;  and  1  said,  all 
right,  and  started  oit"  (h)wn  t'.ie  creek.  Piii'ty  soon  T 
come  to  an  old  null  that  wasn't  runidn'  then.  And 
when  1  got  purty  near  to  the  mill  1  set  down  on  a 
log,  fori  didn't  think  it  was  worth  while  to  go  any 
furder,  for  I  didn't  think  I  would  tind  any  game 
down  the  creek,  and  1  didn't  care  much  whether  I 
did  or  not.  \Vell,  I  heaid  a  kind  of  a  jacket  in  the 
mill,  and  durned  if  there  wasn't  a  big  black  bear 
right  in  the  mill.  And  I  watched  him  a  litth^  bit, 
and  he  started  out  towards  nie.  And  T  said  to  my- 
self, says  1,  VlVow  15illy,  here's  your  chance  to  kill 
a  bear.' 

"I  hadn't  never  killed  no  bear  before,  nor  never 
seed  one  before,  and  durned  il'  1  wasn't  skeered 
nearl  v  to  death.  ]5ut  I  thouiiht  there  wasn't  no  use 
of  runnin',  for  I  knowed  he  could  inn  faster' n  I 
coukl,  so  1  took  out  my  kidf'e  and  conunenced  cut- 
tin'  down  the  brush  in  front  of  me,  for  I  wanted  to 


AXl)   OTIIKIJ    |||\Tr.\(;    A  DV  KXTfUKS. 


l.")l 


makfMislmivslior  if  1  (lid  shoot.  U   I  could.     And 
the  heiir,    he  come  out  of  the  mill  jind  riiivd  up,  :iiid 
put  liis     paws  on   a  loo-  ;,nd  looked  at  mr,    and    I 
said   fo   niysclf.  says   J,    '  Now  Billy,    this  is   vour 
time  to  slioot";  l)ut  I  wasn't  I'eady  to  shoot  yit.     They 
was  (me  more  hush  I  want.vl  to\'ut  out  oi'  tlie  way 
before  [  sliot,  so  I  cutif  olf  and  ]aid(h)wn  mv  knife, 
and  then  1  took  up  my  ouu  and  tiled  to  take  aim  at 
his   ))ieast,   but    doooonedif   I  didn't    shake   so   I 
couldn't  see  the  sights  at  all.     And  I    thouoht  one 
time  I  wouldn't  shoot,  and  ilicii  I  knowed  the  other 
fellers  would  lau-h  at  me  if  1  told  'em  I  seed  a  bear 
and   didn't   shoot  at  him,  and  besick-s  I  was  afraid 
some  of'em  was  up  on  the   hillside   lookin'  at  me 
then.     So  I  just  said  to  myself,  says  I,    ^  Now  P,illy, 
you're  goin'  to  geteat  up  if  you  don't  kill  Jiim,  but 
you  might  as  well  be  eat  up  as  to  l)e  laughed  at.' 
So  I  jist  took  the  best  aim  I  could  for  shakin',  aii' 
sliet  both  eyes  air   pulled. 

''Well,  I  think  the  bear  must  a  begin  lo  git  down 
jist  as  r  pulled,  for  1  tore  lii«  lower  jaw  off  and  shot 
a  l)ig  hole  through  one  side  of  his  neck.  He  howled 
and  roared  and  rolled  around  there  awhile  and  then 
he  got  still.  I  got  round  where  I  could  see  him,  after 
he  quit  kickin',  })ut  I  was  afeared  to  go  up  to  him, 
so  1  shot  two  more  bullets  through  his  head  to  make 
sure  of  him.  And  th<Mi  I  set  down  and  waited  a  long 
while  to  see  if  he  mo\('d  any  more;  for  I  was  afeard 

he  mightn't  be  dead  yit,  ai;d  might  be  playin' i)ossum, 
jist  to  get  ahold  of  me.  But  he  didn't  move  no  more,' 
so  I  went  up  to  him  with  my  gun  cocked  and  ])ointed 
at  his  head,  so  if  he  did  move  T  could  give  him  anothei- 
one  right  quick.    An'  then  I  pum-hed  him  a  little  with 


I 


il'^< 


f\ 


\r)2 


(•in[siN«,>  i.\  'I'm-:  cascadks. 


my  gun,  but  luMlidn't  stir.  An'  wlien  1  Touiid  he 
was  real  dead  I  took  iiiv  knil'e  and  cut  off  one  of  his 
chiAvs,  an*  tlicn  I  went  baek  to  camp,  the  Inggest 
feelin'  oi<l   cuss   you  ever  seed. 

''Well,  arter  while  the  otiier  I'ellers  they  all  conu' 
in,  lookin'  niiuhtv  blue,  Tor  they  hadn't  anv  of 'eui 
kill«'(l  a  thing,  an'  when  I  told 'em  I'd  killed  a  bear, 
they  wouldn't  believe  it  till  I  showed  'em  the  claw. 
An'  then  they  wouldn't  believe  it,  neither,  for  they 
thought  I'd  bought  the  claw  of  some  In jin.  And  they 
wouldn't  believe  it  at  all  till  they  wemt  out  with  me 
and  seed  the  bear  and  helped  skin  'ini,  and  cut  'ini 
np,  and  pack  'im  into  camp.  An'  they  was  the  dog- 
gondest,  disapi)ointedest  lot  of  fellers  you  ever  se»(l, 
for  we  hunted  five  da  vs  longer,  an'  naivone  of 'em 
got  to  kill  a  bear  nor  even  see  one.  They  thought  I 
was  the  ])Oorest  huntei'  and  the  biggest  coward  in  the 
lot,  but  I  was  the  only  one  that  killed  a  bear  that 
clip.' 


n 


CHAPTER  \X. 


E  wciv  our  ;it,  (l;iyli,ulii  tli«'  next  niorniim 

JUid  limited  :ill   (l;iy  witli  h'w  siurcss" 

i-  .lohiistoii  and  Billy  jmnix'da  hmicli  of 

iive  nudc-dccr,  a  hack,  two  does,  and 

two  fawns.      .lolmston    liicd  loartcen 

jr;  shots  at   tli(>ni  bd'oiv  tliry   •••(,t  out  of 

^   Mio   country,  ajid  killed  the   two  dors 

In  speakiiin-  of    it  afterward  Billy  said  ho  was  just 

takinn-  a  ^ood   aim  at    the   old  buck's    eye   when 

Johnston's  nun  cracked    iho    Jirst    time,*  and    of 

course  the  buck  i-an,  so  he  did  not  o-et  a  shot. 

''  But  wliy  didn't  yon  shoot  at  liini  runninu'^'  I 
inciuiied. 

"Because  I  can  t  liit  a  junipin'  deer."  he  replied, 
frr.idvly,  -and  I  liate  like  thnmh'r  to  nuss." 

I  spent  tlie  day  about  a  mile  from  camp  on  top  of 
Blue  (irouse  Mountain,  a  promim'nt  landmark  of 
the  country.  A  lieavy  fo^-  Innig  about  the  mount- 
ain and  over  tlie  surrounding  country  until  ab()ut 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  it  lifted  and 
disclosed  a  view  of  surpassino-  loveliness.  Away  to 
the  west  and  southwest  theie  was  a  level  tract  of 
swampy,  heavily  tind)eied  country  about  thirty 
miles  long  ami  ten  miles  wide.  1  looked  down  on 
the  tops  of  the  trees  composiiig  this  vast  forest,  and 
they  a])peared  at  this  distance  uot  unlike  a  vast  held 
of  half-grown  green  grain.    Beyond  this  tract  to  the 

(158) 


n 


]U 


•  i 


a.: 


am 


ONK  OF  JOIIXSTON-S  PHIZES. 


AM)   (nilKi:    II'  NIINti    .\l>\i;.N  I  rUKS. 


l.')."* 


west  n  cliiiiii  ol'  liills  uoiiiid  in  sciprntltu'  cin'ves 
t'l'oni  .'lortli  to  soiitli,  tlicir  piiiks  mikI  Mts  df  |)i;iiii«» 
^•h'iiminii- ill  tilt'  sun  like  w»'ll-iii;i(lc  niniis.  Totli*' 
iiortli  l:iy  liooii  l/iUc  iicsiliMu"  MMioiiii,'  lli<?  ]>iiic-cl:i(l 
hills,  its  pjiicid  hosoiii  s[»:irkliii,n-  in  the  scttin;;- sun 
lik«'  a  sheet  of  silver.  Farther  in  the  north  and 
northeast  were  two  other  lakes  of  e([iial  size  and 
bt'aiity.  while  I'ai'  distant  in  the  east  were  several 
hu'ge  bodies  of  prairie  separated  by  strips  ^A'  )»ine 
and  lir.  I  longed  loi-  my  canu'ra,  hut  on  account  of 
the  iinl'avorahle  outlook  of  the  inornini;'.  I  liad  not 
bi'oui^ht  the  instriinient. 

'I'he  i'ollowini;'  morning'  ])romised  no  better,  for  the 
fog  liiing  like  a  jiall  over  the  whole  country:  l)ut  I 
took  the  little  detective  with  me,  hoi)in,u"  the  mist 
would  lift  us  ))efore:  in  tliis,  however.  1  was  disa])- 
pointed.  I  staid  on  the  mountain  IVom  early  morn- 
ing till  hair-i)ast  three,  and  tlic  '  being  then  no  ])ros- 
pect  of  a  change  went  down.  .Inst  as  I  reached  the 
base  I  saw  a  I'ift  in  the  clouds,  and  siipi)osing  the 
long-wished  change  in  the  w«>atlier  was  about  to 
take  place,  I  turned  and  began  the  weaiy  climb,  but 
again  the  fog  settled  down,  and  I  was  at  last com- 
j)elle(l  to  return  to  <'amp  without  the  coveted  views. 
I  made  several  exiK)suresduring  the  day  on  ci'ooked, 
deformed,  wind-twisted  trees  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  which,  strange  to  say.  came  out  good. 
The  fog  was  so  dense  at  the  time  that  one  could  not 
see  lifty  yards.  I  used  a  small  stoj)  and  gave  each 
plate  from  five  to  twenty  seconds,  and  found,  when 
developed,  that  none  of  them  were  over  ex})osed, 
while  those  given  the  shorter  time  wei-e  niider 
exposed.     That  day's  hnnting  resnlted  in  thiee  more 


.1    ■  ifl 


i  i 


!      Si 


irj6 


ClU  ISI\(;s    1\    Tin;   CASCADES 


(Ifer,  and  as  we  then  Iiad  all  the  meat  onr  team  could 
take  out  up  the  steep  hills  neai"  csunp,  wedt^cidf^l  to 
start  I'oi-  home  the  next  morniiiii;.  While  seated 
aioundouihhizinglogtinMn  IIk^  old  cahin  that  night, 


ARE  Yor  I.OdKIN.l  KOU  US? 

Mr,  J{)hnst(>n  entertained  us  with  some  interesting 
reminiscences  of  his  ext'^nsive  exi»rnence  in  the  West, 
He  has  been  n  ''broncho  bu  '"r,"  u  stock  ranchman, 
and  a  co\v-l)oy  by  turns,  and  a  r^^cital  of  his  varied 
experi'^nces  in  these  several  lines  would  till  a  big- 
book.     Among  others,  he  told  us  that  he  once  lived 


AND   orilKR   HrXIINii    ADVKN'irKES, 


.u 


in  a  portion  of  California  wlieie  the  ranchmen  raised 
a  great  many  hogs,  but  allowed  them  to  range  at  will 
in  the  hills  [ind  mountains  I'roiu  the  time  they  were 
littered  until  old  enough  and  lai'ge  enough  for 
mi.i'ket;  that  in  this  time  thev  became  as  wild  as 
deer  and  as  savage  as  p^'ccarics,  so  that  the  only  way 
thev  could  ever  be  reclaimed  and  marketed  was  to 
catch  them  with  large,  powerful  dogs,  trained  to  the 
work,  Tiieii'  feet  wei-e  then  secui-ej  v  tied  with  strong 
thongs,  and  th<\v  weic  muzzled  and  packed  int(> 
mnrket  or  to  the  ranches,  as  their  owners  desired,  on 
hoi'SKs  or  mules. 

Johnston  had  a  pair  of  these  dogs,  and  used  to 
assist  his  neighbors  in  rounding  u[)  their  wild  hogs. 
In  one  case,  he  and  several  other  luen  went  with  an 
old  (xerman  I'ancliman  awiiy  up  into  the  mountains 
to  bring  out  a  drove  ol'  these  j)ine-skiuners,  numy  of 
whom  had  scaicplv  seen  a  human  being  since  thev 
were  pigs,  and  at  sight  of  the  i)arty  the  hogs  st:im- 
peded  of  course,  and  viwi  lil\e  so  nuiny  deer.  Tiiedogs 
were  turned  loose,  took  u[)  a  tiail,  and  soon  had  a 
vicious  critter  by  the  <c(rs,  when  the  packers  came  up, 
muzzled  and  ti<nl  it  secui'ely.  The  dogs  were  then 
turned  loose  agiiin.  and  tinother  hog  was  rounded  u[) 
in  the  snme  wny.  These  two  wei'e  hung  onto  a  pack- 
aniniiil  with  their  backs  dowi,  their  feet  lashed 
together  over  the  ])ack-s:iddle,  and  their  long,  sharp 
snouts  pointing  toward  the  horse's  head.  They  were 
duly  cinched,  and  the  hoise  tuj'ne(l  loose  to  join  the 
train.  This  operation :  \vas  repeated  until  the  whole 
herd  was  corralled  and  swunginto  place  on  the  horses, 
and  the  s({uealing,  groaning,  and  snorting  of  the  ter- 
rified brutes  was  almost  denfening.     One  pair  of  hogs 


;f!  ' 


(158) 


AND   OTIIKIt    III'NriN<;    A  i)V  KN  I'l' UKS. 


l.")0 


were  loaded  on  a  little  mule  wliicli  liad  never  been 
aecustonied  to  this  woi'k,  mid,  as  the  men  were  all 
engaged  in  handling  the  other  animals,  the  old  ranch- 
man said  he  would  lead  this  muh' down  the  mountain 
himself.  .lohnston  and  hispai'tnei'  cinched  the  hogs 
on  in  good  shape,  while  the  Dutchman  hiiug  to 
the  mule. 

As  they  were  giving  the  ropes  the  final  imll,  Johns- 
ton gave  liis  chum  a  wink,  and  tiiey  both  slipped 
out  their  knives,  cut  the  muzzles  off  the  porkers  when 
the  old  man  was  looking  the  other  way,  and  told 
him  to  go  ahead.  lie  started  down  the  trail  t(.\ving 
the  little  mule,  which  did  not  relish  its  load  in  the 
least,  by  the  halter.  The  hogs  were  struggling  to 
free  themselves,  and,  as  the  thongs  began  to  cut  into 
their  legs,  they  got  mad  and  began  to  bite  the  mide. 

Then  there  was  trouble:  still'degged  bucking  set 
in.  and  nude  and  hogs  were  churned  u[)  aud  down, 
and  changed  ends  so  rapidl)^  that  for  a  few  minutes 
it  was  hard  to  tell  which  of  the  tlnv  ■  animals  was  on 
the  outside,  the  inside,  the  topside,  or  the  bottom- 
side.  The  poor  little  mule  was  frantic  with  rage  and 
fright,  and  what  a  mule  c;-n  not  and  will  not  do 
under  such  circumstances,  to  get  I'id  of  a  load  can  not 
be  (hme  by  any  four-foot (^d  brast.  lie  i)awed  the 
air,  kicked,  and  brayed,  jum[)ed backward,  forward, 
and  sidewise,  and  twiste(l  himself  into  every  imag- 
inable shape.  The  (dd  Dutchman  was  as  badly  stam- 
peded as  the  mide;  he  shouted,  yanked,  aud  swore 
in  Dutch,  English,  and  Spanish;  he  yelled  to  the 
men  al)ove  to  come  and  hel[)  hiiu,  but  they  w.-.v  so 
convulsed  and  doubled  up  with  laughtei'  ihat  they 
couhl  not  have  helped  him  if  they  would. 


J  GO 


ci;ri.si\(;s  ix  tiik  cascades 


Finally,  the  nmlegot  awiiy  IVoiu  the  old  man  and 
went  tearing-  down  into  the  canon  ;  he  overtook  and 
})assedthe  balanctM)!'  the  pack-train,  8tanii)eded  them 
almost  beyond  control  of  the  packers,  and  knocked 
the  i)()or  ho,<>s  auainst  trees  and  bi'nsliuntilthey  were 
almost  dead.  lie  ran  ne^arly  six  miles,  and  being- 
unable  to  get  rid  of  his  pack,  I'ell  exhausted  andhiy 
there  until  the  men  came  n\)  and  took  charge  of  liim. 
The  old  nan  accused  Johnston  of  cutting  the  muzzles 


I 


^^  ^y^.:^M^=:^=:=^^. 


TIM-:  lU'CKKl!  AM)  TIIK  IM'STKI! 

off  the  hogs,  but  he  and  his  [)artner  both  denied  it, 
said  they  certainly  nnist  have  slix)ped  olf,  and  they 
Jinallv  convinced  him  that  that  was  the  wav  the 
trouble  came  about. 

I'his,  with  siunU'y  other  recitals  of  an  ecpially 
interesting  ntiture,  caused  the  evening  to  pass  pleas- 
antly, and  at  a  late  hour  we  turned  into  our  l)unks. 
AVe  were  up  and  moving  long  befoi'e  daylight  the 
next  morning,  and  as  soon  as  we  could  see  the  trail 


'"«■<■>•  .-nid  b..o,,„  t„  ,,,„^  ;'"*■''    "  ^<"".l   it  a„y 
the  tongue,  l„„.|v  in  tliH     „         '"  """"'  '■i.n.eIC  „„ 

■r.  'XU  the  brute  u-„ul  1"';"'""'lf""ltoJ«ul 

"■'""''  '-  "'■"■.•..,  -.      o        ':  "'  "">•  '""'■«  fl"m  it 

*«-^  long,  ,,„,,  j.,„„^,,  tl  e  V  i,  '..""'"  "■"'  'I'l-e 
""■^'y.  r  took  u  han.i  n  ,!"'■'■  '''^''^  ''>'"■- 
;'«l»e.st,  ,,„,,  „,,,„,^,,,  ,,e   ,':,?","'■•  '"  -'"hn^ton-^ 

'ri'-  '".vuiniity^wt :.:':; t'^^^^ 


^""    '^"•ke'l,  n»til  it  J,    ,    '    ;   '-'^"""l.    '••»„,,„ 

'";;""■■'«■  .'ohnston  and       ';■""«  ^'-''  ""I'  iu.u, 

'I»<1  lie  Huallv  got  imvn'r,''™!'''''"''''' "'"'-r  lusl.i.le 
'"«  l^ill  and  h.^ue  to  ^    ':,  :r'"^'/'''''^  '"«  l'«       p 

;'"^"';'i-M-nHin,.tioto':;""t''' ■''"""■- 

t'.-,  I  ..aug„t  the  tn  •.;;;;;;;,'-''-  -i-^,  m  cu-: 

'"^pokaiie  Fulls  ]\  ..  ' 

u  '""  '""*■'  heautUul  an<l 


t ,}  -J ! 


(162) 


A.M>    ollIKi;    IIIXIIXi;    .\1>\  I.NII   UKS. 


i(;:5 


•J 

.1; 

> 

p 
a 

H 

^; 
»-* 

If 
w 


iiiterestiiii;' sights  on  llic  line  oi' the  Norlhciii  Piicitic 
rond.  Tlit'i'c  tii-c  ovci'  ;i  do/cii  disliiict  I'lills  \viiliiii  :i 
hiiir  M  mile,  one  of  which  is  oxer  sixty  h'ci  in  pfi- 
ppiuliculni' lit'i.uhl.  Scvcinl  of  these  hills  ;ire  sjdit 
into  vnrioiis  channels  by  small  islands  of  ])illais  of 
))asaltic  rock.  \\  one  ])la<'e,  wliei'e  two  of  these 
channels  unit<^  in  a  coninion  jtlnnii-e  into  a  small 
])ool,  the  water  is  liii'own  up  in  a  heantifnl.  shell- 
like  cone  of  Avliit*^  loam,  to  a  lieiuht  of  nearly  six 
feet.  It  is  estimated  by  comjjeteiit  en,iiineeis  that 
the  river  at  this  point  fui'nishes  a  watei"-p()were(]nal 
in  the  njn',i;'i'e,ua1e  to  that  of  the  Mississij)]>i  at  St. 
Antlnrnv's  Falls.     Kveiv  ijassenuer  over  this  loute 

«  ill 

should  certainly  sto[>  oft  and  spend  a  lew  hours 
viewing-  tlie  i'lills  of  the  Spoktine  river. 


**- 

■  * 

S 

^^flf^ 

M 

m 

i 

M^^Li- 

MT;^ 

:,f^' 

-.^ 

-^ 

i 

*  V^ff- 

■'*;        V  ■'■^, 

m^^-  •^ 

'  s  1 '      ■■ 

r'  -t 

'U     ,  ' 

"■^ 


■■■■ 


ill 

i] 

i 

■  II 


I    !!l 


li  'j\ 


:  I  1 


t  • 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

IIUXTIN(;   THE  (HIIZZLY    HEAR. 

'^IIE  beiU',  like  mail,  iiiliahits  almost  every 
ititude  and  every  land,  and  has 
even  bec^n  tninslated  to  the 
stai'i-y  lieavens,  where  tlie 
constelhitions  of  the  Great 
Dii)per  antl  the  Little  Dipper  are 
known  to  us  as  well  as  to  the  ancients  as 
Ursi  Major  and  Minor.  But  North  Amevica 
furnishes  the  largest  and  most  aggressive  species 
in  the  grizzly  (0'.s»«  horribilis),  the  black  ( n-.s'«.s- 
anwricariHs),  and  the  polar  {Wrsus  maritimus) 
bears,  and  here  tlie  hunter  linds  his  most  daring- 
sport.  Of  all  the  known  plantigrades  itiat-footed 
beasts)  the  grizzly  is  the  most  savage  and  the  most 
dreaded,  and  lie  is  the  largest  of  all,  saving  the 
presence  of  his  cousin  the  pola?'  bear,  for  which, 
nevertheless,  he  is  moie  than  a  mfitcli  in  strength 
and  courage.  Some  specimens  measure  seven  feet 
from  tip  of  nose  to  root  of  tail.  The  distinctive 
marks  of  the  species  ;ve  its  great  size;  the  shortness 
of  the  tail  as  compared  with  the  ears;  the  huge  Hat 
paws,  the  sole  of  the  hind  foot  sometimes  measur- 
ing seven  and  a  half  l)y  five  inches  in  Ji  large  male; 
the  length  of  the  hind  legs  as  compared  with  the 
forelegs,  which  gives  the  beast  his  awkward,  sham- 
bling gait;  the  long  claws  of  the  fore  foot,  sometimes 
seven  imdies  in  length,  while  those  of  the  hind  foot 

(Hi4) 


AM)    oTIIKIi    Ml  N'lINc;    A  I»V  KNTT  KKS. 


If').") 


measiuvoiily  tluve  or  I'oui-;  the  erect,  bristling )n;iiie 
of  stilT  luiii',  often  six  inches  long';  tlie  coai'se  luiil' 
of  the  body,  sometimes  tiiiee  inches  lonu",  (hirk  at 
the  l)ase,  but  with  liuht  tii)s.  He  lias  a  dark  stripe 
along  the  back,  and  oiu'  ah)ng  each  side,  tlie  hair  on 
his  ])()(ly  being,  as  a  rule,  a  bi()\vnisli-yclh)\v,  tiie 
region  around  tlie  ears  dusk}',  the  legs  nearly  black, 
and  tin*  muzzle  pale.  Color,  however,  is  not  a  dis- 
tinctive maik,  for  female  grizzlies  have  been  killed 
in  C(mipany  with  two  cubs,  one  of  which  was  blown, 
the  othei'gray,  or  one  dark,  the  othei'  light;  and  the 
.sui)posed  species  of  "cinnamon'"  and  "brown'' 
bears  are  merely  color  variations  of  Ur^ns  horrihiUs 
himself. 

This  ubiquitous  gentleman  lias  a  wide  range  for  his 
habitat.  He  has  been  found  on  the  ^lissouri  river 
from  Fort  Pierre  northwai'd,  and  thence  west  to  his 
favorite  haunts  in  the  Rockies:  (m  the  Pacilic  slope 
( lear  down  to  the  coast;  as  far  south  as  Mexico,  and  as 
far  noitli  as  the  Great  Slave  Lake  in  British  Anieiica. 
lie  not  ()\\\\  ranges  evervwhe)'e,  but  eats  evei'vthinu'. 
His  majesty  is  a  good  liver.  He  is  not  proi)erly  a 
beast  of  prey,  for  he  has  neither  the  cat-like  instincts, 
nor  the  noiseless  tread  of  the /e//c?«',  nor  is  he  Heet 
and  long-winded  like  the  wolf,  altliough  good  at  a 
short  run,  as  an  unluckv  hunter  ma  V  find.  But  he 
hangs  about  the  hanks  of  a  herd  of  bulfalo,  with 
probably  an  eye  to  a  wounded  or  disabled  animal, 
and  he  frequently  raids  a  ranch  and  carries  olf  a 
slieej),  hog,  or  calf  that  is  penned  beyond  the  possi- 
bility of  escape. 

Elk  is  his  favorite  meat,  and  the  knowing  hunter 
who  has  the  good  luck  to  kill  an  elk  makes  sure 


^ 


;t 


i  •■ 


l\ 


ri 


11:! 


i 


iOC) 


c'inisiNos  IN  Tin:  (  A>«'AIU:s 


tliiit  its  ciircnss  will  (lr;iu  Mi.  (iiizzly  if  lie  is  within 
!i  riin.uv  of  live  iiiilt's.  llf  will  vat  not  only  llrsli. 
lisli,  iind  fowl,  hut  roots,  liri'hs.  fruit.  v«\u('t:il)l»'s, 
honcv.  and  insects  us  weU.     Plums,  hiillalo-hcrrit's. 


yr.ATH  AM)  TIIK  CATSt-;  OF  IT. 

und  choke-cherries  make  u  iariiv  ]»art  of  his  <liet  in 
their  seasons. 

The  u'riz/Jv  hear  possesses  li'reater  vitality  and 
teiuu'it}'  of  life  than  any  other  animal  on  the  conti- 
nent, and  the  liunter  who  would  liunt  him  must  he 
Avell  armed  and  kee]>  a  steady  iu-rve.  Eacli  shot  must 
he  coolv  i)Ut  where  it  will  do  the  mostii'ood.   Several 


A.\i>  oiiiKij  iMNTiN*.  Ait\i:Ni  I  i;i:s. 


1(1 


u 


5n'«'  l'i'<'(|n«'ntly  ii«>('»'ss;n'y  to  stoj)  (»n»'  ol'  tlicsr  sjivaut' 
Ixnists.  A  siiiulf  liiillt'f  lodii't'd  ill  the  bi-jiiii  is  I'jitiil. 
If  shot  throiiuli  tln'  lit'iiit  lie  iMiiy  niii  ;i  (iiinitcr  of 
:i  niiU' oi- Uill  :i  iii.iii  lid'oiv  lie  siicciinibs.  In  tiic 
(l:i\s  ol"  llic  old  imi/./lf  loiidiiiu'  fill*'  it  v\;is  li;i/:ird- 
oiis  indeed  to  limit  l!ie  uri/./ly,  mid  iiiaii\'  a  man  lias 
j)aid  llie  penalty  of  his  folly  wiih  his  life.  With 
onr  ini|)roved  hreecli  loadin.u'  and  lepeatin.u  lilies 
tJieiv  is  less  rislc. 

Tlie  uTizzly  is  said  to  hiiry  carcasses  of  lai'Lie  ani- 
jiials  for  future  use  as  I'ood,  but  this  i  doul>t.  I 
liave  frequently  retui'ued  fo  carcasses  of  elk  or  (h'er 
that  1  had  killed  and  found  that  durinii'  niv  absence 
l)ears  had  i)arlially  (h'stroyed  them,  and  in  their 
excitement,  occasioned  bv  the  smell  or  taste  of  fresli 
meat,  had  pawed  up  tlu'  earth  a  uood  deal  there- 
about, throwiiiii'  dirt  and  h'aves  in  various  directions, 
and  some  of  this  del)ris  may  have  fallen  on  the 
bodies  of  the  (U-ad  game;  1)UI  I  have  iieverseeii  where 
any  systematic  attemj»t  liad  been  made  at  burying  a 
carcass.  Still.  Hruin  may  have  playad  the  sexton  in 
some  cases,  lie  hibernates  during  winter,  but  does 
not  take  to  his  long  sleej)  until  the  winter  lias 
tlioroughly  set  in  and  the  snow  is  (piite  deep.  He 
may  frequently  be  ti'acked  and  I'ound  in  snow  Ji  foot 
dee]>,  wheie  he  is  loaniing  in  search  of  food.  He 
becomes  very  fat  befoiv  going  into  wintei' quarters, 
and  this  vast  accumulation  of  oil  furnishes  niitiiment 
and  heat  sufficient  to  sustain  life  during  his  long 
coniinement. 

The  newspapers  often  kill  gi'izzlies  weighing  1,5()0, 
1,800,  or  even  2.ooo  [loiinds.  and  in  any  party  of 
frontiersmen  "talking  grizzly "'  you  will  tind  plenty 


^ 


lOS 


<'i;risiN(;s  i\   iiik  cascauks 


'■       ^i 


l^ 


i 


if  i 


\    : 


J: 


>  i 


■,     ! 


1     i 


:ii 


el'  lut'M  wlio  ciin  i-ivt'  diitc  iiml  [iljicr  wIhto  tlu'V 
killed  or  helped  tu  kill  ut  least  l,t>UU  poiiuds  of 
Bniin, 

"  Did  you  weiiiii  iff" 

"No,  we  (lidu't  \vei<'h  'iiu;  hut  overy  nuiu  as  seed 
'irnsaid  lie  woidd  \veii«li  that,  and  they  was  all  good 
jedges,  too." 

And  this  is  tlie  wny  most  of  the  stories  of  hii>)>ea!-, 
big  elk,  big  (Uh'W  etc..  begin  and  end.  Hears  are 
usually,  though  not  always,  killed  at  <'onsid«'iable 
distances  I'loin  towns,  oi'  even  ranches,  Avhere  it  is 
not  easy  to  lind  a  scales  large  enough  to  weigh  so 
inucli  meat. 

Tile  hirgvi^t  giizzly  I  have  ever  killed  would  not 
weigh  more  than  7(M)  or  SOO  pounds,  and  I  do  not 
believe  one  has  ever  lived  that  would  weigh  1,000 
pounds.  The  tlesh  ol"  the  adult  griz/ly  is  lough, 
.stiiugy,  and  decidedly  unpalatable,  but  that  of  a 
young  iat  on«Ms  tender  and  juicv.  and  is  always  a 
welcome  dish  on  the  hunter's  table. 

The  female  usually  gives  birth  to  two  cubs,  and 
sometimes  three,  at  a  time.  At  birth  they  weigh 
only  about  l^to  1^  poundseach.  The gi'izzly  breeds 
readily  in  continement,  and  several  litters  have  been 
l^roduced  in  the  Zoological  (lardens  at  Cincinnati. 
The  female  is  unusually  vicious  while  rearing  her 
young,  and  the  hunter  must  be  doubly  cauli(Mis 
about  attacking  at  that  time.  An  Indian  rarely 
attacks  a  grizzly  single-handed  at  any  time,  and  it  is 
only  when  sevei'al  of  these  native  hunters  are  together 
that  they  will  attempt  to  kill  one.  They  value  the 
claws  yery  highly,  however,  and  take  gi'eat  pride  in 
wearing  strings  of  them  around  their  necks. 


I 


AND   O'llIKIt    Iir.\TIN(i    ADVKNTnnOS. 


lOi) 


Tlio  <4ii/zly  usiiiilly  riv(|ii«'nts  tlie  tiniln'icd  or 
briisli-('()v«  r«'(l  jxn'tioiis  of  inoiintaiiioiis  regions,  or 
tli«*  liiiil)('i'»'<l  viilh'vs  of  strt'jiins  tluU  licad  in  the 
inoiinlains.  IIh  occa  ionallv  Tollowsdowii  tlwcoiirse 
of  tlh's«'  sli'canis  and  even  travels  many  niiles  from 
one  stream  to  aiiollu'i-,  or  from  one  ian,i;'e  of  mount- 
ains to  anothei,  across  open  [trairie.  I  once  found 
on«'  on  a  br(>ad  ojmmi  plateau  in  tiie  J^iu'  Horn 
Monntains,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  neai'cst 
cover  of  any  kind.  II'  was  tuiiiin^'  over  rocivs  in 
.search  of  worms.  At  tiie  report  of  my  rifle  he  started 
for  tile  neaiest  carum,  but  never  readied  it.  An 
exi)losive  bullet  throuu'li  liis  ]un,u>  rendei-ed  him 
unequal  to  tlie  jouiney. 

Few  p<'i'sons  l)elieve  tliat  a  <;i'izzly  will  attack  a 
man  before  he  is  himself  attacked.  I  was  one  of 
these  doubting  Thomases  until  a  few  years  ago, 
when  I  was  thorough!  v  convinced  bv  ocular  (h'lnon- 
stration  that  some  gi'izzlies,  at  least,  will  attem[)t  to 
make  a  meal  olf  a  man  even  though  he  may  n(»t  have 
harmed  them  previously.  We  were  hunting  in  the 
Shoshone  Mountains  in  Northern  Wyoming.  I  had 
killed  a  large  elk  in  the  moi'ning,  and  on  going  back 
to  the  carcass  in  the  afternoon  to  skin  it  we  saw  that 
Bi'uin  had  been  there  ahead  us,  but  had  lied  on  our 
approach.  Withont  the  least  ai)prehension  of  his 
return,  we  leaned  oui'  ritles  against  a  ti'ee  about  iil'ty 
feet  away,  and  commenced  woik.  There  wtMe  three 
of  us,  but  only  two  lilles.  Mi',  llulfmaii,  the  photog- 
I'apher,  having  left  his  in  camp  He  had  linished 
taking  views  of  the  (carcass,  and  w«3  were  all  busily 
engaged  skinning,  when,  hearing  a  crashing  in  the 
brush  and  a  series  of  savage  roars  and  growls,  we 


I       111 


I   I 


'I 


170 


(■PvI'ISI.\(rS    T\    Till-;   (•AS("A1)KS 


1  H 


1. 


i 


Jookt'd  iij)  ilic  hill,  iiiul  wpiv  lionilird  t(;  see  three 
<iii//!y  l)ejn's,  ;\n  old  I'emtile  niid  two  cubs  about  two- 
tliii'<ls  <4i'o\vn,  <'liai',uiii<j,'  upon  us  uitli  nil  the  sava<2;e 
I'ui'V  ol'  a  jiack  of  slaivini;'  wolves  upon  a  sheepfold. 

To  inak«'  a.  lonu-  stoiy  slioit,  wo  killt-d  the  old 
ieniale  and  out'  <'ul):  tin-  othfr  escajx-d  into  the  jiiu- 
gl<^  Ijefoi'e  w(>  coidd  ,uet  a  shot  at  him.  The  I'esolute 
front  WH  ])ul  oil  alone  saved  our  lives. 

Ill  another  instaiu'e,  v.hen  huntiun'  deer  in  Idaho, 
I  caaie  sud(h'nly  u[)on  ad'eiualeiirizzly  and  two  cubs, 
when  the  mother  beai'  charu'ed  iiie  savau'ely  and 
would  have  killed  me  had  1  not  i'ortunatelv  <'on- 
tr(/lled  my  nerves  hm^'  enou.uli  to  j)Ut  a  couple  (d' 
bullets  tlirough  her  and  stop  her  bei'ore  she  got 
to  me. 

I  li;!\('ht'ai'd  of  sevi'i'al  other  instances  of  o-j'i/zlipsj 
makiuii"  unpi'ovoked  attacks  oil  men.  which  were  so 
Avcll  s!d>stantiated  that  1  (-ould  not  ijuestion  the 
truth  of  the  rej)orts. 

The  gri/./ly  is  partially  noctni-nal  in  his  habits, 
and  apjiarently  divides  his  lal.oi'  of  obtaining  I'ood 
and  his  traveling  about  ecpndly  between  day  and 
night.  It  is  not  (hdinitely  known  to  what  age  lie 
liv'^s  in  his  wild  state,  but  he  is  snpi>osed  to  attain 
to  twentv-iive  or  tldrtv  A'ears.  tSeveral  liave  lived  in 
(h)!nestication  to  neiirly  that  age,  and  ore  died  in 
T'nion  Park.  Chicauo.  a  few  veai's  ayo.  that  was 
known  to  l)e  eighteen  years  old. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  coui'age  and  ferocity  of 
this  i'ormidable  beast,  he  will  utter  the  most  i)itiable 
groans  and  howls  when  sciionslv  or  inortallv 
wounded. 

Two  brothers  were  pi'ospecting  in  a  range  of  Uiount- 


i 


A.vi)  oriiKK  ncN'riNii  advkx  rii:i;s. 


171 


ains  mwv  the  licadwatcrs  of  tlin  Stiiikino'  Water 
river.  Tlic  yomiuer  ol'  llic  iwo,  tlioii.uli  an  able- 
bodied  luaii,  and  ('a])al)I('  ol"  doiiii''  a  uood  dav's  work 
with  a  pick  or  .sliovi^l,  was  weak-minded,  and  the 
fclih'r  V)i()tiier  never  allowed  liini  to  uo  anv  distance 
away  rioin  canio  or  tlieir  work  alone.  He,  liowevei*, 
sent  Irini  one  eveninu"  to  the  spring,  a  few  rods  oil', 
to  brin.u' a  kettlefnl  of  wat»>r.  The  spi-ino-  wns  in  a 
deep  o'org'e,  and  tln'  trail  to  it  wound  tlii-ou.^h  some 
fissures  in  th-,  I'ock.  As  the  younu'  man  passed 
niuh'r  a  shelving  lock,  aninnnenseold  female  grizzly, 
that  had  taken  up  tempoiary  (piarteis  tliere,  ivaclied 
out  and  stiiick  a  powei'ful  Mow  at  ids  licad.  luit  for- 
tunately could  not  leach  far  enougli  to  do  him  any 
serious  hai'm.  The  blow  knocked  ins  hat  off,  and 
lier  claws  caught  his  scali),  imd  hrid  it  open  cleai- 
across  the  toi)  of  his  head  in  several  uulv  uashes. 
Tlie  I'orci'of  the  blow  sent  Kim  s[)inning  around,  and 
not  knowing  enough  to  be  fiightened,  he  attacked 
lier  savagely  with  the  only  weai)on  he  had  at  hand — 
tliecamp  Ivettle. 

The  elder  brother  lieai'd  the  racket,  and  hastily 
catchng  up  liis  rifle  and  hurrying  to  the  scene  of  the 
disturbance,  found  his  ))i()ther  vioo-onsly  beialioi- 
ing  the  beai-  over  the  head  with  the  camp  kettle, 
and  the  lieai-  striking  savage  blows  at  him  any 
one  of  which,  if  she  could  have  reached  him, 
would  have  torn  his  head  from  his  shoulders. 
Tliree  bnllets  fi-om  the  rilie,  lired  in  rapi<l  succrssion, 
kx)sened  iiei-  hold  upon  the  rocks,  and  she  tunil)led 
lifelessly  into  the  trail.  The  poor  idiotic  boy  could 
not  even  then  realize  the  danger  through  which  he 
had  passed,   and  could  only  appe.-ise  his  aiigei-  by 


I 

If , 

if. 


>n 


1 


72 


Cll\l>\S('>    IN    TilK    ('AiSC'AnKS 


%i 


i  ';■ 


f(mtini;in<^  to  maul  tlie  bt^ar  over  tlw  liead  with  the 
cnini)  kettle  for  several  minutes  after  she  was  dead. 

Some  yeai's  a<2,<)  I  wfiit  into  tiie  mountains  Avith  a 
)»ai'ty  of  friends  to  hunt  elk.  Our  guide  told  us  Ave 
should  iind  plenty  of  lii'ous*'  along  the  trail,  from 
the  (hi V  \y*'  left  the  st'ttl«-ments:  that  on  the  third 
dav  out  Ave  should  lin<l  elk.  and  ihat  it  would  there- 
fore  be  useless  to  bunh^n  oif  packdiorses  with  meat. 
We  aceordinu'ly  took  none  save  a  small  piece  of 
baron. 

Ccmtraiy  to  his  predictions,  howcA^er,  aa^c  found  no 
grouse  or  other  small  gamee/i  route,  and  soon  ate  up 
our  bacon.  Furthei'mor(\  Ave  Avere  live  davs  in 
reaching  the  elk  country,  instead  of  three  as  he  said. 
All  this  time  Av<' wei'e  climbing  mountains  and  had 
appetites  that  are  knoAvn  only  to  mountain  climbers. 
^X^'  had  plenty  of  bread  and  ])otatoes,  but  these 
Avere  not  sufficient.  We  haidveivd  for  Hesli,  and 
though  Ave  iilled  ourselves  with  vegetable  food,  yet 
were  w<'  huiigi'y. 

Finally  Ave  reached  oui-  destination  at  midday. 
While  we  Avere  unloading  the  horses,  a  "  fool  hen" 
came  and  lit  in  a  treenear  ns,  A  ritie  ball  beheaded 
her,  and  almost  before  she  was  doiu^  kicking  she 
Avas  in  the  frying  i)au. 

A  m^gro  once  had  a,  bottle  of  whisky,  and  was 
making  vigoious  efforts  to  get  outside  of  it,  a\  hen  a 
chum  came  u[)  and  asked  for  a  pull  at  it.  "O,  g'long, 
nigger."  said  the  hapi)y  owner  <«f  the  corn  Juice. 
'■  What's  one  bottle  of  whisky  'mong  one  man;'" 
And  Avhat  Avas  one  little  gi'ouse  among  live  half- 
starved  men;  The  smell  and  taste  oidy  made  us 
lonu'  for  more. 


AM)    OTIIKIJ    IIF'.\TI\«;    A  I)  V  KXTl"  IIKS. 


I?;} 


Altei'  (liiiiuT  we  all  went  our  and  liiinted  nntil 
(lark.  Soonal'ter  leuving  rnmi)  some  of  us  heard 
]iv.'Iy  Hrino.  ,ip  t|ie  canon,  where  our  uuide  had 
gone,  and  felt  ceitain  that  he  had  s.'cured  meat,  for 
WiOiad  heard  olouin-  accounts,  i'roni  hhii  and  his 
iriends,  of  Jii.s  i)rowess  as  a  hunter.  Tlie  ]-est  of  us 
wei-e  not  so  despondent,  thei-el'ore,  when  weivturned 
at  dusk  empty  handed,  as  we  should  othei-wise  have 
been,  until  Ave  reached  camp  and  found  the  i-uide 
there  wearing-  n  long  face  and  bloodh^ss  hands.'" 

He  told  a  (h)leful  story  of  havin-  had  five  fair 
shots  atalargel)ull  dk.  whostood  hioadsidcon  only 
seventy-iive  yards  away,  but  who  liuallv  became 
alarmed  at  the  fusilach"  ami  tied,  leavinn'iio  blood 
on  his  trail.  The  guide  of  course  anathematized 
his  gun  m  the  choicest  terms  known  to  frontiej-smen 
and  oui'  mouths  watered  as  we  thought  of  what 
might  have  been. 

Our  potatoes,  liaving  been  compelled  to  stand  for 
meat  also,  Imd  vanished  j-apidly.  and  we  ate  the  last 
of  them  foi-  supp.M-  that  night.      h\^\v  words  were 
spoken  and  no  jokes  cracked  over  that  meal       We 
ate   bread  straight  foi-  bivakfast.  and   ttnTiiii-  out 
early  hunted  diligently  all  day.      Wc  were  nearly 
hunished  when  we  leturiied  at  inght  and  luxuic  had 
seen  any  livin.o-  thing  largei-  than  a  pine  scpiiriel 
It  IS  written  that   ■•nmn   shall  not   liv   bv   breml 
ahme,"  and  we  found  that  wc  could  not  much  Icmiier 
And  soon  we  should  not   have  even   that,    for   oui' 
flour  was  getting  low.      i3ut  we  l)roke  the  steaming 
tiat-eake  again  at  supper,  and  turned  in  to  dream  o7 
juicy    steaks,    succuhTit    joints,    and    de!ici(,us   rib 
roasts. 


:l 


|,., 


'I 


I 


I   ; 


ij 


h 


ni 


\w 


174 


(  i:riSl.N(.>    IN    'IIIK    (■AMA1)1> 


We  wci'c  lip  hcfort'  (lii3'li,u'l)l  lo  liiid  ihat  six  oi' 
eiglit  inclu's  ol'  liulit  snow  liad  rallcii  silent  ly  diii'ing 
the  iiiglil,  wliicli  lay  jiilcd  iij)  on  the  bi'anclics  of 
the  trees,  diaitiliu'  the  dense  i'oivsts  in  nhostlv  white. 
Our  (li'oo}tin,u'  sjtiiits  revived,  for  we  liojH'd  that  the 
tell-tale  mantle  would  enable  us  to  liiid  1  hi'  uaiiie  we 
so  uiucli  needed  in  our  business.  \V<'  broke  our 
bread  more  cheei-fully  that  morniiiu-  than  for  two 
days  [d'eviously,  but  at  the  <'ouiu'il  of  war  held  over 
the  fi'Uiial  meal,  decich'd  that  unless  we  scoi-ed  that 
dav  we  must  make  tracks  for  the  nearest  ranch  the 
next  iiioruiuii'.  and  tiy  to  nudve  our  scanty  icm- 
n:int  of  Jloiii'  keep  us  alive  until  we  could  get  there. 

l^reakfast  over  we  scattered  ourselves  1)V  the  four 
])oints  of  the  c(uii[>ass  and  set  out.  Tt  fell  to  my  lot 
to  go  lip  the  cai""u)n.  Sih'utly  1  stro(h'  through  the 
I'orest,  scanning  the  snow  in  search  of  foot-prints, 
but  for  an  hoiii'  1  could  see  none.  TIkmi,  as  I  cautiously 
iiscendefl  a  ridge,  I  heard  a  crash  in  the  biiisli 
bev<md  and  reached  the  summit  just  in  time  to  see 
the  lattei'  end  of  a  lar^e  bull  elk  disappear  in  the 
thicket. 

lie  had  not  heard  orseen  me,  but  had  winded  me, 
and  tarried  not  for  better  acquaintance.  ]  followed  ids 
li'ail  some  three  iinles  up  the  canon,  cu'efully 
[)euetrating  the  thickets  and  p(-i-i'ing  among  the 
larger  trees,  but  ne\ei'  a  glimpse  could  1  get  and 
nev«'r  a  sound  could  I  hear  of  him.  He  siHMued 
uuusiially  wild.  I  could  see  bv  his  trail  that  he  had 
not  stoi)ped,  but  had  kej)t  straight  away  on  that 
long,,  swinging  liot  that  is  siu'h  a  telling  gait  of  the 
species,  and  which  tlie\'  will  sometimes  keeji  u;>  for 
hours  together.      I^'inally    1   <'ame  to  wln^re  he  lia<l 


A\i)  (.TiiKu  nr\Ti\(;   Ai)Vi;\Tri;i>. 


i.) 


left  the  cauoii  nnd  nscpiKl.^l  ili.>  iiiomitain.  1  lol- 
loped up  this  loi-i,  linu'.  l.ul  sw'inii-  ihal  lie  li:i<i  ik.i 
yet  pausf^d,  and  tindiiio'  that  my  raiiiislird  condition 
rendered  nie  nneiinal  to  tlie  cliinb,  was  romiH-lled  to 
al)an(h)ii  Mie  i)ni'suit  and  witli  a  lieaw  heart  ivtiirn 
a.uain  to  tlie  canon.  J  kej)t  on  up  it.  )„it  could  tind 
no  otlier  oame  oi-  sjoti  of  ;,„y.  Like  the  red  liunter, 
in  the  time  ot  faniin<'.  who 

"  ViiiDly  walked  tliinuoh  1]^.  forc.,i, 
Sought  for  l)inl,  or  l)c>ast.  and  found  none; 
Saw  no  I  rack  of  door  or  rabbit, 
In  (ho  snow  bohold  no  foot -prints, 
In  th(;  ghostly  rioaming  furost 
Foil  !  nd  ooidd  not  rise  from  Avoaknoss," 

so  T  trndg-ed  on  until,  wearied  and  woin  out,  I  lay 
down  beside  a  giant  tir  tree,  whose  si)ieadiiiu 
brandies  Jiad  kept  tiie  snow  from  the  .uTound.  niid 
fell  asleep.  When  I  awoke  my  joints  weiv  stilf  and 
sore,  and  1  was  chilled  to  tlie'boii(>.  It  was  late  in 
the  afternoon,  and  ti  quiet,  drizzling  rain  liad  s.-t  in. 
I  found  the  trail  tliijt  led  through  tli(^  ctihon.  aii<l 
started  l)ack  to  cjimp.  trudging  along  ;is  ra])idly  as 
possible,  fof  hungvf  u-as  gnawing  at  mv  vitals  and 
my  strength  was  fast  hiiling. 

"  Over  snow-tiold.s  waste  and  ixtthloss. 
Under  snow-oucuniiicrod  brancbos. 
Empty  handed,  lioavyhoarlod," 

I  toiled  wearily  (mi.  The  snow  had  l^econie  satu- 
rated with  the  rah),  and  gtval  <'hunks  of  ii  wei-e 
falling  from  the  trees  Avith  dull,  monotonous  -oiind.s. 
"tSlush,  slush,"  ''  Splash.  s])l:ish,'"  came  the  gh.omy 
sounds  from  till  ])arts  of  th,.  woods.  I  was  I'lejiiing 
cam]),  and  had  tibandon.d  all  hope  of  seeing  game' 


!     5, 


4 


IV J 


CKUl.SI.NCiS    l.\    TIIK   CASCADES 


0 


V     7 


My  (:»iily  ()l)je(  t  was  to  I'cjicli  shelter,  to  i-cst,  and 
feast  on  the  misatisrviiii'-  bread.  I  heard  Ji  succes- 
sioii  oL'  the  sphisliinii's  ♦  hat  caiiie  from  mv  h4't  with 
such  re^i!,'idar  cack'iice  as  to  cause  nu^  to  look  uj), 
wlieii,  n'l'eat  St.  Hubert  I  theiv  cauie  a  liu.ue  uiizzly 
bear  shambling-  and  splashing  along  tlirougii  the 
wet  snow.  It  was  his  footstei)S  that  I  iiad  becu 
heai'ing  for  a.  nunute  or  two  past,  and  which  1  had. 
at  lirst,  thought  to  be  the  falling  snow. 

He  had  not  yet  seen  me,  and  what  a  marvelous 
change  came  over  uie  I  I  forgot  that  f  was  tired; 
tliat  I  was  weak;  that  1  was  hungry.  The  instincts 
of  the  hunter  r<\inimated  nie,  and  I  thought  oidv  of 
killing  the  grand  game  before  me.  I  threw  down 
my  rifle,  j'aising  the  hammer  as  the  weajton  came 
into  position,  and  the  click  of  the  lock  reached  his 
ear.  It  was  the  lirst  intimation  he  had  oT  possible 
dangei'.  and  lie  stop[>ed  and  threw  u[>  his  head  to 
look  and  listen.  My  thoughts  came  and  went  like 
flashes  of  lightning.  I  i'eniend)ered  then  the  tVim- 
ishing  condition  of  myself  aiKi  fi'iends.  Here  was 
meat,  and  1  must  save  it.  Theiv  must  be  no  nerv- 
ousness— no  Avild  shooting  now.  This  shot  iunst 
tell.  And  there  was  not  a  tremor  in  all  mv  svstem. 
Every  nerve  was  as  of  steel  for  the  instant.  The 
little  gold  bead  cm  the  muzzle  of  the  rifle  instantly 
found  the  vital  spot  behind  the  beai-'s  shoulder, 
gleamed  through  the  ivar  sight  like  a  spark  of  fii(% 
and  before  he  had  time  to  ivalize  what  the  sti-ange 
appariticm  was  that  had  so  suddenly  confionted 
him,  the  voic<^  of  the  Winchester  was  echoing 
through  the  canon  and  uu  express  buiiet  had 
crushed  tlirougii  his  vitals. 


A.\!>    nlllKi:    III   NIIN(.     A  I  >V  KN  IlitK 


/  / 


TIm»  shock  \\;is  so  siiddfii  Mild  tli»'  «'fl't'<'t  on  him  so 
(h'jidly  lh;il  he  :ii>|i;ir('iitly  tlioii.n'hr  iiothiii.i!,' of  ii.u'lit, 
bill  oidy  ol'  M'l'kiim'  ;i  jihicf  to  die  in  iicjicc. 

lie  wheeled  nn  1  sliol  into  ;i  lieiulil)oiiim-  tllicket 
with  the  s|)ee  1  of  ;i!l  lUTow.  I  lii'ed  ;it  llilll  Illillill  ;is 
he  dis:ii»[)e;ire(K       Ilecriished  throlllill  the  jlllliile  out 

into  the  open  woods,  turned  to  the  I'iLi'ht  ;ind  went 
iicross  ;i  lid ^e  IIS  if  S;it;in  hims.-lf  were  after  him. 
As  tile  !)iu'  lii-ay  iiniss  sliot  t  liroiiuii  ;i  clear  space 
between  two  trees  I  <.ia  \  e  Idlll  ailotlier  s[>eeder.  and 
tlieii  lie  disai)[)eared  beyond  a  ridue. 

The  snow  had  ]iieli<'([  rapidly  and  the  .uToiind  \vas 
bare  in  [ijaces.  so  that  I  had  some  trouble  in  trailiiiu" 
the  Ix'ar,  but  whei','\<'r  he  crossed  a  i)at('li  of  snow 
Ids  trail  was  ix'spattered  with  blood.  1  followed 
o\"er  the  rid^'e  and  lliroiiuii  scattering'  jnck  jiines, 
about  two  hiindied  \ards.  and  foiind  him  Ivinu 
dead  Mear  the  trail.  My  lirst  and  third  bullets  liad 
ii,'oiie  in  behind  his  shouUh'i'  only  an  inch  apart. 
The  lirst  had  i)ass<Ml  clear  ihronuii  him,  and  the 
other  had  lodued  au'aiust  the  skin  on  the  op[)()site 
side.  Several  ribs  weic  broken  on  either  side,  and 
his  liiiius  and  other  iioi-tions  of  his  interior  were 
,uroiind  inio  sausauv;  yet  so  uivat  was  lii>,  vitality 
and  tena<*ity  to  life  that  he  was  able  to  make  tliis 
distance  at  a,  speed  that  would  have  taxed  the  best 
horse  in  the  countrv.  and  if  he  lia<l  seen  fit  to  attack 
me  instead  of  riiiininu"  awav  he  would  inobablv 
have  made  saiisau'e  of  me. 

i'ut  w  hat  h'astiiii;'  and  what  revelry  there  was  in 
camj>  that  niulit.  It  was  a  \ouim;  bear,  fat  as 
butter,  and  rib  roasts  and  cutlets  wer^  devoured  in 
(piantities  that  would   ha\t'  sluM-ked  the  modesty  of 

1'2 


?! 


'■n 


i 


178 


(  ,'risi.\(;s  IN    riii;  cAscADiis 


;i  truiiij).  N  i'  iiiilil  well  into  llie  iiii;lit  did  we  ccnso 
to  ('III,  ;iiid  \  ipoiirsclvcs  in  oiii-  hhmkcts.  W'c  sliiid 
.several  d;iv>  '  i  tliccafioii  alter  that,  uiid  killed  phMity 
of  elk  :ilid  .►'  "T  u'ailie. 


takiii.L;  of 
the  liiiiite: 
may  jiisl  i 

The  he:.: 
))eai  — thaf 


The  skill  1  Ihe  iirizzly  is  one  of  lliemost  valiiahle 
trophies  a  "-ii  >rtsiiiaii  can  obtain  on  any  lidd,  and  its 
rarity,  aini  •  i  '  daiiuei- and  excitement  atteiidin*-' the 
I  he  conrau'e  it  Ix'speaks  on  the  pait  of 
cndcr  it  a  prize  of  wiiicli  the  winner 
■  '1  ])i<)ud  for  a  lifetime, 
('■alities  in  uhicdi  to  hnnt  the  .urizzly 
..  those  most  accessible  and  in  which  he 
is  now  ni'>>f  aiimerons— ar<' the  liii-'  IIoiii,  Shoshone, 
Wind  !fh  '!,  P,('ai-  Tootii,  ]5(d;,  and  ('razy  Monnt- 
ains.  ill  W  >iiiiii,ii' and  Montana,  all  of  \vlii(di  may  he 
easiK  re.)  'i  •  I  ))V  way  of  the  Northern  Pacitic 
road. 

Til'  l)e^'  inie  of  year  to  hnnt  I'oi'  this,  as  well 
as  all  (h  '  'f'  L 'r  si)ecies  of  large  game  in  tln^  ]^)cky 
Monutaiit.-.  "s  in  the  months  of  September.  October, 
and  No\  'i  ibej',  though  in  tlu^  latter  jnonth  the 
.sportsman,  slionld  not  yenture  high  iii)  into  the 
moniilaiii-  Iumv  heavy  snowfalls  are  llabh^  to 
occur.  Tkm  '  is  a  great  (h'al  of  bear  hunting  done 
in  the  stiat(ti.'i'  months,  hut  it  is  contrary  to  the  laws 
of  na'iue,  Mild  should  not  be  indulyed  in  bv  any 
triu^  s[Kn  r-,rtian.  The  skins  are  nearly  Avoi-thh^ss 
then.  V.  hiie  iti  the  autumn  they  are  jnime;  the  hejit 
is  o[>p!es.siv^  and  the  tiies  and  mosquitoes  are  gi  ^at 
pests. 

The  be-  uni  b)r  this  (dass  of  game  is  a  repealing 
rilie   oi    irge   calibre,    45  or  Ad,    cari\ing   a    large 


AM)    nliiKK    HI  .\ri.N(.    Al)\  KlNTl  iJi;>. 


179 


chtii'ii't*  of  powdci'  iiiid  ii  solid  l)ullet.  'V\\r  new  W'iii- 
clit'slcr  rxinvss.  -j\"„.  willi  solid  bnll.  is  ]i('ili;ips  llie 
best  in  t lif  iiiiiikcl.  all  ihiiius  coiisidcicd. 

Tliciv  arc  si'\t'i'al  iin'tliods  of  limiting  liic  xi'izzly, 
tin'  iiiosi  ('oiimionl)t'iiiuto  kill  an  t'lk,  an<l  llicii  walcli 
tli«'  carcass.  Shots  may  I'lci^iicntl y  bi'  obtained  in 
this  way  early  in  the  nioiniiin' or  late  in  t  heeveninu', 
and  on  bri.uht  nioonlii^ht  ni,!j,his  it  is  best  to  watch  all 
iii.uht,  Tor  the  im mense  size oi' the, liTizzly  I'endei's  him 
an  easy  taruvt  at  short  I'anu'e  even  by  nioonliuht. 
Aiiothei'  method  is  to  stilbhunt  him,  the  same  as  is 
done  with  deei'.  This  is  [)erhaps  the  tnost  spofts- 
maiilike  of  all,  and  if  a  conlee  or  ci'eek  bottom  ])v 
selected  whei'e  there  are  jdenty  of  ben  ies,  or  an 
<)p(^n.  hilly,  rocky  country,  wheiv  the  bears  aic  in 
the  Inibit  of  huntin,!''  Tor  worms,  oi'aiiy  ;;(»()d  feedini;- 
gi'onnd  whert^  bear  sii^iis  are  plentiful,  and  due  care 
and  caution  be  exercised,  there  is  as  .u'ood  a  (  liance 
of  success  as  bv  any  other  method.  Manv  hunters 
set  iiiiiis  with  a  cord  running  from  the  trigger  to  a, 
bait  of  fresh  meat,  and  the  miizzh^  of  the  gun  i)oint- 
ing  at  the  meat;  others  set  large  steel  trai)s  or  deaxb 
falls.  But  such  contrivances  are  never  used  bv  true 
si)()rtsinen. 

(lame  of  anv  kind  should  always  be  i)ursu(>d  in  a 
fair,  manly  mannei',  and  given  due  chance  to  pi'e- 
serve  its  life  if  it  is  skillful  enough  to  do  so.  If 
caittured,  let  it  be  by  the  sui)erior  skill,  sagacity,  or 
endurance  of  the  sportsman,  not  by  trai)s  which 
close  on  it  as  it  innocently  and  unsuspectingly  seeks 
its  food. 

drizzly  bear  hunting  is  un([uestional)ly  the  grand- 
est  sport  that  our  continent    all'ords.     The  grizzly 


i'i 


ISO 


(  i;ri>iN(.>  IN   I  III;  (Axauks. 


is  till' only  r<':illy  (hiii.uvroiis  uMiMr  \\r  li:i\<'.  ;iiul  tliB 
(l<'<'i(l»'(llv  luiZMidoiis  cliar.-ictrr  of  the  >|K)i'r  is  wliiit 
U'ivi's  it  its  uTt'jilcst  /('sl.  ;iii(l  it'iidns  ji  i  lie  most  His- 
ciiniliii.U'  of  i>iiisnils.  M:iiiy  sportsiiicii  idocliiitii  the 
Mipcrioiily  of  llii'ir  finoritc  iKistiinc  ovtT  nil  oilirr 
kiiid^,  !)••  it  (luail,  uioiisc.  <>r  (liicl-;  sliootiiiu',  fox- 
cliiisiiiu',  (It'cr-staliviiiii',  or  what  not:  and  facli  lia>  its 
ciiariii,  iiioit'  or  less  iniciisc,  accoidiiiu'  to  its  nature; 
lait  no  luaii  ever  ft'lt  liis  JD'art  surl]  with  inidc,  iiis 
nerves  tiiiule  witl- aiiiiualioii.  his  whole  system  iilo\v 
with  wild,  iincontiollalile  enthusiasm,  at  the  hau'- 
liinu' of  any  l)ird  oi'  small  animal,  as  <h)es  the  man 
who  stands  over  the  j)rostiaIe  form  of  a  monster 
uri/./ly  that  lie  has  slain.  Let  the  devotee  of  these 
other  ('lasses  of  sport  try  beai'  hiiiitin,u',  and  when  he 
has  hai^'^ed  his  lirst  ,uriz/ly.  then  let  him  talkl 


i  i  .,{ 


I 


© 


O 


o 


© 


nrAPTKi?  \xii. 

i:i-K    HI    VTIN,;    ,x    •,■,,,,;    ,;,„  KV 
'''  M<»l   .\TAI.\>. 

J'"     illl    tile    !;il<i(>     (i-iiii,.    ,vi,     fi,  » 

\  _  ■'".-'      -.Illlt'    oil     tile    Allicjic'ii) 

'■'^'''•;"-M..st.t!...,u-,,,n.l..s,.tlH.sini..|i,.s, 
''""''     *'"^''"'^     '""lii'iu'   IVoM.    ll,rn..l,lr 

•^<'HI.'ll,vw|,„.|M,„l,,,,i,    tclh.  |,„„T(>r 
;I-''^;"='"-   '-''^i'— llMH>ss.ss.s.HHv,|..a.nv 
in.   ^>   r.,Kk.r  lun.  .   vi,ihnn    s,.n,in..I  of  his  ouu 

Ili^i^n'at  s.V.<>;,n,I  iKnv.Hi.lmnsrnlarrousiniriion 
^•ive  J.nu  alinos,  nnUnuuU.i  ..ulm-anr...  NV|„,, 
nnnn.,l(„.  purs,,..!  J,,   will  l,;,v,.l    ror,uv„(v    or 

1'inMlorJoodorr.s,.     H.  is  .  p,..,,.!.  l<.:„-l..ss  n,,,..,  • 

^'nd  rv.u  when  sin.ply  mi,uT:,,ino.  iVoni  (HUM,,!...,:  or 
;'"""'t=.,Hstoano,lH.,  willt,,v.l  iron.  s.veHt;.!!  e 
^•"•'  J"nHliV(Un,I.s  without  ]yino,hnvn  H,:  is  -t 
^''^"•^•<'l<"'s     u.ountain..,,,     „„!.    '  ronsi<h'.nii./    Jn, 


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182 


CKlIslNdS    IN   TIIK   CASCADK.-^ 


iiniiKMist'  sizi'  and  wei^lit,  often  iis<«'ii<ls  to  h»*iirlits 
that  s«'»Mn  incivdihh'.  Ht*  may  ofttMi  l"*  lomul  a\v:iy 
111*  to  timluM-  lin«^  and  will  traverse  narrow  (ki^s.-s 
and  deliles,  ('lind)in,i;'  over  walls  f»t'  ro<-k  and  tlK'-ouiih 
fissures  wliere  it  would  s«^ein  imi»ossihle  I'm-  so  iarue 
an  animal,  witli  such  massive  antlers  as  he  caiiies, 
to  iio.  lie  chooses  ids  route,  iiowevei-.  with  rare 
<i-ood  judunient,  and  all  mountaineers  kn<»'v  that  an 
elk  trail  is  the  Ix'st  that  can  }>ossil)|y  l»e  selected 
over  any  uiven  section  of  mountainous  countiy. 
His  fa<'idty  of  traversiuu'  dense  juiiules  an<l  wind- 
falls is  e(|ually  astoiushinu'.  if  uiven  his  own  time, 
he  will  move  quietly  and  easily  throuirh  the  worst  of 
these,  leapin.u:  over  lous  higher  than  his  hack  as 
uracefullv  and  almost  as  liuhtlv  as  the  deer:  vet  let 
a  herd  of  elk  he  alarmed  and  start  on  a  run  thiouiih 
on'M)f  these  lahvrintlnne  masses,  and  thev  will  make 
a  noise  like  a  reiiiment  of  cavahy  on  a  i)reci}iitous 
charire. 

I  have  stoo  1  on  the  maruin  of  a  quakinii-asp 
thicket  and  heaid  a  larue  hand  of  elk  <-oniiim 
toward  me  that  had  heen  "jumped"  and  tired  uit<>n 
hy  my  friend   at  the  other  side,   and  the   friirlitful 

>ise  of  their  liorns  i)oundii\i;' the  trees,  their  hoofs 


noi 

strikini;"  each  other  and  the  numerous  rocks,  the 
crashinu' of  dead  hranches.  with  the  snortinir  of  the 
atfriuhted  heasts,  mii;ht  well  have  struck  terror  to 
the  heart  of  anyone  unused  to  su<'h  siirhts  and 
sounds,  and  have  caused  him  lo  seek  safety  in 
iliuht.  ]5ut  l)y  standiui;'  my  liiound  1  was  enahh-d 
to  lie t  in  a  coui»le  of  shots  at  short  ra Mire,  and  t() 
hiinii'  down  two  of  tlie  linest  animals  in  the  held. 
The  whistle  of   the  elk  is  a  sound  which  manv 


AM)  oiilKi;  111  NiiNc;   .\l>\  i;.\ 


IS} 


liav«*  liifd  f(»  (Icscrihc.  yet  I  doiilit  i:  ;'ii\  oin' w  ho 
limy  li:i\  »>  i>';i(l  all  tin'  (lrs('ri[>ti<tiis  oi'  •  .  vt-r  u  ritU'ii 
would  rrcouiii/c  ir  on  a  lirsr  licariiiu-.  :i  is  a  most 
stiaiii:*'.  \v»'ii(|.  peculiar  sound.  l»allliii^  ;  il  «'tl'orts  of 
tli»' most  sl\illl"ul  word  painter.  It  is  <  i  .  iitti'i«'d  l>y 
tli»'  iiiah',  and  then'  is  tlif  saint  varirf.  'i  lli«'  soiukI 
inadf*  Ity  dillVrrnt  staiis  as  in  dillVr»'nl  i  nan  voices. 
I  siinlly  tlit'ciy  lu'uins  and  ends  w  itli  ::  -'  1 1  ol"  uinnt. 
somewhat  like  the  Itellow  ot'a  doinesti«  <  .\  «Mit  short, 
hilt  the  interlude  is  a  loii^-diawn.  ni»  • 
like  sound  that  lisi's  and  Falls  with  ; 
("uh-nee.  lloatin^'on  the  still  evening  ; 
it  is  often  wafted  with  sin^nlai'  distiui  ' 
tlistanres.  I5y  other  individuals,  or  < 
same  individual  at  varior.s  times,  eiti  • 
last  of  thtT-se  ahriijit  sounds  is  oniitte(l. 
otlie)-.  in  i'onnectioii  with  the  lonu-(,, 
toiM'd  strain,  is  ^iven. 

The  stau-  litters  this  call  only  in  the 
season,  and    for    the    |iiirpose   of    a>i ' 
wherealxmts  of  his  dusky  mate,  who  m 
slu»rt  an<l  utterly  iinmiisical  sound,  sli 
with  which  the  male  begins  or  ends  hi-  - ;;  I. 

Once,  when  exi>lorin,u' in  Idaho.  I  hai  :  n  iiiterest- 
inu'  and  excitiiiu'  experience  with  a  i  :  .  d  of  «'lk. 
]  had  canijied  for  the  niiihtona  hiuh  dJ  '.♦•.  Iietween 
two  hranclies  of  the  Clearwater  river.  ':  •  ••  weather 
had  heeii  intensely  dry  and  hot  for  sev<  ;  days,  and 
the  tall  rye  liiass  that  urew  in  the  <»ld  1  '..ii  where  I 
had  pitched  my  <amp  was  dr_\  as  pov. (!♦,•.  'I'lieie 
was  a  p'litle  hi-eeze  from  tlK'  south.  F«  arin.!;'  that  a 
spark  miuht  he  carried  into  tlie<4rass,  I  cxtiniitiished 
my  caini>-lire  as  soon  as  i  had  cooked  ain^  *  a^en  my 


!ioii'^.  Iliite- 
;  hyt  hmical 
r.  l»y  which 

*  s>  to  gle;it 

'  n  Ity  the 
1  he  lirsl  <ir 
id  only  the 
.11.    >ilver- 

ive-iiiaking- 
'aininu-  the 

I'Ollds  hy  ;i 

:ii    to  that 


If! 


■  (I 


i!l 


i, 


;  i 


184 


(•|MISI.\(;<    I\    THE    CASCADES 


THE  W.lP/ri,  oil  AMKRICAN  KLK. 


A.Nu  oiiiKK'  III  .\ii.\(,   .\i>vi;.\ n  i;i: 


I  s:. 


sni)ppi-.     As  (liiikiirss  (livw  oil.  I  w.-m  out  i,,  pick,-! 

my  liois.'s  iiiul  noticed  tli;it  tliry  w.'iv  ;i<Mili- 
sfrMiiucly.  TIk'V  wvjv  lookiiiu'  douii  the  iiioiiMt.-iiii 
side  uitli  ,.:iis  point. ■(!  l"oi\v;ii(k  siiiniii-  tli..  ;iir  :iiid 
iHDviim  alxmr  mit'Msilv. 

I  .unyc  rheir  i)ick.'t  r<»i»i-.s:i  fiini  jii'oiuid convenient 
jjick  pines.  ;ind  then  slippin- caiitioiislv  l.nck  lo  the 
tent,  o-ot  my  rill.'  ;in.l  letmn.-l.      I  ,.ou|",l  s.v  nothinn 
stninu-e  Mild  s:it  d..\vn  Ix-sj.l,.  a  |on-  t,,  ;,\v;iit  d.'\.'I.,ir 
nients.      (nn  r.nvniinul.'s  I  l„.;,rd  ;,  de;i<l  linihl.iv.Mk. 
Then  th.'iv   \w.s  :i   lusilin-'  in  ;i  Ixmch  ..1'  tall,  .liy 
^TMss:  ni()ivsn;,ppin-(,rt\vi,os:nidsli:ikinu<)n)nsh..s. 
I  ascei-mined  that  ih.'iv  u.mv  s.'v.Tal  lar,-v  aiiiniMls 
niovino' tou-ard  nie  and  IVaiv.l  it   mi-lit  !.<•  a  lainily 
of  hears.     I  h-ar-'d    it.  I  say.  he.'ans..  it  uas  n..\v  s'o 
dark  tli.it  I  conid  not  see  toshooi  at  any  .listaiKv.  an.l 
knew  that  if  hears  cam.'  near  t li.' iio'rs.'s  th.-  latter 
would  l)r.':ik  Iheir  ropes  and  stami.ede.     J   ili,,iiMl,r 
of  shontin.ii'   and   tryin-'  to    friuhl.'ii  th.-iii  oil',   hnr 
(h'cided  to  await  deveIoi)ments.      I»ivs.-nily   I   h.'ard 
a  sn;ij.i»in,u' of  hoofs  and  a  sncc.'ssj(»n  of  diiH,  heavv. 
thmiipiiiii' neis.'s.  :i<  coini)aniea  hy  r.'j..)its  of  hivak- 
inuhriish.  which   J    kn.-w  at   .)n<'.'  w.-r.- mad.'  hy  a 
band  ol'  elk  jiinipiiiu' ov.-i  a  hiuh  lou'. 

Th.'  uaiii.>   was  now    n..t    moiv    than    iiriy    vards 
away  and  in  op.-n  -I'.Miii.l,  y.'i  I  c.)!!],!  n..i   se..'..v.-n 

'I  i'«>v.' nt.  lor  I  was  looking' down  towar.l  a  dark 

rahon.  many  hnndivds  of  f,.,.t  d,.,.p.  Slowly  ti- 
^•reat  heasts  worked  toward  in.'.  Tli.'y  w.-r.'  .■.iminu. 
<l()wn  wind  and  1  fdr  sure  conhl  noi  s.-miI  in.'.  hiiT 
tlicy  conld  e\i(hMitly  sc  my  hors.'s.  ..ntlin.'d  auaiiist 
tlu'  sky.  and  had  doiihtless  heard  them  snoriin- 
and  niovinu'  ahont. 


I 


ISC. 


(•|MI>IN«.-    I.\     IIIK    (  ASCADKS 


Tlic  jtoiiirs  nrt'\,-  iiior*' jiiixioiiN  l>iit  less  I'l  iulitciiHd 
tlijiii  ;it  liist.  ;iii(l  st'fiiit'd  now  (l(-<ii(iiis  o(  making 
tlu'  ac(iiiaiutaii('»'  of  tlieir  wild  visitois, 

Sloulv  tlu'  nlk  moved  I'orwaid  until  witliiii  tlilitv 

«  « 

or  forty  IV'ct  (»f  mt'.  wIkmi  I  could  l.^uiu  to  discern 
by  tlic  stai'liiilit  tiicir  dark,  shauuy  forms.  Then 
they  stopiied.  I  could  licai'  them  sniftinu'  the  air 
and  coidd  set' them  movinu'  cautiously  fiom  j.lace 
to  place,  ajtpareiitly  suspicious  of  tlanuer.  IJiit 
they  were  coiinnu'  down  wind,  could  .uet  no  indica- 
tion of  my  [tresence,  and  were  anxious  to  interview 
the  horse's. 

Thev  moved  slowlv  forward,  and  when  thev 
stoi.iied  this  time',  two  old  l)ulls  and  one  cow, 
who  were  in  the  front  rank,  so  to  speak,  stood 
within  ten  feet  of  me.  Their  ureat  liorns  towered 
u\)  like  the  In-anches  of  (U\iil  trees,  and  1  <'ould  he;ir 
them  Itreaihe. 

A.ii'ain  they  circled  from  side  to  side  and  I  tliouulit 
surely  they  woidd  uet  far  enough  to  one  (punter  (»i' 
the  other  to  wind  me.  hut  thev  did  not.  Several 
other  cows  and  two  timid  little  calves  crowded  to  tlie 
front  to  look  at  their  liornless  cousins  wlnniow  stood 
close  behind  me.  and  even  in  tlie  starlight,  I  could 
have  sh(>t  any  (»ne  of  them  between  the  eyes. 

M\  saddle  cavuse  uttered  a  low  ueutle  whinnv, 
whereat  tile  whole  band  wheeled  and  dashed  away, 
but  after  making  a  few  leai»s  their  momentary  scare 
set'ined  to  snl)side.  and  tliey  stopped,  looked,  snoi'ted 
a  few  tini.eis  and  then  began  to  edge  u^)  again— this 
time  even  more  shvlv  than  before. 

It  was  intensely  interestinu-  to  sttidv  the  caution 
and  circumsj.ection    with     which     these    creatures 


« 


Til.  (.nly  n.israk.  tl,.y   M.a.l..  an.l  <„,..  :u   ul.irh 


lUlcll 


-..u..,r:.ri/t;.:;;x,:;rr:;,,:::H;,:':,,:i 
:v;;,;;;;;:r"'^'''-''^''<'"^--'-Miu...^ 

As  l,er,„,.  ,t,f„,.  I  ,.,,,,1,1  ,,  ,„„,  ,.,,„,.,, 

I    ■  I,.,        I„,r,„y„„|y|,n,.k.,„„.,„  „•„,,„„,, 

fMri,.,„.l,ii„>v,,,,,i,.,||„„,„„^,ll       ,.  ' 

mill  w,is  iiiiu    ii,|„-  ,,,  ...,^,,.    ,     „         I  '  "  "1  III' .11. 

'i"-'""i;'i.  „r  tiiei.„ii,.ikK,„,vt„,.,,-,.p,,r.b,. 
iH.siu.,i.sti„.„M„|.v,„.,„,, „,.„;„.,,  ,.„„,-.i.  .  ,; 

,,,,,l,,,M,,y,,,,,|i.,.,,,..,.,|„,,,^,   ,.,,,-       ' 

,ai»«rliol  1,^,1,.:  ir  ,i,ufii|.,.s  „,„i  i,„,.,i..„.  :..  ...       ■ 


,         ^.  ''^  III"'   liiiiili'lls  ill    Vli"iisr  . 

e.i.lMo  rij  ,.„ii,.|„.„,„,,  „.i„,  ^,„_^.  ,.^.^^1  ^l_^^^^,^^^^_^^^^  .^1 


HJII 
1 


'       !| 


IKS 


(  iMISINo    I.\     illi;   (  AS<  Ain; 


Ills  Wiiy.    Tilt'  nittiliu'  sc.isou  ovrl'.   lie  liMs  lio  ruillK'i 

list' tor  his  .Hitlers  until  tiif  i.*'Xt  :iiitiiiiiii,  :in<l  lli»^v 
<|jo])(»IV.  1'liiis  the  inoccss  is  it'|M':itf'(l,  vc'ir  iil'tfi 
v«';ir.  ;is  iciiiil:irly  ;is  the  Icnvcs  uiow  and  lull  I'lcmi 
tllf  lives.       Ill  It   it  si'clMsil  St  I'M  nut'  l>Jo\  isidll  of  liMllllv 

tliiit  should  loiid  MM  fiiiinuil  with  sixty  to  si'vciity- 
livf  iioiimls  of  horns,  for  hiiH"  lln*  y«':ir.  when 
wt'iiitoiis  of  on»'-(jii;ii't('r  tin-  si/c  mikI  weiuht  \v<»nl(l 
!»'  »'»|ii;illy  clViM't i\'<'  il"  !ill  wri)'  Minicd  nlikr. 

I  have  ill  my  colleciioii  the  head  of  a  ludl  elk, 
killed  ill  the  Shoslioiir  Mountains,  in  NortlnMii 
Wyoininii.  the  antlers  oi"  w  hirh  nieasine  as  j'ollows: 

J.(i'n,iith  of  main   l)eam.  -i  feet   S  incln  s:  leiiuJli  ot 

l)l'e\\    line.  I  foot   (i,i  inclirs;    lenutll  of  Ites  tille.   1    foot 

8A  im-lics;  leiiuih  oi"  i()\al  tine.  I  fool  7  inches; 
l«*n,ulh  of  siirroyal.  I  fool  SA^  inches:  ciicnmfeit'nce 
around  l>iiir.  1  fool  :'>^  inches;  circumference  aioiind 
l)eam  al)o\c  lniir.  I  i  iiiclie'^;  ciitaimfeience  (»!' In-ou- 
tine  at  l>:ise.  7^  inches;  sjji-cad  of  main  l>eams  al  tips. 
4  feel  1)  inche>.  They  ai'c  om' of  1  he  hirii'esr  and  tinesi 
]tairs  of  antlers  of  which  I  liav<'  any  knowledge. 
'IMie  animal  when  killed  would  have  wei<.ihed  nearly 
a  thousand  jxMinds. 

The  elk  is  sti'ictly  u'leuarious.  and  in  wintei-  time, 
especiallx.  the  animals  uatliHT  into  larirc  bands,  and 
a  few  years  aiio  heids  of  fioni  li\e  hiindretl  to  a 
thon.saiid  were  not  nnc(»mmon.  Now.  however,  their 
niiml)eis  liavc  heeii  so  far  reduced  l>y  the  ra\aii"es 
of  '"skin  hunters"  and  olher.s  that  one  will  raiely 
lind  more  than  twent\-live  or  thirlv  in  a  hand. 

In  the  fall  of  IS71>.  a  ]iarty  of  three  men  Wi'W 
siuhl-seeinu'  and  hnnlinu'  in  the  Yellowstone  Na- 
tional Park,  and  having  i>rol<)nged  theii  stay  until 


A\i»  <>iiii:i;  iirNTiMi  Ai>\  in  i  r  i;i; 


IS'> 


hitc  ill  (  )ri()lM'i',  \\f\r  (»\i'rt;lk<'ii  Ity  ;i  friril»li'  >n(i\v- 
stoiiii.  wliidi  ('oiiijticlrly  l)l(ti'k:i<l»'(l  and  <>l)litt'i;iti'(l 
.-ill  iIm-  tniils.  iiikI  liilt'd  tlif  unlclirs.  nifions,  jiiid 
<'(Hll<'cs   to  siirli  ;l  (jcplli   tli;if  their   JKdsc-;  ntiild    liot. 


tnivf'l   ovrf    lih'iM  ill   :il 


'I'licv 


li;i(|    l;iiii    111   <-;iiMl> 


tlii't'*' (|:iys  \v;iitiiiLi'  I"**!' llic  stor.n  l<»  iiliatc:  l»iit  ;is  it 
('((iiiiniitMl  t<»  ,ur<»\v  ill  x-xt'iity,  mikI  ;is  tlic  >ii(>\v 
l»('(';ini<'  (l('«'|)('r  ;iii(l  »l»'»'[)('r.  lln'ir  sitiuitioti  utcu  (hiiiy 
and   lioiirly   iiioiv   ;il;iriiiiii.u-.     Their  stuck   of   jno- 

visioiis  \v;is  low,  they  Ii;id  lio  shelter  silfiicielit  to 
withst.'iiid  the  riuois  (tf  a  whiter  :it  thiit  liiuh  iilti- 
tllde.  iiiid  it  w;is  [';ist  bccoiilillii,' ;i  <ii|eslioii  whetiier 
they  should  e\«'r  l)e  ;il)le  to  J'SCilpe  lieyoiid  the  siiow- 
<'lad  jx'tiks  and  siiow-lilled  caMoiis  with  v^  hich  they 
w«'re  heiiiined  ill.  Their  only  ho[)e  of  escape  was  hy 
abaudouiiiLi-  their  horses,  and  construct iiiu'  snow- 
shoes  which  iiiiiiht  k(M'i»  them  ahove  the  snow;  but 
in  tliiscase  thev could  not  carrv  beddinu' and  food 
cnouiih  to  last  them  throimhoiit  the  several  davs 
that  the  journey  would  occupy  to  the  nearest  ranch, 
and  the  chances  of  killinu'  uanie  r/^  rouh'  after  tlie 
isevere  weather  had  set  in  were  extremely  }trecari(Mis, 
They  had  already  set  about  makinii'  snow-shoes 
from  the  skin  of  an  elk  which  tiiey  had  saved.  One 
pair  had  been  <-ompleted.  and  the  storm  having 
abated,  one  of  the  party  set  out  tu  look  o\er  the 
suri'oundiini'  country  for  the  most  feasiiile  route  l>y 
whi<'li  to  get  out,  and  also  to  try  if  possible  to  lind 
game  of  some  kind,  lb-  had  gone  al»out  a  mile 
toward  the  northeast  when  he  came  u[>on  the  fresh 
trail  of  a  huge  band  of  elk  that  were  moving  toward 
the  east,  lie  follow(Mi.  and  in  a  short  time  came  u]) 
with  them.     Thev  were  travelini''  in  simile  lil«»,  led 


n 


VM) 


(  i;i  i^i\<is  IN  nil;  «  as(  aius 


liy  :i  pnwcrliil  old  hull,  w  lii>  wnllowcd  tlnoiiuh  snow 
ill  wliirh  (»iil\  his  lictid  iiiid  in'ck  wciv  vi>il»lt'.  with 
all  the  |i:iti<'n('»' and  itdscv  cianct' of  a  I'ailhriil  old 
ox.  Tilt' otin'is  I'oIIowimI  him — llif  s  roiipT  ones  in 
fionr  and  tli*'  w«'ak«'r  ones  hiiniiinu  up  th*-  ifar. 
There  were  t hill \ -sfveii  ill  the  l»aiid.  and  by  tiie 
time  thev  had  all  walked  in  the  same  line  tlicv  lelt 
it  an  open,  well  Itcatcii  trail.  The  Ininter ai>i)n)ached 
within  a  IVw  vards  of  tlwiii.  Thev  were  uir'atlv 
alainied  when  thev  saw  him.  and  mad*'  a  h'W  hounds 
in  various  directions;  hut  seeinu  their  stniuules 
were  in  vain,  they  meekly  siihmit ted  to  what  seemed 
their  imitendinu  fate,  and  lell  hack  in  rearol'  their 
iiledeader.  This  would  have  ))een  the  lioldeii  oppor- 
tunity of  a  skin  hunter,  who  could  and  would  have 
shot  them  all  down  in  their  tracks  from  a  sin.ule 
stand,  lint  such  was  not  the  mission  of  our  friend. 
He  saw  in  this  n(>hle,  struii'iiiinu'  hand  a  means  of 
deliverance  from  wiiat  iiad  threatened  to  he  a  wintry 
^rave  for  him  and  iiis  companions.  Ih'  (li<l  not  tire 
a  shot,  and  did  not  in  anv  wav  create  unnecessarv 
alarm  aiiionnst  the  elk.  hut  liurried  hack  to  camp 
and  reported  to  his  friends  wliat  lie  had  seen. 

Ill  a  iiKJinent  tlie  camp  was  a  scem^  of  activity  and 
excitement.  Tent,  beddinu'.  provisions,  everything 
that  was  ahsohitelv  necessarv  to  their  ioiirnev.  were 
hurriedly  packed  upon  their  i)ack  animals;  saddles 
were  phu'ed,  rities  were  slunu'  to  the  saddles,  and 
leavinu'  all  suri)lus  l^augage,  siicli  us  trophies  of 
tluMr  hunt,  mineral  si)ecimens  and  curios  of  various 
kinds,  for  future  ccmiers,  they  started  for  the  elk 
trail.  They  ii.id  a,  slow,  tedious,  and  lahorious  task, 
breaking  a  way  through  the  deep  snow  to  reach  it. 


AM>   n|||i;i;    Iir\||\».    A  l»\  liNII  lIKs. 


191 


but  iiy  \v;ilkiim  ;iii(|  It'iidiiiu  tlieir  s:i(l<ll«'  :iiiiiii:ils 
iilit'iid.  tilt'  pnck  ;iiiim:iN  wciv  ;il>l»'  ti»  fnllou  >lnu  \\ . 
Fiii;illy  tln'V  i»';ii'li»'(l  ilit-  ti;iil  nl"  llifcll^  lit-id.  mikI 
t'dllou  inu  tliis.  :il"i»'r  nine  (l;iys  nl"  ti'didiis  ;iii(l  puiiiliil 
tr.'ivi'liiiii'.  tlif  iciitx  iiilivfd  ;il  :i  iMiirli  on  (he 
StiiiUiiiu'     W.ih'i      river,    wliicli     \v;is     kepi     l»y    a 


>( 


|ii:i\\    iiiiiit 


Mild     liis     wift 


w 


licit'      tlli'X'     WCIf 


<miji1)|»m1  to  ludu<'  Mini  ivciiiil  tlit'iiisrhcs  Mild  tlH'ir 
stock.  Mild  whence  tliey  liiiMlly  reMi'lie<l  tlieir  lioincs 
in   SMl'cty.      'IMle    hMIld    of    elk    liMssed    oil    (jowii     llic 

river,  Mild  oiir  toiiiists  never  smw  tlieiii  MuMiii;  l)Uf 
tliey  liMve  doubtless  loiiu"  eie  this  m11  I'Mlleii  M  ])rey  to 
the  ruthless  \v;»r  tliMt  is  coiistMiitly  lieini;'  Nva^i;-ed 
Muiiinst  tlieiH  by  hunters  white  mikI  red. 

It  is  sMd  io  think  tliMt  su<'h  m  noble  creMture  ms  the 
Anierican  elk  is  doomed  to  cMily  Miid  Mbsoliite 
extinction,  but  such  is  nevertheless  the  I'Mct.  YeMl' 
bv  vcMr  his  inountMin  liMbitMt  is  bein^'  surrounded 
and  encroM(died  upon  by  the  MdvMnciiiu'  line  ol"  set- 
tlements. MS  the  UshermMn  encircles  the  stiim;ii:lin,j;' 
mass  ol'  tishes  ill  the  cIcmi'  pond  with  his  loii^-  und 
(dosely-meshe(l  net  TIm'  lines  nre  diMwn  closer  mikI 
closer  cMcIl  VCMl'.  These  lines  Ml'e  the  iMllclies  of 
cMttle  and  sheep  raisers,  the  cabins  mikI  towns  of 
miners,  tlu^  stMtioiis  nnd  residences  of  em])loy6s  of 
the  railroMds.  All  these  ]i1mc(^s  Mre  made  the  shelters 
and  temiiorary  abidinu'  places  of  Eastern  and  for- 
eiu'ii  sportsmen  who  uo  out  to  the  mountains  to 
hunt.  Worse  than  this,  they  Mie  niMde  the  perma- 
nent abidinu'  places,  and  cfuistitiite  the  active  and 
convenient  markets  of  the  nefariousand  unconscion- 
able skin  hunter  and  meat  liunter.  Here  lie  can 
Hnd  a  ready  market  for  the  meats  and  skins  he 


i 


.\M»    nrilKl;    lir\IIN(;     \l»\  KNTI  UKS. 


V.Ki 


liriiiu's  ill.  ;iii(|  :iii  (iiiiioi't unity  to  sim-ikI  tli*-  luocfj-ds 
(»i"  siicli  ()Mti':m«'niis  ir;illi('  in  laiirli  uliisUv  imd  i»'v- 
t'iiA.  'I'lir  riiiiciinn'ii  tii»'ms»'lv<'s  hunt  and  lav  in 
tiK'ir  stock  <»!'  nit-at  for  ilif  year  uIhmi  tiir  ^ani»' 
conit's  down  into  tin-  \ali«'ys.  Tlic  Indians.  \\li«'U 
tliry  liav«M«at»'n  np  tln'ir  <iovt'rnin»'nt  lations.  lie  in 
wait  for  tilt'  flk  in  tin-  sani«»  manner.  S(»  that  ulim 
tli<'  lirsi  uTcat  Ml  •vsol'  the  antnnin  or  winltT  fall  in 
t!M'  hiuh  ian,u«'s,  w'i»'n  the  elk  hand  tou»'tlit'r  and 
s«'»'k  i'«*rn<i«'  in  tli-  \allt'ys.  as  did  th*' ln'vd  that  (Mir 
I'ortnnato  ton;i>ts  loilowcd  ont,  lln'y  find  a  inix«'(l 
and  hnnury  liord*'  uaitinii"  for  iht'iii  at  the  month  <»f 
cvt'iv  canon,     Jicfor*'  iIicn  have  iracjifd  fh"  vallcv 

t  *  • 

where  the  snow-l'all  is  liuht  enon.uh  to  allow  theni 
to  live  thronuh  the  winter  their  .skins  are  diyin^-  in 
the  neiichborinu'  "shrieks." 

Tli's  nneipial,  one-sided  warfare,  this  rnthless 
slanuhtei'  of  inoll'ensive  cieatnies,  can  not  last 
always.  Indeed,  it  can  last  but  little  lonuer.  In 
ranu'es  where  onlv  a  few  vears  auo  liei-ds  of  four  or 
live  hnndied  elk  could  he  found,  the  hunter  of 
to-day  considers  himself  in  rare  luck  when  he  linds 
a  hand  of  ten  or  twelve,  and  even  small  hands  of 
anv  number  are  s<>  rare  ihat  a  uood  hunter  mav 
(►ften  hunt  a  week  in  the  best  elk  country  to  he 
found  anywhere  without  uviiinua  single  shot.  All 
the  Tei'iitories  have  ^(tod.  wholesome  name-laws 
wiilch  I'oi'bld  tlie  killin.u'  of  uanie  animals  except 
durini;'  two  oi-  thive  months  in  tiie  fall:  but  these 
laws  are  not  enfoi'ced.  They  aie  a  dead  h-tteron 
the  statute-books,  and  the  illeii'al  and  illeicitimate 
:skiui^l)ter  uoes  on  unchecked . 


13 


CUAPTKH  XXIII. 

AXTi:L(»ri:  imntin*.  in  Montana. 

F  Jill  t lie  iimiKMoiis  sjit'cit's  of  liii'.uc  unnic  To  1)«^ 

found  ill  lh«'  fill'  West,  tli«Mv  is  none  wiiose 

,)   pursiiif  fiiniisliHs  urnndcr  sport  to  the  expert 

ip  litlt'iiiiiH  tlmii     liie   ;iiit«'lope    [Antilocaitra 

(iiiierivaud).      His    li:ihir:it  l)ein<;'  the  liiuh, 

R/^ open  ])l;iiiis.   h«'    luiiv    Ix'    hiilitt'd  oil  lioist.'- 

bjM'k.   Mild    with    a    luiich   ureattM-  deuree    of 

eoiiifort  than  may  the  dct'i',   elk.  hear,  and 

^•'■-    other    s[)e(*i«^s   wliieh    inlial>it   the   wooded   or 

H'.l    nioujitainoiis    districts.       His    keen   eyesiulit, 

line    sens(»    of    siii«dl.   his    iutcnsc  fear   of    liis 

iiatuial  enemy,  man.    however,  render  him  tiie  most 

difiieiilt   of    all    .uanie    animals    lo    ai>pioa('h,    and 

lir  must  indeed  be  a   skillful  hunter  who  can  juet 

within  easv  ritle  ranu'e  of  the  aiiteloi»e.  unless  lie 

happens  ro  hav<'  thr  ('irciimstaiiees  of  wind  and  lie  of 

uround  i)e('uliarlv  in  his  favor.     AVIien  the  uame  is 

tirst  sighted,   even  thoiiuli  it  be  one,  two,  or  three 

miles  awav,   voii  must  either  dismount  and  picket 

your  horse,  or  iind  cover  in    some  coulee  or  draw, 

where  you  can  riile  entirely  out  of  sight  of  the  (piarry. 

But  ev«Mi  under  such  I'avoiahle  circumstances  it  is 

not  well  to  attempt  to  ride  very  near  them.     Their 

sense  of  heariim'  is  also  verv  acute,  and  should  vour 

horse's  hoof  or  shoe  strike  a  loose  rock,  or  should  he 

(1!>4) 


AND    OTIIKI:    HI'\TI.\(i    ADV  K.V  IT  K  KS. 


V.C) 


snort  or  iU'iL;li,  tli»>  uanif  is  likely  lo  catch  the  sound 
while  voii  are  vet  «Mitirelv  out  ol"  s'uht:  and  farawav, 
and  when  yon  linally  <'reep  cantionsly  to  the  top  of 
the  ridii'e  from  which  yon  exjtect  a  I'avoraltle  sli(»t, 
yon  may  Hnd  the  uanie  placidly  lookinu-  for  yon 
i'rom  the  top  of  another  ridu'e  a  mile  or  two  I'arthei- 
away. 

lint  we  will  hope  that  yon  are  to  have  better  Inck 
than  this.  To  start  with,  we  Avill  presnmethat  yon 
are  an  exi)ert  I'ilitMnan;  that  yoii  ai-e  in  the  habit  of 
making  iiood  scores  at  the  bntts;  that  at  8tM>,  ixio, 
and  1. (»(»()  yards  von  i'retinentlv  sc(n'e  'i(»(»  to  :21<)  ont 
of  a  possible  2*i.">  points.  We  will  also  suppose  that 
yon  are  a  hunter  of  some  experieiict^;  that  you  have 
at  least  killed  a  good  many  deer  in  the  Stat<'s,  but 
that  this  is  your  lirst  tri})  to  the  plains.  You  have 
learned  to  estimate  distances,  however,  even  in  this 
rare  {dmosi)here,  and  i)ossess  good  judgment  as  to 
windage.  Y(ni  have  l)rought  your  Creedmoor  ritie 
along,  divested,  of  ccnu'se.  of  its  Wnier  sight,  wiiul- 
gnage.  and  s]iiritdevel.  and  in  th(nr  i)la('es  yon  have 
litted  a  Beach  combination  front  sight  and  Lyman 
rear  sight.  Besides  these  von  have  the  ordinary 
open  step  sight  attached  to  the  liarrel  just  in  front  of 
the  action.  This  is  not  th(0)estarm  for  antelope  hunt- 
ing: a  AVinchester  exi)ress  with  i''e  same  sights 
would  be  much  better;  l»utthis  will  answer  very  A\«dl. 

We  camped  last  night  on  the  baidv  of  a  cleai'. 
rai[)id  stream  that  gurgles  down  from  the  mountain, 
and  this  morning  are  n^)  long  before  daylight; 
have  eaten  our  breakfasts,  saddled  our  hor^^es. 
and  just  as  the  gray  of  dawn  begins  to  snow 
over  the  low,   tiat  prairie  to  the  east  of   us,  m  ^ 


19G 


<"i;riSIN(.S    iX    THE    "A>rAl>KS 


nKMinr.  niid  ;ir«'  Vi'iuly  fuitlie  stair,  TIih  wind  is  from 
tlie  iioitln^Jist.  Tliat  suits  us  very  well,  for  in  tliat 
direction,  about  a  mile  away,  then*  are  some  low 
foot-hills  that  skirt  the  vallev  in  wliirli  we  are 
camited.  In  or  just  bevond  these  we  are  verv  likely 
to  lind  antelo2)e,  and  tliey  will  jaobably  be  coniinu' 
toward  the  creek  this  morninu-  for  water. 

We  i)iit  spurs  to  our  liorses  and  uallop  away.  A 
brisk  and  exhilaratinu'  ride  of  ten  minutes  brinirs  us 
to  the  footdiills.  and  then  we  rein  up  and  ride 
slowlv  and  cautiously  to  iieai-  tiie  toi*  <»f  the  first  one. 
Here  we  dismount,  and,  picketim:-  our  ponies,  we 
crawl  slowly  and  carefully  to  the  apex.  ViV  tliis 
time  it  is  almost  fully  dayliuht.  We  lemove  our 
hats,  and  i)eer  cautiously  through  the  short,  scatter- 
inii'  grass  on  the  brow  of  the  hill. 

Bo  you  see  anythinu"^ 

No;  notliing  but  prairie  and  grass, 

Noi  Hold  I  What  are  those  small,  gray  objects 
away  off  yonder  to  the  left^  I  thiid\  I  saw  one  of 
them  move.  And  now.  as  the  light  grow.s  stronger, 
I  can  see  white  patches  on  them.  Yes.  they  are 
anteloite.  They  are  busily  feedinir.  and  we  niiiy 
raise  our  heads  slii;htly  and  aet  a  more  fayoral)le 
view.  One.  two.  three — there  are  five  of  them — two 
bucks,  a  doe,  and  two  kids.  And  you  will  observe 
that  they  aie  nearly  in  the  centre  of  a  broad  stretch 
of  table  land. 

"But."  you  say,  'Mnay  W(Mtot  wait  here  a  little 
while  until  they  come  nearer  to  usT" 

« 

Hardly.  You  see  they  are  intent  on  getting  th.^ir 
breakfast.  There  is  a  heavy  fi-ost  on  the  grass, 
Avhich  moistens  it  sufficiently  for  pre.sent  purposes. 


AM)    nTlIKII    HIMINt.    A  I»\  KNi  I   Kl>. 


lo: 


aii'l  it  niuv  l>e  an  lioiii-  oi-  iimir  licfdif  tlirv  will  start 

«  * 

for  water.  It  won't  pay  iis  to  wait  ><»  loiiu,  I'oi-  we 
sliall  most  ]ik('|\  tiiid  others  within  thai  time  that 
we  <'an  ,uet  within  ran.ue  of  without  waitiiii:-  lor  them. 
80  yon  m:iy  as  well  try  them  I'rom  here. 

Xow  voui"  exiterience  al  the  hutts  mav  serve  von 
a  uood  tnrn.  After  takinu'  a  careful  look  over  the 
^Tound.  you  estimate  the  distance  at  ."^.')0  yards,  and 
settinir  111)  your  Beacli  front  and  Lvnian  rear  sights, 
vou  make  the  necessarv  elevation.  There  is  ;i  lnjsk 
wind  blowinu' from  the  riii'ht.  an<l  you  think  it  nec- 
essarv to  hold  oil'  about  tlirep  U'cl.  We  are  now 
])otli  lyinu'  })rone  upon  the  iir<)und.  Y  mi  face  tiie 
irame.  and  su}»port  your  ritle  at  your  shoulder  by 
restinu'  your  elbows  on  the  uround.  The  >nn  is  now 
.shininu' briiihtlv.  and  vou  take  careful  aim  at  that 

I  V  I.  ft 

old  buck  that  stands  out  theic  at  the  left.  At  the 
report  of  your  ritle  a  cloud  <»f  dust  rises  from  a  jtoint 
about  a  hundred  yards  this  side  of  him.  an<l  a  little 
to  the  left,  showinu'  that  you  ha\e  underestimated 
both  the  distance  and  the  foic*'  of  tlie  wind — things 
that  even  an  old  huntei'  is  liable  to  do  occasionally. 
AVe  l)oth  lie  <'lose.  and  the  anima's  havt^  not  yet 
seen  lis.  Tiiey  make  a  few  jum})s.  and  stop  all  in  a 
l)nn<'li.  The  <'ross-wind  and  htiiu'  <lisianc<'  prevent 
them  from  knowin<i'  to  a  <'ertainty  whrre  the  re])ort 
<'ome-;  from,  and  they  don't  like  to  run  just  yet.  lest 
thev  mav  run  toward  the  daniivr  instead  of  awav 
from  it.  You  make  another  half-jioint  of  elevation, 
hold  a  little  farther  away  to  the  liuht.  and  try  them 
aLTiUii.  This  time  the  dirt  rises  abont  twenty  feet 
beyond  them,  and  thev  lump  in  evt'rv  diicctie'i. 
That  was  certainlv  a  ( lose  call,   and  the  l)ullet  evi- 


i  I 


IDS 


CKl.'ISIXGS   I.\   THE   CASi  ADKS 


(lently  wliisth'd  iinconirortjibly  close  to  several  of 
tiieiii.  They  iii'c  iiow  thoroiiniily  IVinhteiied.  You 
insert  anolln'i' ('arti'i(l<Ae,  hurriedly  draw  a  bead  on 
the  lar,u>*st  buck  a.u'ain,  and  tire.  You  break  dirt 
just  l)eyond  him,  and  wc  can't  tell  for  the  life  of  us 
how  or  on  which  side  of  him  your  bullet  passed.  It 
is  a.stonishin<j;  liow  iuu<'h  Aaeant  space  there  is  round 
an  antelftpt',  anyway.  This  time  they  go,  sure. 
They  have  located  the  piilf  of  smoke,  and  ai'e  gone 
with  the  speed  of  the  wind  away  to  the  west.  P)Ut 
don't  l)e  discouraged,  my  friend.  Y'ou  did  some 
clever  shooting,  some  vera  clever  shooting,  and  a 
little  practir'e  of  that  kind  will  enable  you  to  score 
before  night. 

AVe  go  l)ack  to  our  horses,  mount,  and  gallop 
awa  v  again  acro-^s  the  tabledand.  A  ride  of  anotlier 
mile  l)ringsus  to  the  northern  margin  of  this  plateau, 
an(  1 1< )  a  nnjre  broken  country.  Here  we  dismount  and 
jDicket  our  horses  again.  AVe  ascend  a  high  butte, 
and  from  the  top  of  it  we  can  see  three  more  antelope 
about  a  ndle  to  th«^  north  of  us;  but  this  time  they 
are  in  a  hilly,  broken  country,  and  the  wind  is  com- 
ini"'  dircctlv  from  them  to  us.  We  shall  be  able  to 
U'et  a  shot  at  them  at  short  range.  So  we  cautiouslv 
l)ack  down  out  of  sight,  and  then  begins  the  tedious 
process  of  stalking  tliem.  AVe  walk  briskly  tdong 
around  the  foot  of  a  hill  for  a  (piarter  of  a  mile,  to 
wherr  it  mtdves  a  turn  that  would  carry  us  too  far 
out  of  our  course.  We  must  cross  this  hill,  and 
after  lof)king  carefully  at  the  sh  pe  and  location  of 
it,  we  at  last  lind  a  low  i)oint  in  it  where  bv  Ivini-- 
tiat  down  we  can  crawl  over  it  without  rev»nding our- 
selves to  the  game.     It  is  a  most  tedious  and  painful 


AND    orilKi:    IHNI'INCJ    A  DV  KNIT  UK 


VM 


pif(v  of  work,  foi'  tht^  umuiid  is  iilnM)st  rovcrpdwith 
ciicttis  Mild  sli:ii[>  iliiity  rocks,  and  oiu*  liands  jind 
kupcs  ai'e  terri^lv  huvratcd.  But  everv  rose  lias  its 
tlioin,  and  iicai-ly  pyhit  kind  of  sport  has  sonirtlilnu- 
uni)l('asant  ('onn«'.'t<'d  with  it  occasionally;  and  our 


r 


f 


'^..f'' 


'^.t 


\   I'liKTIJAiT. 


re'»v;u'd,  if  we  ,u"cl  it.  will  In  worth  the  pain  it  costs 
us.  With  such  rctlcci ions  and  couiiucnts,  and  with 
frequent  longing  l(»oks  at  the  game,  we  kill  time  till 
at  last  the  critical  part  of  our  work  is  done,  and  we 


■  I 


n 


i.  'I 


ii 


200 


CUriSI.\(i.s   I\  TlIK  CAS(  ADi:s 


can  arise  and  descend  in  a  conirortable  but  cautious* 
walk  into  another  draw. 

This  we  follow  for  about  two  hundred  yards,  until 
we  think  we  are  as  near  our  quarry  as  we  can 
get.  We  turn  to  the  right,  cautiously  ascend  the 
hill,  remove  our  hats,  and  peer  over,  and  there,  sui'e 
enough,  are  our  antelope  quietly  grazing,  utterly 
oblivious  to  the  danger  that  threatens  them.  They 
have  not  st.'en,  heard,  or  sc(Mited  us,  so  we  lia\<' 
ami)le  time  to  X)hin  an  attack.  You  take  the  stand- 
ing shot  at  the  buck,  and  together  we  will  try  and 
take  care  of  the  two  does  afterward.  At  this  short 
distance  you  don't  care  for  the  peep  and  globe  sights, 
and  wisely  decide  to  use  the  plain  open  ones.  This 
time  you  simply  kneel,  and  then  edge  up  until  you 
can  get  a  good  clear  aim  over  the  apex  of  the  ridge 
in  this  position.  The  l)uck  stands  broadside  to 
you,  and  at  the  crack  of  your  rifle  spiings  into 
the  air,  and  falls  all  in  a  heaj),  pierced  through  the 
heart. 

And  now  for  the  two  does.  They  are  Hying  over 
the  level  stretch  of  prairie  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow, 
and  are  almost  out  of  sure  range  now.  You  turn 
loose  on  that  one  on  the  right,  and  I  will  look  after 
the  one  on  the  left.  Our  ritles  crack  together,  and 
little  clouds  of  dust  rising  just  beyond  tell  us  that, 
though  we  have  both  missed,  we  have  made  close 
calls.  I  i)ut  in  about  three  shots  to  your  one,  owing 
to  my  ritle  being  a  repeater,  while  you  must  load 
yours  at  each  shot.  At  my  fourth  shot  my  left- 
lielder  doubles  uj)  and  goes  down  with  a  broken 
neck;  and  although  vou  have  fairlv  "set  the  ground 
atire" — to  use  a  Western  jihrase  —  around  your 


AND   OlIIKU   IirNTI.\<r    AKV  KNTIKKS. 


•^01 


right-fielder,  you  Iuivh  not  luid  the  good  rortmic 
t)  stop  her,  an  I  shn  is  now  out  of  sight  l):'hiud  a 
h)W  ridge. 

But  you  have  the  better  animal  of  tlip  two,  and 
have  had  sport  enough  lor  tin-  first  morning.  ^^^• 
will  take  the  entriiils  out  of  these  two,  lash  them 
across  our  horses  heliind  our  saddles,  go  to  camp, 
and  rest  through  the  heat  of  the  day;  for  this  J^.-p- 
tembersun  beams  down  with  great  power  in  mid 
day,  even  though  the  nights  jire  cool  and  i'l-osty. 

And  now,  as  we  have  quite  a  long  ride  to  camp, 
and  as  we  are  to  pass  over  a  i-ather  monotonous 
prairie  C(umtry  e«  ronte,  1  will  give  you  a  point  oi- 
two  on  fiagging  antelope,  as  weVide  along,  that  ma  v 
be  useful  to  you  at  some  time.  Fine  sport  may 
fi-equently  be  enjoye  1  in  this  way.  If  yon  c;in  finJl 
a  band  that  have  not  been  hunted  much,  andaiv  ik.i 
familiarwiththe  wiles  of  the  white  man.  you  will  have 
little  trouble  in  decoying  them  withiii  rifie  lanue 
by  displaying  to  them  almost  any  brightly-colored 
object.  They  have  as  much  curiosity  as  a*^  woman, 
and  will  run  into  all  kinds  of  danger  to  investigate 
any  strange  object  they  may  discover.  They  lia\-e 
ham  known  to  follow  an  emigrant  or  freight  wauon. 
with  a  white  cover,  several  miles,  and  the  Indian  (it'teil 
))rings  them  within  reach  of  his  arrow  or  ))iillet 
by  standing  in  ].lain  view  wrap.ped  in  his  red  blanket. 
A  piece  of  bright  tin  or  a  minor  answers  the  same 
l)urpose  on  a  clear  day.  Almost  any  conspicious  oi' 
strangedooking  object  will  attract  them;  but  the 
uiost  convenient  as  .veil  as  the  most  reliable  at  all 
times  is  a  little  briuht-red  fiaff 

v..  ^ 

On  one  occasion  I  was  hunting  in  the  Snowv  Mount- 


'i 


■ 

: 


ii 


I 


II 


•J<  »-i 


(•i:risix<;s  i\  'I'm:  <ascai)Ks 


ains,  ill  Nortlicni  Montana,  witli  S.  K.  Fishel,  the 
^•()v«'i'nni<'nt  scont.  and  HicliardTliomas.  tlie  packri", 
lioin  Fort  Ma<iinni.s.  \Vt>  liad  not  hct-n  sncrcssfiil  in 
lindinu' ,uanie  tlnTc  and  ononrway  l)a('k  totliepost 
ranqu'd  two  days  on  tlu*  li<'ad  of  Flat  Willow  creek, 
near  the  toot  of  the  mountains,  to  hnnt  antelopes. 
As  niuht  ai)i>roa('hed  several  small  bands  of  them 
came  toward  the  cret'k,  but  none  came  within  range 
of  onr  ('[imp  dnring  daylight,  and  we  did  not  go 
after  them  that  night.  l)nt  were  up  and  at  them 
betimes  the  next  morning. 

I  preferred  to  hnnt  .alone,  as  I  always  do  Avhen 
after  big  game,  and  went  out  across  a  level  Hat  to 
some  low  hills  iioith  of  cam}).  When  I  ascended 
the  liist  of  these  I  saw  a  handsome  buck  antelope 
on  the  j)rairie  half  a  mile  away.  1  made  a.  long 
detoMi-  to  get  to  leeward  of  him.  and  meantime  had 
great  dillicnlty  in  keeping  him  from  seeing  me.  15ut 
bv^  carefid  maneiiverinu'  I  linallv  uot  into  a  draw 
below  him,  and  I'onnd  the  wind  blowing  directly 
from  him  to  me.  In  his  neighborhood  were  some 
large,  ragged  volcanic  rocks,  and  getting  in  line 
with  one  of  these  I  started  to  stalk  him.  lie  was 
feeding,  and  as  I  moved  cautiously  forward  I  could 
frecpiently  see  his  nose  or  rump  show  up  at  one  side 
or  the  other  of  the  rcK'k.  I  would  accordingly  glide 
to  right  or  left,  as  necessary,  and  move  on.  Finally, 
I  succeeded  in  reaching  the  rock,  crawled  carefully 
up  to  where  I  could  see  over  it,  and  there,  sure 
enough,  stood  the  handsome  old  fellow  not  more 
than  fifty  yards  away,'  still  c<miplacently  nipping 
the  bunch-grass. 

'•Ah,  mv  tine  laddie."   I  said  to  nivself,    "•  vou'll 


A\n  oiUKK  iiiNrFxc  Aitvi;xTri;F. 


'J(  ►;3 


n»'V('r  know  what  limt  voir."  and  rcstiiiu'  tlif  iiii:7,/Ih 
ol*  lliH  rillc  on  tilt'  lock.  I  took  a  line,  strady  aim  lor 
Ills  ht-art  an<l  tiinit'd  ilic  hiillcr  loose.  TImt*' was  a 
tei'iilic  loar;  tli»*  lead  t<»r«'  iij)  a  <doiid  of  dust  and 
went  s«'reaiiiinii"  away  over  tlu'  liills.  while,  to  my 
litter  astoiiisliment,  the  antelope  went  sailing'  across 
the  prairie  with  the  s))eed  <»!"  a  li'reylioiind.  I  sprani!,' 
to  my  feet,  immiied  lead  after  him  at  a  lively  rate, 
and,  thoiiuh  1  tore  the  uronnd  up  all  around  him, 
never  touched  a  hair.  And  wluit  annoyed  mc  most 
was  that,  owinu'  to  some  ]ieciiliar  coinlition  of  the 
atmospliere,  th«'  smoke  of  each  slujt  hiinu'  in  front  of 
me  lonii'  etiouuh  to  prevent  me  from  seeini;-  just 
wiiere  my  hullets  stiuck,  and,  for  the  life  of  me,  1 
could  not  tell  whether  1  was  shootin<i'  over  or  under 
tliepimel 

I  w>'nt  hack  over  the  hill  to  my  horse,  with  my 
heai't  full  of  disappointment  and  my  maua/.ine  oidy 
half  full  of  cartridii'es.  I  loa(h'<l  uj*,  howevei'. 
mounted,  and,  as  I  rode  away  in  search  of  moie 
•iiime,  I  could  occasionally  hear  the  jilmost  whis- 
pered *' pidl",  i)ulf "  of  Fishel's  and  Thomas's  riHes 
away  to  tiie  south  and  west,  which  brou.uht  me  the 
cheerinu-  assurance  that  they  weie  also  liavinu'  fun, 
and  also  assured  me  that  we  should  not  be  without 
meat  for  sui)iter  and  breakfast. 

I  socm  sighted  a  baud  of  about  tliirty  antelopes, 
and  riding  into  a  coulee  dismounted,  picketed  my 
horse,  and  l)euan  another  crawl.  In  due  time  I 
reached  the  (h'sired  "stand."  witliin  al»out  eighty 
yards  of  tiiem.  and,  picking  out  the  linest  buck  in 
the  bunch,  again  took  a  careful,  deliberate  aim  an<l 
tired,     scoring    another    clear    miss.      The    band, 


i'  * 


1 


f  1 

i 


!    > 


»  ./ 


204 


('i;ii-'i:>».>  IN   iiiK  <  A>(  Ain:s 


iiilsi'nd  of  riiiiuiiit'' Jiwiiv.  tiinuvl  mid  ran  dircctlv 
toward  nif.  and,  ♦'iirlini''  sliulitly,  itasst^d  within 
tliiitv  yards  of  me,  drawn  ont  in  sinult*  lilr.  Jt  was 
a  <i<>lden  opportunity  and  1  felt  sure  I  should  kill 
hair  a  dozen  of  them  at  least;  hut,  alas!  for  Hej'tini; 
liopes.  I  knew  not  the  frailty  of  the  sui)port  on 
which  I  built  my  expectations.  1  fanned  them  as  loni;' 
as  there  was  a  caitiidue  in  my  nia^uazine,  and  had 
to  endure  the  intense  chagrin  of  seeing  the  last  one 
of  them  go  over  a  ridge  a  mile  away  sale  and 
sound.  "  ' 

I  was  dumb.  If  there  had  been  anyone  there  to 
talk  to,  I  don't  think  I  could  have  found  a  word  in 
the  language  to  express  my  feelings.  As  before,  the 
smoke  prevented  me  from  seeing  just  where  my  l^ul- 
lets  struck  the  ground,  but  I  i'elt  sure  they  must  be 
striking  veiy  close  to  the  game.  I  sat  down,  pon- 
dered, and  examined  my  ritie.  I  could  see  nothing- 
wrong  with  it,  and  felt  sure  it  must  be  perfect,  for 
within  the  past  week  I  had  killed  a  deer  with  it  at 
170  yards  and  had  shaved  the  heads  oft'  ti  dozen 
grouse  at  short  range.  I  was,  therefore,  forced  to 
the  conclusion  that  I  had  merely  failed  to  exercise 
proper  care  in  holding.;  I  retuined  to  my  horse, 
mounted,  and  once  more'set  out  in  search  of  game, 
deternnned  to  kill  the  next  animal  I  shot  at  or 
leave  the  country. 

I  rode  away  to  the  west  about  two  miles,  and 
from  the  top  of  a  high  hill  saw  another  band  of  forty 
or  fifty  antelopes  on  a  table-land.  I  rode  around 
till  I  got  within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  them, 
when  I  left  my  horse  under  cover  of  a  hill  and  again 
began  to  sneak  on  the  unsuspecting  little  creatures. 


AN'i>  <»Tiii;i;  iirN'iiN<i  ai>vk.\ti'i:i> 


•iiC) 


TIk'v  wtMt'  lU'jir  iIh'  »'(Iu»'  of  tli»'  tJihh',  niul  I'loin  just 
l)fy()U<l  tlu'iii  tilt'  rornijition  l"»'ll  jilMuptly  jiway  into 
tilt' valh'V  soiiiH  liftv  iV'»'t.  I  crawird  up  this  l)liill' 
until  witiiiii  alxmt  I'oity  yards  of  tlie'  iu*ar<'st  ante- 
l(»li«\  and  tli»'ii,  lyinii'  Hat  ujion  the  juioiind,  I  placfd 
my  litlt'  in  jxisition  lor  lirin.u-.  and.  inrli  ])y  inch, 
rdurd  up  over  the  apex  ol'  the  hlnfV  until  within 
fair  view  oi'  the  ^anie.  .Vua in  -  selecting  the  best 
buck — for  1  wanted  a  good  head  for  mounting — I 
drew  down  (»n  his  Itrown  side  until  I  felt  sure  that 
if  there  had  been  a  silver  dollar  hung  on  it  I  could 
have  driven  it  through  him.  Conlidently  ex])ecting 
to  see  1dm  dro])  in  his  tracks,  I  touched  the  trigger. 
])Ut,  alas  1  I  was  doomed  to  still  fuither  disgrace. 
When  the  smoke  lifted,  my  coveted  prize  was  speed- 
ing away  with  the  rest  of  the  herd. 

1  simi)ly  stood,  with  my  lower  jaw  hangin.u  down, 
and  looked  after  them  till  they  were  out  of  sight. 
Then  1  went  and  got  my  horse  and  went  to  camp. 
Sam  and  Dick  were  there  with  the  saddles  of  three 
antelol»es.  When  I  told  them  what  I  had  been 
doing,  they  tried  to  ,.)nsole  me.  but  I  woiddn't  ))e 
consoled.  After  dinn«'r,  Sam  picked  up  my  ritie 
and  looked  it  over  carefully. 

••  Why,  look  her(^  you  blooming  idiot,"  said  he. 
'•No  wonder  vou  coiddn't  kill  at  short  range  The 
wedge  has  slipped  up  under  your  rear  sight  two 
notches.  She's  elevated  for  8.j()  yards,  and  at  that 
rate  would  shoot  about  a  foot  high  at  a  hundred 
yards."  I  looked  and  found  it  even  so.  Then  I 
offered  him  and  l)ick  a  dollar  each  if  they  would 
kick  me,  but  they  wouldn't. 

Sam  said  good-naturedlv:    "("ome,  go   with  me 


!i 


i 


I 


*2(i() 


Cl!ri8I.N«iS    IN    Till-:  TAX  AlUvS 


Jiiid  ti't't  the  ln';i<l  <>r  tlirltiick  I  killed.  It's  ii  v»'i'y 
liaiidsoiiH'  oMc.  Mini   only  two  miles  I'loiii  ciiiiip." 

I  .said  I  didii"!  want  any  heads  for  my  own  use 
unless  I  could  kill  tlieii-  owneis  myself,  hut  would 
take  this  one  home  for  a  fiieud.  so  we  sa<ldled  <»ur 
ii(»rses  and  stalled. 

As  we  reached  the  top  of  a  hill  about  a  mile  from 
camp  a  iaruc  buck  that  was  ^razinu'  ahead  of  us 
jump:'d  and  ran  away  to  what  lie  seemed  t()  consider 
a  safe  distance,  and  sto|>pe<l  to  htok  at  us.  Sam 
.li'enerously  oll'ered  me  the  shot,  and  spriiiuing  out 
of  my  saddle  I  threw  down  my  rille,  to(»k  careful 
aim  and  lired.  At  the  crack  the  buck  turned  just 
half  way  r(jund.  but  was  unable  to  make  a  sinule 
jump  and  sank  dead  in  his  tracks. 

Sam  is  ordinarily  a  (juiet  man,  but  lie  fairly 
shouted  at  the  result  of  my  shot.  1  i)ace(l  the  dis- 
tani'e  carefully  to  where  the  carcass  lav,  Jiiid  it  was 
exactly 'ilM) steps  The  buck  was  standiui'- broadside 
tome  ;md  I  liad  .shot  him  throu,i;h  the  heart.  Of 
course,  it  was  a  .scratch.  1  could  not  do  it  a;iain  ])er- 
haps  in  twenty  .shots,  and  yet  when  I  considered  that 
I  shot  for  one  sinnie  animal  and  ^ot  him  I  could  not 
help  I'eeliuii' a  little  lU'oud  of  it.  As  we  approached 
the  animal,  not  knowing  just  where  I  had  hit  him, 
I  held  my  ritle  in  readiness,  but  Sam  said: 

"Oh,  you  needn't  be  afraid  of  his  g-etting  u}). 
One  of  those  Winchester  exi)ress  l)ullets  is  all  an 
antelope  need.s,  no  matter  what  part  of  the  body  you 
hit  him  in," 

This  old  fellow  had  a  line  head,  and  we  took  it 
oft',  and  now  as  I  write  it  gazes  down  npon  nie  with 
those  htrge,  lustrous  black  eyes,  from  its  place  on 


.\\i>  MTFiii;  Frr.Mrx).  .\i>\i:.\ri  i:i;s. 


•i<>7 


tli<'  Willi,  MS  |>i'(»ii(|ly  iiikI  ciiiioiisly  as  it  did  iln'if  on 
the  pr.'iirir  u  hell  j  Idckcdatit  tliroiiiili  th..  ,siu|,|s  ,,r 
my  Winchester.  His  poinjut  adorns  j.mv"  IK'J  oI' 
this  l)(M»k,  and  flioniili  lli.'  arti>i  lia>  tivjiicd  it  w  iili  a 
mastei-'s  hand,  il  dors  not  [)o.ssess  tlif  lordly  Iwam- 
iim'.  the  fa^einatiny  ,<i-race,  ihr  timid  In-auty  that 
distinunished  the  li\in,u'  animal. 

it  was  so  late  when  \»e  yot  this  one  divssed  that 
Ave  decided  to  retnrn  to  canq)  at  once. 

The  curiosity  which  isso  prominrnt  a  r.'atuie  in  t  h.. 
antt'|o|,«.'s  natnre  costs  many  a  on»'  of  th.-m  his  lilV, 
and  is  taken  advaiita.uv  of  hy  tiie  hnnt.'r  in  vari<»us 
ways.  Wlu'ii  we  i-eached  ramp  that  al't.'rnoc.n  Dick 
told  lis  how  he  had  taken  advanta.ue  oj'  it.  11.'  had 
seen  Ji  small  hand  on  a  level  stretch  of  piaiiir  where 
there  was  no  possible  way  of  uetiin.u'  within  ran.ue 
of  them,  andhavin.u'  heard  that  if  a  man  wonid  lie 
down  on  his  hack,  elevate  his  feet  as  hi,i;'h  us  i)os- 
sihle.  and  swiiio- tlK'in  back  and  lorlh  thronuli  the 
ail-,  that  it  wonId  attract  antelopes,  decided  to  try 
it.  ]5nt  the  ant. 'lopes  of  this  section  had  evid.'ntly 
nevei-  seen  soaj*  boxes  or  bales  of  hay  lloatin.u' 
throngh  the  air,  and  liad  no  desire  to  cnltivate  a 
clo.sei-  acipiaintance  with  such  fright fnl  lookinu' 
objects  as  he  exhibited  to  their  astonished  oaze. 
And  Dick  sai<l  that  when  he  turned  to  .see  if  they 
had  yet  come  within  shooting-  distance  they  w.-re 
about  a  mile  away,  and  juduinu-  from  the  cloud  of 
dust  they  were  leaving  behind  them  seemed  to  be 
running  a  race  to  see  wliich  could  get  out  of  the 
country  first. 

The  next  morning  Sam  Jind  T  went  togetlier  and 
Dick  iilone  in  another  direction.     During  tlie  fore- 


I 


>f 


3 


2(lS 


C  KllSlNGS    IX    THE   CASCADI^ 


iioou  I  Nliot  :i  l>iu'k  tlu'()ii,uh  both  fore  legs,  cut  ting- 
out'  oif  cle:!!!  aud  ]>;ir;ilyziug  the  other.  Sam  said 
not  to  shoot  hiui  iigaiu  and  lie  would  catch  liiui.  and 
putting  spurs  to  his  liorse  was  soongaUoping  akmg- 
side  of  tlieipiarry.  11  M-aught  liini  l)y  one  liorn  and 
held  him  until  I  <'anu*  uj).  Tlit'  little  fellow  ])ranced 
wildly  al)out,  ;ind  l)leat«^d  pitit'idly.  but  a  stroke  of 
the  hunting  knife  across  his  throat  soon  relieved  his 
sutfering. 

We  then  got  the  head  from  the  l)uck  Sam  had 
killed  the  day  before,  and  returned  to  camp  about 
11  o'clock  a.  m. 

In  the  afternoon  we  rode  out  together  again,  and 
had  not  gone  fai'  when  we  stiw  iiv^'  of  the  bright  little 
animals  we  were  huntinu".  on  a  hill-side.  Thev  were 
too  far  awav  for  anvthinu'  like  a  sure  shot,  but  were 
in  su<'h  a  position  that  we  coidd  get  no  nearer  to 
them.  'They  stood  looking  at  ns.  and  Sam  told  me 
to  try  them.  1  had  little  hope  of  making  a  hit,  but 
dismounting  took  a  shot  olf  hand,  holding  for  the 
shoulder  of  a  good  sized  bnck.  When  the  gun 
cracked  there  was  a  <-ircus.  Iliad  missed  mv  aim 
so  far  as  to  cut  both  his  hind  legs  off  just  below  the 
knee.  The  l)uck  commenced  ))ucking.  First  he 
stood  on  his  fore  fee't,  got  his  hind  legs  up  in  the  air 
and  shook  the  stumps.  Then  he  tried  to  stand  on 
them  and  ])aw  the  air  with  his  foi'e  feet,  but  lost  his 
balance  and  fell  over  backward,  lie  got  up.  Jumped 
first  to  one  side,  then  to  the  other,  then  foi'ward. 
Meantime  Sam  rode  toward  him.  and  he  tried  to  run. 
In  this  his  motions  were  more  like  those  of  a  rock- 
ing liorse  than  of  a  living  animal.  The  race  was  a 
short  one.     Sam  soon  rode  up  to  him,  caught  him 


>-k 


AXD    i,niKll   IirXTIXo    ADVKXTI-UKS.  O()0 

by  a  horn  nnrl  held  him  till  I  came  up  ami  rut  the 
little  lellow  s  tiiroat.  Tli.^n  Sam  said  that  was  a 
very  h,ii,u-  «hot.  and  he  would  like  to  know  jest  MJiat 
the  distance  was.  He  went  hack  to  where  I  stood 
when  T  sliot,  stepprnl  rhp  distance  to  wlun-e  the 
antelope  stood,  and  found  ir  to  Ix^  m-)  paces 

We  rode  on  a  mile  further  a.id  saw  a  voumr  ante- 
lope lying  down  in  some  tall  rve-urass  "    We  could 
just  see  his  horns  and  ears,  and  though  he  appeaivd 
to  ])e  looking-  at   u.s   he  seemed   to  think   himself 
securely  hidden,  I'or  he  made  no  movement  toward 
getting  up.     I  told  Sam  to  shoot  this  time,  i)ut  he 
.said,   ';^o,   you  shoot.     I  live  in  this  country  and 
<-an  get  all  the  shooting  I  want  any  time.     You' have 
(•ome  a  long  way  out  here  to  have  some  fun      Turn 
loose  on  him."     And   slipping  olF  my  horse  I  knelt 
down  to  get  a  knee  rest,  hut  found  ihat  from  that 
position  I  could  not  see  the  game  at  all,  and  was 
compelled  to  shoot  off  hand  again.     Kaisin.-  up  J 
drew  a  bead  on  one  of  the  horns,  and  then  h.ueri^nu- 
the  muzzle  to  where  I  thought  the  body  should  he 
pressed  the  trigger.     There  was  a  lively  commotion 
m  the  grass,  but  the  buck  never  got  ou't  of  his  bed 
Uie  ball  went  in  at  one  shoulder  and  out  at  the 
opposite  hip.     On  stepping  the  dista.nce  we  found  it 
to  l)e  only  125  yards. 

And  now,  having  in  a  measure  wiped  out  the  dis 
grace  of  the  previous  day's  work  and  secured  all  the 
meat,  skins,  and  heads  that   our  pack-mules  could 
carry,  we  returned  to  camp  and  the  next  chiy  ^veiit 
l)ack  to  Fort  .Alaginnis. 

These  bright  little  creatures,    though  naturally 
timid,  som^etimes  show  great  courage  in  defense  o'f 


HI 


I 

111 


i; 


li  i    ( 


' 


210 


OUUISIXOS    IX   THE   CASCADES 


tlieir  vouiiii'.  I  once  saw  a  covote  sneak  from  behind 
a  liill  toward  a  lierdorantelo})e.  Instantly  there  was 
a  grand  iiish  of  all  the  adult  members  ol' the  hand, 
male  and  female,  toward  the  intruder,  and  when 
they  had  gotten  in  front  of  the  kids  they  stopped, 
with  bristles  erect,  ears  thrown  forward,  and  iieads 
lowered,  i)resenting  a  most  warlike  an<l  1)elligerent 
appearance.  The  coyote,  when  he  saw  himself  con- 
fronted with  this  solid  [thalanx.  suddenly  sto])ped, 
eyed  hi.>  opponents  for  a  few  moments,  and  then, 
ai)parently  overawed  at  the  sn^teriority  of  nnmbei-s 
and  warlike  [Jttitnde  of  his  intended  prey,  sluidv 
relnctantl}'  away  in  seai'ch  of  some  weaker  victim. 
When  he  was  Avell  out  of  sight,  the  older  mend>ers 
of  the  band  turned  to  tlu'ir  young,  caressed  them, 
and  resumed  their  grazing. 

The  speed  of  the  antelope  is  pr  bably  not  excelled 
hv  that  ol  anv  other  aiiinud  in  this  country,  Avild 
or  domestic,  except  the  greyhound,  and.  in  fact,  it 
is  only  the  iinest  and  iieetest  of  these  that  can  pnll 
down  an  antelope  in  a  fair  race. 

In  the  little  village  of  Gartield.  Kansas,  there 
lived  a  man  some  jears  ago— the  proi>ri»4or  of  a 
hotel — who  had  two  pet  antelopes.  The  village 
dogs  had  several  times  chased  them,  but  had  always 
been  distanced.  One  diiy  a  Mexican  canie  to  town 
who  had  with  him  two  larfre,  handsome  u:revhounds. 
Immediately  on  riding  up  to  the  hotel  he  saw  the 
anteloi)es  in  the  yard,  and  told  the  proprietor  gruffly 
that  he  had  better  put  ''them  critters''  in  the  corral, 
or  his  <logs  would  kill  them.  The  propiietor  said 
he  guesst^d  the  "critters'"  were  able  to  take  care 
of  themselves,  especially  if  the  dogs  did  not  spring 


AM)    OTlIKi;    in\TIX<;    ADV  KXir  KKS.  O]] 

upon  thoMi  unau-aivs.     This  arn„.<.,l  tlu-  Mexican's 

r  ur  his  ,l(.o..s  svnnhl  pull  (lown  one  or  both  of 
til.'  antelopes  within  a  mile.  The  diallenge  was 
:H-<rpfe(l,  the  stakes  ,leposiie,l,  the  antelopes  turm, I 
into  the  street,   and  the   ^^reasei-  told  his  dogs 

i<>       take    Pill.  o 

Til,.  ,l„o..s  .,„„„o-  nr  th,.  auiHlopr..,.  hut  tho  latter 

sn^'t.     Jl„.y   started  olf  ,l„u„    ,|„.  Hver      For -i 

-a,,.,,.,  and  as  level  as  a  11,.„r.  As  the  ,„.artett" 
H»-'l  <ner  this  ,i.ran,l  i.afMral  ri,ee..-„„rse,  the  (vh„le 
I'-l-ulaee  „!•  the  ,ou-„  t»r„e,l  „„t  e„  «„.,..;  to  see  the 

jiee.     Men   and  h„ys  shouted,    ami   ladies   waved 
•h;  handkerelnels.     ]Vtti„g  was  rife,  the  native 

■  ■■imutw„t„one  „n  the  an,elo,,es.  the  Mexican 
.M  <1  the  lew  other  stranj^ers  in  t.nvn  heiny-  easer 
takers.  It  was  nij,  and  tnek,  neither  anin.a'ls  oai„. 
i«g  nor  los.ns  pereejitihly.  and  when  at  last  the  lonr 
"■ent  round  a  hend  i„  the  river  four  ndles  awav,  and 

ereh,,ldenh,-ai,h,,r,  ,heoan,ewas,asnearlva' 
ould   he  seen   hy  the  ai,l  of  .„od  (ield-o-lasses.  'just 
.  >™    the  san,e  distance  ahead  of  the  dogs  as  when 
tliey  leit  town. 

^Sonie  lionrs  later  the  do,n:s  returned,  so  tired  they 
coiid  seaivelywalk.  The  Mexi<-an  eagerlv  looked 
fo,  Imir  on  their  teeth,  and  althongh  he  <.o'nhl  li„d 
none  was  eonli.lent  that  his  do.us  had  kilh-d  the 
antelopes.  A  mounted  expeditir.n  to  search  for  the 
camisses  and  settle  the  question  was  agreed  upon, 
b^  as  1  ^yas  too  near  night  t<.  start  when  the  dogs 
letumed,  it  was  arranged  to  go  in  the  morning     But 


'I 


i;  I 


;!  i; 


J   ;*! 


J, 


^21-2 


(•itrrsr.\(is  t\  the  cascades. 


wlieii  tln^  parlies  u'ot  iij)  the  next  iiioi'iiinu' 1  hey  found 
the  jiiit<'l(»i)cs  (jiiif'ily  gi'nzing  in  the  h()t(4  yai'd. 
The  Mexican  leJr  town  in  disgust  followed  by  liis 
hune,  sore-footed  dogs,  and  muttering  that  he 
"never  seed  no  varmints  run  like  them  things  did.'' 

The  antelope,  one  of  the  brightest  and  most  grace- 
ful and  beautiful  of  all  our  Western  game  animals, 
is  fast  disap})earing  from  our  ])road  phuns,  owing  to 
the  ceaseless  shumliter  of  it  that  is  carried  on  by 
''skin  hunters."  Indians,  "  foreign  noblemen/'  and 
othei's  who  ccmie  to  this  countrj"  year  after  year  and 
spend  the  entire  sununer  in  hunting.  Hundreds 
of  them  are  killed  every  summer  by  this  latter  class, 
and  left  to  rot  wliere  they  fall,  not  ;i  pound  of  meat, 
a  skin,  or  even  a  head  l)eing  taken  from  them.  I 
have  seen  with  mv  own  eves  this  l)utclierv  carried 
on  for  years  past,  and  know  whereof  I  speak. 

Nearly  all  the  Territories  have  stringent  laws 
intended  to  prohibit  this  class  of  slaughter,  but  in 
these  sparsely  settled  counti'ies  the  provisions  for 
enforcing  them  are  so  meaure  that  these  men  violate 
them  day  after  day  and  year  after  year  with  imini- 
nity.  This  is  one  of  the  instances  in  which  prohi- 
bition does  not  p)rohibii^.  And  what  I  have  said  of 
the  antelope  is  true  of  all  the  large  game  of  the 
great  West.  The  elk,  deer,  mountidn  sheep,  etc., 
are  beinu*  slaughtered  l)y  the  hundreds  evt-ry 
year — tenfold  faster  than  the  natural  increase.  And 
the  time  is  near,  ren/  near,  when  all  these  noble 
si^ecies  will  l)e  extinct.  The  sportsman  or  natural- 
ist who  desires  to  preserve  a  skin  or  head  of  any 
of  them  nnist  procure  it  very  soon  or  he  will  not 
be  able  to  liet  it  at  all. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

S?^!';'"'^   in-^TIX(.   ox   THE  TEXAS   PLaIXS. 

^IlE  "Texas  boom"   was  at  its 
lieight  ill  1870,  and  tlieiv  was 
a  grand  rnsli  of  eniio-i-ant.s  of 
all   nationalities  and  conditions 
of  people  to  the  then  Xew  Eldo- 
rado.     Thousands    of    men    went 
down  there  to  make  money.     lAIany 
of  them  had  not  the  remotest  idea 
how  this  was  to  be  done,  but  from 
the  glowing  .stoiies  atloai   regardincr 
the  resources  of  that  wonderful  coun''- 
.....     try,  they  felt  sure  it  could  be  done  in 
some  way.     The  little  town  of  Fort  AVorth  was  tlien 
on   the  Irontier-that  is,   it  was   one  of  t^/e  most 

^n'  T'  '"'r^  '"'^''^'^  ->nununicat  ".  a^ 

as  the  efore  one  of  the  important  outfitting  p  ,i„ts 

lor  parties  goii.o-   into  the  wilds.     A   <.,,.,"     „•  nv 

were  going  further  west,  <m  all  kinds  of  ;:;^:di;r 
scmie  in  search  of  minerals,  «ome  in  search  of  dt^ 
L.n,K^^^^ 

The  village  consisted  of  a  public  square,  around 
^na  Imnting  on  which  were  a  row  of  cheap    o  e 
story,  P^  and  frame  buildings,  most  of  wh  ch  w^ 
occupied  as  saloons  and    o,,nibling  houses.      Eut 

(213) 


n 


n\ 


"|".::i:Fi'M:iii:i;iiiii 


i!!i||5'"!!i'i^' 


i!i    !••;!:;  iS'l 


^■liill 


, ,„  m'w 


\>r^ 


:l 


(2U) 


AM)  oTiiKi;   lir.\TIN(;   A l»v  i;.\Tn;i;>.  'Jl.") 


there  w.'iv  .'1  few  ivspcctnl)].'  uch.m'.-iI  .stoivs,  li.-ilf  :i 
(loz.'ll  ,S()-call<'(l  hotels,  ,sli,»|,s.  etc.  Tlie  towii  u:is 
full  to  ovelllowiliu'  will)  n>;iliil»lel-s,  lllstlel's.  llimtel's, 
CouIh.vs.  .\Iexic;ili  iniieliel'os,  JloU  li.M'li  siuht-seel's, 
advent  lirel's.   coiillllelcinl  tlllVeleis.  ,.]('. 

•All  (hiyjiiid  1(11  iiiulit  could  1.,'  heni-d  the  call  of 
the  ('njiiju'i'r  at  the  .uainhliu.u-tahle  as  he  aiiuoiiuced 
the  nuiuheis  and  conil)iiialioiis  that  the  wheel  oi- 
rards  ])i'()duced  in  the  course  of  the  iiiauiixilat ions 
to  which  his  deft  linuei-s  suhjected  them. 

Hot  woi'ds  often  came  fioni  foi'tiiiiale  and  nnfoiDi- 
iiate  o-amostefs.  and  theshoit.  shafp  lepon  of  the>ix- 
.shooter.  the  shouts  of  combatants,  the  liroaiis  of 
wonmh'd  or  (lyin,u'  hkmi.  the  c!att<'i'  of  Jieavy  boots 

Ol'  spuis   on    the    feet   of  stamj.e.h'd   specttltors   weiv 

sounds  that,    nearly  every  ni^ht.  iireeted   the  ears 
of  the  [)opnhire. 

Mob  Jaw  rei,i--ned  siipi-enie.  and  tliere  was  little 
eit'ort  on  tli*^  j.art  of  the  villa.ue  aut]ioriti<'s  to  punish 
oheiideis.  Sometijues  .ludii'e  Lynch"  s  ecu  it  was 
convened  on  shoit  notice,  and  someone  who  had 
committed  an  uiiusuall\  lla.uiant  violatioji  of  the 
"law  of  honor""  and  had  killed  a  man  without  due 
provocation,  was  luirriedly  tried  and  strun<i'  up  to 

the  IK'ai'est  tl'ee. 

Oni'evejun-in  the  month  of  Nov.'inbei'.  t  lie  excite- 
ment was  varied  by  the  aiiival  of  a  '•  l)ull-train  "'•• 
of  ten  wa.u'ons  loaded  with  biijfalo  skins.  Th  v 
drove  to  the  waivjiouse  of  the  lariivsi   trad<"i-in  tlie 


*Wlial  is  known  -u  ilic  IVnuiirr  ;i<  ;i  ••  tiullnviin'-  i- ;,  nurnl»  r  of 
ponderous  w;iL;-on--.  diiiwn    l>v  I'roi 


used  for  liiiulinu  lieavv  freiniit 


Iron)   MX  to  ten  yoke  of  oxen   cicli, 
1U.TOS.S  tlic  plains. 


)  5 


•Jir, 


(•i:ri>>IN<iS    I\    TIIK    CASCADES 


pliicf  lo  unload,  and  were  quickly  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  caii'cr  inquirers  who  souglit  Tor  news  from 
tln'  Iroht. 

Some  inquired  as  io  tlic  nature  of  tlie  country, 
some  as  to  the  pro^Tess  of  settlements,  some  as  to 
I'ricnds  wlio  weie  at  the  front,  and  many  as  to  the 
bulfalo  herd  fron;  which  tlie  iive  thousand  skins 
bi'ouuht  in  1)V  tins  train  liad  been  taken. 

••The  main  lierd."  said  tlie  wauon  l)oss,  ''is  two 
hundred  miles  west  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Brazos 
river." 

'•  How  larue  a  lierd  is  itr' 

"Xobod}'  knows  tliat,  for  none  of  'em  lias  took 
time  to  ride  to  the  west  end  of  it." 

••Are  there  many  liunters  tliere^"  inqnired  a 
vounu'  St.  Louis  lawyer. 

••Wall,  you'd  reidvon."  said  the  boss.  '"Tlia's 
"bout  a  hundred  and  Jiftv  white  liunters.  and  inore'n 
a  thousand  I'ed-skins."" 

••  When  do  you  start  l^ackT' 

"To-morrow  mornin',  if  1  can  keep  my  bull 
punchers  from  gvttin'  full  of  pizeii." 

The  crowd  uradually  scattered,  Avhile  a  little  knot 
of  the  more  respectal)]e  element  repaired  to  the  hotel 
to  discuss  the  question  of  orii'anizing  a  hunting 
party  to  go  to  the  l)uiralo  ranue.  In  an  hour  thev 
agreed  to  go.  the  time  for  the  start  being  lixed  for 
the  morniug  of  the  second  day  following. 

And  then  the  luisy  notes  of  prei)aration  were 
heard  throughout  the  town.  But  few  of  the  men 
who  decided  to  go  were  prepared  for  such  a  trip, 
and  it  Avas  necessary  for  most  of  them  to  l>uy  -a*  hire 
complete  outfits.     Horses  were  the  lirst  and  most 


■■,-,  i 


A\l»   OTIIKK    nc.\TIX(;    ADV  K.NTC  lIKs.  OJ? 

important  miuisite.       The  rorral  (tlie  frontier  liverv 
.stable)  was  lirst  visited,  and  spirited  hiddin-  wan 
mdiilovd  in    for  the   ehoieest   animals.     Tlie   stoelv 
here  was  soon  exliansted,  and  th,'  demand  was  n(,t 
yet  supp.lied.     Then  all  the  horses  ami  p(,nies  stand- 
ing- tied  to  the   railin-  ;,ronnd    the  pul.lie   S(inare 
were  inspected,   and   any  that   were  lor  sale   were 
tested.     \\  ord  living  been  circulated  that  a  huntin<- 
party  was  ontlittin-  a  lai-e  number  of  ponies  were 
brought  in  from  neiohborini.-  cnini.s  and  ranches 
Ihe  i)arty  was  soon  creditably  mounted,  thou^di  the 
number   had    increased    to   double   that   oridnallv 
luanned. 

Xext,  teams  must  be  employed.  A  number  of 
these  were  also  found,  and  live  were  enirauvd  their 
ownei-s  agreeing  to  work  for  seven  d,;ilars  a  dav 
"and  found." 

Guns  and  ammunition  were  also  in  demand,  and 
enough  were  offered  to  arm  a  regiment.     A  number 
ot  hunters  had  recently  come  in  from  the  front  and 
Avere  selling  off  their  outfits.     Every  store  and  hotel 
had  from  one  to  half  a  dozen  guns  in  pawn,  and  one 
dealer  liad  a  number  of  new  ones.     Anything  in  the 
shape  of  a  rille  could  ))e  had.     Old  Kentucky  nu.zzle- 
loaders,  -five  feet  hmg  in  the  barrel;"  amdemned 
army  carbines  of  Spencer,  Sharps,  and  other  pat- 
terns; Springfield  muskets;  Henry  and  AVinchester 
rifles;  and  a  few  of  the  old  reliable  Sharps  -l,uffalo 
guns      ot  4r,  and  50  calibre,    and  using  loo  to  VH) 
grains  of  powder.     These  latter  were  taken  at  good 
hgures  by  the  more  knowing  ones,  and  the  best  of 
the  others  selected  by  the  less  inteUigent  buyers 
until  all  were  fairly  well  armed 


:!iiil 


I  III 
1  III 


I 


•J  IS 


«i;ri>i.\<.>   IN    iiii;  cvx  .\i>i:s 


Tlit'ii  ;i  liuidc  wiis  iKM'dcd.  niid  ;i  Cliicjiu'o  iu'ws- 
JCIltt'i'  ('()ir('s|)()ii(lt'|it.  w  ho  WIIS  lo  he  ;i  liicinht'r  of 
tilt'  cx'pcdirioii.  was  dcpiilcd  lo  »'in[tl(>y  <»ii<'.  As 
iisuni  ill  J'roiitii'r  towns,  tlirrr  wt-ic  plenty  of  lliciii, 
cacli  oiii'of  wlioiii.  ill  his  own  fstiiiiatioii.  was  the  best 
ill  the  whole  coiiiitrv.  Kacli  (•laiiii('<l  to  know  cvcrv 
loot  <»r  t he  .uToiiiul  ill  tpn'stion.  to  !)♦'  ahlc  to  speak 
the  laiiuuaue  of  every  Iiidiaii  trihe  on  the  front iei\ 
to  l>e  a  crack  shot  aiitl  iiitrei»id  horseman,  afraid  of 
notliinii\  and  ready  for  any  undertakiiiii".  ii<»  matter 
how  hazardous. 

Iiupiiry  aiiioiiu-  the  more  reliable  citizens  of  the 
tow  11  as  to  w  ho  was  best  suited  for  the  uses  of  the 
})resent  enterprise  I'esiilted  in  the  choice  of  a  rather 
(iiiiei  and  attractivedookinii'  voiim;'  man  bearinu'  the 
euphonious  i>send(»nyiii  of  "Red  River  Frank."  lie 
was  clad  in  the  conventional  buckskin  suit,  and  his 
loiiu' lilossv  ])lack  hair  bunu'  in  heavy  curls  down  to 

(         <  »  >  a. 

]iis  shoulders.  He  was  six  feet  two  inches  in  height , 
straii;ht  as  an  arrow,  and  liad  a  i\*H^i),  clear  liray  eye; 
rode  a  uood  size<l  spirited  niiistaii.u',  and  sat  in  his 
saddle  like  a  life-trained  trooper. 

At  the  tiiiK^  ai»poiiite(l  for  the  departure,  tlie 
l)a)'ty.  which  had  now  swelled  to  thirty-two  men  all 
told,  assembled  in  the  piil)lic  s(piare.  'IMie  wauons 
wer<'  loaded  with  the  tents.  l)e(hlin,u'.  food,  and  other 
necessary  jirovisioiis  for  the  trip,  whicli.  it  was 
arranued.  should  occu))y  about  six  weeks.  At  ten 
o'clock  the  l>arty  lode  out  of  town  on  the  load 
leadinu'  west,  taking'  witli  them  the  hearty  good 
wishes  of  the  assembled  throng.  Tiiey  crossed  a 
narrow  belt  of  timber  and  emerged  upon  a  sti'etcli  of 
gently  undulating  piairie,  which  was  densely  cov- 


Axij  ()Tiii;r  hinting  ad\  kntiuks. 


'iUi 


eivd  with  a  Iiixuriaiit.iir(m-Ili  of  ^Taiiiina  -ra.ss,  and 
OUT  which  ilipy  liavrl..,!  ;,t  a  livrlv  w-air  until  al't.T 
smidowii  Ix-foiv  a^uaiu  iv:ichin,u-  tiinlxT  and  wat.-r. 
Th.'ii  tli.'v  camiMMl  on  a  sniai!  civ-k  wli.-iv  r,M,d.' 
fuel,  and  ,uo<)d  uauT  were  abiUKhint.  'Ih..  i.-iiis 
wriv  piicjird,  ,sui»iMT  pivpaivdandeatrn.  and  Mim 
t]i(' party  assciiihl.'d  around  a  Jaruc  cami)  lir.'. 

Tlio  lawyer  a i-os.',  and  iviiucstini;- th.' attention  of 
tlie  men,  said  that,  a^  tliey  were  aoinu'  on  a  loni^' 
journey  into   a  wild    <-(.untry.   wiiidi    wa>^    infested 
with  Jiostile  Indians  and  lawless  wliite  mm,  whei-e 
it  ndn-ht  ))e  necessary  fortius  ])arty  to  (Ud'end  theju- 
selvcs  and  tlieir  i.roperty  l.y  fore,",  of  ;,n,is.  it   was 
thou.ulit    Ix'st    to  effect   a  permanent   and  lunding- 
organization,   winch   would  insui-e   uniiv   of  action 
tiirou-hout  the  trip,  and  ^'specially  in  the  event  of 
iinvNUch  trouble  as  he  had  intimated  mio-ht  aiise. 
IL'    tlierefore   nominated  as  chief  <'x<'cutive  officer 
of_  the  expedition.  Captain  W .    If.    f-auh-rs,  who,  he 
•said,  h;.d  done  good  and  faithful  sei-vice  during  the 
late  war;  who,  since  the  war.   iiad  traveled  exteii- 
.sively  in  the  W.vst.  and   who  was  n,,w  eiiga-ed  in 
cattle  raising  in  fvaiisas.     Several  men  seconded  the 
nomination,  and  Captain   Knders  was  unaiuniouslv 
chosen  by  acclamatioji. 

lie  aros<'  and  thanked  his  friends,  modestly  and 
gracefully,  fortius  mai-k  of  their  esteem  andVonfi- 
denc(s  stating  that  he  had  no  desiiv  to  exercis<^  •  nv 
ar))itrary  or  unnecessary  authority  ovei-  tiiem,  biit 
should  only  order  them  in  so  far  as  safetv' and 
success  in  their  undertaking  seemed  n^^'essaiy.  He 
asked  that  all  who  were  willing  to  stand  bv  him  and 
obey  his    orders  to   this  extent   should    so    pled-'-e 


'I 


i 


-   t 


250 


CKriSl\(iS    FN     rilK   CASCADKS 


tli«'in.s('lv»'s  l)y  lisiiin'  to  tlicir  feet.  'I'lif  eiilirr  juii-fy 
aiosc.  TIh'Ii  tlit'ii'  Ifiidri-  tliiinked  tlu'iu  ii^aiii,  iintl 
tlu'ir  intniinal  dt'lilwiatioii  ended. 

The  (•:ii)t:nii  d«'t;ule(|  four  men  to  net  as  ji  guard 
over  the  cauip  and  stock  during  tlie  niglit,  <'a('h 
•watcliing  two  lionr.s  and  then  calling  np  tiie  one 
wlio  was  to  relieve  him.  and  this  precantion  was 
I'ol lowed  up  throughout  the  e\'i)editiou. 

The  men  weie  tired  fioni  tlieir  long  ride,  and 
sought  the  comfort  of  their  l»lankets  at  an  early 
hour.  As  tlievliad  a  ten  davs'  ionriiev  before  them 
to  reach  the  hult'ah)  range,  itAvas  agreed  that  they 
shonid  .start  early  each  morning,  and  the  camp 
lires  were  thend'ore  ordered  to  l)e  lit  at  r<fnr  o'chjck. 

The;  ioiirnev  was  iineventrni  for  several  da>'s. 
The  road  upon  which  the  paityhad  first  traveled 
bearing  oil'  to  the  southwest,  and  the  course  of  oui' 
party  ])eing  due  west,  they  left  it.  ''lied  River 
Prank''  now  sustained  his  good  I'eputatiou  as  a 
gindt^  by  selecting  with  excellent  skill  and  judg- 
ment the  best  portion  of  the  country  to  travel  in, 
avoiding  the  unmerous  swamps  and  sandy  plains, 
linding  safe  and  easv  fords  across  the  streams,  and 
selecting  good  camp  sites  for  each  night. 

Thev  were  uow  in  a  country  where  deer  and  tur- 
kevs  were  ibundant,  and  tlieir  tables  Avere  bounti- 
fnlly  supplied  with  fresh  meat.  They  camped  on 
the  uight  of  November  12  in  a  clump  of  tall  cotton- 
wood  trees  that  skirted  a  small  creek.  Just  at  dusk 
a  great  rush  of  wings  was  heard  in  the  air,  and, 
looking  in  the  direction  from  whence  the  sound 
came,  a  large  iiock  of  wild  turkeys  was  seen  sailing 
directly  toward  their  camp,   and,  a  moment  later, 


AM>  (»iiii:i:  iii\iiN<i  Ai»vi:Ni'rKi>. 


OOJ 


tln'V  lit  ill  lilt'  iirt's  aiii()!m">t  \\  iiidi  our  ii;irl\-  \\i\h 
('!UinM'(l.  Iiisliuitlv  cVciN  ritlc  was  l)i(»iiulif  I'oi'lli, 
a  lid  iIk'  w  holt '  en  III])  wasaMa/r  w  ii  li  l)iiniliiu'  imwdi'i . 
Tilt' smoke  lloalt'd  iipaiiioiiust  i  la- da/i-d  and  |iaiii('- 
,stri<'lN.('ii  liiids.  who  lliitlrivd  wildly  and  aimlfs>|y 
from  Irt't'  to  tivr.  kiiockiiiu'  tlicir  wiiiu-s  a.uaiiisl  each 
oilier  and  the  (lead  limbs,  and  makinua  m<»st  I'liLiiit- 
I'ul  noise. 

The  liiint<']'s  srntter^'d  and  tonu'iies  of  1l;inie  shot 
U[i  IVoni  e\<'i'y  (inarter.  \'olley  al'ler  volley  was 
iired.  'i'he  I'oai'  of  llie  lilies  inieis[M'rse(l  with  the 
"■thiKV  aial  '•crash*'  of  ralliiiu- Idrds,  the  shouts  of 
the  excited  throiii;',  (lie  neiuliiiiu'  of  teriilicd  hoi-se.s, 
the  baikiii.u"  of  dous,  turned  the  ([iiiet  cam[t  of  a  few 
moments  a.u'o  int(»  a  veritable  pandemonium.  The 
slaugliler  went  on  for,  iierhaps,  twenty  minutes, 
when  the  more  humane  Ix'came  ashamed  of  them- 
selves and  quit.  Finally  they  prevailed  uj)on  their 
friends  to  desist,  and  the  dead  uame  was  iiatliei'ed 
up.  Sixty-thi'ee  of  tliese  iK^ble  birds  had  met  their 
(h^ath,  and  the  survivors  were  allowed  to  sir  quietly 
and  watch  tln^  camp  lires  till  niornin<i',  when  they 
sailed  away  toward  the  east. 

In  the  afternoon  of  that  dav,  Frank  and  the 
journalist  were  ridinu'  in  advance  of  the  column 
across  a  level,  monotonous  stretch  of  country,  where 
there  was  little  to  attract  attention  or  excite  remark. 
Thev  had  al read v  become  warm  friends  and  talked 
contidentiallv  on  many  subjects,  but  Frank  had 
said  nothing'  of  his  i)ast  history,  yet  his  stran.ue 
demeanor  at  times  had  excited  in  the  mind  of 
the  newsi)aper  man  an  anxiety  to  know  what 
had  moved  this  relined,  generous,  scholarly  young 


\ 


I 


,«,.! 


222 


('KriSIX(;S    I\    THE    CASCADES 


iiiiiii  to  jidu[)t  a  life  so  uucivilizecl  as  the  one  he  was 
li  villi;'. 

"Franlv,"  ho  linally  said,  ••  I  have  no  wisli  to 
question  you  on  a  subject  that  you  may  not  wish  to 
si)eal\.  on,  vet  1  liave  observed  manv  tniits  in  vou 
that  are  not  found  in  otliei-  men  of  vour  eallinu-.  1 
am  of  the  oi)inion  tliat  vou  liave  been  bred  in  a  verv 
different  spliere  of  life  from  this  in  which  you  now 
live.  If  you  have  no  objection,  I  shoukl  like  to 
ivuow  what  motive  prompted  you  to  adopt  tUis  wild 
life." 

lie  bit  liis  lip  and  hesitated.  Finally,  aftei*  some 
moments,  he  said: 

'"AVell,  ril  tell  you  liow  it  came  about,  and  I'll 
make  the  story  l)rief.  It  is  similar  to  that  of  many 
another  scout,  in  general,  but  dilferent  in  detail, 
2)erli:ips,  from  any  of  them.  I  was  born  and  bred  in 
an  Eastern  citv,  and  was  beiuu"  ediictiteil  for  the 
ministi'v.  Mv  father  failed  in  business  and  I  was 
compelled  to  leave  school,  lie  unthered  what  little 
was  left  of  his  shattei-ed  fortune,  and  with  his  family 
emigrated  to  the  far  West.  There  he  enuaued  in 
farming  on  what  was  then  the  froi\tier,  but  before 
we  had  ])een  there  six  months  we  v^ere  awkened  one 
morninu"  at  davlight  by  tlie  veils  of  savage  Indians, 
and,  looking  out,  beheld  them  all  around  us.  They 
were  Comanches. 

"  Our  house  was  burned.  M\  father  was  toma- 
hawked  and  scalped  before  our  eyes,  and  my  mother, 
my  sister  (who  was  older  than  I),  and  n)yself  were 
carried  into  captivity.  I  was  fortunate  enough  to 
escape.  I  returned  and  organized  a  [)ursuing  party, 
but   our  efforts   were  fruitless,  and  a   few  months 


AND    OTIIKK    in\T[X(i    A  ;.V  i;\Tr  i;  ,:s.  O'Jli 

later  I  learned  IVoni   a  lu.lf-l.reed   tlint  clentli   had 
i-elieved    tlie    suiTerino.s   ol'  my  motli.T  and   sister, 
lliat  was  tuenly  years  ago.     I  ^vms  fifteen  years  old 
then,  and  from  that  day  to  this  I  Imve  l,e;.n  on  tlie 
trail  ol  that  tril)H.     I  lH>.,stof  nothin-  but  eaeli  vear 
1  feel  better  satislied  with  n.y  work.  "  I  liope  that,  in 
time,  I  may  feel  content  to  return  East  and  .^K-aoe 
in  some  lawful  and  more  eonoenial  i.ur:^uir.*'    "  "^ 
Ai  that  instant  a  deer  bounded  up  out  of  the  tall 
gic.ss  a   hundred   yards  aliea.l   and   went  praneim- 
away  to  tlie  left.     Frank  eau.uht  his  rifle  from  the 
«ling-  at  his  saddle  Ijow  and  sent  a  bullet  throu.-h 
Its  head.  ^ 

Early  tm^  next  morning  tlie  hunters  came  u,H,n 
fresh    bnfhdo    signs,   and  in    the  afternoon  a   few 
stragglers  were  seen.     One  was  killed  in  the  even- 
ing, and  on  the  ereek  where  the>  .^npe^l  that  nii-hr 
tmsli  Indian  camp  signs  were  foumb     A  small  herd 
of  bullalo  came  to  the  creek  to  drink,  a  mile  belou> 
Jiist    alter  sundown,  and   various    facts    indicated 
that  they  were  near  the  main   herd.     All  throu<di 
the  next^day  they  were  in  siglit  of  small  bands,  ami 
several  hunting   parties   were  sighted,   some  white 
ana  some  red.     The  feed  was  getting  scai.v,  owin- 
to  its  having  been  eaten  down  by  the  game,  and  at 
tu-o  o.'lock  the  party  camped  on  Will„u-  <-re(.k    a 
small  tributary  of  th.«  Brazos  river.     The  main  h. 'rd 
was  yet  about  ten  miles  auay,  but  the  hunters  could 

not  consistently  go  any  nea  ler  for  a  permanen  t  camp, 
and  (hM-Med  to  make  It  here.  Tuo  white  hunters 
visited  them  in  the  evening,  ami  told  them  that - 
party  of  ten  Comancli 
creel- 


K's  were    camped    on    TurtL: 


:i 


v  seven  miles  further  west.     At  this  inte 


11 


igence 


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(254) 


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AM)   (»T1I1:k    in'NTl.N*;    ADN  KNirUKS. 


22i 


Frank's  face  durkt'iied  and  his  eye  gleamed,  l)ul  lie 
said  n(^^liing.  Soon  Jiftci'  dark,  lioufvci-.  Iif  was 
missing,  and  did  not  turn  npagain  till  nearnoon  the 
next  day.  He  liad  a  diftVivnt  horse  from  the  one  lie 
rode  jiway;  not  so  good  a  one.  it  is  true,  and  there 
were  two  hullet  holes  in  his  coat.  lie  was  reticent 
and  uncommunicative  as  to  where  he  had  heen,  l)ut 
A\wre  a  very  i>leased  exi)ression  on  his  countenance. 
an<l  was  occasionally  seen  to  smile  when  not  talking 
with  anyone. 

The  majority  of  the  hunters  mounted  and  rode 
southwest  early  in  the  morning.  Seven  men  in  one 
party  siglited  a  herd  of  buffaloes  numheiing  about 
200,  and  dismounting,  when  within  a  mile,  cached 
their  horses  in  a  coulee,  and  began  a  cautious 
advance. 

They  found  a  deep  and  crooked  ravine  into  which 
tiiev  crawled,  and  in  which  thev  weiv  able  to  ap- 
ju-oach  to  within  about  400  yards  of  the  nearest  ani- 
mals. A  gentle  l)reeze  blew  from  the  game  toward 
the  hunters,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  most  favor- 
able point,  they  crawled  up  the  stee[  baidv  to  where 
they  could  command  a  good  view  of  the  giime.  The 
''tenderfeet''  in  the  party  were  in  favor  of  tiring  a 
volley,  but  ar  old  hunter  who  had  led  them 
advised  them  t )  lire  singly,  and  at  intervals  of  a 
minute  oi  r.vo,  this  ])lan  being  nuich  less  likely  to 
frighten  the  game.  lie  cautioned  them  to  take  very 
careful  aim.  to  make  every  shot  count,  and  to  wound 
as  few  animals  as  possible.  One  slightly  wounded 
animal,  lie  said,  would  create  more  uneasiness  among 
the  herd  than  ten  dead  or  fatallv  wounde<l  ones. 

Several  of  this  party  w«^re  good  marksmen,  and 

15 


22t) 


CKrisrN(;s  in  the  cascade^ 


lind  good  str'^'ng-.sliooting,  long-range  ritles. .  Tliongli 
theysliothejivv  cluii'ge.s,  A'et,  the  wind  intlieir  I'uvor, 
at  tliis  long  distance,  the  animals  wonld  scarcely 
hear  the  reports.  The  leader  advised  them  to  shoot 
only  at  animals  broadside,  and  gave  them  careful 
directions  as  to  elevation  and  where  to  aim.  Evans 
(►pened  the  fire  with  a  sixteen-i)ound  HO-calihre 
''''•»>'. s.  Immediately  after  the  report  the  emphatic 
"  l"'  of  the  bullet  came l)ack  and  a  large  cow  was 
seen  fo  drop  on  her  knees,  get  ui-  again,  stagger 
awa}'  a  few  rods  and  li<^  down. 

"Good,"  said  the  old  hunter.  "Xow,  Pete, 
you  go." 

••Fete  fired,  and  an  old  l)ull  whisked  his  tail, 
walked  sullenly  away,  turned  around  a  few  times, 
and  fell  (h'ad.  Another  complimentary  remark  from 
the  old  hunter,  and  then  he  said: 

'•Now  I  guess  ril  try  one." 

He  lired,  but  to  his  great  chagrin  did  just  what  he 
had  cautioned  the  others  not  to  do,  broke  a  fore  leg 
below  tlie  knee.  This  cow  commenced  to  bellow 
and  "buck,""  and  in  an  instant  the  whole  herd  was 
in  commotion. 

•'  Stop  her,  somebody,  stop  her,  or  she' 11  stampede 
the  hull  biznessi"  he  said,  as  he  pushed  another 
bullet  into  his  muzzle  loader.  By  this  time  she  had 
stopped  broadside,  for  a  moment,  at  the  edge  of  the 
herd,  and  the  journalist,  at  the  order  of  the  boss,  drew 
a  bead  on  her.  The  ' '  spat "  of  the  heavy  bullet  told 
of  a  palpable  hit."  She  no  longer  felt  like  running, 
but  was  not  yet  down  and  it  took  two  more  bullets  to 
lay  her  out.  The  next  shot  was  a  clean  miss,  so  far 
as  it  concerned  the  animal  shot  at,  but  it  wounded 


one  somewhere  i„  tlie  l,e,,l      The,,  m 

vw;,(e,.  full  ,j,ee,l.  '"""'  *''•«  «"o>i  l'»t  them 

'J'lie  Imnters  now  niomif,-.^  ,i,  •    i 

«Hting  sport  „n<l  th,.,le-  'i  oJ'h       '*  '"  """""  ^"^ 
Tl'i«  over,  thev  returned  ,     '"'""'"■'■  ^'""■'""-^ 

the  ,sti,n,l.-'    Then        * '?''"""''""''*  '^'"'•'1  "on 
■••sain   „n,l  were  ™.    Z    '"''Tf  ""•"■  *""1  "'■■•'«t« 

;;■'->  the,  heara  ru^'.^'  trrfT-  ^^  •■■■>"'" 
the  west  belieUl  a  .-re^it  l.Inn  'ooluns  toward 

«ncl  rolling  up  acrots  t  ."'^  "."?'"'«■  "'^-S  waving 
great  olou,£  of  cC  vh  r  '"■■■'"■"*'  '"'"  ^"<1'1«'"  l>y 
blown  away  by  t  e  L  ,r'''  "'•'•■    "'^'■''^'"""4 

g.'eat  herd  of  bnffalo     Id  ',"  T',*"''     ^'  "••■•«  "'« 

by  the  Indian  hunt";     Tl  l'"'  ""'""'"  -stampeded 
the  dry  earth  was  like  tl^  In      '  1  *^'  '"""^^  "1'™ 
Tlie  vanguard  of  tlehenl  w        '?''  '"""'  "'""<'-■•• 
a"-.-'y.  but  the  d.-uriTnes   1?;"'"'™'"  *''••'"  ^'  ""'« 
almost  as  faras  the:ye"o;         ''"^f  '°  V^'"'  ""''  left 
?a«-  that  instant  and  pi  •t,:;;:/!"''  -"■  '"">t«-.s 
>»  order  to  save  their  live  'tIv^^      ^n   "'"'^'■'''y 
northward  as  offerin,.  the  s'ho,  tt  ;'  '''l'"™ "y  «bose  the 

byvvhiehtoescapethe„;i?''V''''  ''"■'* ''"•"^""l 
the  .spurs  deep  iJuothirtr;.;::  '";""''  ■^'"'''"^' 
«e"-with  the  velocitvof  „"''"'"'"•  "'ey 

l--f  ;ie.  A  mile  w,  Lve.'-  d  inZ  """''  ''""  '''^^ 
yet  they  were  not  i.ast  t^  i  ,  ^  ^''"'  «eeonds.  and 
olosingln  uponrtti;;,:'  ""''  ^^•'"^"  '^"^  '•■•1'^% 


i  n 


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ll   J 


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(226) 


I 


A.xn   nl'IIKi;    IHNIIXO   ADVK.N  rniKs. 


'22[) 


y. 


Tliev  tiinu'd  tlit'ir  liorses'  lieuds  |);iftlv  in  the 
direct  ioii  the  biilfiilot's  were  going  mid.  iii'ging  liiem 
to  liicii"  iirmost  speed,  liually  passed  the  outer  line 
of  the  lierd  just  as  the  jeach^'s  passed  hy.  Then, 
h;iviiig  I'eached  ;i  place  of  safety,  they  dismounted, 
and  throwing  their  hridle  reins  over  their  iinus  coin- 
nieiiced  to  load  and  lire  into  the  herd  with  all  possi- 
ble r.qtidity,  nearly  eveiy  shot  killing  or  disabling 
an  animal.  It  took  nearly  half  an  hour  for  the  rolling, 
surging,  angi'y  horde  to  pass  the  [loint  where  our 
hunters  stood,  and  as  the  rear  guard  came  in  sigl;r 
there  came  a  new  and  still  more  terrible  scene  in  the 
U'lcat  tra<i(Hlv. 

More  thaira  hundred  Indians  were  in  hot  pursuit 
of  the  savage  beasts.  Thev  were  mounted  on  wild 
and  almost  ungovernable  bronchos,  who  were  fi'oth- 
ingat  the  mouth,  charging  and  cavoiting  amongst 
the  ileeing  game.  The  white  foam  droi»jied  in  Hakes 
and  bublih^s  from  all  i)arts  of  their  bodies.  Their 
nostrils  were  distended,  their  eyes  Hashed  lire,  and 
they  seemed  as  eager  as  tlieir  wild  masteis  to 
deal  death  to  the  bulfahx^s.  The  savage  riders 
seenunl  beside  themselves  with  mad,  ungovernable 
passion. 

Theii' faces  were  paint(^d  in  the  most  glaring  colors, 
their  bright  and  many-colored  blaidvets  tluttei-ed  ill 
the  wind  secured  to  t  he  saddle  only  by  an  end  or  a 
corner,  their  long  black  hair  stre;::ning  back  like  tln^ 
pennant  at  the  mast  head  of  a  ship,  and  their  deep 
black  eyes  gleamed  like  coals  of  file  in  ;>  dungeon. 
Arrow  after  arrow  Hew  from  deep  strung  bows  and 
sunk  to  the  feathered  tip  in  the  (piivering  llesh  of 
the  shagii'V  monsters. 


i 


: 


I 


I 


H: 


r. 


2:30 


CUri.SIXGS  IN  THE  CASCADES  . 


Ponderous  spears  were  liurlecl  with  the  power  and 
l^recision  of  giants  and  struck  down  the  defenceless 
victims  as  a  sturdy  woodman  strikes  down  the  frail 
sapling  in  his  path. 

"Crack!"     "crack!"    came    from    rifles,    and 


a 


ping 


t  "       u 


ping!"   from  carbines  and    revolvers. 


Hundreds  of  shots  were  lired  by  those  who  carried 
firearms,  and  before  these  murderous  weapons,  the 
poor  bison  sank  like  rix)ened  grain  before  the  reaii- 
er's  blade. 

One  young  warrior,  more  ardent  and  fearless  than 
the  rest,  had  forced  his  high-strung  steed  far  into 
the  midst  of  the  solid  ])halanx,  wliei-e  the  horse 
was  Anally  im})aled  upon  the  horns  of  a  monster 
bull.  lie  and  his  rider  Avere  tossed  like  sheaves  of 
wheat  into  the  air;  then  both  sank  to  earth,  and 
were  instantly  trodden  into  the  dust. 

At  last  the  great  storm  had  passed,  and  our  friends 
watched  until  it  faded  away  in  the  distance  and 
finally  disappeared  from  their  view. 

Then  came  tlie  squaws,  the  ])oys,  and  the  old  men, 
to  dispat(!li  the  wounded  and  to  skin  and  cut  up  the 
dead.  These  were  strewn  all  over  the  prairie,  and 
not  a  tithe  of  them  were,  or  could  be,  saved  by  all 
the  peoi)le,  white  and  red,  assembled  there. 

Our  hunters  returned  to  camp  at  sunset,  where 
they  met  those  of  their  companions  who  had  ])een 
out  during  the  afternoon,  and  over  the  evening 
camp  lire,  each  related  the  thrilling  incidents  which 
he  had  witnessed,  or  in  which  he  had  participated 
during  the  day. 

On  the  following  morning  they  again  started  out  in 
severalparties  of  live  or  six  each  and  going  in  various 


AXi)  oi'HKit  iirxTiXi;  .\i)vi:NTrin> 


231 


dirertions.  Fmnk  and  the  newspaper  man  started 
with  tliree  others,  but  soon  separated  from  them  to 
go  after  a  small  band  whieh  they  had  sigiited  about 
two  miles  soutli  of  camp. 

When  within  a  proper  distance,  they  dismounted, 
piclveted  their  hoises  in  a  swale,  and  stalking'  to 
within  al)out  a  liundred  yards  opened  lire.  A  young- 
cow  droi)ped  at  the  tirst  shot,  to  all  api)earan('es 
dead,  and  the  remainder  of  the  band  scurried  away, 
one  old  l)ull  l)eing  badly  wounded.  The  hunters 
started  to  run  to  the  top  of  a  ridge,  over  which  the 
game  had  gone,  to  get  another  shot.  As  they 
passed  the  cow  the  guide  called  to  his  companion  to 
look  out  for  her,  as  she  was  only  "creased"  Mud 
liable  to  get  up  agjiin  and  charge  them.  They  had 
gone  but  a  few  rods,  when,  sure  enough,  she  did 
spring  to  her  feet  and  make  a  dash  at  Frank. 
He  turned  to  shoot  hei',  but  his  gun  nnssed  lire,  and 
as  he  attempted  to  throw  out  the  cartridge,  the  action 
failed  to  work,  and  his  gun  was.  for  the  moment, 
disabled.  By  this  time  she  was  almost  on  him,  and 
as  his  only  means  of  escape,  he  sprang  into  a 
"washout"  (a  ditch  that  had  been  cut  by  the 
water,  some  ten  feet  deep),  the  sides  of  which  were 
perpendicular. 

He  called  loudly  for  help,  but  his  friend  had  not 
seen  the  charge,  and  was  by  this  time  a  hundred 
yards  awav.  He  turned  and  saw  the  cow,  almost 
blind  with  rage,  rai)idly  jumi)ing  back  and  forth 
across  the  washout,  in  a  mad  t^ll'oit  to  get  at  the 
guide,  but  she  seemed  unwilling  to  jump  down  into 
it.  She  was  shot  through  the  throat,  and  the  blood, 
flowing  from    her  in   torrents,    had   deluged   poor 


t  ■ 


t.l 


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PM- 


It'--  > 


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CUriSINliS    IX  TIIK   CASCADES 


Frnnk,  until  lie  look»Ml  ms  it'  lie  hud  hefii  at  work  in 
ji  slaiigiitci'-hoiise.  The  sci'ibe  ran  back,  killed  the 
cow,  and  drew  his  friend  J'roni  Ids  saniiuinary 
retreat. 

The  guide  then  repaired  his  gun,  and  mounting 
their hoi'ses  they  puisned  the  wounded  bull.  'I'hey 
soon  i'ound  him  at  bay,  and  riding  up  close  to  him, 
coiiinienc«'d  liring  at  liim  with  tlieir  revolvers. 
Quick  as  a  Hash  of  liglitning  he  made  a  fi-ightful 
charge  at  the  Journalist,  who,  taken  by  surpi'ise,  wa* 
unable  to  avoid  the  rusli.  Both  luu-se  and  rider 
were  dashed  to  the  earth.  The  horse  was  so  badly 
injured  as  to  be  unable  to  rise,  and  Jis  tlie  burly 
antagonist  made  another  I'ush  at  him,  the  man  was 
enabled  to  seek  safety  in  tlight,  and  before  the  l)idl 
again  turned  his  attention  to  tlie  fugitive,  the  I'ajiid 
and  well-directed  tire  of  the  scout  had  brought  the 
sluggy  beast  to  the  earth. 

The  horse  Avas  fatally  injured  and  had  to  be  shot, 
so  our  friends,  a\  ith  one  horse  between  them,  took 
turns  riding  and  walking  to  camp. 

This  day's  killing  by  the  party  was  large,  and 
supplied  all  their  wants  as  to  meat,  skins,  and  sport. 
The  next  few  days  Avere  devoted  to  jei'king  meat, 
dressing  and  drying  skins,  jind  preparing  for  the 
return  iournev,  and  in  ten  days  from  the  date  of 
their  arrival  on  the  hunting  ground,  the  teams  were 
all  loaded  up,  camp  was  broken,  and  the  homeward 
march  was  begun,  which  i)r()gressed  uneventfully 
from  day  to  day,  and  was  made  in  safety  in  about 
the  same  time  occu[)ied  in  going  out. 

Twice  during  the  hunt  the  party  were  alarmed  by 
the  discovery  of  Indians  lurking  about  their  camp, 


AM)   oTIIKl;    IHNl'IMi    A  KV  KN  TI  l.'Ks. 


^m:j 


hitt' ill  lli»'  nii^lit.  Tilt'  giuiids  discoveivd  tlnMii  in 
l)()tii  iustMiicrs,  ;uid  lii'«'(l  on  tiu'iii,  ulicii  tin-y  l)t';it 
n  iiiisty  ivtreat  and  disiqipcarcd  in  liic  dai'kn«'ss.  It 
was  not  known  that  tli«'ii'ol)jt'ct  was  anything' worse 
than  [liirciiiiu,  and  y»>t  thciv  was  iilllt'  (lon!)t  tiiat 
liad  tlipy  i'onnd  tih'  party  all  olV  uiiard  and  asleep, 
a  massacre  would  have  resulted.  Ihit,  true  to  tlieir 
al>oriuinal  instincts,  they  did  not  wish  to  enuaue  in 
a  li.ulu  with  a  rormidabh'  i'oe,  whom  they  round  ever 
readv  for  such  an  eniei'i'encv. 


i'i:ii\vi.i:i;-. 

Such  scenes  and  such  sport  as  this  party  enjoyetl 
were  cominon  almost  anywhere  on  the  great  plains 
west  of  the  Missouri  river  up  to  ;i  lew  years  au'o. 
Herds  of  hufhilo  extending  over  a  tract  of  land  as 
large  as  oneof  theNei  -  i-lnglaiid  Slates,  and  number- 
ing hundreds  of  thousands  of  heads,  might  be  found 
any  day  in  what  was  then  "'  biilTah)  country,"  An 
army  oflicer  told  me  that,  when  crossing  the  philns 
in  ]8t)7  with  a  conii)any  of  cavaliy,  he  encountered 
a  herd  that  it  took  his  command  three  <hiys  to  ride 
through,  inarching  about  thirty  miles  a  day. 

\Vlien  two  of  our  iraiiscontiiu'iital  railways  were 


^ ' 


iii 


!     Iji 


!  I 


li 


?  Ill' 


1. '^ 

I 


2:54 


("IMISI\<;S    I\    TIIK   CASrADKS 


lirst  Imilt  it  was  no  uuconimon  thing  for  lieids  of 
hiill'iilo  to  (l«»lMy  trains  for  sj'vonil  honrs  in  cross- 
ing tin*  tracks,  tlie  animals  being  packed  in  so  close 
togetluT  that  the  train  could  not  force  a  passage 
through  tlu'in. 

]^ut,  ala;;,  those  days  are  passed  forever.  This 
noble  creature,  provided  to  feed  the  human  mul- 
titude who  sliould  people  the  piairies,  is  to-day 
practically  extinct;  slaughtered  and  annihilated  by 
that  jackal  of  the  plains,  that  coyote  in  human 
.sha])e,  the  "skin  hunter."  Hundreds  of  thousands 
of  l)ulTaloes  were  annually  killed,  their  skins  sold  at 
from  seventy-five  cents  to  a  dollav  and  a  half  each, 
and  the  meat  which,  when  propc  taken  care  of,  is 
equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  ti-  .  domestic  beef, 
was  left  to  rot  on  the  ground. 

There  are  scarcely  a  hundred  buifaloes  left  on  the 
continent  to  dav  in  their  wild  state.  A  verv  few 
stragglers  are  known  to  be  in  the  Panhandle  of 
Texas,  a  small  bunch  in  the  Yellowstone  ^National 
Park,  and  a  few  in  the  British  Xorthwest,  but 
they  are  being  remorselessly  pursued  by  large  num- 
bers of  hunters,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  a  year 
hence  not  one  will  be  left  in  the  whole  broad 
AVest  unless  it  be  those  in  the  ])ark,  and  they  will 
escape  only  in  case  they  stay  within  the  park  limits 
where  they  are  protected  \)y  United  States  soldiers. 
Should  they  ever  stray  beyond  the  bounds  of  the 
park  they  will  all  be  killed  in  less  than  a  week. 
"*  Several  small  bunches  have  been  domesticated  bv 
Western  cattlemen,  and  it  is  hoped  the  species  may, 
by  this  means,  be  saved  fiom  total  extinction. 
They  are  being  successfully  cross-bred  with  domes- 


of 


AM»    OTiiKi:    ii.-.vU.N 


<■    Al,'i;.\Tri;K 


111  •'x-c'llont  srniiri  <>l'  .sf.H-k  is  tl 


tiV'  rnrtl.'.  and 

Pi'odiiccd,  i.iit  fli.Mii;nidlH.rds""t'i 

»t  will  over   tlie  u]., 

past. 


-w   «   Iff 


HIS 


i:n  for  ngt's  rojimcd 
••'t   plains  ;nv  u  tliitio-  of   tii.- 


iil- 


at 


IS 


*i 


ie' 


"•i.«^^y.^^^.^^"'' 


lU 


1     ' 


(MIAITKIJ  \\V. 


iiT'\Tr\<;  TFii;  r.iMKv  moi-xiafn'  (joat. 


Ih 


If 

ill 


i- 


II  I'^UH  is,  jx'i'lmps,  no  hii'uc  in;mmi:il  iiithis 
couiitiy  ol  Aviiicli  tlic  sf'i"!itili(',  anoj-M  ami 
the  ivadiiii;'  piibliv'-  in  liciicral  knows  so 
little  as  of  tho  liocky  JNIonntain  goat 
{Ap/oceri/s  M()}tta)H(.s).  Tliorejire  several 
I'casons  ['()]•  this.  First,  its  limited  i-ange. 
It  is  conrmedro  a  small  area  of  tlu^  Rocky 
Mountains,  principally  west  of  the  main 
divide;  to  Western  jNIontaiia,  Kastern  Idaho, 
thel'ascadellanaein  Wasliinuton/rerri'oiy, 
a  small  portion  of  Jh'itish  Coliind»ia,  and  to  Alaska. 
Seco;i<lly.  its  habitat  is  the  tops  oi'neai'tiie  tops  of  tii«^ 
liiu'hest:  and  most  rugged  peaks  and  cliirs,  whei'e 
none  hut  the  lir.rdiest  and  most  (hiring  liunlei-  may 
venture  in  pursuit  of  it,  and  so  ('omi)arativt'ly  very 
few  aie  ever  killed  and  hi'ought  into  the s»'ttlements. 
Tliird,  it  can  not  he  successfully  domesticatf-d.  Its 
i'avoiitci  i'ood  is  so  dilfei't  lit  J'i<»m  that  generally 
growing  in  or  near  any  settlemeivt,  tlie  atmos])here 
it  breathes,  the  mean  temi)erature  in  wJiich  it  Jives, 
and  the  ground,  or  rather  I'ocks,  on  which  it  is 
accustomed  lo  walk,  so  widely  dill'er(>nt  from  tlutse 
suri'ounding  any    hiiman   habitati(»n,   tlial  the  lew 


AM)    OTIIKK    IK   \TI\(;    A  1>\  KNTr"  ilKS.  ^:>7 

yom.i^thul:  |,;,v.  I....U  <.:,pnj,,,|  .,,,1  Lroudndoun 

;>>lH's,.ftl.Mn..ntsh..,vrsoo,Mli,.|.     Sotlmt'non.  of 

^'"'"""■•''""•"l  i"   l'.irksmi.l/(,(,Io,uirnI  o,,nl,.ns  ns 

^.••;'si>.'nnH.nsorn...rly.m<,llHM-l.,o.,.uildnniM.;,ls. 
1  K'm.'.m  l(weri„.,Mnt..<l. skins  or  this  .-niiM,;,!  i„ 
.l'^:'.stmiiuus.Munstli:n,<,rany  o}!,,,-  ,s,.,.c.i,.s  in.li-..- 
'•ous  to  thi.s  co.n.try,  ,,n.l  Jh.hv  Ih.  p„Mir  .-nHl 
"'"nmlistslmvoJ.ud  IVw.M-  o,,,H.rf uniti.s  to  st.„lv 
'""'  I>''''oine  familiar  with  it  thai,  with  otii.r  uilil 
lUMmmnls.     Y.t  it  is  on.  of  thn  most  h^antilul  i.n.l 

l>iol,al)]y  m>  sportsuKiu  or  imturalist   i.;,s  ov..,-   vH 

mustm.a  (...n-a-*.  and  J.MnliluKHl  P,u,uo.),  ,o  no  u  1.;.,.. 
lH3co,.ldkillaHorkyMo„ntaiuo.oMt'  without  f.-.l 
in.i^  .'nnj.iy  r..,,aM  fornll  the  hU.or  and  hardship 
'"'"''>""f"'vd  l,y  Iviu.o-  ,l,lo  to  holiold  this  n.vstil- 
nv.tnnMn  his  lofty  mountain  hon...  In  vi.u  of 
th.;iinu(..(lhici]iti<.sj,Poi.h.  hiiv<.  hnd  for  sludvin- 
Hs  an,m...l  a  somnwlmt  minut.  .h^scriptionof  it  mav 
not  he  amiss  liciv, 

'H  «i^eitisbutatrilie]a,xorthan  tlio   M.rino 
>sh(,..i>,  whKdi,  m  fact,  it  (dosely  resHml)],..s  ia  manv 

respec^.     Thef<,nnofitslKxlyisrol,ust,fon.^ 

lathr.rthioW  than  hinder  parts,  witli  a  slil,^iltl'un,,, 

oyer  .shonlder.s,  .imiliar  to  tliat  of  tlie   Ameri<-a!i 

Hson.       Its   cdor  IS  entirely  wliite,    or,  in   son.. 

Hi.tMnees.  of  a  Jio-ht  eivamy  sl,nde.     Hair  hmu;  an<l 

i-ndant.      A  l,enrd-like  tnft  of  hair  on  tiie  d.in 

l^on;^  coarse  hair,  more  abundant,  on  shoulders,  n.^ck" 

and  Imvk.  ^    I  n.hn"  and  intermixed  witli  this  hm<r 

hair  thei.Ms  a  dose  coat  of  fine,  silky,  whit,  woof 

e(puil  in  fineness  to  that  of  tlie  Cashmere  ^oat    Hair 

on  lace  and  legs  short  and  witliout  wool.     Horns 


I         ill! 


1^. 


m 

I'i 


M 


M          I 

fiia 

8K 

H    ' 

M 

238 


CKUISIXGS   IN    THE   CASCADES 


(wliicli  are  present  in  both  sexes)  Jet  black,  small, 
conical,  nearly  erect,  poiisliecl,  and  curving  slightly 
backward;  ringed  or  wrinkled  at  the  base,  much  like 
those  of  the  ciiainois.  Muzzle  and  hooi's  also  black. 
False  oraccessoiy  hoofs jtresent.  Dentition:  Incisois, 
S  lowei':  canines,  noiM^:  molars,  12  upper,  12  lowei-; 
total  o2.  The  mountain  goat  brings  forth  two 
or  thi'ee  voung  at  a  tim«^  usually  late  in  May  or 
early  in  June,  t^linhtly  urenarious,  being  freuuenily 
found  in  small  bands  in  winter,  but  in  sunnner  sea- 
son not  more  than  a  single  family  is  usually  seen 
togethei'.  and  in  summer  and  fall  the  older  males 
may  fi'e<|uently  l)e  found  eutirelv  alone.  The  nose 
is  nearly  straight,  ears  rather  long,  i)ointed,  and 
lined  with  long  hair.  Tail  six  to  eight  inches  long, 
clothed  with  long  hair.  Legs  thick  and  short. 
Hoofs  grooved  (»n  sole  and  i>rovided  with  a  thick 
spongy  mass  (d'  cartilage  in  (•♦Milre.  projecting  below 
the  outer  edges  of  hoof,  enabling  the  animal  to 
cling  lirndy  to  steej)  (»r  smootli  rocks.  The  dimen- 
sions of  oac  adult  male  si»ecim»^n  measured  are  a ; 
follows:  Length  from  tip  of  nose  to  root  of  tail.  3 
feet  7  inches;  length  of  tail.  7  inches;  length  of  head, 
llf  inches;  length  of  horns.  8^  inches;  diameter  of 
horns  at  base,  1  inch.  Its  estimated  gross  weight  is 
loO  })( Hinds. 

The  food  of  the  mountain  goat  consists  principally, 
in  summer,  of  the  leaves  of  the  alder  and  of  various 
mountain  shrubs,  and  in  winter  of  mosses  and 
lichens  that  grow  cm  the  rocks. 

Aplocerus  Montanu.s  is  much  more  closely  allied 
to  the  antelope  than  to  the  domestic  goat,  and  has 
few    characteristics    in    common    with    the    latter 


AXD  f,Tii,,,.  urxTix,;  Auv,.:xTn:;;s.         230 

gemis.    lie  i.s  an  agile,  IVnrless  eliniher,  an,l  ,,ppe-,r. 
o  <lel,ght  m  ,s,.a  i„g  ,l,e  tallest,  p-,,„„lest,  a,    t; 
gged  crags  ana  diffs  ,o  be  found  in     l,e    a    '^ 
"liiH     l,e  inliah.ts,    not  so   n,url,  in  ,,„est  of  T,'s 

nvonte  food,  for  tl,isgrow.sabnn,lan,lv,t,.n 
but  apparently  fron,  a  ,nere  spirit  of  ,larin..-  '.I 

<Iesne  to  breathe  the  rarest  and  ,,nrest  at  n,',  I -e 
obtainable  and  to  view  the  grandest  s.vner  n  h  r 
the  ,sun  without  havin-    Ids    vision    i„   tif  I 

ohstrncfedbyintervenin":ol,|eet  TLslf  %r''* 
ami  almost  inaccessible  ,;  ^fa ^  tl  e  T™-;"'''"'! 
nearly  the  ex-dnsive,  hannts  of  .Ids  t  -ang   '  tatn" 

nd  the  hnnter  who  follows  it  thither  in  ,  J 

l&a  daring  mountaineer.     The  ..o'lt  i..  f,.  ., 

found  at  altUndes  of  fo,ooo  to' Hooi^;  t      ^^^ 

;^r::i':::^:,:r::t:hi:'cf''''''"''-'^^'"''-"^ 

leans  fro,,, /I'  ■^"""'  '"'ailess  creature   nimblv 
leaps  fiom  c.   .r  to  crag,  over  deep  vawnh,..-  ehas.ns 
with  1,0  more  lear  than  the  domestic  la,,,!,  IWl   w      1 
hoiinding  over  the  giveusward  in  an  Eastern  hu'm 

Tlie  Imnfer  literally  takes  his  lif.  r„  i,{,    .. 

-..dpiiingei,inio.ei':/;;r:ci ;;!:.::,;:  j^^^^^ 

tal    thousands  of  feet,  or  be  hurle,l  i,„. ,  some  n"      1 

Over  such  rugged  and  perilous  ground  he  nnv 
chmb,  hour  after  hour,  until  he  has  passe    ,L  1  if 

inountaiii 


other  game,  for  the  niount; 


"ep,  and  all  the 


c'liainoi.s,"   a.s  lie  has  I 


img-oat,    "theAmei 


)eeii    aptly    termed. 


lean 


raim-ei; 


I 


II 


24() 


CUriSlNCiS    I\   'I'llK   CASCADES 


i;! 


liiiilicr  lliaii  {Uiv  of  them,  lie  iiuiv  toil  on  until  he 
is  I'iir  :il)ove  tinibei'  line,  and  is  working  his  way 
oveiand  around  "  ist  dril'ts  and  beds  of  perjtetual 
.snow  and  ice.  Finally  he  sights  his  game— a  line 
handsome  Si)ecinien — standing  fearlessly  on  some  jut- 
ting crag,  deliberately  feeding  on  some  tender  lichens 
or,  perhaps,  peering  proudly  out  over  the  lower 
woi'ld.  The  hun^^er  now  changes  liis  course  until  he 
can  conceal  himself  behind  sonui  neighboring  rock, 
and  then  crawls  stealthily  and  cautiously  up  to 
Avithin  ritie  range  of  the  game.  Then,  peering  cau- 
tiously from  l)ehind  his  cover,  he  take.-^  careful  aim 
and  iires.  He  is  m  dead  shot  and  the  ritie  ball  pierces 
the  heart  of  the  quarry,  l)ut  to  liis  dismay  it  makes 
a  convulsive  ])ound  and  down  it  goes  over  the  preci- 
pice, rebounding  from  crag  to  crag,  until  it  finally 
reache.-  u  resting  place  hundreds  of  feet  below.  It 
niav  go  i.>  where  he  can  never  reach  it,  or  mav  land 
where  lie  can  recover  it  on  liis  return  down  the 
mountain  side;  but  if  the  latter,  it  may  be  torn  to 
fragments  and  scattered  here  .ind  there  until  tlie 
hide  is  useless,  the  horns  are  broken  oil,  the  skull 
crushed  so  that  the  head  is  unlit  to  niount,  and  the 
flesh  so  bruised  and  mangled  that  he  can  scarcely 
save  enough  of  it  to  make  him  a,  dinner. 

A  few  years  ago  an  officer  of  the  United  States 
army  and  a  party  of  friends  were  hunting  goats  in 
tlie  Bitter  Root  Mountains,  near  Missoula,  Mont. 
They  followed  two — a  male  .and  female — to  tiie  top 
of  a  rough  and  dangerous  peak,  when  the  game, 
before  they  could  get  a  slM)t  at  it,  started  down  the 
opposite  side  and  took  refuge  from  the  hunters 
under  a  shelving  rock.     Here  it  was,  owing  to  the 


AXD   OTin;,.    nrXTrx<;    M^VKSTrUKs. 


-Ml 


iintuiv  of  t) 


<(>'•  t]ie   liiniteis  to  foil 
1 


i^'  i-'H-ks  and  i,v,  ahsoliirel 


('(M" 


not   t()l)rl,;,ff|,M|   ijlll 

'>",^-»-o,H>  s.rmvly  around  his  hod 


iU'ius.  laid  down,  and 
<lovvn,  on  a  hcd  o|'  ,', 


y  iinj)(),s,sil)|,> 
OH'  tli.'ni   on  ro,,r,   |„n   ,|,,. 

K'piiisnit,  fiVnla 

y.  just  under  liis 

(inietlv 


^vlnleliiscouipanionsJieldou  to  ti 
'■'>1><-  and  conti'olled  1 


ii'  s])inu-  I, is  i'iH,>slid 
some  sixty  or  seventv  feet 


leotlici'cndol'  the 


»is  i)(>riIous  descent.     FinalJ' 
.i^one  larenoiin.!,  ,,,  i„.  .,|,|,.  ^ 


wlien  lie  liad 

i^;nne.  he  signaled  ],is  fri.'inls "  ud 
raisino-  on  )iis  (dl 


()  S(M'   file 
'<>sto])j,ed  liiiu,  and 


and 
h( 


^\'as   then  di 


>'>H-^  li"  liJvd  au<l  kiHed  I.otl 


'\^'»    ni»  auain    in    safer 


>v^-<M:er,  was  the  nature  of  the  roeks  I 


I  .ii'oat; 
Sue! 


1. 


and  the 


caj 


va.sses  that  it  was   uttei'l 


x^fween  him 


^■<^ach  them  aft.n-  he  Jiad  id'l^d  tl 
ir''*'*^  reluctantly   to  al.and 


y  inipossihie  ( 


o 


com 


niemlu 


'•'Ml,  and  he  w 


rs  o 


)tl 


th( 


OH    them. 


IS 


party  tried  to  reach    then,    j 


Se\ei'al 


•^'  unable  to  do 


'•^tuni     empty-jianded 


other  j)oints,    but  wei 
H«^i-c     all      oblioed     to 
camp. 

Ill  anothei-  instance  thi 
in^-outon  theedneof  a  she! 
^owu  over  a  precipice  hundreds  of 'i 


lom 


s(».  and  tlie\' 


lo 


s  same  oflicer,  uj 


H)n  ci-awl- 


^■m-'  lock  and  look 


tu'og-oats  near  the  base,  but  tl 


ect  below 


vinu' 
sa  w 


of 


<ilH^il)cndiculai'lin<' 


i<'yw,M-eactuallvinsi(h 


i'ockIie(,ccupied,andhewastl 


of  the 

fo  brino-  his  j-ifJe  to^^l 

in,< 

tl' 


I'linnino'  (h)wn  i 


I'oni  tin-  ed; 


^'''JJ' "l)on  them  without 
lis  l)ody  out  over  tin-  edi-e  of  tl 


"''■<'i'oreunab|( 


l)l'oieet 


'''!»  was   safe.     After  d 
^ome  minutes,  o„e  of  his  friends'off 


'f'  I'ot'k  furthei- 
iscussinii-   the    matter    f 


or 


nis  ei 


fwt  and  tl 
«lionlders  1' 
lueuns  both  of  the 

16 


^•''>J<'  liini  to  extend  his   head 


II"  cnouiih  out  to  ovt  Iii 


>^i'«'d  to  hoM  I, is 
and 


s  aim, 


ioats  were  killed,  but 


lis 


Hv  tl 


a   partv 


242 


CUriSINCiS    IN     IHK   CASCAUES 


luul  to  u'o  aioiind  iiiid  Msccud  tlif  luoiintaiii  from  the 
other  si'lt'  in  oriltT  lo  secure  them. 

The  same  parly,  uhih'  ('liml)iiiu"  the  ruu'.ued  and 
ahiiost   i)i*ri)e!i(licular  face  of    l>irih'    Moiiiitaiii    lo 
bi'iuu'  down    some  litiats    tliey  liad    already    ]\illed, 
came  siid<leidy  ui»(»ii   a    lai'ue  laick  in  a   iiariow  \- 
sliaped  lissiiie  in  the  r<ick,  from  .vliicli  there  was  no 
escapehiit  l)y  the  opeiijnu'  at  which  tliey  had  entered, 
and  across    tliis  they  ftained  a  skirnush  line.     The 
^'oal  climhed  np(tn  a  nariow  iij-ojectioii  on  one  of  the 
walls  of  the  lissure  just  out  of  ivach  of  the  tallest 
man   in  the   party,  and   as  they  had   no   ritleswilh 
them  (havinii'  left  thenil)elo\v  to  liLiiiteii  the  lal>orof 
the  ascent  I.  they  ti'ied   to  dislodu'e  liiin  hy  tlii';wiii,u' 
r<H'ks  at  iiim.  l>ut  their  footinu"  wa.-.  m)  insecure  ami 
tliei'e  was  such  ureat  daii.u'ei-  of   their  falliii.u'  that 
they  could    not    hurl    these  with   sullicieiit  fol'Ce  to 
brin.u  him  <lown  ihouuh  sevei-al  of  them  hit  him.     if 
tliev  liad  had  a   lope  tliev  could   easilv  have  lassoed 
lum.  hut   there  was  no  such  thinu'  at  hand.     They 
linally  decided   to  leave   one  of   tin'  men  to  .u'uard 
their  [irisoner,  and  on  their  return  to  camp  another 
man  took  a  rille.  went  hack,  killed  the  .uoat,  and  the 
t\\(»  lH)re  him   triumphanlly  down    to  cam[).     The 
gentleman  says  :     '•Jiad  I    not  heeii  an  eyewitness, 
and  had  J  suhseijuenily  heen  siiown  the  j)lace  where 
the  <i(»at  stood  thus  at  l)ay.  1   could   scai'cely  have 
believed  it  possible  Tor  anythiiiu'  lai-.uei'  than  a  tly  to 
have  found  footin.u'  there."" 

Fortunately,  however,  ihe  successfid  hunting'  of 
the  u'oat  is  not  alwa\s  thus  perilous,  for  thou.uh  he 
linbitmdly  selects  for  his  home  the  ]■( uiuhest  and 
most  inaccessible  i»eaks  to  be  found  in  the  mount- 


le 


1(1 

K) 


no 


CM 


th 


ol 


iii.i;' 

\]\d 

i:it 

lo 

If 


)('(! 


nil 
hrr 

Iriu' 


Icrt' 

iive 

to 


<»i 


llKl 

liit- 


ANi)  oiiiKi:  inNiiNi;  ai>\  km  iiiks. 


243 


ains.  v<'t  lit'  soiiK'tiiiM's  niiiucs  on  inort'  favorable 
groiiiid,  ai:'l  if  tlif  qtoi  tsnmii  l)c  so  t'oi'tiinate  as  to 
liiid  liiiii  llirrc  lie  may  he  killed  and  saved.  They 
)aiiue  soiiiewiiat  lower  in  uiniei-  than  in  simiiner, 
hnr  llevel' e\-en  thenvennii'e  dou  n  into  the  ciirions. 
ol'  valleys,  as  do  all  the  oilier  larue  mountain  ani- 
mals. They  only  come  down  upon  the  lower  jteaks 
and  i'idu"s,  and  i-emain  aluait  the  locky  walls,  which 
are  so  pi'ecij)itons  that  the  snow  can  not  lie  on  them 
to  any  consideiaMe  deitth.  Their  ].<)wer  of  climhinu' 
over  and  walking'  (Hi  these  almo>t  |ierj)endicular 
rock  walls  is  ntterlv  astonndin<i'.  Thev  will  walk 
alonu' the  side  of  anniui.u'hr  ^^rojectinu'  leduc  that 

towel's    limidl'eds     of     feet     a'>o\e    ;|jid     helow    them 

where  a  shelf  pi'ojects  not  more  than  four  or  live 
inches  wide.  They  will  climl)  straight  u[)  an  almost 
l)er[)endicnlar  wall,  if  only  sliuhtly  roiiuh  and  irre- 
u'ular,  so  that  they  can  .u'et  a  chance  to  hold  on  with 
their  siionu'v  hoofs  here  and  there.  And  thev  seem 
to  select  these  difficult  passes  in  many  instances 
when  a  u'ood.  easy  ])assa,U'e  could  be  had  to  the  place 
to  which  tlayare  hound  by  u'oinu'  a  little  further 
around.  They  seem  todejiuh!  in  scaliiin' a  d;niu'er- 
ous  cliff  as  a  coiira.u'eous  boy  does  in  climliiuii'  the 
tallest  ti'et\  I  once  saw  where  a  u'oat  had  walked 
straiu'ht  up  over  a  smooth  Hat  slab  of  uranite  ten 
feet  wide,  that  laid  at  an  anule  of  al»out  lifty  decrees, 
and  tli[it  was  covered  with  about  two  inches  of  wet 
snow  and  slush.  I  could  iioi  climl)  u[)  it  with  nioc- 
casiiis  on  mv  fe(4,  and  no  dou' coidd  have  followed 
him  there.  This  faculty  is  accounted  for  by  the 
jieculiar  shape  and  (luality  of  their  hoofs  before 
des(  ribed. 


« 


;  i 

n 


I! 


2U 


(  Krisl.N(;>    IN     lilK    (A^CAIH.S 


Tilt' skill  of  till'  IJockv  Moiiiitiiin  aoat  Ims  nevfr 
liiid  ;iiiy  rcuiihii' ('(>iniu"r('ial  viiliic  Tlic  still',  coarse. 
I'-rittIc  hair  that  ismixed  with  the  wool  rciidei's  them 
iiiisiiitabic  I'oi'  rol)t's  or  niu's.  and  this  hair  can  not 
I'cadilv  be  plucked  out.  The  onlv  dcinaiul  I'oi'  thriii 
is  for  inomitiiiii,"  \'t'iy  I'cw  wiiitc  iiiintcrs  and  none 
ol"  tiic  Indians  nndcrstand  how  to  skin  and  i)rcservc 
tiicni  pi'o])ci']\  I'oi'  tiiis  [uii'i»os('.  and  tliis  I'act,  taken 
in  connection  with  that  of  tlie  roui;'!!  and  <hin- 
i;'ei"(jiis  nature  ol'  the  liroiind  they  inhabit,  makes 
it  dillicult  to  secure  good  skins,  or  even  heads  lor 
mounting. 

The  llcsli  of  tlie  goat  is  edil)le,  but  in  the  adult 
animal  is  dry  and  tasteless.  When  kills  of  less  than 
a  vear  old  can  be  obtained,  their  flesh  is  tender  and 
toothsome.  The}' are  not  hunted. therefore.for  meat, 
for  in  the  ranges  where  they  aic  found,  deer,  mount- 
ain sheep,  or  elks  can  be  ()l)taine(l  much  lower  down 
and  are  much  more  desirable  for  the  table. 

During  a  sojourn  of  a  month  in  the  ]3ittei'  Koot 
Mountains,  near  Missoula,  ]\Iont.,  last  fall  1  had 
some  very  excitinu',  not  to  sav  danueious,  exi)eri- 
em,^es  in  hunting  this  animal.  We  were  camped  in 
Lost  Horse  Canon,  tlu'ou^h  which  tlows  a  typical 
mountain  stream.  The  walls  on  both  sides  are  very 
abrupt  and  from  three  to  four  thousand  feet  in  height. 
Thai  on  the  north  is  coy eri^l  from  bottom  to  top  with 
great  masses  of  gi'anite  that  have  been  broken  loose 
from  the  clift's  at  the  top  by  earthq[uakes.  the  action 
of  frost,  or  other  agency,  and  liaye  tumbled  down, 
breaking  into  irregular-shaped  fragments,  of  all  sizes, 
lodging  and  piling  on  top  of  each  other  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  a  gigantic  sort  of  payement  from 


A.M.   ..,,,■,,,,    InMIX,.    Am,;M,„KS.  .J4r, 

l'"'"'l""',""'   ""-nnuuu  .o,|„.   r„„f.     TluT,.  hvi-p 

1.     .  «i<  ic   III).   oiKci-oMDiMo- <''i-iiiir.. 

.■nm,,,.,    ,,M.sna,uralsl,.p,._i,,,.„,,,,,V'|,i;.;:^' 

',■'';"  'I  ''•■' '»i"iii-M.'aMii..,i,„i„.,ii,„. 

"'•.   .^     .11,1    rcllsoMI,.    cIl,,,!,,,!'    ,,I.„MI    iwn    Mlil,.s 

;  ''  "''-■"  •"  «'■.-«■  Ml......  six  i„H„.s  ,1,.,'  V;, 

-"..■i.o...s„i,i,i„„i„.i,M,i, „iv,,ii;;  Hi,,.,  ; 


.-iiul  ll 


"•"Wliie  IllSUcli;,  W 


or  possihiy  my  Jiend.     'i'j 


loiviu'cessanin  [.ickino- 


K' M"i'*':ir.'.sr cai 


will. 


•'  uas  thd'c- 


<*"unri'y,  and  f  was  1 


"ly  \v;iy()V('i'tliis(|;,„o. 


pi' 'Visions   wliicl,    Xatii 


ii-H(iii(Mir\vsrnick  wiih  tl 


eroiis 


If*  wise 


•'lids  when  I 


'•''  luak^'s   lor   I'liliiiii,,,.-  I 


h:id  I 


^•lu-  wIkmv  tli<'  animal  F 


if'i' 


HJiiuded  liuiiilv  [ 


'":>iiy  feet  in  widrl 


I'oiii  rock  to  rod 


sharp  edo-e  of 


i;  ov  where  ]i..  ]i;,(l 


S( 


tlnve  or  hmv  ind 


'Mie  slalt   of 


was  p!irsiiiii<i> 
V  o\<'i'  chasms 
\\alked  up  tlie 


ics  wid 


■'■="iif^'  nor  nioic  t 


<)!•  ^v\um^  h,.  ii;,  1    .valked 


eand  lyiiiual  aJiiohanuI 


lian 


tilted 


S( 


mountain 


>  ^r''<'P  that  no  other   hn-o. 
'1^  «'<)iild  have   followed  hi 


"P  ov.'i-a  Hat  slab  of  it, 
'^  Jinimal   in  the 


ni. 


Thei 


•e   Avei'(^ 


U: 


J  'i    i 


III 


.  i 


i 


'Mr, 


<  i:fi««iN(is  i\    iiiK  <AS('.\in:s 


mjiiiy  of  Ills  |t;iss:i,ut's  in  uliich  1  ('(»iil<l  iiol  follow, 
I  till  I  li:i(l  to  iii:ik('slo\v  jind  torliioiis  dftoiirs,  com  inn' 
uj)))!!  Ills  ii;iil  imaiu  Im'VoiuI  tlie.s»'  most  (IjiiiiAcrous 
points. 

llnd  he  trjivclcd  sti'tiiulit  idicjid  T  could  iicvfi-  Iimvc 
ovt'itMkcii  )iim.  lull  ilic  time  lie  coiisumcd  in  lif- 
qiU'Utly  stoppinu'  to  nip  the  tcndci'  Iriivcsol'  the 
mountiiin  iildcr  oi-  the  juicy  lichens  tli:il  14 row  upon 
the  rocks  j»i'oved  t';it:il  to  him.  ;ind  linully,  al'ter  n 
cliMse  of  pi'ohiilily  two  miles  iind  when  uciir  the  top 
ol'  the  pe;dv  close  to  tiinbei'  line,  I  came  ill  sulit  of 
him.  Jle  was  truly  a  beautiful  creature.  Theic  lie 
stood,  unconscious  of  a[>pi()achinii'  dan,u'er,  look- 
iii.i;'  calmly  out  across  a  nei,i;hl)oiin^'  canon  as  if 
enjoy  iiiu'  I  he  li'i'and  scenery  about  him.  Occasionally 
he  t  iii'iied  to  take  a  nioul  h fill  of  some  delicate  mount- 
ain herb  that  stood  near  him  Tlu'  i>ale  creamy  while 
of  his  fleece  conliasied  delicately  and  beaiitifiillv 
with  the  n'reeii  of  t  he  <'edars.  l he  ii'olden  aiit  iimn-col- 
ored  leaves  of  the  sliiubs,  thediill  ,<;iay  of  t  he^i-ranite 
rocks,  and  the  pure  white  of  the  early  aiitiimii  snow. 
The  siinlin'ht  i;listen<>d  u])on  llie  ])olished  black  of 
Ills  proudly  curved  and  beautifully  I'ounded  horns, 
and  his  lar,i4'e  black  eyes  gleamed  as  with  conscious 
innocence  and  i)ii(h\  t  contemjtlated  his  majestic 
mien  Tor  several  minutes  befoi-e  I  could  nerve  my- 
self to  tli(^  task  of  taking'  his  life,  but  linally  the 
liunter's  instinct  coiupiei'ed  my  more  delicate  feel- 
iiiiis.  I  put  my  rith^  to  my  shoulder,  pressed  the 
li'ently  yieldin*;' trii^u't^r,  and  in  an  instant  nioi-e  liis 
lil'e  blood  ciimsoiied  the  driven  snow. 

After  makinu'  temporary  dis])osition  of  liis  remains. 
I  returmnl  as  rapidly  as  possible  to  cami)  to  li'et  my 


A\i»  <tTiii;i:  iii\ii\(.  ai>\i:n  iii:i:s. 


•2  a: 


IP 

is 


pliotou'i'Mpliic  (tiitlit  ;iii(l  s(»iiit'  lirlj)  In  cair.x  liini 
ill,  for  we  wt'if  short  of  iiicjit  nl  tlif  tiiiif.  ||  wns 
three  (M'lock  in  tllc  al'leniooll  w  hen  1  renclied  riiiiip. 
iiiid.  e.'itiiiu'  ji  liMsty  liiiieh,  I  siaited  haciv  up  1  he 
MioiintaiM  with  thi'eeol'  iii\'  I'lieiid-^. 

When  we  Muaiii  reachiMl  the  caiciiss  it  was  live 
(/(dock,  and  our  work  must  l)eih>iie  hastily  in  orih'r  to 
t;'ef  down  tile  mountain  as  I'ar  Jis  [)ossilth'  btd'oiedaik. 
To  a(hl  to  tli(;  discomrort  ol'  our  uiKh'itakiiiu'  a  dri/- 
zlini;'  rain  set  in  just  as  I  was  read_\'  to  make  tlic  \  jews, 
I  exposed  a  couple  of  Jthltes.  howevei*,  which  lol- 
tuuately  tuiiieil  out  I'aiily.  We  then  set  t(»  woik  to 
sivin  liiui  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  as  soon  as  this 
was  accoiiii)lished  wi'  started  on  our  I'eiurn  to  camp, 
two  ol"  the  men  lakinu'  the  two  hind  (piarters  of  the 
Jinimal,  anotlier  my  camera,  and  I  the  skin  and  liea<L 
Witli  these  loads,  wejuhinu'  from  twenty  live  to 
tliirtydive  ])ounds  each,  besides  oiii*  I'ilies.  and  con- 
sidering' tile  dillicnit  and  dangerous  naluiv  of  the 
i-round  we  had  to  tinvel  over  and  the  fact  that  it  was 
already  beii'inninii' to  .ii'i'ow  (hi rk.  we  had,  indeed,  a 
perilous  journey  before  us,  *  diml)inu' over  these  lock 
inles  when  covered  witii  snow  was  dillicult  enough 
work  in  (hiyliuht.  but  to  attempt  it  in  the  daik- 
ness  and  now  that  it  was  raininu'  heavily,  the  snow 
having  b(^c()ine  wet  and  slushy  and  the  ro(d\s  moic 
slip[)ery  than  ])ef()re,  it  was  doubly  ]»erilous. 

Our  couise  lay  dia.u'onally  dow  n  and  alonu'  the  side 
of  the  niountaiii.  and  as  lonu'  as  the  liiiht  was  sulli- 
cieiit  to  at  all  see  w  hei-e  we  were  stei)])iiiu'  Ave  made 
fair  prouress.  {''reipieutly,  liowever,  someont,^  would 
.slip  and  fall,  but  fortunatelv  witliout  receivinu-  anv 
serious  injury.     We  were  often  compell(»d  to  hold  to 


r 


2-ls 


(•Kri>iN(;s  IN    I'ln:  ('AS(  \i»i:s 


I.' 


^i\ 


soiin'  sliriil)  nv  irrc  mikI  let  oiiisflvfs  down  (>\»'r  jiio 
ji'f't iii.u,*  I'ocks  st'vcnil  I'rt't,  wln'ii'  uc  could  not  jiossi 
l)ly  li:iv(!  stood  up  without  such  iiid. 

I'^iiiidlv,  when  \v«' were  set  lf>;s  th:iii  liiiH' \v;iv  <h)\\  ii 
thi' Miouiifiiiii  si(h'.  it  Ix'c.'iiMc  [titch  daik.  Here  wc 
silt  down  to  I'ost.  The  niiii  w;is  I'Mlliiiii'  in  tonvnls, 
:iiid  l)iit  I'oi' ihc  snow  on  tin*  ufound  we  couhl  not 
now  have  scrii  ;i  slcp  nlicnd  of  us.  We  had  ciilcrt'il 
one  ol' those  more  favored  strii)s  ol'  hand  v»lieie  tiie 
railing' focUs  had  not  ('oveiv<l  the  uiound  entiiely, 
and  where  tiiei'e  was  a  consi(h'rahh'<irowt  h  oi'tind»ei-, 
liolli  hii'n'e  trees  and  miderhrusli,  I  was  in  ra\-oi'  of 
,U'oin,H'  sirai,!4ht  (h»wn  through  this  into  tiiec  i-cei^  i>ot- 
loin  V  liere  we  couhl  at  h-ast  wali\  in  safety,  even  if 
our  pro^'i'ess  shouhl  i)e  slower.     One  of  r  \    friends 

—  Mr.  Overtuif — aureed  uitli  ine.  hut  th  '  'her  two 

—  Mr.  McWhirk  au<l  Mr.  Ilinciiinaii  — i»referre(l  to 
continne  over  the  rocks  in  a  direct  line  to  camp.  We 
tliertdoie  (h'ci(hMl  to  se))arate,  Fraidv  and  I  uoin^' 
straiuht  (h)wn  throuuli  tiiis  strip  of  timl)er  and  o\er 
tile  sniootiier  ground,  and  tiie  other  two  following' 
the  more  direct  course. 

We  two  readied  tlie  l'o(»t  of  I  lie  mountain  in  about 
an  houi'  more;  not,  however,  Aviliioul  encountering^ 
st'rious  didicullies  in  _ni'aspini>' and  iindin,u'  our  way 
down  over  pre<'ipit()us  rocks  and  earth,  han,ii,inu'  on 
to  one  limb  or  shrub  until  we  came  in  reach  of 
another,  and  thus  leitinu'  ourselves  down  sabdy. 
We  were  then  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  camp. 
The  creelv  bottom  was  densely  timbere(L  There  was 
a  dim  ^^ame  trail  leadinu"  through  it  up  to  oiircamj), 
but  it  was  imi)ossibh>  to  b)lIow  it  in  the  (hiikness, 
iind,  in  fact,  it  reipurcd  the  closest  attent  ion  oi' ex  peri- 


ANi>  oiiiii;  iiiNriNt.    M>vi:\  II  i:i:s.         "iiu 


(MU'cd  ucmmI-iik'H  ;iimI  liiiiitt-rs  lo  follow  il  in  dny- 
li.uiit.  W't'  were  t ln'refore  iitfei-ly  ;it  seM.  We  unv 
s.'ife,  llowevt'T.  ;ill(l  we  lit-nvnl  ;i  >ii;Ii  of  rclit-f  U  liril 
\V»    follll'l  olll"M'l\<'S  oil  Icvt'l  iil(.l|||<l,    for    llolH-    of    US 

li:i(|  rclislit'd  tin'  iflcii  of  li:iviiiu;i  lioiir  l)i(»k('ii  in  tiiiit 
coiiiitry,  so  f;ir  from  rnt'tlicMl  :iiil  .ind  Ii(»mi(' conifnits. 
(ilc.-it  SHOW  slide-;  li;id  for  ii^rs  Im'cii  coiiiilli;'  down 
tlit'sc  iiioiiiiiain  sides  hriiiuiiiii'  llieii'  dehiis,  siidi 
;i^   rocks,    mid    lous,    :ind    whole   trees    with    them. 

These  li;id  fre<|  llelit  ly  ,U'oMe  >omi'  di>I;iliee  into  tilt' 
creek  l)oItom,   l)ie;ikiliu' mid   felliliu'    ;dl    the    trees   ill 

their  piith.  Toriiadoes  hud  raued  throimli  tIiec;i^oii. 
:ilso,  hreakiiiu'  and  l(»i)i»iim-  trees  in  various  direc- 
tions, so  that  w»'  now  eiicouiiieied  a  ))ody  of  W(tods 
tiirouuh  N\hicli  l!:e  ni(»->t  expert  \vood>nia!i  couhl  not 
possiMy  travel  more  than  a  mile  an  hour  in  day- 
light. Add  to  this  the  (  imnierian  darkness  in  w  hicli 
We  were  now  ^ropiir'^'  (i'oi'  there  was  no  snow  here  in 
the  bottom  of  the  cnnoii .  i\].i\  the  ivadei-  may  wi-ll 
imai^ine  t hat  oiir  prouicss  was  sh.w  and  ledi(uis  in 

the  extreme. 

We  sat  down  and  held  another  consultation.  I 
favored  l.uildiiiii' a  lire  and  stay iiii;' there  till  inorn- 
ini:',  luit;  l^'i-ank  preferred  [msliinu'  on  to  camp,  so  I 
jic(ini(^sced.  We  soon  found,  howcvf-r,  that  il  was 
utterly  im[)ossil)]e  for  us  to  uet  thronuli  these  wind- 
falls in  the  dai'kne.ss  and  with  our  liea\y  loads,  and 
deci(h'd  as  a  last  I'esort  to  uet  into  the  bed  of  the 
civek  and  wad.'  u})  it.  We  were  already  uct  to  the 
skin  from  head  to  foot,  and  this  wadinu'  could  be  no 
worse  than  clamb.-rini;'  o\-erlo,<iNand  throuuh  jniiuh's 
of  wet  underbrush.  We  soon  reached  the  creek  and 
our  hearts  sank  within  us  as  we  listened  to  its  tuinult- 


.i 


il 


Ml 


f  [ 


i  t 


•i.'jO 


(•|iri>IN(iS    I\    TlIK    (  ASCADKS 


rt!;« 


ml 

ifli 


lions  roar  and  lookt'd  idoii  its  aii.uiy  liosoni.  lor 
line  uc  weit^  enabled  \o  s<'e  sliu'litiv.  owinu' to  the 
Taint  li.i'ht  adinllted  tliroiiuh  the  narrow  ojiciiin^u'  in 
the  trees  overhead,  how  Kinuhand  hoistcroiis  it  wasi 
Its  hed  was  a  succession  ol"  bowlders  IVoni  the  size  ol' 
a  man's  head  to  that  of  a  small  house,  and  its  waters, 
com  inu' direct  Iroin  the  snow,  were  ice  'Id  Vet  to 
camp  here  was  to  snU'er  all  niulit  from  wet  and  cold, 
and  we  preferred  to  push  on. 

I'v  keepinu-  near  the  shor*'  we  could  nearh  all  the 
time  have  brush  to  han,u'  tw  and  steady  oui'selves, 
but  where  there  w«'re  none  (»f  these  in  ivach  our 
I'ubbtM- boots  sli])))ed  on  thi'  sniooih  wet  I'ocks.  and 
several  times  we  fell  into  :iie  icy  liood  uj.  t(»  our 
chins.  Once,  in  particulai,  I  fell  in  watei-  nearly 
three  I'eet  deep,  droi»i)e(l  my  uun  and  it  went  to  the 
bottom.  T  lished  il  out.  iiowtve]-.  staui;ered  to  niv 
feet,  and  stiiiu'u'led  on. 

After  nearly  tv.o  hoiii's  of  this  :•  rrible  U'liduinu', 
waoin.i:',  and  stauuerinu'.  w«'al  last  r<'a"hed  cam})  at 
'l:v(>n  o'clock  at  idiiht  and  triumpliaiitly  deposited 
our  burih'iis  within  the  tent. 

Oiii-  two  fi'i'.'iids.  horn  whoiii  we  had  sei>arate(.l  e?i 
rotifi\  had  arrived  only  liaM'  an  liou)'  ahead  of  us.  and 
not  wit  hstandinu' the  rail!,  v.hich  still  fell  heavily, 
Di'.  Hale,  who  had  remaine(l  in  camp,  had  a  ui^at 
lou-heap  lii'e  l)laziuu' in  fi'ont  of  ihi' tent.  A  i>ot  of 
coil'ee  steame('  by  the  iire.  and  a  sunii»tuous  sup])er 
of  liroileil  bear  steaks,  baked  jtotatoes,  and  hot 
biscuits  awuited  us.  liut  I  was  too  tired  to  eat.  I 
drank,  a,  pint  ol  hot  colbv.  put  on  diy  llannels, 
(-!">wled  int>)  my  blankets,  and  slept  soundl\-  till 
niorninu'. 


A\i)  oriiF.i;  iii\'UN(.  Ai)Vi;N"rri;i;s. 


:>ol 


ill 


As  fni'tlKT  illiisirariiiu'  tiir  liahits  of  tlic  mouiilaiii 
ft'oiit  and  the  jM'rils  attt'iKliiiu- its  rajitiiiv,  1  may  !•»' 
periuittvcl  to  nanatt'  tlif  rxpciiciicf  of  Mr.  West- 
lake,  a  raiu'liniaii  in  ivistern  Idaho,  who  aitt'inpted 
to  ^,rof'iire  a  pair  of  skins  for  a  IVicnd  in  the  East  a 
''.-\v  yeai's  aL>'o.  lie  ('nij>h)yed  a  Flathead  ln<lian  as 
unide  and  assistant,  who  claimed  to  know  the  conntiy 
tlioi'oniihly  in  wliich  they  pnrjxtsed  hnntiiiu-.  and  to 
ha\e  liad  ('ousideral)le  expeiience  in  iinnlin:^'  uoats. 
Mr.  Wes'lake  provided  liinisell'  willi  a  uood  saddle- 
horse  and  one  packdioi'se,  ;!  rillc.  camp  out  lit.  in<'li.d- 
in.u' a  sni.dl  tent,  and  provisions  for  liimsflf  and  the 
Indian  for  twenty  days.  The  Indian  was  fairly 
inonnted  on  a  small  hnt  ton,uh  Indian  pony  aiul  well 
ai'nie(l.  They  set  out  on  S(>i>teml)er  rl  and  traveled 
aciv)s.s  tile  country  to  the  Cleai'water  rivei'.  np  which 
they  I'ode  sevei-al  days.  ov<'r  a  veiy  diflicnlt  and  tedi- 
ons  trail,  an<l  when  well  nji  tow;u'd  the  head  of  the 
stream  the.v  I't'ached  the  mouth  of  one  of  its  trihn- 
tai'ies  which  dehoin'hes  from  a  deep  and  I'liu'iied 
canon.  Up  this  tliey  (h'ciih'd  to  li'o,  for  it  v.as  their 
intention  to  r^'ach  the  liitter  Root  Mountains,  one 
of  tile  host  known  ranu'es  lor  the  .u'oal. 

This  canon  pi-oved.  like  many  others  in  that 
reu'ion,  ahnost  im])a>sal>le  for  man  oi-  he.-ist.  and  it 
was  with  the  utmost  dillictilty an-l  hy  ihe  endurance 
of  untold  an  '  includible  hardshijjs  that  they  were 
al)le  to  make  seven  or  eiu'h'  miles  ;i  dav.  Thev 
encountei'e(l  plenty  ol'  ,u'ame  in  the  canon.  lioweAci'. 


amonu'  which  weiv  e 


ht'ars.  and  mnh'  (h'cr.  and 


the   creek  which    ran    thronuh  the   cafion     vieldcd 


them 


an   ahundance  of   trout,  so   thai    lliev  fared 


.sumptuously  so 


far  as  lood  was  concerned. 


('l;r!>I\(.>    I\    TIIK    CASCADKS 


^. 


iil 


Fiiiallv,  nt'tci'  s('\cr:i.l  davs  in  tliis  ciifioii.  tlicv^ 
ivaclit'd  iIk'  head  of  il  and  caiix'  out  on  a  lii_u'li  pla- 
teau which  was  covered  with  heavy  jniie  tiinher 
iiitei'spersed  with  beautiful  i»afks  or  meadows  aiul 
thickets  ol'  jispcMi  and  alder.  Xuiueioiis  s})ringsl)oil- 
iiiii'  u})  hei'c  couised  down  into  1  he  cauou  from  wJncii 
they  had  Just  eineru-e<l,  and  WA  the  cieek  wliich  ran 
thi'ouiih  it.  rres>inu'  forward  across  this  forma- 
tion for  a  distance  of  ahout  ten  nnles,  they  r(^ache<l 
the  liase  of  one  of  the  ufeat  snow-cai>i)ed  })eaks, 
near  the  toj)  of  whicli  they  t'xpect<-d  to  iind  the  par- 
ticular game  of  which  they  were  in  search.  l>ut 
tiiis  mountain  w;is  so  pr(M'ii)it()ns  an<l  so  rougli  that 
it  was  im[)ossil)le  for  them  to  get  their  horses  up  it  in 
anv  wav.  'I'hex-  di'-cii»cd  \arious  plans  of  accom- 
plisiiinu'  theii-  object.  It  was  hiuhlv  dangerous  to 
leave  their  horses  here  alone,  lest  the  bears  or 
mountain  lions,  which  wt^re  so  numerous  in  the 
viciinty.  should  stam[)ede  and  run  them  olf.  It  w;is 
iin]>ossil)le  foi'  eithei'  man  to  go  alone  and  laing 
down  two  of  the  skins  and  heads  suitably  j)i'epared 
for  mounting,  as  they,  with  the  othtM-  load  whi(di  it 
was  necessarv  to  take  aloau'.  would  be  more  than 
anv  one  man  could  carrv.  It  woidd  lake  tuo  davs 
t(»  make  the  ascent,  have  a  lew  hours  for  hunting, 
and  return  to  where  tliev  then  were,  and  in  older  to 
pass  the  night  at  all  comfortably  in  that  high  alti- 
tude ;i  liberal  su]>ply  of  blankets  must  be  carried. 

They  theiefore  decided,  as  the  oidy  feasible  plan, 
to  make  camp  where  they  were  and  start  up  early 
the  next  morning,  leaving  their  horses  behind. 
They  imide  all  possible  prejtaratioiis  that  night,  and 
the  next  morinii'j;  arose  at  four  o'clock.     I^v  sunrise 


I    i 


AM)  o'niKi:  in\ri\(i  ai»vi;n  i  ii:i;s. 


'2X1 


III. 
lly 

i. 

Ill 


they  li;i(l  hrmkl'iistt'd.  ami  uiili  ilirji-  packs,  cdu- 
sistinu,'  of  two  pairs  dl"  hlankt'lscacli  and  a  two  days' 
siip[»ly  of  (H)okf'd  food,  tlicy  -  tartcd.  Tlicy  did  not 
dart' ])i('k<'t  oi' lioM)!*'  their  lIo|•s('>^,  as  cit  lirr  would 
uivc  tiie  \vild  Itcasls  a  cliaiici'  to  attack  and  kill 
tlh'iii,  and  could  only  ti'u->t  to  luck,  an  al)Uiidaiit 
supply  oi'  u'ood  ii'i'ass  ami  waliT.  and  tln'  well  know n 
attaclmu'iir  which  ncarlv  all  Wcsicru  horses  feel  I'ur 
a  caiu]),  to  kee[)  th  Mil  there  until  their  return. 

After  a  liai'd  day's  clinil)  they  came  upon  alxin- 
dant  siii'iis  of  ;L;,'oals  al)out  the  middle  of  the  afler- 
uoon,  and,  prf^parinu'  a  tt'inporary  bivouac  nmiei'  a 
shelving'  rock,  tliey  deposited  their  loads,  made  a 
pot  of  coll'ee,  ate  a  lieaity  diiiii;'!'.  and  slaiteil  out  to 
look  for  the  game.  They  iiad  not  uoiie  far  when 
Mr.  Westlake  siiihted  a  laruc  handsome  male  i;oat 
standinu,'  on  the  top  o"  a  clilV.  and  ai>itroacliinu,' 
within  easy  rille  r.iiiue  he  jired  and  killed  it.  it  fell 
some  twenty  or  thirtv  J'eet.  and  lodued  behind  ii  luo- 
jeciiiiL!,'  slab  of  ui'aiiite.  It  was  secured  after  consid- 
erabh'  hai'd  woi'k,  liastily  skinned,  and  the  sldn  and 
.some  of  the  Ix^st  cuis  of  the  meat  carried  to  their 
temporary  camp.  Xiulit  was  now  approachinu',  and 
the  hunters  set  about  prepariiiLi' a  suii])lyor  wood. 
There  were  nimieioiis  dead  ))ine  and  cedar  1 1'ees.  of 
stunted  ii-r(»wth  and  jieciiliar  shapes,  staiidinu'  and 
iyin.ii,"  anionu'  the  rocks,  and  a  ueiieiou-^  su|>;»ly  was 
s(»on  i)ro\ided.  Next,  a  larue  oiiantily  of  cedar 
l)o;i,i;lis  wei'e  cut.  broiiuht  in  and  sjd-ead  un  ler  the 
overhaniiinu'  rock,  to  a  dei)th  of  a  foot  or  mo:  '.  On 
these  tlie1dank<'ts  were  si)read.  and  the  linntei-s  had  a 
bed  wdiich  many  a  tired  lodger  in  Kastern  city  hotels 
miii'ht  well  envy  them.     By  bnildin.u'  u  rousing-  tire 


L>:)4 


Cia  ISINCS    I.V     11!  K    (  AX  ADKS 


in 


ill  IVoiiT.  uliicli  uiis  r.'llcctf'il  ;m;iiiist  \\w  rock  wall 
Ix'liiiul  liif'iii.  :iii(l  by  nccasioiially  r<'[)l('nisliiH,u'  it 
diiiiiiu'  tilt'  iiiuhr,  iIh'V  sl('[)t  ('(Uii  Cor  ("ably,  tlioii.uli 
I  111'  tf'iiqx'i'al  II rt'  i-aii  .'<i'\ cral  dfui'tM's  Ix'low  zero. 

Karlv  tli<' next  iiioriiiim' bet h  men  slartt'il  out  in 
search  (>r  a  female  <^'()ar  to  cnminete  tlieir  mider- 
takiiiii'.  Nearly  two  lioiirs  had  l>eeii  sjient  in  imiit- 
iii;:'.  wlieii  the  Indian  i'oaiid  a  fresh  trael^  in  the 
siioNv  some  distince  ab(»\(^  llieir  temporary  cam]*, 
lb'  b)ih»\ved  it  until  it  led  iiiaimuii^'a  b)rest;  of  rent 
and  jau.u'ed  cllfl's  of  liraiiile.  and  Westlake,  \v|io 
was  some  distance  away,  st-einu'  by  tlie  Indian's 
motions  that  he  was  on  a  ti'ail,  started  toward  him. 
When  within  a  b'W  b-et  of  where  he  had  last  seen 
the  Indian  lie  heard  the  repoit  of  his  lille.  and  a 
shout  announced  that  his  shot  had  been  successful. 
Mr.  Westlake  b>llowed  on  into  the  chasm  from 
wiieiice  the  re|>{n-i  c.iiiie  and  saw  I  he  Indian  attempt- 
inn'  to  scale  the  si'.b^  of  ;i  nearly  p  ■i'[)eiidicular  wall 
of  rock,  st  'ppinu'  cautiously  from  niche  to  niche 
and  shelf  to  sh'lf;  holdinn'  on  with  his  hands  to 
e\-ery  i)roiectiim'  ]»oiiit  that  afforded  him  any  assist- 
ance, lb'  linally  r"ac!i<'d  the  top  of  t he  ledu'e.  and 
reachinu'  over  cauuht  hold  of  I  lie  now  lib'less  body  of 
the  u-oat  ihat  he  had  killed,  aiil  divw  it  toward  him. 

But  when  it   switmi'  oil"    fl'om  the  top  of    the  ledu'e  its 

weiu'lit  and  the  cons'cpient  strain  on  his  muscular 
jiower  was  n-reater  than  the  Indian  had  anticipated, 
and  l)eb)i*e  he  had  time  to  let  uo  of  the  earcass  and 
save  himself  his  sliuht  hold  on  the  I'ock  was  torn 
loo.se,  and  uttering  a  wild  shi'iek  he  b'll  a  distance  of 
nearly    sixty    i'eet,   strikinu'  on    a   hea[>   of    broken 


rocKs 


lb'  was  instantiv  killed. 


Ir 


AM)    ol'IIKU    IirNII.\(i    Al>Vi:.\l  IKKS. 


2X> 


ll<'i'»'  wiis  a  sad  blow  to  poor  Wcstlakr.  His  only 
('oiii[)aiiioii,  ills  faitliriil  .u'liidc,  and  llic  only  hiiniaii 
ix'inu' within  tit'ty  miles  of  liini,  lava  corpse  al  his 
feet,  lie  had  no  means  whatever  of  uetliiiu'  tln^ 
l)ody  Iiaek  to  their  camp,  mncli  less  of  ictnrninn' it 
to  the  nid'ortnnate  I'ed  man's  friends.  He  iiad  not 
e\-en  a  tool  of  any  kind  to  diu'  a  ura\('  with,  and  the 
oidy  thini;'  lieconld  <lo  in  that  direction  was  to  bnild 
a  wall  of  i()c'.;s  aronnd  the  body,  lay  sonn^  Hat  slal)s 
aci'oss  the  to]),  and  then  ciiiy  and  lay  on  toj*  oT 
tliex'  a  nnmber  of  the  lai'uvst  and  heaviest  I'ocks  he 
conid  handle,  to  jirotect  it  from  the  lavaucs  of  wild 
beasts.  When  this  satl  dnty  was  completed  he 
r<'tnrned  with  a  heavy  lieait  to  tlieir  tempoi'ary 
camp,  and  with  as  mncii  of  their  Inu'uauc  as  he  was 
al)le  to  can  V  started  down  the  monntain.  Arrivinii: 
abont  in)()n  at  the  tent,  he  was  hoiiilied  to  lind  the 
tracks  of  a  lai'ue  bear  in  and  about  it,  the  ^'renter 
[)ortion  of  his  snp[ilies  eaten  n[)  oi' destn-yed.  and 
his  horses  nowhere  in  siuht.  A  iiasty  examination 
showed  tliat  the  beai'  had  jiassed  t  liionuh  t  he  lit  tie 
park  in  which  they  had  hist  ))een  urazini;- — evidently 
early  that  mornin.u' — that  they  liad  tak<'n  lliulit  and 
tied  in  the  dii'ection  of  the  iiead  of  the  cai'ioii  np 
which  they  jiad  come.  Westlake  followed  them 
several  miles  nntil  com  inced  that  they  had  leally 
started  (»n  their  l)ack  trail,  and  then  he  retained  to 
camp,  liy  this  time  niuhl  was  auain  a[)[)roachinu' 
and  it  was  witli  a  lieavy  li-'art  that  he  piejiaied  to 
pass  it  tlier<'.  all  alone,  and  still  fnither  depressed 
with  the  tlionulit  that  lie  had  now  a  Jonrney  of  a 
In  I  nd  red  miles  or  more  before  him.  to  the  nearest  set- 
tlement, which  he  ninst   nndoiibtedlv  make  on  foot. 


i 


s 


i 


r  i 


1 1-. 


til 


I- 


w 


•    - 


'2r>ij 


(M:risiN(;->  ix    I'lii;  (■as(  ai>i;s. 


He  ;ite  liis  .sup])!'!"  nloiic  mid  in  sadiit^ss,  tiiid  ;is  the 
CMiHp  iir(^  bhi/cd  in  fiont  of  iiis  tent  it  cnst  iiiliil 
.sli:id<)\vs  into  llic  lilooin,  Avliicli  wjis  iinl)rokeii  by 
any  soniid  s.-ivc  llic  occasionnl  sou^hini;'  of  tlie  wind 
tliioiiuii  tlif  pine  trees  oi'  tiieciyoi'  some  wild  ani- 
nial.  lie  linally  i-eiired  to  lest,  l>ut  ids  slee])  was 
brolveii  b\-  tionbled  dreams  ^Vs  tln^  sun  arose  in' 
l»re[»:iied  a  hasty  meal,  which  was  eaten  in  silence, 
■<\\M  with  a  i)air  of  l)laukets,  a  few  i)onn<'s  of  tloiii'. 
salt,  and  colb'e,  and  his  ri!l(\  he  started,  leaving  his 
tent  standin.u'  nnd  all  else  in  it  as  a  moiiinnent  to  the 
memory  of  his  friend  and  a  laiKbnark  to  future 
hnnters  and  monnttiineei-s  to  locate  the  scene  of  his 
<2;real  iinsfortnne.  II(»  traveled  sevoi  days  befv);e 
weeing  the  lace  of  a  hnmaii  being  oi  •^.leeping  undei' 
a  shelter  of  any  kind,  when  he  linally  i'eache(l  a 
ranch  wlitM'e  his  horses  luul  ]>receded  him  and  had 
been  coi  raled  to  await  an  owner. 

It  is  fortnnale  that  all  goat  hiintei's  do  not  meet 
with  s.ich  disasters  as  did  poor  Westlake  and  his 
yoiinii'  friend,  or  the  noble  s}»()rt  would  have  still 
fewei'  votaries  than  it  now  has. 


CHAPTER  XXYI. 

TROfTIN-,,  I.V  Tl.,.;  ,:,„,KY   MorXTAIXS. 

A^   SEPTEMBER,    l«,4,   I   joined  a   na.-tv  of 


«5>jw^ 


ms  1  -1"  V,  111  J,  iuis.^iion  was  to  Inmt 

l#    n«'h    for    the  trip,    whi.-li    o.ru,,ie,l    uu, 

with  us  t,.,„e,l  what  ,vo„l,l   otli.nvise       n-. t 

i.om  cneii  ci.\ stalline  retreats  anil  transferrin,,  ti, 
13  our  creels  and  our  can,;,  table.    "'"'■'''''""«  *'"-»' 

o"    of  t   ' T,    r  "■"■"''''  '^■"™''^  '^"'°'-  f'^'t  tu  n  I 
Hellgate  rlver.'iultre!;::?  l^Zr"^''^  ^'^  '''^ 


:  Vi 

I;-' 


;■■  i 


li 


17 


(^'•■ir) 


258 


<J1{LISL\(;S   I.\    llli:  CASCADES 


AM)   OTIIKIJ    lir.\TIN(}   ADVKXTinKs.  o;,j) 

Its  v.lN.y  is  tw.,  to  |\.,u' iMil,..s  wi(l,.,  an.l  th..  l.mri. 

l>orti(>uoltln.sis(,(r.ii,ie(n)yuunR.i-oiisnni,.l,,.s    Tlie 

soilisnlN.l  by  u'HI-t,Mlof:,nn..rs  <„-.,, lurhmen- 

osp-nU  nitlMMvninn.l..,,.  <,rii.,  ,o,„„,.v.  s,,  tliMf 

the  aiioler,  whih'  uithiu  n  ,„il.>  ,„•  two  of  m- ..l 

mountain  p.Mks,  is  stillin  tluMHMst  of  <.iviliza7i:>n, 
^vliere  lus  Innh^y  uuiy  (L.ily  I.h  ivplenisl,,.!  with 
ne  .rly  uU  t)ie  varieties  ut  n,,o,l  things  tl.af  ^nnv  on 
any  .New  Lno-huul  lann.  TI.m  l.anks  of  the  st,va,n 
;M-e  rino-ed  with  stately  pines  and  cottonwoods,  and 
111  plares  witli  thickets  of  umh'rhrnsh 

^;'-;"'i  a  tiny  hrook  at  its  somre  the  stream  -rows 
I'apid  y  to  a^  veritable  rivei- of  thiitv  to  tiCtv  va.ds 
111  width  as  It  passes  on  toward  its  (h-stination  It 
•sweeps  and  whirls  in  its  e<,nrse,  here  runnin,. 
straight  and  pla<-idly  for  a  Jinndred  yards,  then 
tiirnuio-  ahi-uptiy  to   nVht   or  left    and   retnrnin- 

alniostparalleltoitself,  fonnino-horse-slioehends - 
-ox-bow    bends,-     con.ponnd    S's,    rioht    an^kis 

etc.  .^      < 

111  many  cases  it  tumbles  down  ov.t  a  Ion-  sfei, 
pavement  of  oranite  bowlders,  workin-  itselFinto  u 
veiy  a-ony  of  bnbbles  ami  foam,  ami  when  the  foc^t 
ol  this  tall  IS  reached  it  whirls  and  eddies  in  a  -reat 
pool  ten  or  twenty  feet  ,hvp  and  c(,verino-  half  an 
ace   ot    ground,    almost   surrounded    bv   hioh-cut 
banks,  and  seeniin-  to  have  lost  its  wav.'    It  event 
ually  hiids  an  exit,  hou-ever.  throuMh  an  openin-  in 
the   willows   aiKl   masses  of   driftwood,   and  a-ain 
speeds  on.  * 

_  In  many  of  these  lar-e,  deep  pools  whole  trees   ot 
pant  size,  brou-ht   down   by    the   sprino-  freshets 
have    found   lod-nient  beyond   the   p,>wer  of   the 


111 


i  ! 


li 


w^ 


!  I 


'  1 1 


I      i 


I 


4         ' 


I 


1 


■:'.i-    I 


200 


(ItllSlNiiS    IX    TIIK    CASCAnKs 


mighty  rnnvnt  to  diivc  tlicni  I'luihci-,  and  iindcr- 
iiciitli  tlu'si'  dril'tstlu'  Miiult'i-  isliahh'  to  liook  ;i  lusty 
trout  tli:it  will  uuikc  shoit  work  of  liis  tjickh'  if  he 
be  iKJt  vciy  fivntle  and  expci't  in  nianipulatin.u'  It. 


SDl.Il)    COMKOIiT. 

This  river  niiiy  be  iished  i'rom  ii  canoe  or  ))ont,  if 
it  be  manned  by  a  master  of  the  art  of  fresh-water 
cruising;  but  no  amateur  oarsman  or  canoeist  sliould 


ANh  ••iinij  ni\riN(i  .\i»\'i:Nrri:i;s. 


201 


if 
d 


t'ver  Mtit'iiiiit    ii   nr  lit'  will  siircly  coint' to  aiiff.     It 

IllilVillso  he  IIsIkmI  I'ldlll  til*'  l):illk  .H"  l>v  wjidjim-; 
;iii(l  I  litivc  ('Veil  kn(»uii  it  lo  ))•'  IIsIkmI  IVdiii  lli»' 
liiirricniu'dcck  of  ;i  ciiyiist',  so  tlmt  till  lovers  of  ihe 
ut'iiilt'  ni't  iiiiiy  !)('  ;i('('oimiio(l;it<'(l. 

A  hiruv  Itiimi>  of  ciiiitioii  would  iilso  he  ;i  u'ood 
tliiiiu'  loi'the  MKiii  to  take  jiloiiu'  who  cssnys  to  wiide 
it,  I'oi  lit*  will  tiud  i)la('«.'s— slippery  i)lii<'<'s--\vlieie 
even  the  wicked  can  not  stand;  for  over  tiie  siii-face 
theieof  Hows  such  ;l  iniu'lity  ton-eiit  of  watei's  that 
his  ])i'i(le  will  siiK'ly  have  a  fall,  even  if  he  do  not; 
and  if  he  u'et  out  with  a  dry  thi'ead  on  his  back  he 
will  I'.'iiard  it  as  a  luitacle  and  not  owinu'  to  anv 
skdl  or  sti'enuth  of  his.  I  think  a  dav  on  that 
stream  will  take  the  conceit  out  of  any  livin-j;  man 
and  show  him  what  a  poor,  weak  wo  ni  he  is,  //"  he 
U'er  into  some  of  the  places  I  have  lieell  in.      lie  will 

lind  himself  in  positions  from  whence  h»'  woidd^ive 
half  his  woi'ldly  }H)ssessions  to  l)e  de1i\eied;  where 
he  would  foi-u'ive  his  hitieiest  eiu'iny  tln^  meanest 
thinu' he  ev<'r  did  if  he  were  only  there  and  would 
cast  him  n  friendly  line.  The  hed  of  the  stream  is 
composed  of  glacial  drift,  all  the  rapids  lieiiiu  ))aved 
with  bowlders  vai-yiiiu  in  size  from  an  inch  to  two 
or  three  feet  in  dianietei-.  These  are  worn  smooth 
by  1  he  action  of  the  water  and  conted  with  a.  liu'ht 
growthof  funu'us.  so  that  they  furnish  a  veiy  pi-e- 
carious  footinu'  at  best,  and  when  the  ])ower  of 
the  raging  toi'ivnl  is  lirouuht  to  l)ear  against  one's 
netluT  limbs,  he  is,  indeed,  fortunate  who  is  not 
swept  into  the  ])o(d  below. 

On  the  rittlesor  morei)lacid  ]»ortionsof  the  stream 
wading  is  not  utteiided  with  so  iniich  danger  or  dilii- 


I 


!i! 


0(;0 


<'i:iisiN(,s  i:;  ';;iK  cax  aim:s 


ciilty.     And  \vliil<'  the  Jiiiulrr  l)('u,'iiil(s  llic  hours  in 

(hillijiiicc   wiili  tlicsc  l)('!iiili<'s  of  tln'   liviT,    uaziiiu' 

into  its  ci'vstjilliiit'  (It'i)tlis  ii!i<l  toviiiu'  witii  its  poetic 

(If'iii/nis,  ii  njjinct'  to   cast  »)!■  wcsi   iwrals   to  liiiu 

s('(Mi«'s   of    even  .uiaiKJcr  and    iiioi'o 

iiispiriiiii'  lovt'jiiicss;  I'oi'  1iit'i-t>,  so  .    . 

close  as  to  I'cvf'al  tiieii'ever\   i-ocjv         ,'i, 

Jliwl    slinil),    towel-    tile    siiapely     ;;|iii>l^iL 

peaks,  the  sliattercd  ci'a.ns  and  /w  .tjxvi.!'; 

beetling-  dill's  wliicii  constitute  .^t^r-^^i^ 

tiie    J^itter    J{oot    ranu'e    of   V;i* 

mountains.    And   even    in   .y%^\ 

niidsumniei'  tin^   fivsli,      .JIj 

])ni'e  hl'eezes  sweep-       ..-f^ 

ing  th)wn  i'roni  '■'4^,'^ 


:^fii)  iirsiiiyG  watkrs. 


tliese  snow-chid  summits  I'an  liis  pandied  I)i'()w  and 
render  existence,  under  sucli  circumstances,  tlie 
realization  of  a  poet's  dream. 

On  a  bright,  cheery  September  morning,  Piivate 
Westbrook,  of  the  Third.  Infantry,  and  myself  left 


AM)  oriiKi:  iii'NiiN*.  .\i)\i;Niri:i;s. 


m.i 


r;ini[)  ;is  soon  as  tli<'  siiii  hud  cxpfllcd  ilic  liosi  lioiii 
tli».  V('u,('t;ili()ii.  {)\i  llif  uiiy  down  wi- (-.•nmlit  a  iiiini- 
IxM'ot'  <ii-as,shoi>i»t'r.s  — the  oitliodox  bait  in  tins  rcuioii 
— to  i'all  baclv  on  in  rase  of  nt'ct'ssiiy;  lor  t  lifiv  ;ir»' 
<la vs  when  llif  iiioiintaiii  trout,  as  well  as  liis  coHsiii, 
the  brook  trout  ol*  tlu*  East,  (U'clincs  tlif  most  scdiic- 
tivo  Hy  on  the  bill  of  I'ai't',  and  will  have  iiothiiiu'  but 
his  i'avoritt^  cverv-dav  did. 

Arriving-  at  thf  I'ivcr.  \\'t'stl)i'ook  skirniisiird 
thi-ons^'h  the  bi'ush  iiiilil  la-  found  an  alder  al)oal  :in 
inch  and  a  (jnarttT  in  dianit'tcrat  thcuioniid  and  ten 
or  twelve  feet  hiuh.  This  he  cat,  trinini<'(l  np.  and 
atta('he(l  his  line,  a  nntnbei' two  Spiojit  hook  and  a 
si)lit  shot,  put  on  a  ••  ho[)per,'"  and  was  ready  for 
l)nsiness.  L  lemonstrated  o-(.iitly  with  him  on  the 
heat henisli character  of  his  tackle,  but  iie  said,  pleas- 
antly and  politely,  that  it  was  the  kind  that  gener- 
ally got  to  the  Iront  when  trontdishiiii''  was  the 
business  in  liand.  He  sidd  the  fancy  rods  and  i-eels 
and  Hies  were  all  well  enonuh  for  those  who  wanted 
to  use  them,  but  he  i)i'eferred  soinethinij,'  with 
which  he  could  round  up  his  lish  and  <'orral  tht-m 
without  losing  any  time.  He  said  it  was  all 
right  i'or  any  gentlemen  to  s[>end  half  an  hour 
nioidvcying  a  tioiit  after  he  lia<l  hooked  it,  if  he 
wanted  to,  but  I'or  his  ])art,  he  nevt^i-  could  see 
much  fun  in  that  sort  of  lishing.  He  thought  it 
was  (leci<ledlv  more  interesting  to  yank  a  lish  in 
out  of  the  wet  the  instant  he  ))it,  and  then  lay  for 
another. 

He  walked  ])oldly  out  into  the  stream,  waih'd 
down  a  little  Avav  below  the  ford,  on  a  rittle,  till  he 
reached  a  point  where   the   water  was    about  two 


1 


yiu 


CIMISIXOS    IX    THE   CASCADES 


':  111 


ft'ct  deep  anil  wliere  it  rolled  sullenly  and  gloomily 
over  a  series  of  large  }K)\vi(lei's. 

Here  he  mnde  a  cast,  and  his  bait  had  barely 
touched  the  water  when  thei'e  was  a  vicious  rush,  a 
swirl  an<l  a  <lash  downstream ,  I  ait  the  cruel  pole 
was  brought  to  bear  in  the  opposite  direction. 
Then  there  was  a  flop,  a  splash,  a  hop,  skip  and  a 
jump,  and  a  three-pound  trout  took  a  header  and 
went  down  into  the  soldier's  haversack. 

The  bait  was  renewed,  another  cast  made,  and  the 
act  was  repeated  on  a  hali'-pounder.  Then  another 
weighing  one-and-a-half  pounds  and  a  coux)le  of 
about  a  pound  each  followed  in  rai)id  succession, 
when  this  portion  of  the  stream  failed  to  yield,  and 
Westbi'ook  moved  on  down.  I  followeu  Jilong  the 
bank  and  watched  him  foi  half  an  hour  before 
attempting  to  lig  my  tackle  at  jdl.  To  watch  the 
phiy  of  the  various  eni()ti(ms  on  his  hard,  bi'own, 
Inaiest  face;  to  study  the  effect  of  the  intense  enthu- 
siasm which  possessed  him;  to  note  the  utter  disre- 
gard of  personal  safety  and  comfort  with  which  he 
would  plui'ge  into  the  surging  rapids  and  eddies  up 
to  his  waist,  or  even  to  his  arm-pits,  wherever  he 
thougnt  he  could  catch  a  trout  by  so  doing,  was  a. 
genuine  treat. 

Finally  T  went  ba''k  to  the  ford,  jointed  up  my 
rod,  put  on  a  gr.'iy  professor,  and  wnlking  down  the 
bank  to  a.  sudden  bend  in  the  river  where  the  current 
had  cut  a  deep  hole  near  the  bank,  I  made  a  cast. 
The  iiy  dropped  on  the  riffle  just  above  the  eddy, 
and  as  it  lioated  gracefully  on  the  little  v.tivelets 
down  and  out  upon  the  bosom  of  the  deep-blue  nun- 
iature  ocean,  it  turned  hither  and  thither  with  the 


acXv 


">«»»«.«« 


AND    OIIIKK    lirXIIN(.    Al>\' INITKKS. 


raOo 


cnpricious  (MUTfMits  tliat  played  there,  for  ])^'l■lu^ps 
Hve  luiniites,  I  was  just  in  the  act  of  reelino-  up 
for  another  cast,  wlien  a  uleani  ol'  silverv  liulit 
Haslied  upon  my  vision,  tiecked  with  settin.us  of  jet 
and  ^i^'old.  There  was  a  niiu'hty  commotion  u[ionthe 
surface  and  a  monster  trout  leaped  full  into  tlie  air 
as  he  seized  tlie  feathered  l)ait  and  then  sliot  down, 
down  into  the  crystal  Unid,  leavin.u'  tlie  watei'  in  the 
vicinity  of  his  exi)loit  huhhlinu'.  effervescinu'.  and 
s[)arklinu'  like  the  rarest  old  champaune.  For  the 
nonce  1  was  [)aralyzed  with  the  suddenness  and 
viciousness  of  his  comini;'  and  uoinu'.  and  my  i-eel 
was  sinu'inu'  merrily  when  I  awok<'  lo  a  realization 
of  what  it  all  meant. 

Tiien  T  thuinhed  the  cylinder  and  checked  him  in 
his  wild  liii;ht.  l)ut  he  continued  to  liu'ht  his  way 
clear  down  to  the  lowei"  end  of  the  pool,  a  distance 
of  twentv  vards.  Then  he  tuined  and  caiue  toward 
me  with  the  speed  of  an  arr<  w.  but  the  automatic 
reel  took  U[>  the  >h\vk  as  ^apidly  as  he  uave  it. 
When  within  twentv  feet  of  me  he  turned  out  into 
the  stream,  and  as  1  checked  him  he  auain  vaulted 
into  the  air  and  the  sundiuht  <ilistened  on  hisheauti- 
fully-coh^red  sioes  and  tins  as  he  sri'UU'uhMl  to  free 
himself.  Findinu'  tliis  iiii[>ossil)lt-  he  started  for  the 
hatdv.  where  brush  and  joots  [»rojected  into  the 
watei':  but  by  a  viu'orous  and  fortunate  swee[»  of  the 
rod  I  was  euabh'd  to  check  iiim  auain.  .V.uain  he 
sounded andau'ain  I'ushed  up.  down,  and  out  into  the 
river,  but  the  steel  W;is  securely  set.  and  lie  was 
compelled  at  last  to  succumb.  (Gradually  I  leeled 
him  in.  and  as  1  brouiiht  him  up  to  the  lank  he 
turned  on  his  si(h'  exhausted,     lie  welu'hed  twoand 


\J- 


■  VBIUP        IP         41 


I    f 


Its 


!iri: 


as,'  s 


I, 

r 


IrHf!^       1 


Pf !  ^ 

|r: 

i 

A.N  A.N.MDl  s  MUMKNT. 


^  U 


1 


)Mik 


■■& 


ANi>  oTiiKi;  iirNii.\<;  .\i>\  knitiik- 


•iC.T 


thiu'j'-quartei'  poiiiids  and  iiicasmvd  scvt'iitt'cii  inches 
ill  Icn.u'tli. 

1  look  two  oilicrs.  iieai'lv  as  laiuf.  out  of  llifsaiiK' 
liole.  and  llicii  j)i'0('t-('diim-  down  lil'ty  v.;i(ls.  I  saw 
a  ]ai;ue  colloiiwood  ii'cc  lyin^'  in  the  iniddlr  of  the 
.stre'ain  ^\■ll(M•p  it  had  loducd  and  liccn  sccni-ely 
anchored.  prol)al)ly  a  year  oi'  two  helnic.  The  cni'- 
rent  liad  scooiM'd  out  a  ureat  cavitv  ahont  iis  loots 
and  I  i"<'lt  sure  lher»^  iniist  be  a  u'iant  old  trout  lyin.u' 
anionii'st  tlieni.  hut  I  could  not  ivach  it  with  a  cast 
J'roin  the  shore.  To  alteini)t  to  \vade  lo  it  I  saw 
Avoiild  l)e  hazaiihuis,  foi'  t  he  channel  hetwetii  nie  and 
it  was  Avaist  deep  and  lan  with  all  the  velocity  of  a 
mill  laii.  ]>iit  what  daiiuvr  will  not  an  enthusiastic 
an,u'lei' bi'ave  when  in  [)ursuit  of  a  trout;  1  siarted 
in,  and  when  half  way  to  the  trunk,  would  ,uladly 
liave  I'etreated.  hut  was  actually  afraid  to  attempt 
to  turn  in  the  midst  of  this  curi'ent.  so  1  pi'essed  hir- 
ward,  linally  ivached  the  trunk  of  the  tree  and 
('liml)e(l  upon  it.  1  made  a  cast  u}»  near  the  root 
and  hooked  a  handsome  I'ellow,  bur  after  jilayinu' 
him  until  1  had  him  completely  under  control  and 
almost  ready  to  land,  the  liook.  w  lii«'h  had  been  but 
slightly  caiiii'ht.  ton^  out  and  he  drifted  down  the 
river  on  his  side. 

Another  ed'ort  secured  a  t  wo-i)f)utider.  and  failinu' 
to  (i-et  anv  fiirthei'  encouraucnieiit.  1  climl)ed  into  the 
icy  t(»rrent  and  with  uivat  diflicult\    aLiain   reached 

t.  t  ■ 

the  shore. 

A  little  furthei'  (low  11  1  sawanotherveiy  deep  p(»()l, 
into  which  a  small,  ureen  cortonw(»od  tree  had  lately 
i'allen  and  liun.uby  its  loots  to  the  bank.  I  felt  sure 
of  makinu' a  uood  catch  here,   for  the  hole  was  ten 


ft 

;; 

i 

i, 

4 

■  1 

i 

208 


(;KL'ISlN(iS    l.\    THE   CASCADES 


8  M  ■' 


i!Hi 


;■   "(: 


Miirfii!' 


^  :; 


I .' 


or  twelve  feet  deep,  and  the  driftwood  that  liad 
lodged  about  this  tree  afforded  excellent  cover  for 
the  wary  old  fellows  that  always  seek  such  secluded 
and  inixiregnable  strongliolds.  The  ily  settled  grace- 
fully on  the  surface  at  the  upper  end  of  the  pool,  and 
as  it  floated  listlessly  down  towai'd  the  drift,  ^Vest- 
l)ro(^k,  who  had  come  down  and  was  lishingfroni  the 
baidi  opposite,  said: 

"You'll  get  ;i  good  one  there,  sir.  That's  a 
splendid  hole  for  a  big  old  fellow." 

"  I  think  so;  but  he  seems  backward  a,l)out  coming- 
forward." 

"Maybe  that  blasted  bird  has  scared  him," 
said  he,  relV^rring  to  a  coot  that  floated  uncon- 
cernedly and  even  impudently  about  the  pool, 
eyeing  ns  Avithout  a  symptoni  of  fear,  but  evinc- 
inu"  the  liveliest  curiositv  as  to  who  and  what  we 
were. 

I  reeled  up  and  made  anothei'  cast  farther  out  on 
the  pool.  As  the  tiy  fell,  Mrs.  i!oot  swam  up  to  it 
as  il'  inclined  to  pick  it  up.  I  almost  lioped  she 
would,  for  1  should  reallv  have  enjoved  vauking her 
a  few  times.  But  she  thought  better  of  it,  and 
turned  away.  After  exhausting  all  my  ingenuity 
(m  this  pool,  and  luiding  it  impossible  to  induce  a 
rise,  I  laid  down  my  I'od,  picked  u[)  a.  rock,  and 
threw  it  at  the  ill-omened  bird,  whom  I  blamed  for 
mv  hick  of  success. 

Westbrook  took  his  cue  from  this  and  also  sent  a 
rock  after  her.  Both  made  close  calls  for  her,  but 
she  <»nly  scurried  about  the  livelier,  making  iioelVort 
to  get  away.  She,  aowever,  swam  behind  a  jnojec- 
tion  in  the  bank,  so  that  I  eould  not  see  her,  and  I 


T 


AND    ((TIlKli    IIIXlI.Nc;    Al)\  K.N  TC  i;i;s. 


•2m 


told  Westhrook  to  coiuiiiu..  iho  attuck  ami  drive 
her  out. 

He  picked  up  another  bowlder  as  laro-e  asaleaoue 
baseball  and  hurled  it  jit  her,  when  the  dullest  and 
most  "thudful"' sound  I  ever  l-i-aid,  accompanied 
by  a  faint  S(piawk,  came  from  behind  the  bank. 

''  Well,  bleach  my  bou'.^s  if  I  haven't  kilh-d  h<*i-:" 
said  AVestl)rook,  as  he  threw  down  bis  hat  and 
jumped  on  it. 

Sure  enough,  he  had  madea  bulPs-eye,  and  a  mass 
of  feathers  floated  off  downstream,  followed  by  the 
mortal  remains  of  the  deceased.  And  now  iIkm rout 
wei-e  jumping  at  these  stray  feathers,  and  ivtundng 
to  the  siege,  we  each  caught  a  good  one  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  jjooI. 

We  had  now  about  as  nuiny  hsh  as  we  caivd  to 
carry  to  camp,  and  staited  back  up  river.     On  our 
way   W(^   met   Lieutenant  'riiompson,  of  the    Third 
Infantry— also  a  member  of   our  party— who  had 
M't  camp   about   the  same    time    we  did,   and  we 
stopped  and  watched  him  tish  awhile.     The  lieuten- 
amit  is  a  veteran  tiy-lishernuin,  and   it  is  a  pleasui-e 
t(»  see  him  wield  his  graceful  little  split  bamboo  lod, 
and  handh^  the  large  vigorous  trout  found  in  this 
stream.     I   had  my  camei'a  with  nie  and  exposed  a 
l)late  on  him  in  the  act  of  playing  a  two-ixuindei- 
while  holding  a  suing  of  six  others  in  his  left  hand, 
and  though  I  did  not  give  it  qui'o  enougli  time,  it 
turned  out  fairly  well.     11. •  had  also  lijh'<|  Iils<-reel, 
and  on  our  return  to  cami)  we  liung  (,ur  lotal  catch,' 
with  several  otheivs  that  General  Marcy  had  taken,' 
on  a  pair  of  elk   horns  and  got  a  good  negative  of 
the  whoh»  outht. 


I  Ix 


© 


fh- 


)!    It 


if-il 


Ml- 


:i7o 


(;in'lS[NG,S    IN    THE   CASCADKS 


Uh 


Trout  oTow  to  prodigious  sizes  in  tlic  Bitter  Root, 
as  well  as  ill  several  otliei'  streanis  in  Montana, 
Wvoniiiiu'.  Idaho,  and  Wasliinutnii  Territory.  Tlie 
Indians  I'ret^nently  s[)ear  them  tliroiiuh  the  ii'e,  or 
take  them  in  nets,  some  of  tliese  weighmg  ten  to 
twelve  |»ounds  each,  liiit  these  large  ones  rarely 
rise  to  the  Hy,  However.  Colonel  (lihscm,  ol'  the 
I  .  S.  A.,  commanding  at  Fort  Missoula,  took  one 
on  a  tlv  that  weighed  nine  jxmnds  and  two  ounces, 
and  other  instances  have  been  recorded  hi  which 
they  have  been  taken  ])y  this  method  nearly  ashir^"^. 
They  have  I'lefjuently  been  taken  on  live  bait,  and 
liavt'  been  known  to  attack  a  small  trout  tliat  liad 
been  hooked  on  a  ily,  before^  he  could  be  landed. 

While  1  was  hunting  in  the  Bitter  Root  Mount- 
ains in  the  Call  of  "813,  a  carpenter,  who  was  building 
a  bridge  across  the  Bitter  Root,  near  Corvallis,  con- 
ceived the  idea  oi'  lishing  for  trout  with  a  set  hook. 
Me  rigged  a  heavy  hook  and  line,  l)ailing  with  a  live 
minnow,  tied  it  to  a  willow  that  overhung  oiieof  the 
deep  pools,  and  left  it  over  night.  By  this  means 
he  secured  three  of  these  monster  trout  in  a  wtek, 
that  weighed  from  nine  to  eleven  and  a  hali'  pounds 
ea<'h. 

The  supply  oi"  trout  in  the  Bitter  Root  seems 
to  be  almost  unlimited,  for  it  has  been  tislied 
extensively  for  ten  vears  iiast.  and  \et  a  man  may 
catch  twentv-tive  to  lifty  pounds  a  day  any  time 
during  the  season,  and  is  almost  sure  to  do  so  it'  he 
is  at  all  skillful  or  "lucky."  1  known  native 
Bittei'  Rooter  who,  during  the  snmniei  and  fall  of 
"84,  fished  for  the  market,  and  averaged  thirl y 
l)()unds  a  (hiv  all  throuuh  tiie  season,  which  he  sold 


I 


'  i 

.,.„.._- 

i 

' 

!     .      , 

h 


AM)  oTiiKK  iHNri.\(;  Ai»\i;.\rri;i'> 


:27l 


in  MissoiiJa at  twenty-live  cents  ;i  pound.  Ot'conise, 
the  majority  of  tiic  rancinnen  aloiiu'  tiir  sti'eani  (](» 
little  or  no  Hsiiino-,  hiit  the  otficers  and  nwu  at  Fort 
Mi^sso(Ua  do  tin  immense  amonnt  ol  it.  as  do  the  res- 
idents of  the  town  of  Missoida;  and  visitiii<i'  si)orts- 
meii  from  the  East  takt^  ont  hundreds  of  i)onnds 
every  season.  I'ut  the  streatn  is  so  lar^e  and  loiiu', 
and  its  net-work  of  tributaries  so  vast,  and  fuinisji 
such  fine  spawning- and  breeding- ^rounds,  that  it  is 
safe  to  say  there  will  be  trout  hei-e  a  century  hence. 
The  heathen  Chinee  has  never  been  pcrnutted  to 
l)ly  his  infamous  dynamite  cartridge  here,  oi-  in  any 
of  the  streams  of  this  \icinity.  as  he  has  lon.u'  l)ecn 
doin.U'  in  Colora(h).  Nevada,  and  elsewhciv,  and  this 
fact  alone  would  account  for  the  unimpaired  supjjly 
in  these  streams. 

The  rei)roductiv(^  ])ow(>r  of  the  mountain  trout  is 
equal  to  all  the  tax  likely  to  be  levied  a.uamst  it 
here  l)y  h',i;-itiniate  s])ortsmen,  and  if  (Ivnanntiim- 
and  netthiu'  are  prohibited  hereafter  as  heretofore, 
no  fear  need  be  felt  as  to  the  future  supply. 

The  market  fisherman  of  whom  !  sjioke  was  a 
faithfid  devotee  to  the  fly,  and  nevei'  woidd  use  any 
othe)'  lure.  A  white  or  uray  hackh'  was  his  favorite. 
He  used  a  stiff,  heavy  pole,  however,  about  ten  feet 
lon,<i',  (Mit  from  the  junules  that  iiTow  on  the  river  bot- 
tom, and  a  heavy  line,  a  foot  sliortej-.  with  double  uut 
for  attaching'  the  tiy.  He  fished  fiom  the  shoiv  or 
wa<led,  as  was  ll^'cessary  to  ivacii  the  best  water. 
He  cast  with  both  hands,  and  the  instant  tli^e  tly 
toiK'hed  the  water  he  would  laise  the  tip  so  that 
the  line  would  just  clear,  and  then  trail  or  skitter 
the  tiy  gently,  but  rapidly,  toward  him.     Tiius.  the 


I  5l 


li      111 
1     ;ii 


1 


f    i 


;  ! 


1,1 


m^ 


hv^ 


L  il 


I!:i: 


27-2 


('Kri.Sl.N(i>    IN     I'llK    (  AX  A1H> 


line  being  tiiiit,  when  tlie  ti.sli  arose  to  the  ily  he 
would  simply  hook  hiinseH'.  Then  he  was  igiioiuiii- 
ioiislv  '•  vaiiked,"  and  i^ther  landed  hiiih  and  drv 
on  mother  earth  or  in  the  lanchman's  uunny- 
sack. 

Although  devoid  of  sport  and  requiring  little  skill, 
it  was  the  most  elfective  nieihotl  of  iilling  a  "bag'" 
that  I  have  ever  seen  practiced.  1  have  seen  him 
take  ten  to  tweiitv-hve  trout  in  an  hour's  iishinu' 
and  not  miss  a  single  rise.  1  had  this  man  with  me 
on  a  hunting  trip,  and  whenever  we  came  within 
two  miles  of  a  trout  stream  our  table  was  sure  to  i)t 
supplied  with  Jin  abundance  of  fish, 

I  visited  Fort  Maginnis  in  September.  1S88.  and 
dui'ing  my  stav.  Capt.  F.  II.  Ilathawav  kindly 
invited  me  to  spend  a  day  trouting  with  him  on  Big 
Spring  creek,  a  beautiful  stream  that  flows  out  of 
the  Snowy  Mountains  about  twenty-live  miles  from 
the  post.  We  left  tlie  captain's  (pmrters  at  noon, 
comfortably  seated  on  his  l)uckboard,  while  Sam, 
Fisliel,  andl^ick  Thouiasrode  their  horsesand  drove 
a  pack-mule,  which  carried  a  part  of  our  i)rovisions, 
tlie  remainder  Iving  cai'ried  on  the  buckboard. 

We  covered  tht^  twentv-hve  nnles  by  six  o'clock, 
camping  at  the  base  of  the  Snowies,  within  two  miles 
of  the  source  of  the  creek,  which  source  is  a  cluster 
of  large  cold  springs.  We  pitched  our  tent  on  the 
bank  of  the  creek,  where  it  murmured  sweet  music 
in  its  course  over  the  iiigged  boltom  ninl  bdled  us 
in'o  (puet  and  ref|es|}|||u  sleep  with  its  rliytl\mical 
sounds.  When  \\V.  HUuke  the  next  moiiiiug  the 
foot-hills  all  alxmt  us  uijsteni^d  with  frost,  and  the 
high  peaks,  three  or   lolll'  Hllles  away,  were  draped 


T 


AM)    (•TIlKi;    lliXTiv,.    .\  DV  KVi  T  IIKS. 


'JVA 


in  a  ii-.iul.M,r  .si„,tl,.ss  wl,it<..  wliicl,  il,r. St, .nil-kill- 

ilJKl  spiVild  up,,!,   tlKMM  a   few  (hlVS  Il-O. 

NotwitlistaiHliiiotlic  IntHiiess'of  tlln  S,.;,s,,„  ;,  iVw 
inusquiroes  Ix-aii  to  sino-  j,l,(,ut  „ur  .mis  ms  s,,,,,,  .,s 
til''  smi  ..amp  iip.  Fis|„.|.  wi,,,  was  lull  ol'  dn.ll 
good  iiaruic.  ohscrvcd  tlieMii 

"  >Vel],  look  here/'  hr  said,  as  li<.  l)n,k,.  th,.  i,v  in 
the  wafer  pail  and  di].,,,.,!  („„  j,  l,,sinriil  to  wash  in 
'*!  11  I)."  dou-oned  if  Ihmv  aint  a  lot  of  tli.'s..  m.-aslHy 
musqiiitoes  hnzzin-  around  here  with  hnlFalo  ov,.r- 
coats  on." 

The  keen  mountain  air  at  this  l„w  tempciatiire 
and  the  oraiid  seeueiy  with  which  w,.  w.mv  sur- 
rounded, conihin.'.l  to  sharpen  our  appetites.  an<l 
our  breakfast  hesi.h^i  rousin-  eai'M.-iiiv  wascn  joyed 
asoidya  meal  can  he  enjoyed  amid  such  surround- 
ings. As  soon  as  the  .sun  had  risen  hii-h  enoii-di 
to  banish  the  tVost  and  wai-in  the  air  sli'ohily,  tTie 
gmss  all  a))out  us  was  set  in  motion  bv  thousands 
of  grasshoppers  who  gamboled  playiullV,  in  oider, 
apparently,  to  warm  up  their  benunibed  limbs 
and  get  ill!  appetite  for  breakfast.  All  hands  then 
turned  out  ami  harvested  a  goodly  supj)ly  of  them, 
for  we  had  been  advised  that  the  t'rout  in  thatstreanl 
would  not  take  a  fly  so  late  in  the  season. 

Then  we  proceeded  to  busim'ss;  th.'  captain  and 
Bick  fishing  up  the  stream  and  I  down,  while  Sam 
took  his  rille  and  went  acioss  the  hills  in  search  of 
game.  The  stream,  where  we  started  in,  was  not 
more  than  three  to  i\mv  feet  ^^•ide  and  two  feet  deep 
in  the  deepest  holes,  yet  jit  the  lii-st  cast  1  hooked  :i 
trout  that  after  a  few  vigorous  plun-es  took  the 
l)arb  off  my  hook  and  departed.     1  put  on  a  new 


I ,' 


18 


274 


("lMI>i:>(.>    I.\    Till-:    (ASC  ADKS 


'^i« 


El 


I  s; 


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© 


out*  5111(1  liad  Ix'ttci'  luck  in'xt  time.  Tor  in  MiiotlnT 
holcji  I't'wi'ods  riirtlicrdowu  I  look  out' that  wciulit'd 
ii  ])(iiiii(l  and  a  liall'. 

Ill  llif  iiicaiitinu' ilic  ('ai»iaiii  s\\<  nicd  to  iiu',  and 
lookiiiLi,'  up  llic  stream  I  saw  him  ilisiiiayin.n"  mm  of 
about  the  saiiH' si/r.  We  cacli  I'ollowcd  our  courses 
and  did  iiol  nu'et  auaiii  Tor  some  lioiiis.  wlicn  the 
(';i[»tain  caiiK' down  loscc  how  I  was  nvttinn"  on.  ih' 
iiad  t'injit  and  I  had  six.  the  avcrauv  wciaht  ol" 
wiiich  was  ovci-  a  poiiiKl  <'ach.  Il(^  relievcfl  nie  of 
my  h»ad  and  ivturut'd  locamp,  and  I'roin  that  time 
on  did  Imt  litth'  lishiiiu'  hiinst'li'.  i)ivf«'n'in,i;',  in 
the  fullness  of  Ids  uimiitous  nature,  to  devote  the 
most  of  his  time  to  accompanying!,'  uie,  showini;- 
me  the  most  favoral)h'  i»oints,  exulting  in  my  suc- 
cess, ami  in  every  way  possible  i)i'ouiotinii' uiy  com- 
fort. Whenever  he  left  nie  for  a  short  time  he  would 
seud  one  of  his  men  to  take  my  tisli  to  camp,  dress 
I  hem,  and  do  anvthinu'  and  evervthing  else  i)ossi])le 
for  me. 

1  llshed  down  the  creek  nenrlv  two  miles  duriim- 
the  (hiy,  going  over  parts  of  the  stream  two  or  three 
times,  not  ceasing  from  the  fascinating  spore  long 
enough  to  even  eat  a  lunch  tJiat  I  carried  in  my 
pocket.  Nor  did  I  turn  my  stei)s  toward  camp  until 
it  l)ecanie  so  dark  that  the  lish  would  no  longer  rise. 
Then,  when  I  started  campward.  I  met  Dick  coming 
with  an  extra  saddle  horse  which  the  cai)tain  had 
kindly  sent  for  me  to  ride. 

®  After  supper  came  the  always  charming  social 
intercourse  around  the  camp-lire,  the  exchange  of 
personal  notes  of  the  day's  sport — tlie  experience 
meeting,  so  to  si)eak.     Xo  one  had  nijsgivings  to 


®' 


® 


T 


.^M>  oTiii  i;  IK  \n\<,  ai»\i:m(i:i> 


'27:y 


l-HC()i'(|,s()r;ir:isili..  lisliiiinu;,scMii(Vin,.,l.     Mnrli  li:i,l 

♦  'lijoy.Ml   liis  Tiill  iiir.isiiiv  ,,r  i|„.  o|-;,ii,l  ,sp..||,  ;is  u:,s 

•  •vid.'iic.-d  l.y  111.'  (lisj.l.-iy  <.r  tliH  s.'\.i;il  siiiiiMsol' 
s;iliii()ii-<'()l(,rr(l  |)(.;iiiti,.s  wliicli  Iniiin.  ;ii(.iiimI  tlin 
camp-lin'.  Tlinvw.is  11..1  n  liimvilitii;- in  tli.' ciifiie 
catch.     Xo  (.11..  |i;i,l  ciiimlii  ii  ir,,iit   diiriiiM' tlKMliiy 

of    If'SS  (liail    folll'  oillHVS     ill    Wriulil,   ;iii(l  v.'iy   few  (A' 

that  size  Jiad  l.ccn  takm.  Tjir  m.ijoiiiy  nf  tii.-m 
raii.wcd  l)t't\V('rii  linir  ;i  j„,iiiid  -uui  two  ])()imds.  ;iiid 

tllc    llllinlxTS    Wciv   (.Illy    liiiiiird    l.y    the   ailK.llllt    ot' 

Wdi'k  <-ach  had  don.'.  .My  I'li.'uds,  hriii--  ivsidcnrs 
and  accustom. 'd  lo  this  kind  of  spoit  wh.'u.'vci' 
tlit'v  choos..  t.,  enjoy  it,  had  not  cared  lo  hsh  all 
(hiy,  aii.l  coiis.'(|ii.'iitly  ha.l  not  taken  so  many  as  I, 
hnr  liad  taken  all  they  want.'d. 

The  oidy  man  in  th.'  paily  wlio  had  anythiiii;-  to 
re.uTet  in  the  (hiy's  exp.'ii.'iKv  w;is  Sam."  lie  Imd 
.started  :i  laruc  bull  elk  eaily  in  the  moiiiino-  .,n(l 
had  I'ollow.'d  him  several  ndle.s,  hut  had  not  been 
able  to  oet  a,  lavorabh'  shot,  thoiiuh  he  had  twice 
cau,^•ht  siuht  of  him.  We  all  symi.arhized  deeply 
with  Jiim  in  his  misfoitune,  for  Sam  is  an  exi)ert 
shot  with  the  rille,  and  il'  he  ha.l  everdi-awn  a.  bead 
on  the  yame  we  should  have  had  elk  steak  on  our 
table  ut  the  next  in.'al,  sui'(>. 

We  broke  camp  early  th."  next  morning-  iind  pre- 
pared to  stai't  for  home,  but  d.'clded  to  iish  (h)wn 
the  creek  till  near  noon  l)efore  leavinu'  it.  W%'  drove 
down  about  a  iinle,  wh.'n  I  alighted  and  started  in, 
the  others  (listri])uting-  themselves  at  other  jtoints 
along  the  stream.  The  trout  r.^se  as  rapidly  and 
ganiily  as  cm  the  pivvious  day,  and  I  soon  had  a 
load  in  my  creel  that  pulled  ("lowii   nncomfortablv. 


il 


® 


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s> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


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1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


Um  12.5 

•  50    "^^  HIHsSi 

J"  1^  ii 

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1.4 


12.2 


2.0 


1.8 


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Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


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-^       '<^<s 


V 


■^''  .^^f^ 


;\ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  873-4503 


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1 


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27(5 


ciM'isiNiis  IN   I'm:  (  .\>(Ai)i:s 


Ainoiiu"  tlit'iu  w:is  ono  oldiiiiu'-sitot  which  liinicd  thf3 
scales  at  two  aiul  a  (luaitcr  ixmnds  al'tciliavini-lH'cn 
out  of  the  water  over  two  lioiirs.  He  measured 
seventeen  and  a  half  inches  in  leniitli. 

Tile  cai)tain  told  me  of  a  certain  deej)  hole  where 
lie  said  an  old  pione.n'  made  his  hea<l(iiiaiteis,  who 
had  taken  olf  two  hooks  and  leaders  for  him  on  two 
different  days  durinu'  thesumniei-.  When  1  reached 
the  hole  I  recoiiiiized  it  in  a  moment  bv  the  cai)tain's 
description.  It  was  in  a  short  bend  or  tinule  of  the 
creek.  On  theo])]K)site  side  from  wheic  1  stood,  and 
on  the  lowi'r  an,iil«^  of  the  scjiiaie,  the  channel  had 
cut  a  deep  lujle  umh'r  an  ()verhan,uin,ii- bank,  which 
was  covered  with  willows.  These  di'o;)}»ed  ov<'r  the 
water  and  shaded  it  nicelv.  There  was  a  slight 
eddy  there  and  the  sui'face  of  the  water  was  llecked 
with  bits  of  white  IVnini  which  came  from  the  rai)ids 
just  above.     What  a  paradise  for  a  wary  old  trout  I 

I  stopi)ed  about  forty  feet  above  the  hole  and  put 
on  one  of  the  largest  hojjpers  in  my  box;  then  I 
reeled  out  ten  or  fifteen  feet  of  line  and  cast  into 
the  foot  of  the  rapid.  As  the  current  straiiihtened 
out  my  line  I  reeled  olf  more  of  it  and  still  moie  until 
it  floated  gently  and  gracefully  down  into  the  dark 
eddy,  and  when  within  two  feet  of  the  edge  of  the 
bank  there  was  a  whirl,  a  surge,  a  break  in  the 
water,  as  if  a  full-grown  beaver  had  been  suddenlv 
frightened  from  his  sun  bath  on  the  surface  and  had 
started  for  the  bottom.  1  saw  a  long,  broad  gleam 
of  silvery  white,  my  line  cut  through  the  water,  and 
the  old-timer  started  for  his  bed  under  the  bank. 

I  struck  at  the  proper  instant,  and,  bending  my 
little   split  bamboo    almost    double,    biought  him 


ANu  oniKi;  iirNiiN(.   ai»\  i:m  ri:i;s.         217 


I 


up  with  :i  slioit  tinn.  llf  (l.-irtt'd  up  tlic  stivnin  a 
I't'w  IVt't,  and  a.uaiu  imiiiMu- sipiaiv  al)()Ut  siarl<'(l  I'oi- 
liis  (leu.  I  simhhrd  liiiii  auaiii.  This  time  lie  shot 
<h)\vn  tht'  cirt'l-i,  and,  tiiniiiiu'.  made  anolhci"  dive 
for  his  iiidiiii;'  ])la('«'.  Auaiii  I  uave  him  tlic  Ixitt, 
but  this  time  h«'  was  dt't«'riiiin<'d  to  fr«*('  liimsrlf, 
and  with  a  Irantic  piunu't'  ln'  t<»i«'  tile  lioolv  from  liis 
inoutli  and  disappeared  in  ins  (hirk  retreat. 

My  lieart  sank  vvitiiiii  lue.  wlicn  I  realized  tliat 
lie  was  o-one.  He  was  trnlv  a  monster,  fullv  two 
feet  lonu',  and  1  tliiniv  would  have  w^-ighcd  four 
pounds  oi-  over.  I  rech^d  up  and  made  two  or  three 
more  easts  in  the  same  hole,      liis  mate,  a  conielv- 

« 

IcMtkinu'  fellow,  but  not  neiirly  so  laru«',  came  out 
once  and  smelt  of  the  bait  but  declined  to  take  it. 
lie  had  evidently  seen  eiiouuh  to  convince  him  that 
it  was  u((t  the  kind  of  a  dinuei-  he  was  lookinu' 
for.  I  fished  down  the  cieck  for  an  hour  and  then 
returned  and  tried  the  old  IV'llow  auain.  but  he  had 
not  yet  i'oi-u'otten  his  recent  set  to  with  me,  and 
refused  to  come  out.  I  presume  he  is  still  tln're, 
and  will  probably  icjiiii  for  some  years  t(>  come, 
the  tei'ror  of  tackle  owners,  Uldess  someone  gets 
a  hook  lirmly  fastened  in  his  jaw,  and  has  tackle 
■iiilficiently  (h-rrickdike  to  land  him:  and  whoever 
that  lucky  individual  may  be.  1  con.uratulate  him  in 
advance.  My  tackle  would  have  held  him  if  I  had 
been  foitiinate  enouuh  to  get  the  p;()[)ei'  ciiH'Ji  on 
him,  and  the  oidy  thing  I  have  to  regret  in  think- 
ing of  the  trii>.  is  that  I  was  not  so  foi'tunate. 

We  had  enough,  however,  without  him.  Wetook 
liome  forty-eiiijii  trout  that  weighed,  when  di'«'.ssed, 
sixtv  pounds,  and  of  all  the  manv  days  i  have  spent 


i>7S 


riM  i-i\(:>  IN  Tin;  cAst  ai»i:s 


;'  .1 


■,.  i 


lisliiiiii,' ill  the  Miiiiiy  yt'Mis  loiiu,' uoiic,  I  iicvt'i- cnjovc*! 
any  Mioiv  iiitriiscly.  iicvcr  li;i<i  ^iraiidt'i'  sport  lluni  in 
tlu'sc  two  (luys  nil  Wiis  Sjiiiiig  creeiv. 

It  liJis  l)«HMi  stated  that  tli.'  niomitaiii  ticit  lacks 
tlic  ;^anit'  (jiialitics  of  our  Kasteni  l)rooiv  trout,  I 
lia\«'  not  round  it  so.  Tlicv  ar»'  uuitt'  as  uaiiiv,  as 
vicious  in  tluMi-  ligliti n,u',  and  as  destructive  to  line 
tackle  as  the  lu'ooix  trout,  the  only  pei'ceptihle  dil'- 
I'erence  beini;- (hat  tliev  do  Hot  liniit  so  loll <J.  Thev 
yield,  however,  only  after  a  stubborn  i-esistance, 
suflicieiitly  i)rolonged  to  challenge  the  admiration 
of  any  anuler.  1  have  cauniit  a  number  of  two  and 
three  pounders  that  re([uired  very  careful  and 
patient  handling'  for  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
before  they  could  be))rouuht  to  the  lamlinu'  net. 

There  are  various  other  streams  aloni;'  the  line  of 
the  Northern  i^acilic  Hailroad  which  aitVud  almost 
eciually  as  line  sport  as  the  Hitler  Hoot,  and  s(»nie 
of  them  that  are  even  more  pictuiesipie  and  beauti- 
ful. In  fact,  nearly  every  stream  reached  by  the 
road,  betw»'en  Hilliiius  and  Puii'et  Sound,  t«'eins  with 
these  graceful  l)eauties.  J'y  leaving'  the  road  at 
almost  anv  i)oint  on  the  Hockv  ^fountain  or  Peiid 
d'Orielle  Divisions  and  imshing  back  into  the 
mountains  twenty  to  one  hundred  miles,  the  eiiter- 
l)rising  anuler  may  lind  streams  whose  banks  have 
seldom  been  jjiofaned  by  the  foot  of  a  while  man: 
wliere  ;in  artilicial  lly  has  seldom  or  never  fallen 
upon  the  si>arkling  blue  waters,  and  yet  where  mill- 
ions of  these  beautiful  creatures  swarm,  ready  to 
rusli  iii)on  anythin.u'  that  reaches  the  surface  of 
their  element  beariiiu'  the  least  reseniblanc»»  to  their 
natural  I'ood.   with  all   the  fearless  enthusiasm   of 


AM)    oTMKU    IIINTI.NS    ADN  K.N  ir  Kl>.  27'J 

unttiiiitcd  and  univstiiiincd  niitmv.  In  tlicH"  wildfi' 
I'cuioiis  i!i.' toiii-ist  will  ;ils(i  lind  IVt'ciiiciit  use  for  his 
rillt".  I'oi'  ,'lk,  iH'iir.  d«M'i-,  inoiiiitidn  slit>e]i.  ;nul  (»ili<'i 
liii.uv  ounic  mny  yet  he  foMiid  in  reasonable  (juan- 
tities  ill  all  .such  undisturlH'd  rasriiesse.s. 


t^--  ■' 


'"CO, 


fi 


i: 
'■I 


\V 


HI 
pi 


li 


CHAPTER  XXVTT. 


DKKIl    IIIMIN*;     IN     WISCONSIN. 

OHTIIKUX  WISCONSIN  is  nnv  viist  and 
iiliiiost  iiiibrokt'ii  (ItM-r  ran^t".  It  is  |m'1i- 
('ti'attMl  by  st'Vt'ial  lailioads,  aloiiu'  tlx'^ 
%  iiiiMH'diatt'  liih'Sdl'  which  ar»' ii  few  small 
i.;niis  and  some  fair-siz»'d  lownsand  villaufs; 
i)ut  on  goini;' a  IVw  niih's  hack  IVoni  ihcst; 
loads,  in  almost  any  direction,  one  passes 
.  the  conlines  of  civilization  and  enters  a 
:\  wilderness  that  is  lnokeii  oidy  by  the  iiii- 
melons  loiigliiL:'  camps,  and  tliese  as  ;i  rule 
are  occu[)ied  only  in  winter.  Thonsands  of  acres 
of  lliese  pine  lands  have  heen  cho[»i)e(l  over, 
and  the  old  slashinus.  having-  lirown  up  to  l)iiish, 
hrainhles,  and  briars  of  various  kinds,  fnrnish 
excellent  <'over  and  fet'diiiii'  uroniiils  for  Cernis 
'  'lr<ji iiiuiius. 

Trne,  it  is  diflicnit  to  sec  the  uame  at  any  u'reat 
distance  in  these  thickets,  nnless  the  hunter  take  his 
stand  on  a  iiigh  stump  or  log  and  wait  until  the  deer 
come  in  sight.  This  is  a  fav<n-ite  and  very  successful 
method  of  hunting  with  many  who  know  how  to 
ch()(>se  location  and  time  of  day.  But  adjacent  to 
these  slashings  are  usually  larye  tra<'ts  of  oi)en 
woods,  fretpieiitly  hardwood  ridges,  through  which 

C'SO) 


A.\I>    nlliKK    lit  MINi,    AI>V  KNTI' IM>. 


281 


ta..  .,,iMr  i.Mssrs  i,t  int-n-Mls  u  hil,.  nicvin-  horn  one 
l-'.lm-,i.T,„ni.lto:in..tli..r.  In  s,,,-!,  |,M':,liti,.s:,  ,1,.,.,. 
iiiiiy  1...  ,s,.,.,i  :,t  M  <'nnsi.l,.i;,l.|,.  .Jisi;,,,,...  and  >l|.,Is 
ai«'  olr.Mi  t:ik«'n  ;ir  lAo  to  -joo  yards. 

I  ivni('nilM'r,„i.'(,rmy  liist"  nips  \n  fli...s<.  j.,infin'- 
^iT.Muids.   nuny    y,,,,s  ai;-...  h.ln.v    |    kn-u-    l.nu    to 
Mi.-ak  on  Ili..,iiani...  and  Ind'oiv  I  |,ad  uain.-d  sn(liri,.,it 
'••""'■"lot'  n.y  n.MT..stol„.  .-il.l..  to  stop  a  d...,- u  |,il.. 
|;"'ltinu-ov..r  a   lalh-n  tiv..  tnink,  niniiim- ,s.,dd..nlv 
'':;•"  l<'tt  to   ndit;,ndr/,..  r.r..,.asauaivoIdl.,„.k 
^^dl   liv,p„.Mtlyd„  wli,.„  fl.M.iim'   r,,,Mi  a   jinntn-      I 
Mopped   Mt   M    hot.'l    in  M.mll,    ,M.   tl...  Wi>ron.in 
\.-di,.y   Division  or   tin.  Cl.i.-aoo,   Miluank.M-  .v   Si 
l.'iiil    K:nhvay.   and.    Iiavi..-  j,,nn.-d    so,M..(l,i„.-   of 
"'""••"'"••'  <•!■   Hi...  smToundin-   <-ou,itiv  hv  a   liastv 
tnunpinil...  art..,n..on.  I  uoi   „p  th.  n.xi"  ,„onnn"..- 
:'"d  start. -d  at   lonr  o*.-lork  I.,  what  s....n,...l  to  1...  '^ 
'■'^■•"•''•'•*  l''''<'"  "I"  UTonn.l.     Uydnvliul,,    I   wa.  on 

t  .|'.nnrn.i,,ora  ]arn..slash,i.at.sin.;.l,..i,,^H.opp,.d 
""•/'="'  '"""*"•  '•^"''  ■'""'  'li..n  oTown  up  to  hnisli 
!<Hd  u-....ds.  Tiu.n.  u..r,.  „i:iny  l,la.-k..n..,l  tinidvs  of 
tiv..s  lyino..v..,-yui„.n..  and  so.n..  still  sra.i.lin.-  that 

l';''l '..■.'n  s.-oivh..d  i.n.l  roast...!  iinh..  o-,,,,t  nmlla-ra- 
tion  tlmt  ha.l    su-,.pt  ov..,-  tli..  counriv.  hut   ha.l Hot 
""■•I  ""tin-ly  ,.o„snin...|.     Thes..  iati;.,-.  stripp-d  .,r 
l>M.k   an.     lin.hs.   lo..k...l    lik.    o-iooniy    nH.n,„M..nts 
J.lMn.d    ih..,v    t..    niaik    tl...  n-stinu-   phi.vs  of    tli.-ir 
lii'pl-'ss   t..ilous.   aiKJ    ih.'  whoN'  asp,.rr  ..f  tli-   laii.j 
sjMiH.Jii  th,.  ,o-,ay  ..r  dawn  ums  u,.i,d  an.l  cliillv  in 
tl"'   .•xf.v.n...     Tl,..,v   uas   s,.a.v..lv  a  luvath    .d' air 
srirrm-  :in<l  l,y  list. -inn-  int.-ntlv  I  <..,ul.l   h.-ir  th.. 
:  >.stlin,u-  of  dry  U.av<.s  an.l  tl...  .Kvasiotml  snappi,,.- 
ol   tu-io-s   1,1    various  diivctious,   that  indi..at..d   11.7. 


t   ill 


:'f- 


'  SI 

■  It 


P! 


i  ; 


■;  > 


^11 


2.S-J 


cunsiNiis  i\  Tin:  c\s(  Ai»i:s 


neiir  i)ivsHn('(M)f  thn  u;im"  jind  s»'t  iiiv  blood  tiiiuiiim' 
an<l  my  ihtvcs  t  witcliiiiu'. 

So  sdoii  ;is  tli('i'«*  \v;is  siitlici*'!!!  li.ulit  to  sliowilie 
front  siuiit    of   iii\  rill«'   ;m;iiiist  ji.  iir:i\' stmiii)  liftv 

VMl'ds    ilWMV.     I    Stilltcil    to    lllO\<'.    ilS    Clllltioiislv    IIS    I 

klU'W  liow.  to\v;ii'd  ji  <'liiMi[»  of  w  ild-('li(M'iy  l)Usli«'8 
tlmt  I  had  s<m'1i  iiioviiiu' and  I'roin  w  liicli  caiiM' sliulit 
luit  siis[)icioiis  sounds.  WIhmi  wiilun  llnity  yards 
of  ir  I  srei>iMMl  on  a  stick  that  snapi^'d,  and  simnl- 
tain'ously  witli  tlu*  sound  a  luoiisttT  buck  h'apt'(l 
hiuli  in  tlic  air.  and  hmdinn'  twenty  I'cct  away, 
uttei'cd  a  shiill  whistle  and  stoi>])cd.  with  his  iit-ad 
thrown  up.  to  li'v  and  h)catc  tlic  danuci-.  I  broiiulit 
]ny  ritlc  to  my  shouich'i'  with  a  convulsive  jerk, 
l)oin1ed  it  at  him  and  lii'ed  without  thiiikini;-  of  the 
siuhts.  and  of  course  scored  an  i^nonunious  nuss. 

Well,  I  wish  every  fi'iend  F  have  on  eartli  could 
have  l)e(  n  tliei'e  at  that  moment.  That  whole  tra<'t 
of  coiinti'v.  as  far  as  I  couhl  set\  senmed  ;div«*  with 
deer.  ThrashI  Crashl  Biunpety-biinipl  Phew! 
Phew! 

Tiier«»  was  junipinu'.  thrashinc:  thron.uh  the  ))rush, 
whistlinu',  llippin.u'  and  tlappin.u' of  whit(^  llaus,  and 
the  air  seenie(l  fidl  of  .iilisteninu'  ^Tay  coats.  Tin* 
buck  1  liad  shot  at  sailed  av.ay,  and  was  so(»n  fol- 
h>wed  in  his  1ii«>ht  bv  a  doe  and  two  fawns.  .V  (h)e 
and  fawn  went  in  another  diiection,  thiee  fawns 
in  another,  two  does  and  a  buck  in  another,  and  so 
on  ad  iujiiiitmn. 

\  stood  there,  like  a  niile-p«)sr  by  the  roadside, 
nntil  they  liad  all  vanished,  foru'ettin.u'  that  1  had 
other  cartridu'es  in  mv  belt.  Finally  I  recovered 
<x)nscionsness  and  beyan  to  wonder  where  some  of 


ill- 


AM)    (.TllKi:    III   Nils,,    Al)\  KMIIIKS 


'J^;i 


thos.Ml,...IMV()Ml.l  Stop.  ir  I  rnuhl  ,,„|v  n.-t  :,„nl!„.,- 
<*ii:m.v  Midi  ;,s  I  lin.l  ,,11  i|,:,t  l.iick.  u.,iil(ln"l  I  (|.,uii 
Imii  ill  liii..  stylrj  I  u.Mil.l  ,,l;,„t  :,  |,„i|,.,  j„  ,,„, 
(viiirr  of  lii.N   sli(.iil.l,.rii...\t   lim.'  smv.     Xn  .lim.'- 

IIOV.-I  srollt  WMSPV.M'  IIK.IV  Illl.'ITilio.  i„  |,is:,i„|  l|,;ni 
I     would     Ih.      ir     I      (.,,1,1,1      ,,„|y     nvt      UUi^llu'V     Jlilll.         | 

stJii-t,.,l  on  t,,\v;ir<l  tlu-  top  ,,1'  :i  I'uh^r.  ov.-i-  u  iii,-|i  ,„„. 
of  111,,  liiruv  bucks  liMd  (Iisui.i„':inM|.  mii,!  <,u  r.'ticliiui.- 
n  I  s:,\v  liiiM.  (,!■  >,,iii,.  ,,f|„.,.  ,,11...  jusr  l)..|iin,l  mi  ,,;ik 
^Tiil.  ,,u  th,.  ,,i,i.,,sif,.  si,I,.-j)ill.  I  i:iis..,l  nivntl.'  :iii,l 
took  ciin'ljil  Mini  !iiis  tiiM.'.  I.iif  \v:is  s,,  u.'rvous  tli:it 
1  could  not  ll,,Id  th,.  JH'Md  ,,u  him.  ;ill,l  \vil,Ml  I  i.ull.'d 
Ik'  mi:i(1,'  :iiioth,'i'  s,'i-i,.s  ,,1'  th,,s..  ,l;iiiiiu-  h.^ps  tliiit 
soon  r:im,",l  him  out  ,,r  si-lit.  I  iir,.,l  ;,  s,m-oii,1  shi.t 
iir  liim  MS  h,' \\>'iit.  hut  wiih  n,,  l„.ti,.i.  ivsult  than 

the  lil'st. 

1  now  ci'ossf-d  ,,v,.r  t,,  th<'r:irtli,T,'dov,,l'tli,'sI:ish. 
and.  s,vin,u'  no  nioiv  uani,..  Mait.vl  thr,,uuha  l„„|y  ,,r 
hir,y,'i,im's  toanold  I.iini  thai    I   ha.l  Im-.-u  tohl'lay 
aniiJetotliHeast.     I  was  walkin-hum.'dl  v  ihioiidi 
tins  om^i  timl),M'.  not   cxpfM-tinn-  t,,  s,.,.  o-;nn,..  and 
stppp,.d  up,,na  laruv  I,)-.  wh,.n  a  ,h,,' and  tw,,  lawns, 
that  liad  been  lyin-  ,|,,\vn  in  the  t,,],  of  a  I'allcii  tiv,-' 
jinniu'd  and  ran  a(T,,ss  in  IV,,nt  <,r   m,..   (.llVMin- ail 
ex«-,']l,.ntoi,i„,itunity  for  a-ood  sh,,t  to  liav  kill,.,! 
all  thiv,.onh,^ni.    islun-  l.'ad  al't.T  th,.ni  at  a  Iiv,.|y 
rate,  lirinii-  tiv,' ,,)•  six  sh,,ts  l„.r,,iv  ih.'v  ii,,t   cut  of 
Huht,  but<li,l   no  rurtlHM- harm  than  t,,"a,vi,h.ntal]y 
dip  an  ear  oir  ,m,,'  of   the  fawns  elos,_.  d„u-n  t,,  it's 
head. 

After  they  weiv,n„,i,.  j  ^v,.nt  and  i.icked  ui,  this 
troi)hyand  sto])ped  to  nieditat,' on  my  ilidiick.  or 
want  of  skill.     I  then  remembered  that  thouiih  I  had 


f  1 


l!i 


: ; 


I  ' 


=1 


1  ■ 


m 


•isi 


(•i:i  is;n(.s  in    iiii;  (  ascaius 


sri'ivcli  t(»  hold  the  I'lOIlt  siiilll  on  one  oi- the  other 
ol' thedt't-r  ;it  »';ich  s!iot  Mftt'i'  the  liist.  I  had  t'litirt'lv 

• 

I'oi'uottfn  lo  look  ihicniiih  thf  notch  in  thr  icar 
siulit.  ( 'hauiiiK'd  and  mortilit'd  heyond  all  power 
to  (h'scrihr.  I  trndu't'd  ah»nii"and  linally  rearhtMl  the. 
Inirn  I  was  in  scaicli  ol".  The  snn  Avas  now  hiuli 
in  the  licavcns  and  sliininu-  hiiuiitly.  so  tliat  tlic 
uanic  was  no  lonii^r  on  Toctt.  l>ni  had  sonuhl  the 
st'(  iusion  of  various  hits  of  drnse  covci-  and  lain 
down.  >ry  only  chance  for  a  shot  was,  theiefoie.  in 
walkinu'  them  iij).  whicli  1  proceeih'd  to  (h>.  The 
luiish  was  dense  all  over  this  Imrn.  so  tlial  1  could 
raiely  see  twenty  yards  in  any  direction,  yet  1  lM»i>ed 
auainst  hope  for  another  chance.  I  was  <lesiiei'ate 
over  the  disui'acefid  failures  I  had  made,  and  yet  I 
knew  I  could  shoot.  I  had  killed  cpiantities  of  Muall 
uame  with  the  same  rille  I  was  then  iisinu' and  had 
killed  one  deer  years  auo  with  an  old  muzzle  loader. 
I  coulil  always  depend  ui)on  making  a  uood  fair 
scoie  at  the  tari;'et  at  'ioo  yards,  or  even  loniicr 
rannes.  and  yet  1  had  shot  away  a  dozen  cartridues 
this  niorninuat  (h'er.  some  of  which  wei-e  standing 
within  it  few  yards  of  me,  and  had  not  stopped  one 
of  them.  1  was  furious,  and  (U'terndiied  that  the 
next  shot  sliould  tell. 

I  walked  down  an  old  louii'iim-road  several  hundred 
vards.  hoi)inu'  that  some  belated  traveler  miuiit  be 
found  crossing  or  walking  \:\  i:.  I»ut,  failing  in  this,- 
I  turned  out  and  walked  along  the  crest  of  a  ridge, 
htoking  (h)wn  hoth  sides  of  it.  Struggling  through 
briers  and  brush,  malvi^m"  a  good  deal  of  noise,  nna- 
voi(hibly,  T  still  failed  to  J'lnip  a  deer  until  1  left 
the   ridge   and  started    toward  n  "draw''  in  which 


ANI>    nlliKK    III  N'llNi.    Al»\  IM  I   i:i>. 


w:is  ii  sm;ill  nifiidow  <>r  sloiiuli.  WIhmi  IimH'  w.-iy 
<l(»\vnilit'  liill  I  cMiiif  In  ;i  lirut'  stiiiiii>.  :•'"•"'  l*"i'" 
r«M*t  liiiili,  I'rom  wliicli  :i  live  li:i(|  hfrii  nit  wlim  lli»' 
siicw  was  «1«'«')».  1  cliiiilMMl  ii]H)ii  tlii^  to  take  a  look 
at  tlw  siiiidiiinliim-  roiiiitiy.  As  I  did  so.  a  1mi',u«* 
Imck  tliat  liad  hccii  ))c»'ii  lyiiiu' just  Itclou  it.  sinaiiij,' 
I'roin  his  lied  ami  l»omid»'d  away  thioimli  tlic  1>iu«n|i. 
siiouitiii- iit'ic  and  tlit'ira  lla^li  of  Ids  wldtf  llau  and 
a  ulcaiii  of  his  niajcstic  aiitlcis.  hut  not  fiKumh  nl" 
lli>>  l)odv  to  shoot  at.      I  \\;is  iMTlccth'  cool  now  .      M  V 

t  1  •  1 

]if'r\ oiisiu'ss  had  ail  dis:i|»]>;'ar»'d.  In  short.  I  was 
mad.  I  stood  watrhiim-  his  coiii'st'  and  awaitinu' 
(h'V»'lo|iinrnts  with  all  ihf  conlidt'iicc  ami  roolnrss 
of  a  vctt'ian.  insii-ad  of  the  novi<'t'  1  really  was.  lie 
lan  down  the  loiiu'  hill,  acioss  tli<*  swale  and  up  thf 
hill  on  the  opposite  side.  and.  on  icadiinu  the  lop  ol" 
it  and  connnu-onr  ni)on  oix'ii  uround.  turned  hroad- 
sidf  and  stopiM'd  to  look  at  nu'",  doulttlfss  deeming' 
himst'ir  pcrl'crtly  safe  at  that  uit'at  distam' '.  Stand- 
ing- ri'cct  on  that  hiuh  stump  1  was  clear  al)()Vt>  the 
surronndinii'  nndcrhrush  and  had  a  line  vi«'w  ol'  th»^ 
magnilicrnt  cpiarry.  His  head  was  thrt)wn  high  up 
and  w«'ll  back:  his  ears  erect,  nostrils  distended,  and 
even  at  that  distance  I  imaulned  I  could  see  the 
deliant  gleam  of  his  jet  Mack  eye.  llisgh»ssy  coat 
glistened  in  the  hrilliaiit  autumn  sunlight,  and  his 
sj»reading  antlers  and  powerful  muscidar  develop- 
ment chtiracterized  him  as  a  giant  among  his  kind. 
As  I  rais«^d  mv  title  slowlv  to  mv  shoulder,  I  I'elt 
that  at  last  1  had  jterfect  control  of  my  iieivesand 
that  I  was  in  some  measure  to  redeem  mysidf  from 
tlie  ignominy  of  past  failures.  I  liad  elevated  my 
rear  sight  for  '2M)  yards,  and  as  I  looked  thiough 


'1 


rw 


li 


.(Li 


t^ 


■iHu 


n 


:>s«; 


ci:i  i>i\<.>.  IN  mi;  ca^cauks 


tlif  (|»'li('iit«'  iiolcli  ill  il  iiii'l  "-.iw  lln'  little  lioldcii 
IVoiit  l>»';nl  <iliimin'i'  on  ilif  ltn('l\">>  slioiildrr,  tlif  iiiii/- 
zlf  (»r  lilt'  lillf  \\;iN  ;is  stJ'jhly  :iii<l  iiiiiiio\  ;il)l(»  .-is  if 
scit'u.'d  ill  ;i  vice.  Tliri»'  WHS  IK)  iit'iiiof.  ii(>\il)r;i- 
timi  now;  nw\  lioMiiiL;'  u*'ll  ii|»  ti>  the  spiiic  iiikI 
siiowiiii;' till' I'lill  si/.*'  <»r  tli«'  Ih'ikI.  to  iillow  for  tin* 
(lisijiiK't'.  I  jircssrd  t lit' tii.uiii'i'. 

At  tlif  ifport  111*' (Ifcr  l)<»iiii(l»'<l  into  the  ;iii' :is  if 
a  <l\n;iniitt' cMrtridu't' li:i<l  <'\i>lod»'d  iindfr  liini.  :ind, 
lowt'iiiiu'  liis  head  to  :i  liiif  with  his  l»ody,  st;iit»'d 
to  nm.  Tlicri'  \\;is  none  of  those  lofty,  niry  Ic-ips 
How.  no  deli;int  w;i\  inu' t<t  niid  fro  of  llit»  white  ll;iu'. 
'!'h;it  einlileiii  w;is  closely  furled.  His  ]»ii(h^  \\;is 
broken  iind  his  sole  oltject   in  life  setMned  to  lie  to  ^t't 

out  of  th»'  count rv  as  soon  :is  nossihle,  Tlic  coin's«» 
he  h;,d  taken  lay  al(»n,u'  the  top  of  the  I'idue  and  I 
liad  a  line  view  of  the  run  from  start  to  linish.  He 
at  on<'el)egan  io  waver  in  his  course,  tnrninusliuhtly 
from  left  to  riii'ht  and  from  riuhr  to  left.  lie 
stumltled  and  stauueied  like  a  Mind  horse,  lie  ran 
craslilnu'  and  smashing;-  into  the  dead  top  of  a  fallen 
tree,  hreakinu'  the  dry  liiiil)s.  some  (»f  them  three  or 
four  inches  in  diameter,  as  if  they  had  been  rye 
stnm><.  When  he  had  uoneas  far  intothis  hdjyrinth 
of  l)ranches  as  he  conld  ,iiet,  he  sank  to  the  gioiind 
MS  if  exhausted,  but  suddenly  rose  auain.  extricate(l 
himself  by  a  few  desperate  striiu'uies  to  theriuht, 
and  sped  on.  He  ran  sipiarely  auainst  a  uood-sized 
sai»lin,jL'"  with  such  force  as  to  throw  him  i)rostrate 
ni»on  his  sid«-».  Still,  his  ureat  vitality  was  not  spent, 
and.  strng<ilin,iji;  to  his  feet,  lie  dashed  on  again. 
Next  he  ran  against  a  log  that  hiy  up  from  the 
ground  some  tlu«'e  feet  and  was  set  bacli  upon  his 


A\I>   nT|||;i;    Hl'Mix,;    a  HV  KMI  i:i;>. 


•J.S7 


li:mnr'li..<.  |I,.  ,|iii,.UIy  iv.,,vi(.,l,  t<M.k  it  in  -ood 
nIi:i|m',  Mild  iK.w  .|:is|i,m|  im.,  ;,  climii)  of  ...-ik  ui  iil.s 
tliMf  still  h.-l.l  thrirdiv  l.-:,v..s.  T.';,iiim:,Md  r.MciiiM. 
Iiis  \v:iy  llir,,imli  tlirs,.,  |,,.  r,,i-,-d  :ilir:i.|  uii|,  ;d|  his 
'••''•lililliMU'  shviiull,  ..,,id  p||||,M,,|  |„.;|(||n||-  jm,, 
"'""'"''■  '■•'"•'"  flv.-K.p.  hi  II, is  ll.'stniun|..d.  tivilli;- 
to  I'oicv  his  u;iy  ..III  iiiilil  lics:i,ik  iij.,.!;  I li.' un;,,,,,"! 
IVoiii  sh.M.i-  |,,ss  ,,r  i.|,„,d  :,iid  .-xpiivd.  j.'r,,|||  u  |„.,.,. 
Ik-    stood    uh,.n    I  shot,     t,,    wh,.]-,'  h.-  li||;,||v  IVII  U;,s 

aboil r  :50()  vnrds, 

I  st..|,jMM|  ihcdislaiKv  I'lciii  uhriM  !  st(,od  I,,  uhrlo 
til.'  d.'.T  \v:is  uIlmi  I  liivd  imd  r,,i||,d  it  |,,I.,.  v'.? 
yar.ls.     T.'ikiii.u'   iij>    his   tniil.   I    fonpd   ih,.   o|.,,|ii,.| 

roi>ioilsly  >|.lillkl.'.|  ;\iil|  i,|ond  \\lh-|v  li.'  .'MlllT' d.  .wn 

iit  Ih.'. -11.1  of  his  lirsr  jiiiiii..  and  th.'  l.-avs  ;,i„||,|.||s|, 
wcnM-riiiisoiH'd  with  it  ri..ni  tli.Mv  i.)  u  h.T.'  h.'u;i\,- 
iil»   til.'  strii-'ul.'.     Oil   .•..iiiiiiu'    lip  lo    him   I   ionnd 
that  iii\l.iill,.t  had  driri.'d  sliuhtlyt..  ih.-  I, .ft.  r.uinu- 
to  111.'  I'oir.'  ol"  ;t  stroii-i-  wind  which  w.is  i)lowiim'  at 
th.' tinu'.  and  .'iir   his  thront   almost  ns  n.-atly  as  [ 
could   h;i\-.'   doll,,   ir   with  my  Jniiilin.u-knif.'.'     The 
(I'soi.ha.i-iis    w:is   rntir.'ly    s.'v,.|>.d   jiiid    th.-    thorax 
li.'arly  so.     His  l,(„|y  \\:,s  sa.lly   hniis.-d  .,,id  I:,,vr- 
ated  l)y  th.'  t.'nil)l.'  ordcnl  thioiiuh  whi<  h    h.-  had 
passed,  and    I  concliidfd    that    h.'  must  liav.'  none- 
stoiu'  blind    wh.'ii    th,>   bi,ll,.t   struck    him.      \n   no 
otiicr  way  can  I  account  for  his  stranuc  conduct,     f 
sav.'d  his  he.'id  and  had   it  mounted  us  m  memento 
of  one  of  tile  must  lemaikable  scratch  shots  1  ever 
made. 


I 


w 


CTIAPTEl?  XXVTII. 


■.  !■      I  ■ 


11)  ::i^: 


TIIIJEE    OF    A     KIXD. 

ARLV  Muiunm's  frosts  luid  tinged  the 
I'oliiigv  of  tlie  birch,  maple,  oak.  and  elm 
tr(M's,  that  int«^rmin,iil<'  in  the  great 
pine  forests,  willi  a  thousand  rich 
colors  and  shades  of  gold,  brown,  olive, 
pink,  and  crimson,  Avhile  the  pines,  the 
icmlocks,  the  iirs,  and  tlu'  ce(hirs  still 
e  th«^ir  dark  mantels  of  perennial  green, 
and  all  Nature  was  clad  in  her  sweetest  smiles. 
A  solitary  woodpecker,  perched  on  the  tojimost 
bi'ancii  of  a  dead  giant  of  the  forest,  reaching  out 
fa  I'  above  the  surrounding  network  of  leafy  branches, 
from  which  he  might  survey  the  suri'ounding  coun- 
try, sounded  his  morning  reveille  and  awaited  the 
coming  of  Ills  mate.  The  dry  leaves  with  which 
nu'ther  earth  was  carpeted,  rustled  now  and  again 
to  the  bound  of  the  saucy  led  s(piinel,  the  darting 
hither  and  thither  of  the  shy  wood-mouse,  or  the 
tread  of  the  stu})id,  half-witted  porcupine.  The 
chill  October  wind  soughed  through  the  swaying 
tree-tops,  laden  with  the  rich  ozone  that  gives  life, 
lit^alth,  and  happiness  to  all  animate  beings  that  are 
pennitted  to  inhale  it. 

On  such  a  morning,  and  annd  such  a  scene  of 
natural  lovelmess,  I  left  the  train  at  Junction  City, 


ci 


AM»    oTIIKlJ    IILXTING    ADVKXTlKKs. 


2SJ) 


on  the  Wisconsin  (Vntnil  R:.ilw:,v.  stMited  on  a 
th.ve-miie  jnunt  to  ii  lo-ino  ,,,,,,1,.  1V„- :,  dnv  or  two 
on;.  «leerro,n„l..i..     I  r.ach.d  n.y  destination  at  nine 

0  clock.     I  he  men  liad  ]..iio-  sii„v  o-,>,„.  to  their  wcik 

bntthe-|,(,s.s"-   h.-i.l    letunied    to  . •.•,„. p  to  Mfte.id    to 

some  l>usi„...s  in  iiand.  and.  nelcomino-  ...e  witli  llie 
livnemus  Jiospitality  th.-it  is  ahvavs  shown  l,v  tliese 
sum\y  sons  of  the  foiest  to  suan.ueis,  ha.h'  ni"emake 
niyselt  at  home  as  Jon-  as  I  caied  i,,  stav.  To  m  v 
inquiry  as  to  the  i„vs,.n<e  of  o-nme  in  tli'e  vicinity 
he  SMid  tliere  was  j.N.nty  of  i,.  and  that  the  men  saw- 
one  or  more  deer  nearly  eveiv  dav  w!,il,^  ooin<.'  to 
or  returning  from  their  work,  wjiieh  was  onfv  a 
nuh'  a  way. 

I  h.st  no  time  in  -ettino-  out  and  enterin-  an  ohl 
slaslimg  to  the  east  of  the  ean.i)  wliere  the  foreman 
.said   sio,,,   were  ph-ntiful.     ]    had   not   gone   n,ore 
tlian  iiali  a  mile,  when,  turninu-  to  the  left   on  an 
old  loogino.  road,  1  saw  several   fivsli  tracks  of  deer 
that  liad  been  feeding  there  that  nioinin-      It  was 
now  eleven  o'clock  in  the   forenoon  and  I  ha<l  no 
hope  of  linding  the  game  on  ibot  at  that  late  hour 
but  dei)eiided  entirely  upon  jumping  a  deer  from  its 
bed  and  uponliaving  to  risk,  in  all   probability   a 
running  shot.     [  m(,ved  very  cautio.isly.   l^.^e'v^r 
and  was   on   the  ,j,(i  rir,>    f,,r  any  stra-der   that 
might  p-rchance  be  moving.     Kverv  foot  of  ^rouiid 
that  came  within  the  scope  of  my  visicm  was  care- 
tiilly  scanned  and  every  sound  or  movement  of  leaf 
or  shrub,   no  matter  how  slight,  received  the  most 
caretul  attention,  during  long  and  I'lequent  pauses, 
betore  proceeding  on  my  way. 

1  followed  tlie  road  through  various  turns,  alon< 


s  » 


I 


18 


^E 


2Ui) 


CIM   ISINi.S    IN    TIIK    (  AS(  ADKS 


tilt'  l)t'(l  oI'm  sliulit  riivine,  and  as  1  louudcd  one  of 
its  al>riii)t  lu'uds  that  i^'ave  mn  a  view  of  a  roiisidcr- 
al»lt' ('xi)anst*  of  liill-side.  I  stoi*p«'d  again  to  rccon- 
noitic  Tilt'  liToiinil  was  covei'ed  with  a  dense  growth 
of  weeds,  raspberry  briers,  ami  wild-cheirv  h'lslies 
that  liail  sj>rniiu'  up  since  tlie  timber  had  btvn 
eut  off.  all  t»r  wlii<'li  hail  l)een  sficken  by 
rei'ent  I'losts.  and  dried  by  subsetpieiit  sun  and 
wind.  In  these  dry  weeils  1  saw  a  slight  nn)vement, 
antl  on  cai-eful  examination  was  able  to  tlistinguisli 
a  faint  outline  of  a  doe.  stamling  i)aitiallv  behintl  a 
laige  siumi).  a  hun<lretl  yaids  away.  Her  head  and 
shoulders  were  entirely  hidden  by  the  stunij).  and 
I  had  tt)  stej>  back  some  distance  before  1  couhl  get 
sight  of  a  vital  part  to  shoot  at.  As  hei-  shoulder 
came  in  view  I  knelt  (»n  my  light  knee,  rested  my 
left  elbow  on  my  left  knee.  and.  diawinga  line  bead 
on  her  shoulder,  lired.  She  droj)ped  in  her  tracks. 
My  aim  was  a  little  hiuher  than  1  inteiuh'd.  antl  the 
l)ullet,  passing  through  her  shouhler  blades  high 
uj).  severeil  the  spine  between  them  («n  its  way, 
killing  her  as  suthleillv  as  if  it  hail  eiitertHl  the 
brain.  At  the  report  of  the  rille  a  young  buck 
btninded  out  of  the  brush  near  bv  ami  wavetl  me  a 
vaunting  farewell  as  he  tlisappearetl  over  the  riilge, 
not  giving  nie  even  a  fair  running  shot.  1  dressed 
the  doe  and  went  back  to  cami>  for  dinner,  tlit^ 
weh'ome  notes  of  the  huge  old  tin  horn,  lloating 
in  musical  cadence  through  the  forest,  sumnnaiing 
nie  at  that  nionit'iit  to  that  much  neetled  I'ejiast. 

After  dinner  l  went  out  on  another  old  unused 
logging  road,  leailing  to  the  st>ntli,  and,  following  it 
51  few  hundred  yards,  branched  olf  to  another  which 


ANi>  oriiKi;  III  .\iiN«;  ai>\  k.n  i  riiKs. 


1>1 


1(m1  to  tilt'  si)iithu>'st.  A  nmiilicr  of  I'.-ilIrii  trees, 
lyiiiu'  across  these,  unve  rue  freijiient  opiiorliiiiilies 
to  iiioiint  their  prostnite  trunks  jiiid  h»ok  o\er  Inrp' 
tr:icls  of  surroiiiKliii.u'  <'(»mitry.  lii  tliiis  sjiiiiiteriiiH- 
;iri(l  lookiiiu'  I  had  spent  an  hour  or  more  wlieii, 
on  passinuan  iinnsnally  (h'nseeliinipor  tall  dry  weeds 
that  stood  near  the  road,  1  was  startled  l)\-  a  siidd'ii 


crasliinu' and  rattlinu"  anionii'  tiiem.  and  an  instant 
later  t  wo  lai'Lit' (loes  liroke  CON cr  at  the  farther  side 
and  started  across  a  naridwopeii  sjiace.  jhit  hefoie 
they  reached  the  farther  side  of  ii  the  voice  of  my 
Winchester  exjuess  was  re\erl)eiatinu'  aiiioiiu"  the 
lofty  pines,  and  a  cloud  of  smoke  liiiiiu'  between  me 
and  where  I  had  last  seen  ihem.  I  sprang' t<»  one  side 
to  avoid  this,  hut  they  had  hot  h  disappeared  in  the 
tiiicket,  and  \  could  still  hear  one  of  them  crash- 
in,U' away  toward  the  ureeii  woods.  I  fell  suivihat 
I  had  hit  the  other,  and.  u-oiii,u-  to  where  I  had  last 
seen  her.  1  found  hhtod.  hair,  and  several  small  bits 
of  llesh  on  the  ground  and  the  iieinhhoriim' weeds. 
Followinu' the  trail  a  distance  of  jifty  feci.  1  found 
her  lyinu' dead  with  her  throat  cut,  and.  in  fact,  a 
considerable  [)ortion  of  it  shot  away.  The  exi)ress 
bullet,  driven  by  a  heavy  chaiLie  of  jiowdei',  has 
such  a  liiuh  velocity  that  when  it  stiikes  tlesli  it 
invariaitly  makes  a  bin- hole  in  it.  One  hind  le,u' was 
also  broken  s(piare!y  oil'  at  the  knee  and  the  bont^ 
protrude*!  throiiuh  the  skin. 

I  stood  pondeiinu- and  pii/./linu'  over  this  stran^-e 
phenonu'non.  How  in  the  name  of  wonder  could 
one  bullet  break  her  hind  leu' and  cut  her  throat!! 
I  stooped  down  and  examined  the  wound.  To  my 
sui'i>nse.  I  found  that   i'  had  not   been  made  with  a 


l! 


2\)'2 


<  inisiN(,>  IN   rm:  (  asc  adks 


(  :   t 


l)iillet  at  all.  The  joint  was  dislocat^^d  and  the  skin 
toi'u  awav  until  tin*  (lisjoinltMJ  nifmlx^r  litinu'  only 
bv  a  iiai'i'ow  sf^n'incnt.  'i'licn  llic  nivstcrv  \v;is 
deeper  tliaii  ever.  What  could  possibly  have  caused 
this  violent  and  terrible  wound;  It  had  been  niadt^ 
after  T  shot,  I'or  at  that  time  the  a,uile  creature  was 
l)oundin^'  over  l(\us  and  throuuh  clunijis  (»t'  bi'iish 
with  all  the  li'race  and  airiness  of  her  sylph-like 
nature.  I  turned,  took  up  her  back  track,  and, 
followiuii'  it   thirty  or   foi'tv   feet,  came   to  a    fallen 

C^  a.  a. 

tamarack  sai»lin,u"  about  six  inches  iu  diameter,  that 
laid  up  about  a  foot  from  the  <i'round.  The  track 
•sliDwed  that  the  poor  creature,  in  one  of  her  frantic 
leaps,  just  after  beiiiu'  hit,  came  down  with  her  fore 
feet  on  one  side  of  this  pol--  and  her  hind  feet  on  the 
other;  that  one  hind  foot  had  slipped  on  the  soft 
earth  and  slid  under  the  i)ole  to  her  knee,  and  tliat 
the  next  bound  had  brouuht  it  up  against  the  pole 
in  the  form  of  a  lever — much  as  a  logger  would  i)lace 
his  handspike  rnder  it  in  attempting  to  throw  it  out 
of  his  way — antl  the  pole,  being  far  too  long  and 
heavy  to  yield  to  her  strength,  the  leg  had  been 
snapped  short  off. 

I  describe  this  incident  merely  as  one  of  the  many 
strange  and  mysterious  ones  that  come  under  the 
observation  of  woodsmen,  and  not  with  any  desire  to 
give  i)ain  to  sensitive  and  sympathetic  readers. 

The  beautiful  animal  did  not  stiller  lung  from  this 
hurt,  however,  for  she  was  dejid  when  I  reached  her, 
within  perhaps  three  or  four  minutes  a.  .er  I  tired 
the  fatal  shot.  I  saved  her  head  and  had  it  mounted 
and  it  hangs  beside  that  of  the  ]»uck  whose  taking 
off  has  been  described  and  whose  throat  was  also 


:■'  t 


;■*!  -i 


AMI    oillKi;    HI   .\H.\(,    ADVKN'nilKS. 


'Mi 


nearly  sPVHivd  l.ythe  bullet.    They  were  two  ivmaik- 
able  shots. 

After  (hvssiiiu-  this  dner  I  returned  to  the  old  1 


in  Avhich  I  had  killed  the  (h)e  in  tl 
took  a  stand  on  a  hmii.  llat-toii  >r 


)urn 


K'  niorninu',  and 


niandeda^-ood  view  of  a  hiruv  tract  of 
country.     I  fdt  certain  that  tl 
was  with   her  ^^■\un\   I  killect  1 
toward  nidit,  to  look  un  ] 


p  ^tuni}..  which  com- 


ably  did    not    realize  that  si 
within  thirtv  vards  of  ] 


siiri'onnding 

le  young  buck  that 

ler  would  come  back 

ip  his  coini»anion,  for  he  prob- 


kept  a  close  watch  in  every  direction,  t 
from  one  ])osition  to  another,  so  that 
came  in  sight  could  not  delect  tl 


le  was  dead.     I   stood 
ler  carcass  and  i'or  an  hour 


urning  slowly 
uny  game  that 


le  movement  and 
consider  me  one   of  the 


would,  if  seeing  uie  at  all, 

numerons  old  higli  stumps  with  which  the  land 

was  mai-ked.     Toward  sundown  a  larue.   hand 


luick 


'•ame  out  of  the  green  woods  half  a  mil 


ape 
some 


walking  delil)erately  towai'd  me.     I  could 
a  proud  head  and  spreadim--  antl 


sinnal  glimpse  of  his  silvery -gray  back  as  L,  

with  stately   but  cautious   nvad   through    the  d 


eawav, 

see  onl  V 

ers,  and  an  occa- 

le  marched 


weeds. 


II 


rv 


e  stoi)ped  freipiently  to  look  and  listeii 
for  (hinger,  or  the  c,,y  maidens  of  his  kind,  of  whom 
he  was  in  s,airh.     Oh.  how  I  longed  for  a  shot  at 


hi 


m!     With   l)ated    breati 


I   and   throbbiuii,-   heart   I 


cross  the  open  coimti'v. 
lei'e    wasj    was 


watched  his  slow  pi-ogress  a 

But,    alas:    the  wind   (what   little   il 

wrong.     When  wiiliin   abcmt  '2m   yaids  of  nie  he 

scented    me    and    bounded    s(piarely    sidewise    as 

though  a  rattlesnake  ha<l  bitten  him.\itterinu-  at  the 

same  time  one  of  those  pe.-nliarly  thrilling  whistles 

That  miuht  have  been  heard  in  the  stillness  of  the 


III 


i?!»4 


CIM  ISIN(;S    IV   TIIK   CASCADKS 


H«' 


ity 


m 


f 


<'V('MiiiLC  !i  iniN'i  or  inorc  llo  struck  m  pirtmcscjiie 
jittitiidc  and  .scanned  tlie  country  in  cvciy  diifciion, 
ti'vin.^' to  locate  the  dau.ucr  hut  could  not.  Ai'tci-  a 
few'  seconds  lie  inad(;  auotliei'  hiuii  bound,  stoi>|>e<l. 
and  whistled  auM in.  I  stood  perfectly  still,  and  he 
c.)ald  make  iiothiiiLi,'  animate  out  of  the  inanimate 
objects  about  him.  lie  leajx'd  hithei'  and  thither, 
snorted,  whistled,  and  snilfed  the  air  as  we  have  seen 
ji  wild  colt,  do  when  libi'iated  in  a  pa.sture  Held  after 
loiiii' conlinenient  in  his  stall. 

Althouuh  still  unal)le  to  satisfy  himself  as  to  the 
whereabouts  of  his  fo**,  lie  linally  seeme(l  to  decide 
that  that  was  not  a  healthy  nei^hboi'liood  foi- him. 
aiid,  takiuL!;  his  back  trail,  started  to  i>et  out  of 
it  by  a  siM'ies  of  twenty-foot  leaps.  I  was  teni[)ted 
to  hazard  a  .shot  at  him.  but  could  see  such  a  small 
portion  of  his  body  wlien  standing'  that  the  chances 
w«'re  aii'ainst  makinu"  a  hit.  l^esides.  as  already 
stated,  T  felt  sure  of  a  shot  at  shorter  ran,ii.-e  1)_\ 
kee])in,u-  srill.  I  watched  and  listened  closely  in 
every  dii'ect ion.  The  i>un  liad  .u'one  down,  Niuht 
was  silently  wi'appiim'  her.soniber  mantle  over  th«' 
vast  wild(.i'ness,  and  the  only  .sounds  that  l>rokethe 
o])pressive  stillness  were  the  occasional  croakin,u,s  of 
il'tA  raven  as  he  winu'ed  his  stately  lliulit  to  liis 
I'ookeiy,  and  the  low,  solemn siuhinu,-  of  the  autumn 
breezes  throuu'h  the  ])ine  tojis.  I  was  b/'iiumbed 
with  cohl,  and  was  tempte(l  to  (U'seit  my  \n)s\  and 
make  a  run  foi-  cami).  1  raised  mv  lille  to  niv 
slioidder  to  see  if  I  coidd  vet  see  the  siiihts,  foi' 
stars  were  be<iininii,!4'  to  s])arkle  in  tln^  iiimaiuMit. 
Yes;  tln^  little  uold  bead  at  the  muzzle  still  uhMined 
in  the  twilight,  with  all  the  brilliancy  of  one  of  the 


i 


i 


AM)   OTIIKK    inNTIX(,    Al>\  KMlKKs. 


'J'X} 


l:imi»s  <,f  ]it';iv<Mi.  1  tiirn.Ml  t.»  tak.-  :i  ]:ist  look  in 
the  (liicctioii  of  tlic  cairiiss  of  my  inoniiiiu's  kill. 
jni(l--iiiia,uiii.>  my  astonislnii.'iil  ii'  you  can  -tli.'i.' 
.stood  tht'  yoimo-  hiick.  lickiii,--  tlic  body  ol'  his  J'all.'ii 
mat.'!  How  !it^  cvci'  ,u(.r  ili.-ir.  tlii'oiluh  all  flios.. 
brush  and  weeds  without  my  heaiiim  oi-  seeiim-  him 
will  always  ivmaiii  a  i)i'ol'ouiid  mystery  to  me.  P,iii  a 
ball  lV<)mmy«'xi.ivssentei-iiii.-his  shouMei-and  ].ass- 
inuout  ar  liis  tiaidv  hud  him  dead  ])y  the  side  of  liis 
c'()m[)auioii.  and  completed  tho  best  score  T  ever 
ma(h'  oil  (h.,.i-— thre,.  in  one  day— and  I  had  liivd  l)ut 
three  .shots  in  all. 


■ 


l\l 


,        ;li  i 


P«4 

h 

in 


)1f 


ill 


*/ 


CHAPTER   XXIX. 


M.  Geor^v  T.  Pease  lives  in  ji  log  shanty,  in 
t  lie  heart  of  the  great  Wisconsin  ])ine 
woods,  live  miles  west  of  AVausankee 
^-^  station,  on  the  Milwaukee  6:  Northern 
Jiailroad.  A  l)eaiiliful  litth*  lake  stretches 
out  in  front  of  his  door,  in  which  numer- 
ous black  bass  make  their  home,  and 
several  brooks  meander  through  the  wil- 
dtn'ness  not  far  awav,  all  of  which  abound 
in  the  sprightly,  s|)arkling  ))rook  trout.  Deer 
^  I  f  roam  over  the  hills  far  and  near,  and  wlien 
the  first  "tracking  snow"  comes,  in  the  van  of  icy 
wintei'.  their  hoof-prints  may  be  found  wi'liln  a 
liundred  vards  of  th<^  cabin  aiiv  morniiii;-.  Pease  is 
a  genial,  kind-hearted  old  man,  in  whose  humble 
(luartei's  the  true  si)oitsman  is  always  welcome. 
Reared  in  these  woods,  and  bred  in  the  i»ureatmos- 
phei'e  that  abounds  here,  a  hunter  by  trade  and 
fi'oMi  necessity,  lie  isasim[)le,  honest  child  of  natuie. 
With  tile  exception  of  I'our  or  live  years  spent  in 
the  service  of  his  countiy,  during  the  war  of  the 
Hebellion,  he  has  lived  and  hunted  in  this  I'egion 
since  the  days  of  his  l)oylio()d,  and  his  gr;iy  hairs 
bespeak  foi-  him  the  ivspect  men  always  feel  for  the 
honest  old  woodsman. 

I  spent  several  days  hunting  with  him  in  Xovem- 
ver,   1885,  and  the  intei'veinng   nights — or  a  large 

Ci'JO) 


AND    (.TI[i;i;    mXTIN,;    AKVKXTII.'i: 


•i!)1 


portion  of  onch-in  talkinu-  with  liim.     I  I.-urnod  in 
that  short  tiiiie  to  «'st«»Hiii  and  valii.' him  as  tnu^  (.f 
the  best  gnidi-sand  hnntnrs  1  .-v.-r  kiipu,  and  one  of 
the  trnest   rrifnds  I  Imv...     Althou-ii  Im>  hns  hmi 
linntino-  so  many  y<'ars  and  has  always  l.ren  a  Hose 
observvr  oi'  \\u^  Jiahits  of -am.";  alth.ainh  tiioroiiiiiily 
posted  (Ml  woodcraft   in   all  its   (h'tails,   he   is'^not 
eii'otistical  as  aiv  so  many  old  woodsm».n.     \h>  n.-v.'r 
intrndcs  his  opinions  on  any  snhjV'ct  nnless  ask.-d 
for   them;  luncr  dictat.'s   what   anycme  nndi'r    his 
gnidance  shall  do.     I[,.  modestly   snuuvsts.  and  if 
yon  do   not   agree  with    him,   defers  Checi-fn I ly   to 
y<»ni'  jndiiinent. 

He  is  intelligent,  well-informed  .irenerally,   fnll  of 
interestin<jc  leniiniscences  .,f  his  lile  in  thV  wilder- 
ness, and  relates  many  thrilling- episo,;,.s  in  his  expe- 
rience in  hnntinu' deer.  Ix'ar.  wolves,   etc.     He  told 
nie  that (mce,  when  hnntinuon  thn  Menominee  liver, 
he  saw  a,  (h»e  lyinu(h)wn.  and  raised  his  ritle  to  shoot 
her.     Bnt  before  lirin-  he  noticed  that  she  had  se.-n 
him  and  was  strn,u-,uIinM'  to.ii'et  ii[).     As  she  di(i  n,,t 
sncceed  in  this,   he  e(,ncln(h'd   that  she  must  have 
been  wonnded,  and  started  toward  her.     She  kej)t 
strngo-iino-,  l)ut  was  nnable  to  lise,  and  on  goinu'  to 
her  he  fonnd  that  she  had  lain  down   near  a  large 
hejnlock  root,  that  had  curved  (uit  of  the  ground, 
foiniing  anarch  or  loop  thiee  oi' fom-  inches  high.' 
One  of  her  hind  legs  had  slippe.l  un(h-r  this  root^to 
the  knee,  and  when  she  had  attempted  to  get  uj)  she 
liad  probably])een  thrown  violently  on  her  side,  dis- 
locating the  hi[)  joint  and  thus  rendering  it  utterly 
iuipossible  for  her  to  draw  the  impiisoiied  If.g  from 
under  the  root    llesaidthe  poorcreature  had  ai>i)ar- 


_       / 


I 
I 


'2'.):^ 


CIMT-^IXOS    IV    Tin-:    <    \N(  ADKS 


liil 


■?  (■ 


ently  ItiTii  in  lliis  i)iti;il)|»'  pliuht;  sever:!!  d.iys;  tlinl 
sill'  Av;iS  stiirved  Mild  (MUilcialed  jillliost  to  !l  sli;i(l()\V, 
iui<l  liMd  tramped  and  [lawed  n  lioleiii  tlie  eaith  more 

than  a  I'oot  dfe)).  overllie  entile  spare  readied  by 
her  Tore  Tee t.       Had  she  li(»t  l>eelldisc(>\  ('led.  tile  pool' 

crealiire  must  soon  liave  died  from  starvation.  As 
it  was,  she  was  so  \veai\  tliat  when  lie  ich'ased  lier 
h*g  I'rom  tliis  strange  traji  slie  was  unal>h'  to  stand, 
and  he  reluctantly  killed  her,  as  the  sj)eediest.  most 
humane,  and,  in  I'act.  tln^  only  means  of  cndinj^  her 
miserv. 

I  reiiched  the  old  man's  cahiii  at  about  noon.  We 
hunted  dilig«Mitly  all  the  al'ternoon,  and  thoiiuU  we 
>saw  plenty  of  I'resh  tracks  evcrywhej-e  in  tiie  newly- 
fallen  snow,  neither  of  us  could  <iet  siuht  of  a  deer, 
ami  when  we  met  at  the  shantv  at  dark  and 
exchanued  notes,  Pease  was  sorely  disai>[)ointed. 
The  next  foriMioon  was  a  repetition  of  this  experi- 
<*nce,  and  Avhen  we  met  auain  at  the  cal)in  for 
dinner,  l>oth  em[»ty-handed,  liis  disappointment  was 
intensilied  into  (lespomhMicy.  We  .separated  after 
1h(»  noon  meal,  and  when  we  came  in  at  ni.uht,  I 
looked  even  more  dejected  and  disi;usted  than  ever, 
and  asserted,  with  a  good  deal  of  emphasis,  that  I 
did  not  helieve  the  "blasted"  country  was  any  good 
for  game;  that  I  thought  lie  or  someone  had  hunted 
thedeerand  shotat  them  until  thev  were  so  wild  that 
no  man  could  get  within  ;")()()  yards  of  one.  lie 
insisted  that  such  was  not  the  case;  that  he  liad 
been  killing  [»lenty  of  deer  that  fall,  an<l  that  others 
liad  killed  a  few  in  the  neighborhood,  ])iit  not 
enough  to  spoil  the  hunting,  as  I  claimed.     He  said 


I 


m 


AND  (»iin:i«  iriNiixc;  .\i>vi,NrrKK 


21)0 


oiii-  \\;iiit  (»l"  ."^iicc.'ss  utterly  iisionislMMl  liim:  tlijit  li«' 
was  fiiily  .sori-y;  llinf  lie  could  not  account  for  it, 
and  that  w«*  .should  suivly  jiiakc  a  killin-'  on  ilir 
moirow. 

••  Have  you  s...'n  any  fivsji  tracks  to-day?"  1  asked. 
'M)li,  yes.  plciity  of  tlicni;  liavcn't  youf" 
•'Well,  y,vs,  two  oj-  thrc-  hut   I   think   tin-  d.-.-r 

tliat  ina(h'  tlieni  were  ten  miles  away   wiien    I   -ot 

thei-(\"' 

'•  ^Vlly,*'  said  hp,  "  wlien  T  stni'ted  out  this  aftor- 
iiooii  i  skirted  aloni;'  that  ))i,u'  swani]>.  where  you 
hunted  in  the  niorninu'.  and  I  saw  where  four  (jeei- 
liad  crossed  your  tiack  since  you  went  aloiii:'.  One 
of  them  was  an  awfid  l)ig  l)uck.  I  took  ui)  Ids  tiail 
and  followed  it  in  hoi»es  of  overt■ikin^•  him  and  ,uet- 
tino-  51  sliot.  lie  i-oamed  and  ciicled  aiound  anioni;- 
tile  hills  and  thiougli  the  swamps  l'oi\  1  icckon, 
moj-e  than  five  nules.  I  walked  just  as  still  as  ]  pos- 
sibly could,  for  1  knew  we  wei'e  nniihty  niuh  out  (.f 
meat,  iiiid  I  am  uettin'  nno-hty  tiled  of  hacon  any- 
how. Ihit  somehow  that  ])uck  lieaid  me  oi-  suK-lt 
me,  or  somelhinu-.  an<l  the  tirst  and  h.  J  saw  of  him 
was  just  one  flip  of  his  tail  as  he  went  ovej-  a  lidue 
about  three hundied  yaidsaway.  I  sat  down  on  a  ]oo' 
and  waited  and  studied  a  lon.i;'  time  what  lo  <lo  or 
where  to, uo  next;  and  Jinally  I  concluded  I'd  just 
come  ill  and  ,uet  supper  ready  by  the  lime  you  i^ot 
here.  Set  up,  sir,  and  have  a  cup  of  colfee  and  some 
of  these  l)aked  ])otatoes  and  some  of  this  bacon.  It 
ain't  much  of  a  sui)per,  l»ut  maybe  Ave'll  feel  a  little 
better  after  we  eat  it,  anvwav." 

«.  ft    ■ 

I  suri'oiinded  one  side  of  the   ronuli  pine  table 
suddenly,  and  when  I  out  nty  mouth  s(>  f ull  1  couldn't 


|ih 


:{()() 


<  IMlslNii^    IN     Till:    (  .\<(A|)I> 


1 

1; 


t;ilk  id.'iiii,  I  Slid,  in  m  can-h'ss.  iiiiiiit«'ivst»'(l  sort  of 
{I  wav: 

« 

••  I  saw  \vii«'r«'  ynii  siit  down  on  tiiat  loy." 

"  Did  vouT" 

"  \Vs;  I  sat  down  and  i«'st«'d  tlicre.  too.  I  was 
just  about  as  tir«'d  and  as  disyustcd  antl  as  nia<l  as  I 
am  now;  hut  after  sittinu' tiit'if  l«'n(>ilil'l«M'n  minutes, 
I  ti'ud,i;>'d  alon.i;'  tiii'ou.uh  liiat  mai»lt'  tliicivet  just 
Ix'low  tliei'e,  and  wiien  1  <^()t  tiii'ouiih  it  I  saw  a  l>i^" 
buck  smcllinn"  aionu'  on  a  doe's  traci'v.  ui>  on  llie  side- 
lull,  and  I  killed  jiimand  then  started  on  al'li'i'  the 
doe,  and " 

Pease  had  droi)[)ed  his  knife  and  fork  and  was 
lo(»kin<i:  at  me  witii  ins  mouth  hall"  ojjen  and  his  eyes 
half  shut. 

'•What  did  you  sayT*  heiiuiuiied  in  a  dazed,  half- 
whispeied  tone. 

"  I  say  I  killed  the  buck  and  then  started "' 

"  You  killed  a  buck^' 

"  Yes." 

•*  Whenf'  he  gasped,  with  his  mouth  and  eyes  ii 
little  Avider  oi)en, 

"This afternoon,"  said  I,  calndyandcomitlaceiitly. 

'•Where^' 

"  Why  just  below  that  thicket:  just  below  where 
you  sat  down  (Ui  the  log." 

The  old  man  sat  and  ga/ed  at  me  for  two  or  three 
minutes  Avhile  1  continued  to  eat  as  if  nothing 
unusual  had  hai)[)ened. 

"  Are  vou  iokinu"^"'  he  said  at  last. 

"Xo;  I'm  telling  nou  the  straight  truth.  The 
liver  an<I  heart  are  hanging  out  there  on  the  corner 
of  the  cabin;  go  out  and  look  at  them." 


A.M»   <»Tiii:i;    lirMlN,.    A  I  »\  i:,\  I  I   i;i; 


:;ii 


"  W'll.    I'll  1).'  .|;i,l  I. last. '(l:"*  ,s||..Mt.".l  111..  (.1.1  111:111. 

JIS      h..     jllllllM'.l      up      ;,|„l      nl.;,sj,,.,l      |,„.      |,y     til,.     |i:|l|,|. 

"  Why  .,11  .'arth.li.lirt  y..ii  say  s.,  uhi-ii  _\.,ii  iii>t 
<'.'mi.' in;  What  <li.|  y.ai  want  i..  .j,'<vi\..'  m,.  i',„'f 
Wiiy  .li.lyuii  uaiit  t..  .jo  all  tiiat  ki.-kiii- alx.iit  ili.' 
luiiitiiin'  lifiiiu'  so  j)(M»r;' 

"Oh,  1  jiisr  waiit.-.l  t.)  hav.'  a  liiti.-  rim  with 
you. 

Thn.ii-hoiit  that  .'v.miIu-  P.'as.^  was  ..u,.  ul'  tli.' 
liMl.pi.'st  iii.'ii  I  .'v.'jsiiw.  II,.  s.'..iu«.(l.  and.  in  ia.'t, 
.sii<l  luMvas,  lui.vas  pioH.l  t<.  haw  m..,  his  ou,.st,' 
kill  a  (h'cras  h.' \\-..iil.!  hav.' I),...|i  i,,  Imv.'  kill.'.l  it 
hiiiis.'ll'. 

II<M-Jiatl.'.l  .•li,.,Ml'ii]|y  until  .'l.-v.-ii  ..".•|..ck  l...r,,iv 
shou  ill-  j,„y  .signs  ,,!'  sl.M'pui.'ss.  This  was  about  all 
the  fi-ain.,^  I  caivd  t.)  kill,  so  1  aske.l  l>,.as,.  to  -..  im,, 
the  station  and  <4vt  a  team  to  .•om.'  out  and  tak.'  my 
ni.-atin.  In  or.h'r  to  i)ass  th.*  toiv]i..oii  ])l.'asantly. 
I  took  my  HH.'  and  start. -.1  into  th.Mvoods  auaiii.  1 
went  at  once  to  the  laick  1  had  kill.'d,  iva.hinn-  tlu* 
carcass  shortly  aft.n-  sunrisf'.  I  cut  down  a" jack 
pine,  and,  tnmmino-  olV  tli.'  l)ouohs,  ma.h'  a  h.'.l. 
Tlien  I  hiid  down,  took  out  a  l)ook  and  coninien<'.'d 
to  read,  whil.-  waiting'  f.n-  the  team  and  for  anv  deer 
that  niiolit  luipiu-n  aloni;-. 

Bnt  I  liad  not  r.»ad  lialf  a  doz.'ii  lin.'s  ^hen  I 
lienvd  ii  slight  riistlino'  and  crackino-  in  the  iVoz^n 
snow,  and,  hjoki.ng  in  the  direction  of  tli.^  nois..,  I 
saw  a  young  spike  l)U('k  walking  slowly  and  deliber- 
ately down  the  hill  not  a  hnndivd  yaV.ls  away.  I 
canght  np  my  expr.'ss  ami  inad.^  a  sliap  shotatdiim, 
bnt  in  i-iy  haste  and  surprise  missed  him  dear! 
At  the  rt  .ort  he  stopped,   threw  np  his  head  and 


;i(»^ 


(■Kri>i.\«.>    I.\    TIIK   CASCAnKS 


M  fH 


:  n. 


\}  H.^ 


presented  a  l)eautiful  pic'tui'(\  as  well  as  a  fair,  easy 
target. 

"Now.  my  lad,""  I  said  to  niysell'.  '-you  are  my 
meiit  sure."" 

I  was  so  eoiiliileiit  of  success  this  time  tliat  I 
scarce]  V  took  auv  aim  at  all.  Aiiain  i  scoivd  an 
ingloiious  miss  and  the  deer  started  awav  on  a.  series 
ot*  long,  high  hounds.  1  threw  in  jinol  her  cartridge, 
held  ahead  of  him,  and  as  he  struck  the  uround  the 
second  time  I  pulled  for  the  third  time.  Then  there 
was  a,  circus  of  a  kind  that  a  hunt<M'  rarely  sees. 
The  buck  fell  to  bucking,  bleating,  and  kicking. 
His  hind  fet^t  vrould  go  into  the  air  like  a  couple  of 
arrows  and  with  such  force  that  tliey  woidd  snap 
like  ;i  whi[»cra(  ker.  Then  he  would  ivaron  his  hind 
feet  and  paw  tiie  air;  then  jump  sidewise  and  back- 
wai'd.  He  threw  himself  twice  in  his  n'vrations,  and 
ea<'h  time  was  on  his  feet  again  almost  beforet  I 
could  realize  that  he  had  gone  down.  This  u'vm- 
nastic  »'xhil)ition  lasted  pei'haps  two  or  thi'ee 
minutes,  duriiiu'  which  time  [  was  so  paralvzed  with 
laughter  thai  1  could  not  have  shot  within  six  feet 
of  him  if  I  had  tried.  Besidt^s,  I  wanted  to  see  the 
l)erforman<'e  out.  Finally  the  bucker  i-ecovei'ed  his 
wits  and  skipped  out.  I  followed  and  found  that 
he  was  dischaiging  blood  at  such  a  rate  that  he 
could  not  go  far.  lie  went  into  a  largiUhicket.  I 
jiiiuped  him  three  times  befon^  1  could  get  a  fair  shot 
at  him.  and  coukl  hear  him  Avheeze  evei'v  time  I  came 
near  him.  Finally  I  saw  him  lying  ;i  few  yards 
away,  but  his  head  was  still  up  and  I  sent  a  bullet 
through  his  neck.  On  examination  I  found  that 
my   lirst  shot  Jiad  cut  the  point  of  his  breastbone 


A.\i>  ()rm:i;  in'MiXf;  AnvK.vrrifKs. 


;3()3 


o(hui(llia(lrui)tuiv(llt.Miiii:;(|.s<.l)lKi,uusan(ltr;iclie;i. 
[(Iragovvl  liini  out  and  laid  him  by  tlie  si(V  of  tlio 
l)ii;-  buck,  and  wIumi  Pea.st'  came  in  with  tiie  team 
an  licmr  lab^i-  li<'  said  : 

"  Well,  ril  be  dad  blasted  if  he  hain't  ^-ot  unothei' 
one. 

r  shall  always  renu-mber  that  Inint  as  one  ol*  the 
plcasantest  of  my  life,  cousitleiiiig  the  length  of 
time  it  occupied. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 


COWliUY    LIFE. 


HE  wo'kings  of  the  law  cf  evolution 
are  plaiiil}'  discernible  in  the 
development  of  the  ''cowboy,"  a 
certain  prominent  and  now  well- 
delined  character  of  the  far  AVest — 
,  one  that  was  made  necessary  by, 

'  *^  and  has  grown  out  of,  the  vast  cattle  interests 
which  have,  in  the  past  two  or  three  decades,  spread 
over  that  mystic  region,  His  counterj^art  is  sc.  i'cely 
to  be  found  anywliere  else  in  the  civilized  world,  for 
the  very  good  reason  that  such  a  species  of  man- 
hood is  not  required  anywhere  else.  True,  cattle- 
raising  is  carried  on  extensively  in  many  States  of 
our  Union  and  in  various  other  countries,  but 
nowhere  under  the  same  conditions  and  on  the 
same  plan  as  in  the  West;  lience,  though  hei'ders, 
drovers,  and  the  like  are  enii)loyed  elsewhere,  tliere 
is  nolocalitv  in  which  a  class  of  men  endowed  with 
such  characteristics  and  requiring  such  peculiar 
tastes  and  facultifs  are  to  be  found  as  are  combined 
in  the  cowboy  of  our  AVestern  plains.  The  life  he 
leads  and  the  s^ervices  he  is  required  to  pei'form  call 
into  the  ])usiness  young  men  possessing  tastes  and 
traits  different  from  tbose  of  average  human  n[iture, 
and  such  as  are  not  found  in  men  following  any  other 

(304) 


' 


)-,•! 


A.Nr>  oTin:!,  in-vriN,;  .M.vi.:NTri;i:s.  ■j,i,'; 

vocation,  „s  a  ,.la.s.    Ir isano,T„j,a„„n  iluu  ,. mails 

«'»-.l|ysi,«,kino-,  a  lilVot  isolation  !• .s/,     .  v 

""[   »  many  ,.a.s,.s   iVon,  nvili.atio,,.     It   is  o„  ■    ,1 
";l"''''l'".'",.,.o„,f,„.rsn,„stl,...|isp,.„s,.,l„i,       r  K 

;';;''l;-;i-.fteuint,.nsn.n.dsl,ipanJ„,^^:' 

I";;,;:;:..-,:;:" '"''"''' '-  "^"•^'■'-  •"  ■'-*-  -^ 

\Vl.en  all    ,|„.s.   fa,.,s    and   ,,,.,.nlia,.iri,.s   ,..■   „„. 
.illm,«  nr,.,.onsid,.,,.,l  «-,.  n.ust  iva.lilv  ,„.,-,viv,.  ,; '  t 
m..n  olo,-,Una,y  tastes  and  i„,.|inatio,s„„,, 

rV"""~^'-"""''-     <''-»l'".vsa,-,.nor-„ai      . 
to  the   njanor  horn-     Tlipv  ,1,,  „   ,    r  ,      '".'  ■"" 

t,,  .r    ,  r       ,      ■  .        '"     ""'      lo     o«     m    t  he 

ioots,.,.sol,l„.„.la,|,..,.sas,|oyonn.n„.aonl'. 
-"     anns      The  business  is  vK  ,00  voun.n,  a- 

"'  ■'"■""*•  'l"'"f-'l'  ir  will  .■on,,,  lo  ,.xist  in  fn,,,,,.     .  , 

.t  l.e.se„teow,.,ys  a. ,  exoti,..  trans  .n-.. 

stenso.l.     Let  nseonshle,,  then.  Hh'tnn.n 

Ce.tainl)  not  he  who  eousjders  a  well-s,„ea,l  table 
a  <™y    ehee,.fnl  ,,,on,,  a  ,«ood  solY  bed,  a  ,,  ' 

tnstye|otlnn^essentialtoldsla.al,lun,,lha      i    .1: 

-      ;•"'-.  •-n.villia.,,,  se.eMnseom'i    ; 
»  fh  the  socaal  euvie  ,„■  the  hnnih-  „,,,  , 

leKi.il  ladljties  and    eomfoits;   „or  vet    he   who 
"I'""  ''-  "■•■>vHs.  nmst  needs  tide  i,,  J,, ,n   ,,,,,; 

'i,-..„e    in    ^he    ocrnpat.on    of    Tnsiling  ,.a„h,'' 


wm 


800 


<'IM'ISI\(;S    IV    'i!IH   CASCADKS 


m> 


on  the  plains,  who  is  willinii;  to  nssiiiiu*  tlie  title 
of  "cowhoy/"  must  be  he  who,  altlioiigli  h<'  may 
love  all  these  luxuries,  jind  may  perhaps  have  been 
accustomed  to  enjoy  them,  has  in  his  natur*^  enou.uh 
of  romance,  enouu'h  love  I'or  outdoor  life,  enou.iih 
love  of  si)ort,  excitement,  and  adventure,  enough 
enthusiasm  for  the  wild  fi-eedom  of  the  fi'ontier,  to 
be  williiiii;  to  (h'liy  himself  all  these  luxuries  and 
to  allow  such  i)leasui'es  as  the  ranch  and  ran <4'e  can 
all'oi'd,  to  compensate  I'or  them. 

The  love  of  money  can  not  enter  larudy  into  the 
consi(h'i"ation  of  the  (piestion,  for  while  the  work  is 
oftt'ii  of  the  hardest  kind  a  man  can  enduie  a:.d  the 
hours  of  labor  only  limited  by  the  ntens  i)ower  of 
endurance,  the  wages  usually  paid  Jire  low.  From 
i<2^)  to  s;}.")  a,  month  is  the  average  rate  of  wages  for 
all  good  men  on  the  range  except  the  foreman,  who 
commands  from  s()()  to  J^Tf)  a  month,  according  to  his 
ability,  the  number  of  men  he  is  to  have  charge  of, 
and  the  responsibility  of  his  position  genei'ally. 
Am])iiion  to  succeed  to  this  diu-nitv,  or  a  desire  to 
learn  the  cattle-growing  business  with  a  view  of 
enuaging  in  it  on  their  own  account,  mav  indiice 
some  l)ovs  to  engau'e  as  hei'ders,  but  the  voung  man 
who  deliberat<'ly  chooses  this  occupation  is  usiuilly 
one  with  a  superabundance  of  vim,  energy,  and 
enthusiasm;  one  who  chafes  under  the  restraints  of 
society,  who  is  bored  and  annoyed  by  tlie  quiet  hum- 
drum life  of  the  Eastern  village,  city,  or  fai'm  house; 
one  who  longs  to  go  wdiere  he  can  breathe  fresh  air, 
exercise  his  arms,  legs,  and  lungs,  if  needl)e,  w  ithout 
disturbing  the  peace;  one  who,  in  shoi't,  lu^piires 
more  room  to  live  in  than  his  birthplace  affords. 


AM)    (.TIlKi;    inXTI^t,    Al)\  KXTIKKs.  ;}(l7 

Many  a  (.(nvl,„y  (>r    r.-hiy  was.  iu  his  rhihlhcod 

o>     youth,    th..    ,tiv,.t    o,nni„,     Th.    H.-ushnv,    tin- 

"lianl  nut-   atsHi.H.l;  th.-  daiv-drvil   „r  thlrnvnl 

•istnrts;   Thph.T..of<h,nu,u.x-|,|„its:    th..   I,nv    uho 

'r   ''"^    ^"''"  '"   •■'''"'•   ^"   ^''"   ^"l>  -I-   tl,.  h'iuh.st 
<'<";">l>"n<'iias,iuim.|(.,U(>t'hi.sJ.<,],.;  uholrilthe 
i'"(    .m  ail  oivliaid  or  wnten,i<>],>n  patrli  .„i  a  (h.ik 
I'lii.t:    wh,,atc(,lle-ouas  at  tho  head  of  all  wild 
'••'<'kl"sslrolw's.nnd  w.-.s  also  uHl  „,,  i,u,is  Hass.s- 
^^''*'  J"<1   tho  villa.^on.arshal  or  th.  rit  v  i.olhvn.an 
inany  a  wdd-o,.(,,e  chase  and  caused  tli'eni  nianv  a 
.sleepless  ni^ht  I,y  his  innocvnt  ih.M.d.  niischi,.v;.„s 
pniuks       Ue   isth,.l..yuhouasahvavsn.a.lv  hu- 
ll in  rk  ol  any   kind  that  couhl  pi-odu.vcxcitcn.-Mit 
tuii,  or  adventure  ndthont  l),ino-i„o.  serious  haru,  t('> 
anyone.     I[h  was  not  the  vicious,   thievino,   ivi,,.- 
sncakini^hoy,  but  the  irrepressible,  uncoufrollabir 
wild,    harum-scarum   chap   who  led  the   o,n,....  the 
;'lim.ip,on   of  the   weak;  the   hoy  who  wouhf  tidit 
at  the  drop  ol  the  hat"   in  defense  of  a  JViend  of 

his  own  sex  (U- of  even  n  sn-an^er  of  the  opposite 
sex.  Ihese  a,e  the  br.ys  of  leu,  tueuty,  or  thirty 
years  ag<,  whom  to-day  y<,u  ,uay  hud  ridiu-  wild 
cayuses  on  the  cattle  raut^.s  of  the  boundless 
plains. 

As  a  class,  they  have  l)cen  shamefully  lualione.l 
Jliat  there  are  bad,  vicious  cliaracteis  amoimst'them 
caum.t  ],e  denied,  b.ir  that  many  of  the  uiunh-rs 
thefts,   arsons,   and  other  dei»redati..ns   whi.-h   are 
committed  iu  the   froutie,.  towns   and   <.har..ed   to 
cowboys,  are  really  committed  by  Indians,  bummers 
superannuated  l>uffalo  hunters,  and  other  han-.-rs 
on,  wlio  never  do  an  Jionest  day's  work  of  aiu"  khid 


<  i:risiX(;s    LV   TIIK   (ASCAnKs 


:A  s^i 


li  ^i 


but  \\  ho  eke  out  :i  Hiis(M';il)l<',  luill'-stiiiVfil  ('xist<'iu'(? 
by  giuiibliuii',  stealing',  iioisoiiiuii,'  wolves,  etc.,  is  a 
i'act  Avell  known  to  evt'iy  close  ytiidcnt  of  front ier 
life.  And  yet.  ci-iuics  and  niisdeincanoi-s  ai'c  occa- 
sioiudlv  coininitti'd  by  men  who  ai<',   for  the  time 


'-^y. 


'■'WH' 


.'J 


^^^h'':mt'^^t 


TllK    ■  Wdnl.I.V  foWHOV   ' 

beino;  at  least,  ivuularlv  employed  in  ridini>:  the 
range.  Fugitives  from  justice,  thieves,  cui-throats, 
and  hoodlums  of  all  classes  from  the  large  cities 
have  drifted  West,  and  have  songht  employment  on 
the  I'anges  because  nothing  better  or  more  con- 
genial oll'ei'(Ml;  but  snch  are  seldom  employed, 
and  if  enn)loved  at  all,  are  li'enei'allv  discharii'ed  as 
so(m  as  their  true  charactei'  is  learned  jind  their 
l^laces  can  be  Idled  l)y  Avorthier  men. 


A\I)    OTIIKK    Jn\TI.\<;    ADVKNTFHKS. 


:U)S) 


Xeitll.'i'  do  I  wish   todclViHl   tll<.    •MVesh"    y,„nio- 

man  IVomtheEa.st  who  ,o-oe.s  Wost  to  "  i-anilvze  " 
tile  natives,  who  o,.t,s  m  jol,  on  The  ran«'h,  niakes 
a  I'l-eak  i'or'Moiul  lo.us,-  arnis,  an<l  knives.  Jan-e 
niekel-i.lated  spurs,  raises  a  nnv  of  ](,nn.  Jiair  ai"^l 
'catclieson"  toall  thebadlaii-Hauv  of  ti'ie  country 
tilJs  Tip  on  ]>ad  whisky  at  .nvry  opportiinitv  and 
then  asserts  that  -lie's  a  wolf,  ifs  ],is  nii^ht  to 
howl. 

^'or  do  I  wish  to  defend  the  swarthy,  loud-oathed 
heavily-armed  -greaser"  of  Mexico  and  the  Texan 
ranges,  avIio  accounts  himself  a  --couhov"  /xn'e.rn-l- 
lence,  but  who  much  prefers  the  lilthv  atmosphere 
ot  the  gambling  ,h'n,  or  the  variety  diVe  of  Inmtier 
towns,  to  th(^  ])uie  air  of  the  praii'ies.     These  aie  the 
excepticms,  and  fortunately  are  in  a,  "  distinguished 
minority."  and  it  is  but  just  that  all  such  suaa<'vriiio- 
Iiiimbugs  should  be  loaded  with  the  oblo,p,y  they 
deserye,  and  should  be  a])propriately  branch'd,  eveii 
as  their  master's  l)easts  are  bi'aiKh'd,    that  all  the 
world  might  know  them,   wherever  found,   for  the 
infamous   humbugs    that   they   are.      My    puipose 
here  is  to  chamiuon  the   frank.    h(mest,\meruvtic 
industrious  young  fellows  Avlioeugage  in  tliis  c:dlin.'- 
from  pure  motives,  most  of  wh(»m  have  fair  educa^ 
tions,  an<l  some  of  wlioni  are  gra(biates  of  Eastern 
coUeges-who  are  brimful  of  j.ure  Jiorse-sens^s  and 
who  are  ambitious  to  earn  an  h«mest  living,  and  to 
make  themselves  useful  to  their  emi)]oyers  in  every 
possible  way,   aside  from  their  ability  to  snare  a 
bidhu'k.     Many  of  these  are  Nature's  Jiobh-men, 
and  their  good  qualities  shine  through  their  rouuh 
garb,  as  the  sunlight  of  heaven  shines  throu<'ira 


. 


810 


CIMlSINi.S    IN'    TIIK   (ASCADKS 


rift  ill  :i  <l;irk  cloud.  Tlicii'  hcai'ls.  iIkmiliIi  ciK'ased 
in  blue  llaiUK'l  or  \v:it»'r-i)ro()l'  cauvas,  aic  as  liniil 
as  tilt'  air  they  bivatlie;  their  iiiiiids  as  i)ure  and 
clear  as  ihe  niouiit;nii  brooks  from  which  ihey  love 
todrink;  liieir  whole  natures  as  generous  and  liberal 
as  the  l)ouiidless  iinvidows  upon  which  llieir  herds 
graze,  and  their  hospitality  only  limited  by  the 
supply  of  food  and  oilier  comforts  they  have  with 
which  to  eiiterttiin  a  visitor.     Straiiuei's  are  alwavs 

'  ^  a. 

Avelcoine  at  their  shacks,  and  no  inattei'at  what  time 
of  (hiv  or  ni<»lit  vou  arrive,  von  and  \()ur  liorses 
are  promptly  tals-eii  care  of,  you  are  invited  to  stay 
and  eat,  tosleepif  you  will,  andare]irom2)t]y  •••iven  to 
understand  that  the  best  the  ranch  affords  is  at  your 
ccmimand.  I  liave  known  many  of  these  men  inti- 
mately, and  liave  never  known  one  who  would  not 
clieerfullv  share  his  last  oiinc  *  of  food,  his  last  dol- 
lar,  or  his  onlv  blanket  with  a  needy  straimer;  or 
wlio  would  not  walk  and  allow  an  unfortunatelv 
dismounted  traveler  to  ride  his  horse  half  way  to 
cam}>,  or  the  ranch,  even  thouiih  that  might  be  a 
liundred   miles  awav.     Thev  invariably  refuse  jill 

«  ft  « 

remuneration  for  services  or  accommodations  of  such 
nature,  and  if  it  be  pressed  upon  them,  the  strange]-  is 
liable  to  be  told  in  language  more  expressive  than 
eh'gant  thev  don't  make  their  livinu'  bv  taking  care 

<>  »  C^  ft  O 

of  tenderfeet. 

As  u  class,  they  are  brimful  and  running  over  with 
Avit,  merriment,  and  uood  humor.     Tliev  are  alwavs 

7  ■  ^     '  ft.  «/ 

readv  I'or  anv  l)it  of  innocent  fun,  but  are  not  per- 

ft  ft  X. 

petiially  spoiling  for  a  light,  as  has  so  often  l>een 
said  of  them.  They  ai-e  at  peace  with  all  men,  and 
would  not  be  otherwise  from  choice.     As  a  rule,  if  a 


AND   OTHl  i;    IlINriNci    AI)\  K.NH   i;j;>. 


311 


man  (inanvl  with  one  of  tlu-ni.  lie  I'oircs  tlic  war  and 
isljiniscir  to  l)lani(3.  Tlieir  love  of  I'un  ol'lcii  loads 
to  trouhic,  thoiigli  generally  because  the  \iciiiii  of 
ir  docs  not  know  how,  or  is  not  willing,  to  eitlicf 
••clii))  in"  or  excuse  hiuiself.  Tliey  are  fond  of 
"  piping  oir*  anything  that  is  pai-ticidarly  conspic- 
uous, or  rice  versa,  no  matter  to  wlioni  it  helongs, 
and  they  dislike  to  see  snoltMsh  airs  assumed  in 
their  country,  though  such  might  pass  current  in 
any  Eastern  citv. 

1  once  saw  a  dude  stei)out  of  a  hotel  in  Chevenne 
Wealing  a  silk  hat.  cut-away  co:ii.  lavender  ]»an1s, 
liigh    i)ressure    collar,    scarlet    velvet    scarf.    i>atent 
leather  shoes,    etc.     Several    cowboys    weie    riding- 
through  tin'  street  and  sj)ied  him. 

"Say,  Dick,"  .sakl  one  of  them,  vwhat  ile  ye 
s'poseitis^' 

''Let's  tackle  it  and  see,"  said  Dick;  ""it  looks 
alive." 

"Pard,  hadn't  yon  better  put  them  togs  on  icef' 
queried  another  of  the  party.  "They're  Hable  to 
sp)ile  ill  this  climat(\" 

The  youth  was  highly  offended,  gave  them  a 
haught}-,  withering  look,  and  without  deigning  a 
reply  of  any  kind  turned  to  walk  back  into  the  hotel. 

'•Let's  brand  it,"  said  Dick,  and  as  quick  as  a 
flash  a  lariat  fell  about  the  d\uh\  closed  round  his 
slender  waist,  and  he  was  a  prisoner.  Tin'  boys 
gathered  round  him,  chall'ed  him  good-naturedly, 
took  his  hat  and  rubbed  the  nap  the  wrong  way.  ptit 
some  alkali  mud  on  hisshoes,  and  then  released  him, 
bidding  him  "go  in  and  put  on  some  clothes."  A 
little  good-natured  repartee  on  his  part,  (nan  invita- 


«p 


It 


1 


:jl-i 


(  i:ri.si.\»,>  IN    riiK  <  ascadks 


tiou  to  drink  or  smoke,  or  u  plcasnnr  r('i»ly  of  any 
kind,  \v.,uld  hnvf  Iff  liiin  out  wltlirmt  any  nnplras- 
ant  tivalnuMit;  l)iir  lit' scDi'iic  I  thcni,  and  llicy  <'on- 
.sidcivd  it  a  duty  to  society  to  ])()st  liini  (>n  how  loai't 
wIu'U  away  IVoni  liojn»>. 

A  I'licnd  iclatcs  iiavini;' sct'ii  an  ('('centric  individ- 
ual, with  a  loni;'  jilaid  ulster,  walking'  aloni;'  the 
principal  sti-eet  in  Miles  City,  and  as  the  sun  came 
out  rr(»in  Ix'hind  a  cloud  and  commenced  to  beam 
(h)wn  with  a  ^'ood  deal  of  I'oi'ce,  he  raised  a  <:reen 
uml>re]la.  A  "'cow  i»unclier'"  rode  u^)  unci,  pointing 
at  the  umbi'ella,  asked; 

'•  What  is  siie  i)ard^  I'Vt(di  iKn'inand  put  a  drink 
ill  "er." 

The  man  was  botli  scared  and  mad.  He  tliouuiit 
lie  had  been  insulted  l)y  one  of  tliose  "notorious, 
ruflianlv  cowhovs."  lie  called  "i.olice.""  J^)Ut  the 
])olice  was  not  at  liand,  and  in  the  disturbance  that 
followed  iiis  umbrella  was  spirited  away,  he  Iviiew 
not  whither  oi-  l»y  whom,  and  his  jilaid  ulster  was 
somewhat  damaged  by  contact  with  mother  eaith. 
All  he  woidd  have  had  to  do  to  pivserve  the  jx^ace 
and  his  self-respect,  would  have  been  to  answei'  the 
fellow  u'ood-naturedly  in  the  lirst  [)lace,  either 
declining  or  accepting  his  invitation,  and  he  could 
have  gone  on  his  way  unmolested;  but  he  brought 
a.  small-sized  riot  on  himself  l)v  assuming  a  diu'iiitv 
that  was  out  of  place  in  that  country  and  undersuch 
circumstances. 

In  common  with  all  other  human  l)eings,  the  cow- 
boy re([uires  and  must  have  amus(:'ment  of  some 
kind,  and  his  isolated  condition,  depriving  him  of 
the    privileges   of  theatres,    parties,    billiards,    and 


AM)    (CriiKK    lir.\TI.\(i    A1»\1:M  (UKS. 


•  >  I  .> 


otluT  vanities  of  jtmiiscmeiit  tliat  youn*;-  iiicu  in  the 
StiiK'SMsiiMlly  iiitliiliiciiuol'tli.'ivliiiiiiniiiKl  ivstrain- 
iii<^-iiitliit'ii('cs  ol"  til.'  IVmimIm  sex.  ii  is  hm  natural  that 
his  Hxiib.'ranct'  of  si>irir  should  lind  sport  ol'  othrr 
kinds.     His  only  sources  ol"  aiuuseiucnt  on  tlu' ranch 
arc  his  litl...  iwolv.-i'.  hronco,  lariat,  and  ca ids.  and 
incouisc  of  tinic  he  tiivs  ol'thcsc  jmd  scrksa  chanuc 
He  goes  to  town  and  niccts  there  some  of  his  coiu- 
rades  or  aciiuaintances.  and   they   indulge  in  some 
wild  pranks,  which  to  Kastern  people,  and  especially 
those  who  happen   to  fall  victims  to  their  i»ractieal 
jokes,    appear  ruflianly.     Their  love  of  excittinent 
and   ad\eniure   sometimes   gets  the  better  of  their 
judgment,  and  they  cany  tlu'ir  fun  to  excess.    They 
corral  the  crew  of  a  train  which  |,;,s  sTopi)ed  at  the 
station.  Mid  ninuse  themselves  juid  the  ])assengers  by 
making    the    conductor,    lu-akenian,     baggauvman, 
engineer,  and  lireman  dance  a  jig  t(»  then.usic  of  six- 
shooters.     In  one  instance  they  boarded  the  train 
and  made  the  Theo.  Thomas  orchestra  (which    ha})- 
l)ened  to  be  aboard)  give  them  an  extemporaneous 
concert.     Tiiey  havt'  even  been  known  to  carry  their 
revels  to  a  still  worse  stage  than  this,  and  to  ivsort 
to  acts  of  real  abuse  and  injury  against  defenseless 
people.     r>ut  such  acts  on  the  part  of  genuine  cow- 
])oys  are  rare.     They  are  usmilly  peri)et rated  by  the 
class,  already  mentioned,  of  '"  fresh"  young  cliaiis 
or  objecti(mal  characters  who  drift  into  the  business 
from  other  than   jmre  motives,  and  fre([uently  by 
pretended  cowboys  who  are  not  such  in  any  sejise  of 
the  term.   But  by  whomsoever  perpetrated,  such  acts 
are  liighly  offensive  to   and  vigorously   condemned 
by  the   respectable  element   in   the   business,  both 


814 


ri;il>l.\*rs  IN    iiii.  (  A.->(  Al»KS 


fiiiploycis  and  «'nii»l()y(''s.  Much  (»fliiiiii  lias  altafli^'d 
tiHliti  rialt'iiiity  by  .such  coiiduct,  and  luui'li  niuic 
bv  ivasoii  ol'  Clinics  coniinlltcd  Itv  ollicis  and 
('hai!j,'c(l  lo  this  cla.ss,  so  that  tlie  ('()\\l)(>y  is  in 
niucii  worse  i'c[)utt'  aiiKMi,";'  Eastern  jicnplt!  than  lie 
would  he  il'hcttci-  known  by  tiii'in.  And  notwitii- 
fstan(lin«j;  all  tluHiard  thin.ns  with  which  these  men 
ha\'H  l)een  chariied,  1  hail  much  rather  take  my 
<'hanc«rs,  as  to  safety  ol'lUc  ami  [teisonal  iti'ojiei'ty, 
in  a  country  inhabited  only  by  tlKMii  than  in  any 


i 


ON  THE  TKAll. 


Eastern  town  or  city  with  all  their  i)olice  "])rotec- 
tion."  When  sojouniinu'  in  cattle  countries,  1  have 
left  my  camp  day  after  (hiy  and  night  after  night, 
with  valnable  [)V()perty  of  vario'.is  kinds  lying  in  and 
about  it,  without  any  ;:ff<;m[»t  tit  concealment.  I 
have  left  my  liorses  and  nudes  to  graze,  wholly 
unguarded,  several  (hiys  and  nights  together,  and 
though  on  my  return  T  may  have  seen  that  my  camp 
had  been  visited,  probably  by  several  men,  not  a 
thing  had  been  distuibed,  exc(^i)t  that  perchance 
some  of  them  had  been  hunu-rvand  had  eaten  a  meal 


,■  I 


AM)   nTlli;i!    IN  .M|\(,    A  l»\  |;mi  |;i;,s. 


:!ir. 


JII    Miy  .'XfM'Ils...       If   is  Ww  cilsK.l,,    or    ll„.    CMintl'V  t., 

l<':iv*M':inii..s;iii(lciil)ii,s;il  -•111 y  I iiii,.,  :,n.l  lor jis  |,,m- ii 
lliii.'ns  iHM-..ss:iry.  uitlioiii  lo.-kiiiu.  „,,,„•, •on,-,  ;ili,„Ti,t 
<•!  :iiiy  kind,  :iihI  iiisfniKvs  of  .sf..:,lii,n-  n,,,],.,.  snd, 
('iiriiiMstMiKvs  :ii,.:,|,,|nsi  !iiili,-:ii.|  ,,C.  ulijj,.  |„.  ^^|,,, 
would   |,.:iv.-   |H-isoi,;,I    pioiMMly    simihirlv  .■xi,(,s..,l 

Nviiliin  111.' ])oi.ii.|s,,r,.i\iiiz:,(ion  would  sc'iinvlvli.. OH 
to  liiid  ii  on  his  ictiini. 

^  An  iii('i<l,.|if  in:iy  shiv."  i,,  illiistnit.'  how  siid,j,.nly 

K:|st..|M     1M"0|.1..     cliiiiiMv    iJH.j,.   ..piiiinus    ,,r    ,.(,ulM,y'.s 

on    close   Mc.|u:iint;iii(v.       |    w;is  u'oinu-  w..st    ;i    c'w 
yr-Ais  siii.v  oi,  the  Xorthriu    P.Mrilic  Ridlrond,  :in<l 
fticppiii-  (AY    the   tiiiiii    ill     OickiiisoM,   J).Mk.,    mot 
Ilowjird  K;itoii,  iiiiold-tinir  IVicnd  jiiid  fellow  hiuiter 
n  tyi)icMl  cowboy,   who   li;,s  elKiin,.  of  a  ranch  :iii(i 
Jl   iMl'oe  lierd  of   (■.Mltl,.  inilie   ••  l',;id  Lands  "•  on   ihe 
Litih'  .Missouri  rivrr.     ]j,.  was  divssed  in  ih.' le-u. 
lalioncosr,imeortliecrafl-c:,nviisp:,nts:ind  jnck^.t, 
h-Mhvr  (■//(  I /HI  re  Jos,    blue  Haiiiiel  shin.    ;ind  biond- 
l»"'ninied  white  felt   lint.      His  loins  were  uirt  .'il.olit 
Willi  a  well-lilled  c:irtri(lne-j)elt.  from  which  Jiiiiiu- 
liic  Mx-shooter,  Avliidi  may  almost  Ix-  termed  a  bnd-e 
of  the  or.h'r.      Lnr-e  Mexican  spurs   rattled  at   his 
heels  as  lie  walked.     1I,>  had  rid.h-n  thirty-live  miles 
under  the  spur,  airivino.  at  tlx' st.-ilion   just  in  time 
to  catch  the  train,  and  havin-  no  tim..  t(')  chnn-'v  his 
iU)parel,  even  if  he  had  wished  i,,  d<.  so.      He  was 
^•oino- some  distance  on  the  same  train,  and  1  invited 
liini  into   the  sh^^per.     As  he   enlere.l   an<l  walked 
down  the   aisle   the    i)assenoeis   became    sud(h"nly 
alarmed  at  the  uj)parition— ima.uinini;.  thnt  tin-  train 
had  been  corrnled  by  a  i)arty  of  the  terrible  cowboys 
of  whom  they  had  heard  such  blood-cui'dling  tales 


;ji() 


CKI'Isr.\(;s    IN"    TIIK   CASCAIVKS 


ait 


£111(1  that  this  was  ji  coininittoe  of  one  sent  in  to 
order  them  to  throw  up  their  liands.  They  looked 
anxious!  V  and  tiinidlv  from  the  windows  for  the  rest 
of  tlie  ganii"  and  listened  for  the  i)opi)ing  of  r^'volv- 
ers,  hut  when  I  conducted  iiini  to  our  section  and 
introduced  him  to  my  wife  they  began  to  feel  easier. 
He  remarked  casuallv  tiiat  he  was  hnnn'rv.  We 
had  a  well-filled  lunch-basket  with  us,  ;iud.  ordering 
a  table  placed  in  position,  my  wife  hastily  spread  its 
contents  before  him.  lie  ate  as  onlv  a  cowboy  can 
eat,  es[)ecially  after  having  lately  ridch'U  thirty-live 
miles  in  three  hours.  Our  fellow  passengers  l)ecame 
interested  spectators,  and  after  our  friend  had 
finished  his  repast  we  introduced  him  to  several  of 
them.  They  were  agreeably  sui'i)rised  to  discover  in 
conversation  his  polished  manners,  liis  tluent  aiK^ 
well-chosen  language.  His  handsome  though  sun- 
burned face,  and  his  kind,  genial  nature  r^n'ealed 
the  fact  that  his  rough  garb  encased  the  form  of  an 
educated  and  cultured  gentleman;  and  before  we 
had  been  an  hour  together  they  had  learned  to 
i-esi)ect  and  admire  the  wild,  picturescpie  character 
whom  at  first  they  had  feared. 

The  skill  which  some  of  these  men  attain  in  their 
profession  challenges  the  admiration  of  everyone 
who  is  [)ermitted  to  witness  exhibitions  of  it.  As 
riders  they  can  not  be  excelled  in  the  world,  and  I 
have  seen  some  of  them  perform  feats  of  horseman- 
shi[)  that  were  simply  marvelous,  A  cowboy  is 
recjuired  to  ride  anything  that  is  givn  hiui  r.nd  ask 
no  questions.  A  wild  young  bronco  that  has  never 
l>een  touched  by  the  hand  of  man  is  sometimes 
roped  out  of  a  herd  and  handed  over  to  one  of  the 


AND  (tTiiLi:  iirxTixd  Ai>\i;.\Triii:s. 


:n 


hoys  with  instructions  to  "ridp  lam/'     With  tiie 
aid  ol'  a  companion  or  two  he  suddh-s  and  mounts 
him,  and  the  scene  tJmt  ensues  baffles  description. 
A  bucking  cayiise  must  l)e  seen  unih^-  the  sa<hl]e, 
iimUn-  a  limber  cowboy,  and  on  his  iiativ  hea'li.  in 
ordin'  to   be  appreciated   at   iiis   true   woi-tli.     His 
movements  are   not  always   tjie  sam.'-in  hwt,  are 
extremely  varied,  and    aie  duubtle.vs  intend,.,!   to 
bo  a  series  of  s-u'piises  even  to  an  old  Jiand  at  the 
business    The  brcmco  is  inuvnious— lie  is  a  strategist 
S(jmetimes  the  iirst  break  a  '•  fresh"  one  makes  is  to 
try  to  o-et  out  of  the  country  as  fast  as  possible. 
If  so,  the  rider  allows  Mm  to  ,<:o  as  far  and  as  fast 
as  he  likes,  for  itothij;- will  tam,^  him  quicker  timn 
plenty  of  hard  work.     J3ut  he  soim  liiids  that  he  can 
not  net  out  from  nnder  his  loa.l  in  this  wav,  and 
generally  leverses  his  tactics  befoie  n-o},io.  fai'.  's<,jHe- 
timeshe  stops  sud(l,:'iily—s,)  su,ldenlv  ;is  lo  tlii-ow 
an  inexperienced  rider  a  Ion-  ways  in' front  of  him. 
But  a  good  cowl)oy.  or  ''bronco  bustei."  as  he  would 
be  tei-med  while  engaged  in  this  branch  of  the  busi- 
ness, is  a  good  stayer  and  keeps  his  s,'at.    The  horse 
may  then  try  to  jump  out  from  under  his  rider- 
first  forwai'd  then  backward,  or  rire  rcr.v^     Then 
he  may  spring  suddenly  sidewise,  either   to  ri-ht 
or  left,    or    both.      TIkmi    he   mav   do  some   l,>l-ty 
tumbling  acts,  alighting  most   alwa\s  stiifdeiiued; 
sometimes  with  his  front  en,l  the  hin"h,.st  aii<l  .s^'.me' 
times  about  level,  but  usually  with  his  himl.^r  parts 
much   the   hiuli,Ast  and   with  h;,   back  arched  like 
that   of    a   mad   cat.      He  keeps  his   n,)se  as  ch.se 
to  thegrcmnd  as  h^  can  get  it.     Som,.times  h,.  will 
Utter  an  unearthly  scpieai  that  makes  one's  blood 


318 


("IMISIXCIS    I.V    Til  10    CASCADES 


nm  cf)l(l,  and  will  iicrnnllv  eat  Ji  few  mouthfiils  of 
tliH  (^aith  when  lie  gets  mad  eiioiigli.  Sonietiines 
he  will  throw  hiinst'lj'  in  his  sliMiiiii'les,  and  again 
as  a  last  resort  lie  will  lie  down  and  roll.  This 
must  free  him  for  a  moment,  but  the  daring  and 
agile  rider  is  in  the  saddle  again  as  soon  as  the  beast 
is  on  his  i'ept.  Then  the  liorse  is  likely  to  wheel 
suddenly  from  side  to  side  and  to  spin  I'oiind 
and  I'oiind  on  his  hind  feet  like  a  top;  to  snort 
and  bound  hither  and  thither  like  a  rubber  ball. 
During  all  this  time  the  valiant  rider  sits  in  his 
saddle,  loose-jointed  and  limp  as  a  piece  of  buckskin, 
his  body  swaying  to  and  fro  with  the  motions  of  his 
struggling  steed  like  a  leaf  that  is  fanned  by  the 
summer  breeze,  lie  holds  a  tight  rein,  keeping  his 
liorse's  head  as  high  as  possible,  and  plunges  the 
I'owels  into  his  Hanks,  iirst  on  one  side  and  thi-n  on 
the  other,  until  frecpieiitly  the  ground  is  coi)iously 
si)rinkled  with  the  blood  of  the  tiery  steed.  The 
duration  of  this  scene  N  limited  sinn)ly  bv  the 
powers  of  endurance  of  the  horse,  for  in  nearly 
every  instance  he  will  keep  up  his  struggles  until 
he  sinks  upon  the  ground  exhausted,  and,  for  tln^ 
time  being  at  least,  is  subdued.  Then  he  is  forced 
14)011  his  feet  again  and  may  generally  be  ridden  the 
remainder  of  that  day  without  further  trouble. 

He  is  awkward,  of  course,  but  ra})idly  learns  the 
nse  of  bit  and  spur,  and  soon  becomes  useful.  Many 
of  these  ponies,  liowever,  are  never  perr.ianently 
subdued,  and  will  "buck'"  every  time  they  are 
mounted.  Others  will,  all  through  life,  start  oft' 
(piietly  when  iirst  mounted,  but  suddenly  take  a 
noticiii  to  buck  any  time  in  the  day.     This  class  is 


AM)    OTIIKi:    nrXTIXc;    ADVK.NTIKKS. 


310 


tlip  most  (lani-erous,  t'oi-  the  best  i'i,|,M-  is  ]\nh]o  to  ho 
caiio-l,t  at  a  disadvanta.u-e  wIkmi  oil;'  his  u.|,;,,,i  .„i,i 
thi'own,  and  many  a  {,o(,i-  cuwUn  has  1„vmi  cripph-d 
ior  life,  and  many  killed  outni-lit  l)v  these  vicious 
brutes. 

1    have   seen    -piln-nms"    invel-led    iuto    n,li,i„. 
'•I'lickm-  cay  us.-  ••  either  for  the  sake  of  noveltv'^ 
or  because  tiiey  wanted  amount   and  there  was  no 
other  tol.e  had;  but  in  everv  iustan<'e    the  trial  of 
•skdl  between  the  luau  an<l  the   ponv  was  of  short 
(.iiration.     For  an  instant  there  wouU'l  be  a  (onfused 
mass  of  horse,  hat,  coat-tails,  boots,  and  man,  ilvino- 
through  the  air.     The  horse,  on  his  second  upward 
tiip   woidd  meet  the  man  comin-  <lown  on  his  iirsf 
the  man   would   see   whole    constellatLons  — whole 
mdkyways  of  stars;  the   liorse  would  meander  off 
over  the  prairie  free  and  imtianieled.   and  as  we 
woidd  gather  up  the  deformed  and  dislioured  remains 
of  the  pilgrim   and  dig  the  alkali   <lirt  out  of  his 
mouth,  ears,  and  eyes,  he  would  tell  us,  as  soon  as 
he  recovered  sufficiently  to  be  able  to  speak,  that  in 
luture  he  ''had  rarlier  walk  than  ride." 

But,  fortunately  for  the  poor  cowboys,  there  are 
many  of  these  ponies  who  are  n<.t  vicious,  and  let  us 
do  full  honor  to  the  g-nuine,  nol)le  cow  horse  who 
IS  so  sure  and  fleet  of  foot  tha;  he  will  speedily  put 
his  rider  within  roping  distam-e  of  the  wil.h^st,  swift- 
est, longestdiorned  Texan  on  th(^  range.  .Such  a  hoi-s,^ 
always  knows  when  the  riafa  falls  right  for  head  or 
heels,  and  if  it  does  not  will  never  slacken  his  speed 
but  keep  right  on  until  his  rider  can  recover  ami 
tlirow  again.  But  when  it  does  fall  fair,  he  puts  it 
taut,  wheels  to  right  or  left  as  directed  l)v  a  gentle 


:v2i) 


('UriSIX(iS    IX   TIIK    CA^-.CADES. 


I 


pi't'ssui-*'  of  his  ri(l','i'*s  knee,  tnkes  a  turn  on  it  or 
i;,•i^  cs  ir  slack  as  may  l)e  required  to  down  tlie  bent", 
and,  wiien  this  is  acconiplislied,  stands  .stift'-leg,n'e(', 
firm,  Jind  immovahk^  as  a  rock,  hokling  him  (h)\vn 
by  the  strain  on  tlie  lope,  and  watching,  with  eyes 
bulged  out  and  ears  set  forward  like  those  of  a  jack 
rabbit,  every  struggln  of  the  captive  bnllock,  and 
.stands  | ;  ni  when  his  rider  dismounts  and  leaves 

liim  to  bra       the  steer.     Wlien  this  is  done,  '.-.nd  his 


m  1 1 


I1 1 1 ' 


;.i^ 


"^^N^\^r•:l).•' 


rider  remounts  he  is  ready  to  repeat  the  operation 
on  another  animak 

I  have  frequently  known  a  cowboy  to  rojte  a 
Avild  cow.  throw  her  and  milk  her  while  his  hoi'se 
held  her  down  at  the  other  end  of  a  forty  foot 
I'ope.  Suv'h  a  liorse  is  worth  his  weight  in  gold 
to  a  cattleman,  and  hiskind-heaited  and  ajjpreciative 
rider  would  go  supperless  to  Ix-d  any  night,  if  nec- 
essary, in  order  that  his  faithful  st(^ed  slunild  be  Avell 
fed  iind  made  comf(n'table  ii!  evei'v  i^ossible  wav. 

The  skill  that  some  of  these  men  attain  in  the  use 
the  lariat  is  also  most  marvelous.  An  expert  will 
catch  a  steer  l)y  the  horns,  the  neck,  the  right  or 


I'H  Oil  it  or 

"11  tile  henl", 
tift'-le<i'o',.(i^ 

him  (Iowa 
,  Avitli  eyes 
e  of  a  j;i('k 
lloek,  jiiul 
Jiiid  leaves 
le.  r.iid  his 


oiierntion 

^   ro])e   a 
his  horse 
:)i'ty  foot 
^  ill  gold 
)re('iative 
t,  if  iiec- 
d  be  Avell 
wa  V. 
11  the  use 
[»ert  will 
right  or 


AXI)   OTuKll    lU'STISO   ADVKXTrinO^  ^ 

left  fore  foot  or  hind  foot,  whiehever  he  mny  elioose- 

a^ui  AAhi  e  ruiimiigat  full  spee.l-uith  almost  uner- 

ing  certainty.     1  have  eAen  seen  them  rope    |aek 

^bbits  ami  eoyotes  after  a  long  run,  and  tl  ere'  uv 

>ell  au  iH^ntieated  instances  on'rec-ord  of  even  be    s 

-mg  eolu.     to   death   by  the  fatal   noose     ^^ 
Avielded  by  a  daring  '-  knight  of  the  plains  '" 

At  a  -tournament"  in  a  Black  Hills  town  some 
months  ago,  a  cowboy  cauoht   thi-ew   .,,..1 

ot  skill,  but  on  a  bronco  instead  „f  a  stper,  which 
.tely  took  plac.  in  a.  New  Mexico  town.    .        1' 
descnbeil  by  an  eye  witness 

.,lin,f' Ir'  •'",'"'":■  '■''  '"^'■"^■•'i""  ••'"'1  pleasant  wran- 
gling, the  jndge,  hiniseir  a  line  rider,  called  ont  the 
name  ot  an  Arizona  cowboy,  a  champion  ,.,    ,.    ^ 
and  rnstler  iron,    Apac^lie  Conntv ;    at    the  s.  ,  e 
numient  a  wild-eye,l  bronco  ,.ns  .'elease,!  i  l.n 
pen  and  went  bonnding  and  lun^kint' over  the  niin- 
i;itnre  plain.     According  to  tlie  rule,  the    Vpaclie 
Connty  man  had  to  sa.ldle  his  own  bronco,  rop 
fleeing  horse,  and  tie  him  for  bran.ling  in  a  c  -rt     , 
time.     Being  a    -'rnstler."    he  rnslled   ar,  n  „ 
lively  that  before  the  bronco  was  two  hnn.I         fe' 
away,  he  had  saddled  and  bridled  his  own  animal 
s-nng  himself  onto  it.  and  «as  otf.  gathering  np  lis 
lariat   as   he  w.mt.     The   other  bronco,  sc^n-     C 
con.mg  enemy,  doubled  his  pace,  .lodging  I,,.;  and 
there,  but  at  e,  «ry  turn  he  was  met  b?  h  s  pnrsner 
wlio  was  evidently  directed  by  his  rider's  le-s     n d 
m  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time  the  fno-i      J 
«-as  overlmnled;  the  rope  whistled  ihrongh  the  air 


I 

li 


1 

. 

k 

1 

i 

jli 

■l:! 

M 

32^ 


cuuisiN(;s  IX  THE  cascades 


and  (lr()pp<'(l(iiiiekl\'  over  the  bronco' sliead,  notwitli- 
stundini'- 1  lie  toss  lie  liad  made.  The  instant  it  i'ell, 
tlie  }»ui'siiiM,i;'  bronco  I'lishcdand  lieaded  off  tlie  other, 
winding  the  i'oi)e  about  liis  ]e,iis;  tht'ii  siuhh'nly  sit- 
ting back  uiK)n  his  hannclics  lie  waited,  with  ears 
back,  for  the  sliock.  It  came  with  a  rush,  and  the 
little  hoi'se  at  the  otlun-  end  of  the  rope,  as  was  the 
intention,  went  headlong  onto  the  lield,  the  cowboy's 
bronco  holding  him  d(>wn  by  the  continual  strain 
that  he  kept  up.  The  moment  the  horse  went  down 
the  cowboy  vaulted  from  the  sachlle,  untying  a  rope 
from  Ids  waist  as  he  ran,  and  was  soon  over  the 
l)rostrate  animal,  Lishing  the  lioofs  Avitli  dextrous 
lingers,  so  that  it  could  have  ])een  branded  then  and 
tiiere.  This  accomplished,  up  went  Ids  hands  as  a 
signal  to  the  judges,  who  now  came  galloping  over 
the  held,  a  roar  of  cheers  and  yells  gi'eeting  the 
Apache  County  man,  who  had  doiK^  the  entire  work 
in  twelve  minutes,  thereby  securing  the  i)rize  of 
sundry  dollars." 

These  men  use  large,  heavy,  strongly-built  saddles, 
and  l)y  setting  the  cinch  up  tight  and  taking  a  turn 
or  two  of  the  rope  around  the  Laddie  horn  they  will 
snake  a  large  animal,  either  dead  or  alive,  any 
desired  distance.  I  once  got  one  of  them  to  drag  a 
large  bear  that  we  had  killed  out  of  a  thicket  into 
an  open  space,  so  that  we  coidd  photograph  him. 

Few  men  take  more  chances  or  endure  more  hard- 
ships than  cowboys.  In  addition  to  the  dangers 
they  have  to  contend  with  from  riding  vicious  horses 
and  from  riding  into  stampeding  herds  of  wild  cattle, 
in  both  of  which  lines  of  duty  many  of  them  are 
crippled  and  some  killed  outright,  it  is  frequently 


AND  ..Tin:i:  in  mix,;  auvkxii  in;,-..         ;«:! 

•oughw,.atlu.r,witlMH,,,rl,,,MuoU:,.i,,,,li,  ; 

tlif'ycimc,„T.v,.iith,.irs,.MI,. 

Theshnigor  ll„.  fr.-,(,.n,it.v   is  l,i«l,lv  ,„„„si„„-  to 

(o  tli«  f,.„-  ,ll„sfratm„.  ,,liva,l.v  o-iv,.,,  in  tl.is  sk,.f 
her,,  are  „,a„y  ofl.,.rs   t|,at  „„ul,l   l„,  „„;,;;,' 
.■liable  to  an  Easteni  „.„,  nnU-ss  translate        i'  r 
;astan,,-;.  ,v„en  ,„ey  l,ran,l  an  anin.ai     I  ;^    „t  'Z 

t'lf-J  w V     put  son.,,   iiniption  in   it":   uli,.n   thev 
|«.rni  nj,  a  l.orso  ,vit|,  ti,,,  spurs  or  ,,uir   tl  ev' •  f     -^ 
urn:   when  tljey  tl.row  l,.a,l  iVon, ,   six-     .,  .te,       a 
M,n..hesteraftera  Hying  ,.oyote  thevfa,,-    I    „ 
And    'goose  Imir  ••-ev.-r  sleep  on  goo;,.  l,a  '     Tl  w 
^s      tavonteterm  for  any  Idn.l  ol a  ".soft  snap  " 
W    en  they  want  to  ri.li.-ule  a  ten,lerfoot,  an.l    L 
••■nlly  one  who  is  fon.l  of  good  living,  tl„.v  "av  '  he 

'0  IS  nliekhe  ,s  <les<u-il,e<l  as  having -a  .n.ose 
lair  pillar,'    or  as  -sleepin'  with    the  hoss  "Ct 

•ncin'  tea  horses,-  ete.  Altogether,  ,-oul,ovs  re  a 
whole-sonle.1  hirge-hearte-l,  generot.  <.las  -.  f  m"^ 
lows,  vvhon,  ,t  is  a  genuine  ,,l,.asure  to  ri,le  ea  ■  nl 
associate  with.  aa,l  iris  „.,-  ""  .  <  at.  .iml 


fet 


of  tlie  liard  things  that  have  1 

oome  from  men  who  never  knew.'iui'i'nlatel 
one  or  them. 


o  say  that  iiine-tenrhf 
)eeii  said  oi'  them  Jiave 


y,  a  sino-le 


I  conteml  that 


!i  year  spent  on  the  liurricane  deck 


if 


Ik 


ifi 


li 


Iv 


iv 


I: 


\ 


'I  i 

.1  ! 


:i:>4 


ClMISINiiS    IN     IIIK    CASCADKS 


of  ii  c(nv-iK)ny  is  one  of  tlu'  most  useful  Jiud  vnlunble 
pieces  of  expeiienee  si  young  man  can  possibly  have 
in  iitling  himself  for  business  of  almost  any  kind, 
and  if  I  were  educating  a  boy  to  light  tlie  l)attles  of 
life,  I  should  S(M'ure  him  such  Ji  situaticm  as  soon 
as  through  with  his  studies  at  school.  A  term  of 
service  on  a  frontier  cattle-ranch  will  take  the  con- 
ceit out  of  any  boy.  It  will,  at  the  same  time,  teach 
him  self-ieliance;  it  will  teach  liini  to  enduie  hard- 
ships and  suffering;  it  will  give  him  nerve  and 
l)luck;  it  will  develop  the  latent  energy  in  him  to  a 
degree  that  could  not  l)e  accouiplished  l)y  any  other 
apprenticeship  or  experience.  I  know  of  many  of  the 
most  substantial  and  successful  business  men  in  the 
Western  towns  and  cities  of  to-day  who  served  their 
first  years  on  the  frontier  as  "cow  punchers,''  and  to 
that  school  thev  owe  the  firmness  of  character  and 
the  ability  to  surmount  great  obstacles  that  have 
made  their  success  in  life  possible. 

I  claim  that  the  constant  communion  with  Nature, 
the  study  of  her  broad,  pure  domains,  the  days  and 
nights  of  lonely  cruising  and  camping  on  the  prairie, 
the  uninterrupted  communion  with  and  study  of 
self  which  this  occupation  affords,  tends,  to  make 
young  men  honest  and  noble — much  more  so  than 
tlie  same  men  would  l)e  if  deprived  of  these  oppor- 
tunities, confined  to  the  limits  of  our  boasted  '"civ- 
ilization,"' and  compelled  to  constantly  })i'eathe  the 
air  of  adroitness,  of  strategy,  of  competition,  of 
suspicion  and  crime.  I  claim  that  in  many  instances  a 
man  who  is  already  dishonest  and  immoial  mav  be, 
and  I  know  that  many  have  been  made  good  and  hon- 
est by  freeing  themselves  from  the  evil  influences  of 


AM>    OTIIKI;    HINTING    Al.V  KXlr  1!KS.  iHS 

Aatme.(„,a      If  ,.v,.,y  youns  n,nn  mis,.,!  in  .„wn 

Mio„l,l  Imvo  mor,.  lionest  ni.-n,  and  f,nver  defaulters 
thieves,  and  ciiniinal.s  „[  every  class  ""'"'"'''». 


I 


I 


if 


H;! 


I 


CUAJ^TKIJ  XWl, 


t'xciti'  lilt'  (Iciii/.fii  <»r  lilt'  Stall's  who  lii^t 
^^  {ittciuls  a  i(Hiii(lii|i  oil  lilt' •^rcat  ])]aiiis  lliat 
I  jun  tcinittt'd  to  sjifak  of  >(»mii' of  tlic  more  proiiii- 
iKMit  ])()iiit.s  ill  this  ••  liicatt'st  show  on  earth."  lor 
the  Ix'iielit  oL'  sticli  as  lia\«'  not  had  thf  iili'asiiic  of 
Avitnessinii'  it. 

Tlit^   iiitcrt^sts   of    cattlt'iiit'ii    in     u't'iifinl    :ii''     so 
t'h)selv  liiikt'd.  ami    llu'if  is  such  iirufiii    iit'iij  of  a 

I. 

conctM't  of  uctioii  Minoiiu'  tlifin.  thai  in  all  Wcstfin 
catth'-growiiiu"  disti'icts  tlifv  liavf  oiuaiii/t<l  into 
local  or  gviuM'al  associations,  in  which  tin' iiio-^t  iici-- 
fc<'t  liarnioiiy  and  u'ood  fellow sjiip  *  isis.  anil  in 
whicli  the  intcrcsrs  of  cvci-y  iinlivitliial  nn'iiiltcr  arc 
ch)selv  guarded  nn'l  rostci'ctL  hv  llic  orua:ii/ation  as 
a  wlioU'.  These  associations  meet  in  the  sjninu"  ami 
fall  of  each  Year  and  tix  th(Mlat<'S  for  iioltlinu-  the 
i'oumlu[)s,  usually  prescrihiiiii'  the  ,u'eneral  ])ouml- 
iU'ies  in  which  each  local  outfit  shall  work.  Thespi-inu,' 
roundup,   which   is   the  oiif  now    undci'  considt:'ra- 


Ci-^T) 


I  A 


:V2H 


(•|M"lSI\(iS    I.V     llli;    CASCADKS 


tion.  is  held  in  tlif  iMttci'  i);irl  of  Ainil  ov  t'jirly  piirt 
of  Mjiv  ill  Wvouiliii;'  and  Montana,  and  earlier  or 
later  in  otiier  States  and  Territoiies,  accoi'din,!;'  to 
the  natnie  of  the  cllinate,  weatlier,  ete.  A  roundnp 
district  is  nsnaily  limited  to  the  valley  of  some  lar<;-e 
stream,  or  its  bounchiries  are  designated  hy  other 
prominent  and  well  Iviiown  landmarks. 

From  liv«f  to  fifteen  miles,  or  even  more,  earli  way 
from  the  ranch,  are  claimed  })V  each  owner  or  com- 
l»any  as  a  ran^ne,  thon,<!:li  no  ell'ort  is  made  usually 
to  keej)  the  stock  within  these  boundaries.  They 
are  allowed  the  freedom  of  the  hills  and  tahledands 
in  everv  direction,  the  foreman  merelv  ])eini'' 
required  to  know  about  where  to  lind  them  wlu"^ 
wanted,  and  to  prevent  them  from  .li'oing,  for  instance 
west  of  the  Touiiue  and  north  of  the  Yellowstone 
rivers  or  south  into  \Vyomin<;\ 

As  a  typical  sprin<^  roundup,  let  us  observe  the 
one  recently  conducted  on  the  Powder  river  in 
^Montana,  for  it  furiushed,  perhaps,  as  many  interest- 
ing episodes  and  incich'Uts  as  ;ire  usually  seen  at  one 
of  these  entertainments.  This  stream  rises  in  the 
]5ig   IIoiii  Mountains  in  Northern  Wvomim 


and 

Hows  nortiieast  thr(»ugh  Southern  Montana  to  the 
Yellowstone,  Into  which  it  empties  its  wealth  of 
crystal  iluid  just  east  of  ]Miles  City.  Up  to  a  few 
Years  a<io  its  valley  and  adjacent  table-lands  were 
l)(M)pled  (mly  by  roving  bands  of  Sioux,  Cheyenne, 
Pegau,  or  Crow  Indians,  while  vast  herds  of  buffa- 
loes and  antelopes  grazed  upon  its  nutritious  grasses. 
The  lordly  elk  and  the  timid,  agile  deer  roamed  at 
will  through  the  groves  of  cottonw^ood  and  box-elder 
that  fringe   its  banks,  and  the    howl  of   the  coyote 


A.N'I)    HTlIKij    IICNTFN*;    A  I>V]:\T|- I'KS. 


32:> 


iniHl.'Ui-lit  imisi.-al   to  tli.'r;,r  ..!'  I  hr  ,s;,vai;v  i.i   his 
Nvi;;uMin.     ]iut    li(.u'cli:muv.l    tli,.  sc.-iin  ot   today' 
All  iron  niiln.M.l  hiid;.-,.,  tliarol'  t  h..  n.|,,,t  N(,rrli.  ni 
1  .-intK',  si.iins  til.'  sfiviim  urnv  its  month,  over  wliich 
n.ll  tiMiiis  of  pahMvcoachrsar  short  intervals,  while 
<'«>nnn.'irial  i'lvi.uhts  en  ronfe  IV.,.i.   the  Atlantic    to 
iIh'  I^acilic,  ov  r/re  ver.sti,  [.ass  ovei- it  almost  everv 
ioiir.     From  the  n.outh  of  the  stream  to  the  fo„t'- 
liill.s   of    tlie    monntain  ran-e,    amid    uhose    sn,)w- 
'•.■•pped  peak.s  it  rises,  is  i.ou-  u  we||-l,eaten  road  over 
Avhicii  supplies  for  the  varions  ranches  in  the  valley 
are  carried,  and  over  which    the  nalhuit   kni-hts  o^f 
tile  plains -tiie    (•.)U'l)oys-dash   to  and  IVu  in   the 
pei'lormance  of  their  various  duties. 
>   At  intervals  of  ten  to  lifteen  nnles  aloim-  the  val- 
ley, the  traveler  j.asses   lanches,  the   headcpiaiters 
of  tne  wealtliy  cattlemen  whose  ]i,>rds  roam  all  over 
llu!   vaHeys,   the  hills,    and    tahle-lands    for   manv 
miles  111  every  direction,  desionatin-  tlie  compani,^s 
or  individual   owners  mendy   by   th.«  brands    tjieir 
herds  l)Par  (wiiich    is   the  custom  of   the  country). 
Ue  shall  encount(M'  on  our  way  tlu'  "MC"  outiit 
wiiose  herd  numbers  fourteen  thousand  head;   the 
'"WL"    brand,    six    thousand    head;    "7()L'''one 
thousiind  head;    -S-T,"  tuenty^tlve  thousand  liead; 
•A,     twenty-five  thousand  h<'ad;    ^'EE,"  five  thou- 
sand head;  and  many  other  smaller  and  some  lar-er 
herds.      The   buildin-s   and    impiovements   consist 
^■enei-ally  of  substantial,  roomy  Ion-  houses,  stables 
tor  the  liorses,    corrals   ov  stron-    vai'ds   in   which 
large  lierds  of  cattle  may  be  confined  for  brandino- 
etc.     The  Montana  Stock  (xrowers'  Association  lias 
also  built  public  brandino-.pens  at  intervals  of  four 


:■! 


',V.]\ ) 


CIM   lSr\(.S    I\    'ri!K    <  AS<AI)1> 


»►;, 


to  six  Mil'  's  along  the  river.  'Vho  owners  o!.'  the 
stociv  seldom  live  on  tli(^  lanches  themselves,  many 
of  them  })eiiig  residents  of  ICnstern  cities,  and  others 
having  their  lumies  in  the  I'ailroad  towns  within 
convenient  distance  of  the  lanches.     The  occnpants 


o 


f  th( 


diack 


as    I  he  ranch  house  is  called,  are 


the  foreman,  the  cook,  and  a  sullicient  niiniber  of 
cowl)oys  or  lierders  to  h)ok  after  ami  handle  the 
stock  proj)erly.  Some  of  the  choice  bits  of  natural 
meadow  are  fenced  and  hay  cut  on  them,  and  each 
ranch  has  inoi(M>r  less  h;iy  land  ahout  the  heads  of 
creeks  on  its  I'anue,  for  it  is  necessary  to  make 
hiiy  enough  each  season  to  feed  at  least  the  calves 
and  some  of  the  w(-aker  cattle  tlu'ough  the  severe 
blizzards  that  so  frequently  occur  in  winter.  The 
cattle  belonging  to  each  of  these  ranches  are  allowed 
to  range  almost  at  will  ov<>r  the  adjacent  hills  and 
t'lble-lands,  though  the  limits  jjroper  of  each  range 
are  sui)[)osed  to  extend  ten  to  fifteen  miles  in  each 
direction  from  the  ranch  hous(\ 

Tlu^  Montana  Stock  (ii'owers'  Association,  at  its 
meeting  in  March,  designated  the  seventh  day  of 
j\Iav  as  the  dav  for  beuinnini;'  the  I'oundui)  in  ihe 
Powder  river  district  this  year,  and  selected  a  fore- 
man to  take  charge  of  it  who  had  seen  nianv  \ears 
of  service  in  the  saddle,  who  has  a  happy  faculty  of 
controllin.ii' the  men  unde:  his  charge  i)erfectlv,  and 
vet  of  i)utting  himself  on  free  and  friendly  terms 
with  them  all.  He  can  throw  a  ri'atd  Avith  such  pre- 
cision as  to  tak^  a  steer  l)y  the  h<':ul  or  bv either  foot 
he  wishes  in  annost  exerv  instance,  and  beasts  as 
well  as  men  soon  learn  lo  obey  his  wishes. 

Anyone  who  has  only  seen  the  great  plains  late  in 


,  if-'- 


AM)  oiiir.i:  nrNirx(r  advkmtkk 


331 


sunuiicror  in  the  aiitmim.  iil'tci'  the  uni'^s  liaslxM-onic 
8ere  iiiid  AelloAV  and  tlie  Inliau  '  aloiiu'  tli<'  stivaius 
lias  faded,  can  liave  lirrlc  idea  of  tlie  jti'istiiic  hcauty 


pl'PSi'll 


ted  b 


SI 


icll 


a   va 


11. 'V 


hat 


lli.'l 


owdt'i' 


river  ill  early  sprinu' lime,  when  the  farlh  is  ('ari)eied 
with  vei'dui'e.  tlie  rivei'  Itaidvs  lined  with  iiewly- 
clotlied  trees  and  shiaihs.  and  tlie  meadows bloomini;' 
with  ti(yW<'r.s.  tlie  heaiitv  and  brilliaiicv  of  which 
ran  not  he  excelled  anywhere.  The  wintei-  siio\vs 
have  melted;  the  sj^rinu"  rains  have  coiiu^  and  .uone. 
leaving-  the  eai'th  fiesh  and  moist;  the  climat«' 
is  mild  and  deliuhtful.  liuh'r  all  these  <'harminu 
conditions  who  would  not  enjoy  the  scene  unloldinu' 
before  our  eyes  as  we  mount  our  spiiited  lu'oncos 
and  ride  out  to  the  place  of  rendezvous  which  has 
been  appointed  near  the  mouth  of  the  liver,  and 
wliere  the  clans  are  alreadv  iiatherinu'.  'Pempoiarv 
canii)S  have  been  established  by  those  who  have 
arrived  in  advance  of  us.  around  which  gi-oups  of 
cowl)oys  ai'e  lounu'inu'.  A  band  of  horses  and  i)onies 
Avliich  tliev  have  libei-ated  is  contentedly  gra/inu'  on 
the  river  iiaiik,  juid  several  small  bands  of  cattle 
may  l)o  seen  in  various  directions,  most  of  them 
at  considerable  distances  away,  for  they  are  wild 
and  avoid  the  presence  of  hursian  beings.  A  cloud 
of  dust  is  faintly  visible  oii  top  of  the  di'ide 
nearly  three  miles  to  the  south,  and  on  examininu' 
it  carefully  with  oui'  glasses  we  find  it  is  being  I'aised 
by  a  jolly  ImikI  of  live  cow))oys,  who  are  riding  like 
mad,  each  leading  fourorlive  horses.  Lookingaway 
to  the  noi'tli  weseeaniess-wagon.  or  "  chuck  outfit." 
api>roaching,di'awn  ])y  four  horses,  and  fiom  theslow 
and  laboi'ed  uait  at  which  thev  Voilaloni:'  ihev  doubt- 


33-i 


<'KI'ISIN(;S    IX    TIIK    (ASCADKS 


less  l)riii<^'  abiUKlaiit  stoi'e  of  good  tilings.  Behind 
this,  two  j'iders  are  driving  tenliead  of  loose  horses. 
And  tliese  sinidl  detaclinients  continue  ro  come  in 
from  every  point  of  the  compass  all  the  forenoon, 
until,  when  all  the  ranches  in  this  roundnp  distiict 
have  fuinished  their  levies,  the  force  numbers  one 
hundred  and  thirtv-five  men  and  about  twelve  liun- 
di'ed  horses.  Each  rider  has  iiis  "  string"  of  horses, 
numbering  from  five  to  seven,  and  changes  two  or 
three  times  u  day,  riling  one  lio.'se  twenty  to  forty 
miles,  and  sixty  to  seventy-five  miles  a  day  is  ccm- 
sidered  a  fair  day's  work  for  a  ni:in.  The  reserve 
herd  is  placed  in  charge  of  a  herder  or  "wrangler," 
who  is  i-equired  to  keep  them  under  perfect  conWd, 
and  to  be  able  to  produce  such  of  them  as  are 
wanted  on  short  notice,  the  riutii  being  frequently 
used  in  taking  them  out  of  the  herd.  The  foreman 
has  anived  and  takes  charge  of  the  entire  outiit, 
placing  it  on  a  thoroughly  effective  and  working 
basis  for  the  nu)rrow. 

At  ;^:}()  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  men  are  called. 
Tliev  are  out  of  their  blaid\ets  and  dressed  in  less 
tinu'  than  it  takes  an  Eastern  man  to  rub  his  eves 
!ind   A'awn  ;    each   catclu^s   and   saddles   his  horse: 

« 

breakfast  is  hastily  eaten,  and  ai  the  iirst  dawn  of 
day,  they  ride  out  in  twos  or  fours  in  eveiy  direction. 
These  www  present  a  decidedly  pictul•e^que,  not  to 
say  brigandish,  ai)[)earance  as  they  dash  out  across 
the  prai.'ie;  their  red,  blue,  and  gray  flannel  shirts, 
canvas  i)auts,  leather  chaparcjos,  broad  scmibreros, 
colored  silk  handkei'chiefs  knotted  around  their 
necks;  well-lilled  cartridg(^-belts,  from  which  hang 
their   six-shooters ;  their   high-top    cowhide    boots 


AXD   OTIIKU   irrXTINci   ADV  KXTC  UKS. 


333 


and  large  Mexicnii  spurs,  making  up  a  toni  msewble 
that  a  hand  of  Texan  rangers  might  envy.     Their 
work,   their  fun,   tlieir  excitement  nou-  begin,    for 
small  hunches  of  catth^  are  sighted  in  every  direc- 
tn)n,  which  are  to  he  rounded  up  and  driven  aJon- 
and  there  is  no  time  to  lose.     As  thev  dash  hither 
and  thitlier  after  the  fleeing,   scurrvfno-  creatui-es 
the  proverhial  good  nature,  high  spirits,  and  enthu- 
siasm of  these  -knights  of  the  plains''  find  vent  in 
a  series  of   hoots,  yells,    jokes,    "ki-vis,"   hits  of 
song,  and    grotesque  slang    expressions,    manv   of 
which  are  strikingly  expressive  when  understood^,  hut 
which  would  he  utterly  unintelligihle  to  a  fresh  ten- 
derloot.     The  majority  of  these  Western  cattle  are 
almost  as  wild  as  the  native  huffaloes  whose  place 
they  have  nsurped,  having  never  h.'cn  sul)iected  to 
the  dominion  of  man.  and  rarelv,  in  fact.  Inn  <■  thev 
ever  come   face   to   face   with    him.      At   the   lirst 
approach  of  the  riders,   tiieretorv,   thev  ihrow  up 
their  heads  and  tails,  look  wild,  sniff  fhe  air,  and 
then  turn  and  run  like  a  heitl  of  anielop:^s.     But 
by  fast  riding    and  skillful  maiieuveiing  ihev  are 
soon  rounded  up  and  herded.     It  is  a  hit  of  the  tine 
spiH^  of  life  for  these  dare-devil  riders  to  find    a 
VICIOUS,  rehellious,  -alecky  "  youngcritter  who  ron- 
oludes  that  he  won't  he  rounded  up;  and  no  sooner  has 
the  helhgerent  shaken  his  hurlv  head,  pawed  the 
eiirth  a  few  times,  tuined  tail  to  his  pursuers,  brok   a 
thi'ough  the  skirmish  line  and  sailed  awav  across  the 
prairie,  than  three,  four,  or  p.M-haps  half  a  do/.en  cav- 
iises,  wlio  are  also  now  in  their  elements,  aiv  headed 
for  him.    Lariats  are  loosened  fioin  the  saddle  horn 
spurs  rattle  as  they  pierce  the  Hanks  ..f  the  alreadv 


•  >•>  1 


C  l;ri.--iN*.>    i.N     ill]-:    (  AX  ADKS 


i!  !' 


Avilliug  and  eagei'  steeds,  iiiid  theie  ensues  a  wild, 
lieadlong,  reckless  I'ace  that  can  liave  but  one  result. 
The  steer  ma  V  be  fleet  ol'l'oot.  and  mav  lead,  lhj'()U<;h 
a  haH'-inilc  dash,  l)ut  soonei;  or  later  is  lieachMJ  olt" 
and  tu)iie(l.  lie  may  make  a  I'resh  break  inaiiotlier 
<lirecti(Hi,  but  his  pursuers  are  down  on  him  asAain 
like  a  pack  ol'  liun<iiy  Avolves  on  a  stray  siie(-i).  And 
now.  as  the  riders  close  in  on  him,  thcv  belabor  him 
unmei'cii'ully  with  their  heavy  coils  of  rope,  oi'  \Nith 
I'.'iwhide  "(piii'ts"  cari'ied  for  this  purpose.  If  par- 
ticidarly  wild,  ol)stinate,  or  obsti'eperous,  he  still 
keeps  breakiui''  away,  and  refusiuiji;  to  come  into 
cani[).  A  rii(t(i  ulisteiis  in  the  sunlight,  whistles 
throuuh  the  ail'  and  falls  over  his  liead.  Another 
follows  and  i)uts  a,  foot  in  the  stocks.  Takinn'  two 
or  three  turns  of  the  hiriat  around  the  horn  of  the 
saddle,  the  men  ride  mi  o])posite  directions  till  the 
roiM's  <'ome  taut,  the  sti'cr  is  fairly  lifted  from  the 
earth  and  falls  with  a  dull  and  thudful  sound  that 
may  be  heard  a  hundi'«Ml  yards.  Then  anotlier  rope 
is  thrown  ovei'  his  head,  tiie  spurs  are  put  to  the 
faithful  ponies,  they  ai-e  transposed  for  the  time  into 
draft  horses,  and  tiie  luckless  victim  is  ignominiously 
"snaked''  towai'd  the  herd,  while  the  other  boys 
"banu'"  him  with  coils  of  rope  I'lom  behind.  A  few 
yards  of  this  mode  of  tnivel  is  usuallv  sufficient  to 
tame  the  wildest  lonu-horn  Texan  on  the  ran^e,  and 
a  U'w  vigorous  bellows  soon  announce  an  uncondi- 
tional surrender.  The  ropes  ai'e  then  i^aken  oil',  he 
is  letup,  audit  is  short  work  to  put  him  in  the  herd. 
The  valiant  riders  scour  the  country  IuIIkm'  and 
thither,  far  and  near,  ''nathering  beef"  from  east, 
west,  north,  and  south.     Every  hoof  found,  re»:ard- 


iU; 


A.VD    OTIIKU    inXTIXc;    ADVK.NTC  IJKS. 


33o 


less  of  tlio  bnnid  it  bears,  or  whetli.'i-  it  Ix-ars  .my,  is 
picked  u[)  by  thisliuiiiaii  cycloue  and  earned  aJonn-. 
Toward  iioon  the  lierds  ahvady  oatliered  ;,r.'  drivni 
into   the  braiidiii-  pens,    where  tliey  are    eonaled. 
Tlie  calves  are  siiatch<'d  out  and  the    '*jinij)ti()n  is 
socked  to  'em."  as  the  boysexpr.'ss  it.     So  with  any 
yearlings  or  older  stock  that  have  esraped  the  braiuf- 
ing--ironin  former  seasons.     One  or  more  irons  i'or 
eacli  owner  a.i-e   kept  hot.   and  when  a  I'oper  has 
'•  downed  "  an  animal  he  oi-  the  Toreman  calls  for  the 
iron  wanted,  and  setting  his  foot  upon  th<'  victim's 
iK'ck  places  th(3  red-liot  deA-ir-eon  its  i-ibs.  and  thi-ows 
his  weight  uixm  it,   leaving  a  deep,   indelibh',  and 
tune-enduring  tra(h'-ina)-k  which  even  li.^  who  i-uns 
may  read.     Its  ears,  dew  lap,  or  the  loose  skin  on  its 
jaw  are  then  slit  and  it  is  turned  loose  agai-i. 

When  a   band   is   l)ran(led  it  is  turned  out;  the 
party  avIio  brought  it  in  change  horses,   and  away 
they  go  for  another  ]-uii.       No  special  branders  are 
now  provided,  every  man  in  the  outtit,  the  cook  and 
u-rangler  excepted,  being reqiiiivd  to  "swallerdusr " 
Mild  ••  wivstle  calves-  in  the  pens.     Xear  the  middle 
ot  the  day  each  st^uad  comes  in  after  linishing  their 
catch,  make  a  run  on  the  niess-wagons  and  devour 
the    substantial   provender    with   which    they    are 
loaded,    with  appetites  lu.rn  only  of  the  hibo'r  and 
excitement  in  which  they  are  engaged. 
The  afternoon  is  usually  (h'voteirto  brandino-  the 

lastbuncheslmmghtin,  ami  to -cuttiiiuout,-' return- 
ing or  throwing  over  such  stock  as  does  not  })elon<. 
to  any  of  the  ranchmen  in  this  distri(;t.  Strays  are 
fre(piently  pi(.ked  up  whose  brands  show  them  to  be 
a  hundred  miles  or  more  I'rom  home.     When  a  mini- 


:}:}() 


CMUJISIXGS   IX  THE   CASCADKS 


'      iT 


■:     I 


l)('r  of  these  are  collected  they  are  cut  out  and  a 
.s(Hiud  of  men  drive  them  onto  tlieii'  proper  ranges. 
This  process  is  called  ''throwing  ov«'r." 

Tlie  cooks,  teamsters,  and  wranglers  nsnallymove 
cani])  up  the  river  every  moi'iiing  to  the  next  brand- 
ing-pen, or  to  some  other  spot  designated  by  the 
l'oren)an,  to  which  lounders  l)ring  th(4r  cattle  during 
the  day.  A  portion  of  the  stock  collected,  called  the 
"cavoy,"  is  carried  along  with  the  camp  all  tlit^  time 
and  hei'ded  by  the  '*  holdei's,"  but  lai'ge  numbj^s 
after  being  branded  are  bunched  and  again  thrown 
off  onto  the  range  each  day.  Thus  the  outht  moves 
slowly  up  the  stream,  making  a  clean  sweep  of  every- 
thing to  the  middle  of  the  divides  on  the  east  and 
west,  until  tlie  Wyoming  roundup  on  the  same 
stream  is  met  coining  down.  And  now,  having  com- 
l)leted  the  work  in  iiand,  the  outfit  breaks  up,  and 
the  men  return  to  the  respective  ranches  on  which 
they  are  employed  or  go  to  other  roundups  where 
their   services  are  needed. 

The  objeet  of  the  fall  ronndu])  is  to  gather 
in  and  cut  out  the  fat  steers  and  drive  them  to 
the  railroad  stations  for  shipment  to  Eastern 
markets.  The  work  being  almost  entirelv  on  adult 
aninuds  is  even  moi-e  laboiious  and  hazardous 
than  that  of  the  spring,  where  the  majority  of 
animals  actuallv  handled  are  calves.  Hard  ridinu' 
vigorous  "cutting,"  and  daring  dashes  into  head- 
strong, i)anic-stricken,  stampeding  herds  are  neces- 
sary here,  and  ro[)ing  and  di'agging  out  by  main 
strength  are  hourly  occurrences.  Branding-irons 
are  also  carried  alonu',  and  anv  calves  missed  on  the 

iT'^  ft 

spring  roundup,  or  droi)ped  after  it,  are  subjected  to 


AXD   OTIIKi:    iriXTi.\(;    A  I»V  KXTCKKS.  8;->.7 

tlie  fiery  ordeal,  just  ms  rlieir  brotliers  and  sisters 
u-ere  at  tlie  Mayday  party. 

«tn,y  eattle/either  calves  or  ad.ilts,    hearing,  „o 
hraiid  and  io.md  alone  or  herded  with  others  already 
branded,  but  whose  parenta-*,  can  not  be  deiinitefv 
determined,  are  calied   -Mavericks,"   and   in  s„n,; 
districts  are  sold  at  auction  and  th.  proceeds  given 
to  the  school    fund.      In   others,   they   l)econ,e   the 
property  ot  the  man  or  company  upon  whose  ran-e 
they  are  found.      This  priNileo-e,  h.nvever,   is   sed-^ 
ously  abiis(^d  by  dishonest    ranchmen    and    cattle 
thim^es,    ^rllo  iufest  every  Western   cattle-growing 
district.     Ihese   men   ride  out  over  the  ranges  at 
times  when  they  are  not  likely  to  be  obsei-ved,  carry- 
ing their  bi-anding-irons  along,  and  rope  and  bra/id 
every  animal  they  can  find  that  does  not  already 
bear  a  brand.     In  s<,me  ca.ses  these  are  allowed  to 
remain  where  found,    for  the  time  being,   but  are 
usually  driven  onto  the  range  claimed  by  tlie  pirate 
who  does  the  work.     In  other  instances,  these  men 
hrst    drive   the   unbi-anded    stock  onto    their  own 
ranges,  and  then,  under  cover  of  the  Maverick  law 
openly  chiim   and  brand  it  as   :heir  own.      Many 
arge  herds  have  been  accumulated  almost  wholly 
by  this  system  of  thievery,  and  there  are  wealthy 
(•attlenienin  the  West  to-day  who  nev.u-  bou-dit  oV 
honestly  owned  a  doz.'u  head  of  the  thousands  that 
bear  their  brand.     A  certain  cowl,oy,  when  asked  by 
an  Eastern  man  what  constitutes  a  .Alaverick,  replied- 
-Its  a  calf  that  you   lind  and  get  your  brand  on 
before  the  owner  hnds  it  and  gets  his  on." 

But  it  is  risky  business,  this  cattle  stealing,  and 
many  a  man  who  has  been  caught  at  it  has  been  left 


,1 


'11' 
"III 


H 


aiw 


riMISl\(iS    IX    'IIIK    (  ASCADKS 


on  tlio  pi'tiirics  as  food  for  tlic  coyoics,  or  lias  onia- 
Hientcd  llic  iK^jirest  cotton  wood  ircc  until  tlicniag- 
l)ies  and  bntchei*  birds  liavc  polislicd  liis  boiU's. 

I^raiidini;'  is  a  decidedly  cruel  proceed in.ii',  and 
would  doubtless  coni(^  uiuler  the  bane  of  Mr,  Ber<j,h"s 
displeasui'o  wer<^  he  hei'e  to  witness  it.  Yet  it  seems 
a  necessary  evil,  tlien^  beinu'  no  other  known  means 
ol"  markini;-  cattle  so  efl'ectuallv  and  indelibly. 

Parties  ol"  ladies  iVeipiently  ^o  out  I'lom  the  towns 
or  cities  to  see  the  roiindhp,  not  knowin,^'  oi'  think- 
inu'  of  the  paiid'ul  featui'cs  of  it.  'riicy  enjoy  the 
ride  aci'oss  the  i)rai]'ies  and  through  the  valleys.  The 
l)eautiful  scenery,  the  f>Totes(pie  "Bad  Lands,"  the 
red,  scoria-capi)ed  hills, the  beautiful  gi'een  meadows, 
and  the  fringes  of  green  trees  that  mark  the  mean- 
derings  of  the  streams,  all  delight  and  interest 
them;  they  enjoy  the  disi)lays  of  horsemanshi])  given 
bv  the    valorous  cowbovs  as  thev  wheel  and  cavort 

I  at. 

hither  and  thither  in  pursuit  of  scuri-ying  bands  of 
cattle;  they  enjoy  the  stamjx'ding  and  wild  llight, 
the  ''knotting''  and  "holding"  of  the  large  herds, 
all  so  skillfully^  and  cleverly  performed;  they  enjoy 
the  sight  of  the  thousand  Jind  more  loose  horses, 
grazing  and  scampering  over  the  plains;  they  enjoy 
the  fresh,  ]nire  air,  the  wholesome  noon  repast  in 
the  shade  of  the  great  cottonwood  trees,  and  many 
other  pleasant  phases  of  the  alTair,  But  when  the 
tire  is  lit  and  the  murderous  irons  inserted  in  it; 
when  the  captive  creatures  are  dragged  forth  lowing, 
murmuring,  and})ellowing;  when  the  red-hot  iron  is 
pressed  into  their  quivering,  smoking  sides  until  the 
air  is  laden  with  the  odor  of  burning  hair  and  roast- 
ing llesh,  and  the  poor  creature  writhes  and  strug- 


AND  (iiiiKK  iir,\ri.\(.  Ai>\  i:N'irui:s. 


:{:{i) 


gles  ill  its  a,U(juy,  llit-  roiiudiii)  is  loljbrd  of  iis 
ioniaii(;e,  and  the  ladies  arc  ivady  tu  start  iur  lioiiir 
at  once. 


t^'^Z 


\:^ 


